You guy's sorted out the' little' miss fire issue I had a while back[corrosion in the ignition connection block] :thumbsup
So get your 'grey matter' around this.. My bikes always been a good starter. Normally just a few turns. But recently,it cranks over several times,maybe two or three attempts before firing up. No difference on choke settings,but usually fires up With full choke. I put it down to the colder weather,or the airbox 'mod'?? But talking to another Triumph owner recently about this,and he said he has experienced it on one of his bikes. Then he asked if it fires just as you release the starter button? And thinking about it,it does? And it did today! A few attempts,then say on the third,as soon as I release the button,it fires!! Then its fine after. He seems to think that something is 'killing' the spark to the plugs,whilst the switch is pressed?? Or could it be a choke issue? My bike does seem to run rich? But wouldn't that 'aid' the initial cold start? Thanks.
I swapped over the clutch switch from my Daytona..no difference. Also wd40'd side stand switch connection.
Voltage drop when starter is drawing current?
What's the battery age and condition like?
AFAIK (but someone's gonna bollock me :icon_rolleyes:) when the starter is pressed everything else but the ignition circuit is over-ridden by the starter relay, so the only cause could be bad coils or connections (unlikely to be all 3 sticks though). More likely a low battery voltage, But seeing as it was a fairly recent change, I would check the airbox mod - could you silicone the cut you made?
Just as an example, mine @ a minimum of 12.5 volts:
-Warmer weather... 1 second with 3/4 choke,
-Cold weather... 2-3-seconds with full choke.
If I let the battery go much lower (by not using the solar panel) then it takes a bit longer... and more volts = quicker firing.
Quote from: London_Phil on January 02, 2017, 08:40:45 PM
Voltage drop when starter is drawing current?
What's the battery age and condition like?
Yep. I saw a problem like this on a Sherpa.
Quote from: London_Phil on January 02, 2017, 08:40:45 PM
Voltage drop when starter is drawing current?
What's the battery age and condition like?
:nod
Interesting you mentioned the battery,because when I fitted it to the bike earlier after charging it,the top of one of the terminals broke away. As a quick fix,I screwed a self tapper to hold the lead on. Bike seemed to turn over the same,but?? It's a shame,as its quite a new Varta :icon_rolleyes: So,I think thats where I need to start,a new battery!
Hi, I dont have a Tigger but a Sprint and am a lingerer in here coz you guys know so much and our bikes share many bits too. I am in a couple of Sprint forums and when I saw this problem I knew I had seen it recently before, I dont know if this link is any use ,may help, may not, but here we go anyways, you need to go to the end
http://thetriumphforum.co.uk/threads/starting-is-this-normal.7790/
Quote from: davetheworv on January 03, 2017, 04:02:34 AM
Hi, I dont have a Tigger but a Sprint and am a lingerer in here coz you guys know so much and our bikes share many bits too. I am in a couple of Sprint forums and when I saw this problem I knew I had seen it recently before, I dont know if this link is any use ,may help, may not, but here we go anyways, you need to go to the end
http://thetriumphforum.co.uk/threads/starting-is-this-normal.7790/
Thanks for that,interesting. Well,I need a new battery,so I'll start there. But,my bike only seems to fire up with the clutch 'in'..up to the bar. So it could be a faulty switch? I'm sure my Daytona only starts with the clutch 'out'? Can someone confirm the position of the clutch when starting? :icon_scratch:
stand up or down, clutch lever out, in neutral, the clutch only needs to be in if in gear... tis on mine anyway.
Quote from: JayDub on January 03, 2017, 01:08:16 PM
stand up or down, clutch lever out, in neutral, the clutch only needs to be in if in gear... tis on mine anyway.
:iagree
Bought a new Yuasa today. Had a good deal..£38.50. Re the clutch lever position,my problem could be sidestand switch then?? I did try starting it with clutch 'out' after swapping clutch lever switch [not with new battery]. What I did notice was,there seemed to be a drain when I pressed the starter,as the neutral light 'dimmed' quite a bit? So I'll try battery first,then I'll bypass sidestand. :icon_wink:
I fitted the new battery earlier,and it started quicker,but still turned over about 4-5 seconds before firing up. I sprayed the sidestand switch with wd40,and worked the stand up and down several times. It now starts With clutch lever out. So there's definitely an issue with the switch? I was going to bypass it by cutting the cable. But there are 3 wires. Anyone know how to connect? You don't really need the switch. Just make sure its in neutral,which I always do. Switches are just problem areas,waiting to go wrong!? I also removed the starter solenoid,cleaned all connections,and covered in dialectic grease.
Well,bike fired up within a few turns earlier,and with clutch lever out. Idled without choke within a few seconds. So,maybe the new battery,or some maintenance to side stand switch helped? But after my third stop,would only turn over with clutch lever in. So it's got to be stand switch?? I can live with it. Does run nice though :icon_wink:
Did you bypass the kick stand switch? If so, how did you do it?
Quote from: bemusedinsojo on January 07, 2017, 07:43:00 PM
Did you bypass the kick stand switch? If so, how did you do it?
No. If I knew how to reconnect,I would. But its something I can live with. My bike runs nice otherwise,
I met a guy earlier in Sennybridge who had a GS 12 BMW. 'Thats my baby over there' he said. Then he started telling me about the problems he'd had..it was a 2009 bike,he'd bought it with about 9k miles. He'd just done a European trip,but said it was due to go in for a full service,which he reckons will cost about £1k? taking in some repairs. It needed new shaft drive seal when he bought it,and he thinks the electronic suspension[ESA] might be faulty..£1500 to fix! I said thats more than what I paid for my bike!! So ,im quite happy with my 75k mile 'steamer',which has given me so much enjoyment in the 5yrs I've had it.
Quote from: threepot on January 08, 2017, 01:32:54 AM
No. If I knew how to reconnect,I would. But its something I can live with. My bike runs nice otherwise,
I met a guy earlier in Sennybridge who had a GS 12 BMW. 'Thats my baby over there' he said. Then he started telling me about the problems he'd had..it was a 2009 bike,he'd bought it with about 9k miles. He'd just done a European trip,but said it was due to go in for a full service,which he reckons will cost about £1k? taking in some repairs. It needed new shaft drive seal when he bought it,and he thinks the electronic suspension[ESA] might be faulty..£1500 to fix! I said thats more than what I paid for my bike!! So ,im quite happy with my 75k mile 'steamer',which has given me so much enjoyment in the 5yrs I've had it.
To be fair, in the paperwork that came with my Girly there is the 12K service invoice from Jack Lilley for £600, back in 2007, and that was just a service, no extras. Main dealer servicing is dear whoever you are with these days
The big difference is with a BMW you are pretty well tied to the dealer if you want your bike saleable and covered by the extended warranty, which you need unless your Rothchild. ESA, yeah thats silly, and Triumph have now got it on the new Explorers, a whole load of fun for future owners down the food chain.
and don't forget the character and individuality :icon_biggrin: