:BangHead
I wanted to change my shifter fork oring today and after I removed the bolt and clamp I was cleaning out a lot of gunk and in my absent minded haste I pushed the shifter fork in. I read pulling it out too far can be bad. But too far in? And how do I get it back to where I can change the oring? I tried a magnet but no go.
Also, the output shaft sleeve needs to be removed so I can change the seal but I can't get it off (insert naughty joke here). Any ideas?
Maybe clean the end of the shaft with some contact cleaner, and then use some JB Weld to glue a small flat headed machine screw to the end, with the head against the shaft end? You'll have to rig up something to hold it in place until it dries, but then you can use a short piece of hollow pipe, a fender washer, and a nut on the threads of that machine screw to slowly pull the shaft out.
As for scenario 2, I don't have a clue, unless perhaps a puller of some kind and a hot air gun to try and expand the sleeve without heating the shaft as well?
Good luck! I feel your pain, as cobbling on something that I had screwed up used to be my main pastime when I was younger!
I used a strong 'Neodymium' or 'rare earth magnet' on a similar problem on a different bike, You'll find one in an old hard drive.
Dont know about shifter fork, but regards the output shaft seal, when I did the seal on the Girly last year I also couldnt remove the sleeve but still replaced the seal ok, I just carefully screwed a self tapper into the old seal (Not too far), and pulled it out. That sleeve is tapered which I took to help installing the new seal, it pushed in fine with thumb pressure
Quote from: Timbox2 on April 24, 2017, 05:34:03 PM
Dont know about shifter fork, but regards the output shaft seal, when I did the seal on the Girly last year I also couldnt remove the sleeve but still replaced the seal ok, I just carefully screwed a self tapper into the old seal (Not too far), and pulled it out. That sleeve is tapered which I took to help installing the new seal, it pushed in fine with thumb pressure
Thanks for that suggestion, Timbox2. I screwed it in, the pulled it out by the screw head. A very simple, yet very effective solution. However, when I pull out the seal there was another behind it, which I wasn't expecting and so didn't order one. Should I remove the back one also? And same way, with a screw? (did I mention I loved this method?)
Does anyone know if the rod is solid? I'm thinking of drilling just enough to screw in an easy out or a self tapping screw to pull it out. The glue trick didn't work. I didn't use jb weld because in afraid of it dripping and glueing the entire rod to the case. Man that was dumb of me.
Quote from: bemusedinsojo on April 24, 2017, 11:31:19 PM
Thanks for that suggestion, Timbox2. I screwed it in, the pulled it out by the screw head. A very simple, yet very effective solution. However, when I pull out the seal there was another behind it, which I wasn't expecting and so didn't order one. Should I remove the back one also? And same way, with a screw? (did I mention I loved this method?)
STOP, STOP, DO NOT TOUCH THAT OTHER SEAL, ITS PART OF THE BEARING!!!!! Hence why you have to be careful not going to far with the screw :icon_wink:
Quote from: Timbox2 on April 25, 2017, 09:10:50 PM
STOP, STOP, DO NOT TOUCH THAT OTHER SEAL, ITS PART OF THE BEARING!!!!! Hence why you have to be careful not going to far with the screw :icon_wink:
Ok, no touchy. :^_^
Just a thought, if you have a MIG welding machine, it's possible to stick the wire to the end of the rod and then pull it out. Remember to disconnect bike's battery before welding. As I haven't tried this in similar situation, I don't take any responsibility of any damage. :wave
Possibly disconnect the ECU as well, if yo go down the welding route, which may be the best option anyway.
Spares are hard to come by at a good price :icon_wink: :icon_wink:
All attempts to pull my rod from casing didn't work so I'm going to pull the engine. Any hints? :icon_frown:
Can it not be accessed by just dropping sump?
Quote from: London_Phil on April 29, 2017, 05:47:43 PM
Can it not be accessed by just dropping sump?
I'm show my stupidity here but what is dropping sump?
The plate covering the bottom of the engine, into which the oil filter fits.
"Dropping" is slang for taking off in a professional and controlled manner......
It may be you can remove it and reach the shaft from there, without "dropping" the engine.
It's removable, but it may be 90% of removing the engine to access it, so I'm honestly not sure its a great gain.
I've never done it on a Steamer, but I suspect there are some opinions out there.
You've got the pdf of the workshop manual yes?
Sorry Phil I searched the manual and realized what it was (we call it something different). The I don't know if I can access the shifter fork from below. Does anyone know if I can access the shift fork from underneath?
Well, luck was shining down on me yesterday. After a little migging to make a small shelf, I got the little bastard out and replaced the oring. It only took three days and much frustration. The thought of pulling the sump and or motor gave me resolve to try some more and out it came. Now to finish and then put the tire on. Thanks for the ideas guys.
Nice one Lynn. Glad your back up and running.
No more leaks. Using Honda parts. And now it runs better (or wishful thinking).
Quote from: bemusedinsojo on May 11, 2017, 08:24:16 PM
No more leaks. Using Honda parts. And now it runs better (or wishful thinking).
by honda parts are you referring to the seals? if so could you possibly share the honda equivilant part numbers? thanks!
Yes the seals. Try this site which is where i found the part numbers. Be careful with the shift rod-you can push it in or pull it out too far.
http://www.triumphrat.net/t3-sport-touring-forum/131953-side-cover-area-oil-leak-synopsis.html#/topics/131953
Also, I made a paper gasket for the side cover because I didn't think to order one. Are you leaking too?
Quote from: bemusedinsojo on May 11, 2017, 11:15:50 PM
Yes the seals. Try this site which is where i found the part numbers. Be careful with the shift rod-you can push it in or pull it out too far.
http://www.triumphrat.net/t3-sport-touring-forum/131953-side-cover-area-oil-leak-synopsis.html#/topics/131953
Also, I made a paper gasket for the side cover because I didn't think to order one. Are you leaking too?
Yes I am, nothing serious of course at the bottom right of the sprocket cover which makes it way down and forms a small and ever so sexy drop on the garage floor. So its one of the seals in there, and since i have programmed a chain and sprocket change next month, i want to collect the various seals, gaskets etc etc to take to my mechanic and have him put them in so as to be done with everything in one go so to speak...
Ok. Read further down in the blog and you will find the Honda numbers. My sexy drops, which were a not so sexy deluge, are gone. Thank god because my cement floor was starting to look like asphalt.
Quote from: bemusedinsojo on May 12, 2017, 01:04:44 AM
Ok. Read further down in the blog and you will find the Honda numbers. My sexy drops, which were a not so sexy deluge, are gone. Thank god because my cement floor was starting to look like asphalt.
found them thanks!. looking for a local supplier as we speak..
:thumbsup
Quote from: Sidk on May 12, 2017, 01:16:35 AM
found them thanks!. looking for a local supplier as we speak..
:thumbsup
The biggest one, the one that goes behind the front sprocket, looks different than stock but still works. The rest look the same as stock. Also, don't forget the side cover gasket. Ok I'm done beating a dead horse.
I got mine from EBay if that helps.
Oh yeah,
Tell your mechanic to be careful with the shift rod. Ask me how I know.