First, thanks to Mustang for providing the T50 size for the head bolts! I was able to catch the Mac Tool truck in time and carry on. Man, those head bolts required a big ass breaker bar - so glad when I had my hernia repaired in January that I had them use cast iron mesh :icon_mrgreen:
So, now I'm at the liners, and those puppies are rusted in place just as tight as a crab's ass (and that's water tight). I leveled the engine, sprayed in enough PB Blaster to form a pool around the base of all 3 liners, and have been tunking around the perimeter of each one using the plastic end of a screwdriver and a dead blow hammer for the past hour (okay, so I have taken a few breaks to go and chuckle at the factory manual's "gently remove only by hand"). So far, nothing is budging. They'll sit in the penetrating fluid all night and I'll have another go tomorrow, but thought I'd ask those of you who have removed your liners if this is typical?
By the way, I also bought a Mac stud remover for the 3 manifold studs that were stuck in place, and they were still reluctant to come out. I don't think Vise Grips would have been enough, and I am glad I spent the money for this tool, as I truly think I avoided a broken stud and a major headache!
Hope to get the rest of the engine apart tomorrow and get my parts list finished. The engine is soooo much easier to work on sitting nice and high on the bench!
I know there is a newer exhaust stud from Triumph with a small shoulder on it to stop the stud being over screwed into the head which has bee an issue previously. Don't know if it's a new part number but worth asking in case they want to send the old style that they may still have in stock.
Thanks! I will ask when I do my order.
They are a bit of a pain to get out,and there was absolutely no corrosion on the ones in my Super3. Just patience,and release oil!? Ideally,something that's a 'snug' fit in the bore,that can be rocked back and forth,and have upward pressure the same time would assist? Apparently there is a tool available? I used two rubber handled hammers as levers. Also some gentle 'tapping' around the top might just help to break the seal?
I also had a stud that just wouldn't budge! I ground two 'flats' on it so the vice grip couldn't spin on it. Worked a treat.
Thanks!
I'm getting a 3" expandable rubber drain plug tonight and rigging it up with a long bolt and some fender washers to try and pull the liners. I tap tap tapped for an hour last night, lowering the pistons one at a time to give them as much potential movement as possible, but no joy. Will get back at it tonight, having soaked the bases in a pool of PB Blaster in the water jacket for 24 hours.
I think I used two wood chisels that were thin enough to get into the gap between the liners and the outer casing?
Not ideal tools,but you've got to use whats available I suppose? A friend helped me,and the rocking motion from either side worked. Use something to protect the alloy casing. Wish I could be there to assist you :icon_cry:
Question..I can understand the theory with the 'wet' liner system,coolant in direct contact with the cylinder,but is it a question of 'overkill'? Lot's of other engine types rack up big milages,including air cooled ie,early BMW's,FJ Yams.
It's the modular part of the equation TP, no need to change the main casting just the liner for bore change
I searched the net and found mention of using a 3" plug to remove cylinder liners, so off to Lowes I go - $12 later and a few pieces of scrap 2 x 4, and this major headache becomes easy peasy!
I used a 3" Oatey plug, replacing the short carriage bolt with a 5", and adding a couple of flat washers and two nuts. I went with standard grade, but by the last liner, the threads were getting buggered up, so go with a better grade of bolt and nut to prevent any headaches. The actual steps are simple:
1- Wipe the upper insides of the liners with a solvent to remove oil.
2- Insert plug flush and tighten up.
3- Lay two short 2x4's across the block, and then put the longer 2x4 with the hole over the top of the carriage bolt and drop two flat washers and a nut on.
4- Tighten the nut and watch those liners magically lift!
5- When the bolt bottoms out on the 2x4, loosen the nut, add one more short 2x4 to each side, and repeat steps 3 and 4.
6- All done!
The magic tool
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Tiger-Engine-Rebuild/i-5pv4JcD/0/f4b49f84/X3/IMG_2313-X3.jpg)
Tool seated in place
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Tiger-Engine-Rebuild/i-92Q4dmT/0/7ef91945/X3/IMG_2314-X3.jpg)
Tool in use, first stage
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Tiger-Engine-Rebuild/i-Bs6QDwL/0/dc14fd3a/X3/IMG_2310-X3.jpg)
Liner after first stage
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Tiger-Engine-Rebuild/i-9hLBS8z/0/3fd30e28/X3/IMG_2311-X3.jpg)
Liner out and on the bench
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Tiger-Engine-Rebuild/i-6GrKj4x/0/c757347f/X3/IMG_2312-X3.jpg)
Well done that man :><
Think Triumphs proper workshop tool is pretty much the same thing
Thanks. Not my idea, but it worked great!
Now having a time getting the piston pins out. Nothing seems to slide or move easily after 22 years and 43000 miles I guess☹️
Quote from: ssevy on July 08, 2017, 09:50:36 PM
............................ Nothing seems to slide or move easily after 22 years and 43000 miles I guess☹️
Thats me totally fooked then :icon_lol:
Pob lwc with that👍
Devised a tool for the wrist pin removal. I posted it separately with photos in case anyone is reading this and has the same issue.