Hello all,
Why we are at it, I have some more questions about getting the Tiger as comfortable and reliable as possible. When the bike comes back from the big maintenance job I would like to visit some WATOC events. Of course, everything is doable but a little comfort never hurts. :rrr
It also helps if the parts are reliable.
What are your suggestions for getting the Tigers as comfortable and reliable as possible?
I will keep this post updated with all the suggestions. Hopefully others will find this useful as well.
Ideas I would like to explore; higher windscreen, different seat, heated grips, navigation, cases, raised handlebars, shocks (front and back), DAR (or is that fixed with '96 versions?)
Let's hear your ideas and suggestions to create more comfort and reliability on the tiger
Key thing is getting the windscreen right, but you will be lucky to find aftermarket kit. Can be a noisy bike without a screen of some sort.
Then a comfy seat. At this point the best bet is to go and get it reshaped by a local upholstery company.
Lower pegs make a difference for many and there are several options available.
Oxford heated grips are probably your go to. Mine have stopped working recently after some 25 years of use.
The handlebars is a tricky one, search the forum for info. From memory many taller ones will hit the fairing so check carefully.
Cases etc specific for the bike come up occasionally on ebay, you will probably need to be patient.
Is there some "bracketry" to lower your pegs available? :icon_study:
I'd rather have a look at some before I attempt to fabricate some. :icon_smile:
One of the Original members of the Forum, "Mustang", who sadly passed away a few years ago, did fabricate some lowered ones, as there was little or no alternatives.
Put a request in Wanted section, in case anyone has a spare set, but more likely you need to fabricate some.
Thanks :occasion14
This is a link to another site, where he shows them
https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/triumph-tiger-off-road-foot-pegs.660374/
It may help if you decide to fabricate your own.
Cool just manufactured upside down or reversed.
I have been absent for some time but it would be great if someone could take over the manufacturing of the pegs or draw up some sketches with measurements so we can help the local metalworker stay in business :)
About the handlebar, Wolfgang from Tigerparts.de, recommends the Magura AX-2. This bar should come higher and more toward the rider for a more comfortable ride.
The Hepco & Becker system is the only luggage system available for the steamer and the kit comes in two parts. One for the side and one for the top. To me, it is a bit unclear what the benefit of the top kit is over the default top rack. Could anyone elaborate?
For inspiration, this is how the bike looks now. Would be great to get it more comfortable so that I can enjoy it for the years to come.
Next Wednesday, it should receive a new chain and sprockets....if we can get the nut off. Last time we tried, we just torqued the equipment :BangHead
D61AE9CC-B4CE-4ECC-BF8B-C34944044E75.jpeg
Found some dimensions on a site for the Magura AX2 bars
$192 Au in Australia
Looks really nice.
If you use a socket and long bar directly, a lot of force is lost due to the angles involved and the risk of the socket slipping off is greater.
Use a short extension supported at the same centrre height as the output sprocket shaft, this allows a straighter push on the torque bar without any angluar force component on the socket.
Don't be afraid to heat the sprocket nut, I'm sure you'll be replacing the shaft seal at the same time after going to all that effort. Ox/Ac is best as you can get enough heat onto a precise area quickly, MAP gas cans aren't as hot, fast enough or precise, give the socket a couple of big whacks while the sprocket & nut are hot. A word of caution when removing the old seal, go easy to prevent damaging the integral seal on the bearing behind the shaft seal.
Just about have the same gear on my battle scarred black tiger.
A centre stand still eludes me, mainly the price.
Any idea what back rack is on mine? I thought it was original but it looks like it came with a plastic one with Triumph stamped in it. No idea what is mounted here.
And good call about the seal. I wasn't sure I had everything but I just checked and it looks like everything is ready to go.
This is what I have lined up now:
Chain and sprocket replacement.jpg
- 48 and 18 teeth sprockets
- Two chain links (in case I mess up one)
- Casket
- T1180181 - Washer Sprocket
- T3600008 - Oil Seal
- Oil Filter
- Chain breaker
- DID 530 chain. Should be 113 links
- Big socket
Hi, the rack on the '96 as pictured is actually an early - '93~'94? - rack, and much stronger than the later plastic ones.
Incidentally, it's a good idea to install longer mount bolts, and fit Nyloc locknuts - for some reason, they like to undo themselves.... damhik!
On the question of the front sprocket - on my second fitment (still bloody tight!), I used a pneumatic rattle-gun, after chocking the back wheel - came off easy! Make sure you have an exact size socket, I used a six-point.
It's worth changing the shaft seals for the clutch push rod and the gear change shaft, wrap some lecky tape around the gearchange shaft splines when refitting the sprocket cover to prevent damaging the new seal. There is another O ring on the selector cross shaft but unless you see signs of leakage from there it's best left alone as there is a risk of bits coming loose inside the box trying to change it in situ.
Yup :thumbsup the earlier steel ones are better, they will handle more weight, they're easier to clamp on adaptor plates for top boxes etc. and they can be repaired more easily. There were two versions, one had a monkey face plate with a captive nut on the front legs to allow screwing side racks onto, the more common one was just a single hole plate. Both will only sensibly fit the Steamer.
The "plastic" ones are actually a five part cast alloy item, the top plate was also used for the T300's with different legs. There are hex screws under the plastic plugs.
Before you ask, the crash bars are Hepco Becker items, Triumph never made crash bars for the Steamer.
Gday Aeschere,
Looks like you are giving the darling a nice freshen-up. I agree with Bill about the front sprocket. An air compressor with an impact wrench (rattle gun here) and socket works perfectly. Quick and easy.
Good luck with it all.
Quote from: Beernard on March 22, 2023, 08:18:02 AMGday Aeschere,
Looks like you are giving the darling a nice freshen-up. I agree with Bill about the front sprocket. An air compressor with an impact wrench (rattle gun here) and socket works perfectly. Quick and easy.
Good luck with it all.
I agree, the "rattle gun" would be my choice
Thanks for that information!
About the seals, you mean nr 24 in Clutch (https://www.worldoftriumph.com/collections/100058880-0-2?type=tiger-885-carbs-upto-vin-71698) and nr 19 in Engine covers (https://www.worldoftriumph.com/collections/100058889-0-2?type=tiger-885-carbs-upto-vin-71698)?
About the bolt. We have used a wrench without an "arm" to try and loosen it. So, a direct attachment to the socket and the wrench. We even lengthed the arm for a better leaver, but all we managed was to torque the wrench itself.
We tried heating it as well and used an electrical impact driver. All without success.
The next attempt will involve a compressor powered impact driver and perhaps a bit more heat and brute hammering :cp
Well, it took a bit longer then expected due to busy schedules, but the Tiger has a new chain and sprockets.
Whoever designed this bike, should get fired ;) There are so many things that just doesn't make sense but that is for another time.
It turned out not to be to much of a problem. The guy I was with had a good air compression rattle gun that did the job in under 20 seconds. After that, it was just business as usual. The front sprocket required some convincing to get on the shaft, the chain breaker broke, screws were misplaced and the crash bars almost forced a bike crash trying to push them back into place.
While we were at it, we also replaced the seal behing the front sprocket and the clutch shaft seal.
One thing that I did notice is that the chain slider almost needs replacing. The one that is on there is hardly 1000km old which seems to be a bit fast. How long do you do with your sliders? Are there any alternatives that I can use instead of the original rubber?
The bike is finally in great working order. All that remains to be done now is cosmetically and/or non-essential. I have been riding her several times a week and this Sunday we have the season opening of the Triumph club. This promises to be a good year :)
If you're reffering to the small under chain guide bolted to the chassis rather than the one on the swing arm, then yes they can be short lived if the chain is set a bit too slack. Many of us have tried making blocks that bolt onto the original steel plate, many have been quite succesful, nylon / PTFE shaped block seems to work. Search and you'll find the info in this section.
Perfect timing :XXsunsmile
Aeschere,
I've just made my third "Chain Rubbing Block" from UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene), known by various names eg 'Delrin'.
I effectively duplicated the original, by cutting a channel in the centre of a duplicate-size block.
Found out that even an NOS block (was only able to find two in existence in the World!) has failed in the packaging, so no luck there.
There's another thread on this matter.
Good to see progress!
Bill
Quote from: Madruss on February 10, 2023, 04:16:22 AMIs there some "bracketry" to lower your pegs available? :icon_study:
I'd rather have a look at some before I attempt to fabricate some. :icon_smile:
The original "Mustang" pegs look like this. I was lucky enough to get him to fab up a pair for my '91 R 1000 GS also ...
A larger footpeg is great but doesn't appear to be any lower.
Removing the rubber "top blocks" which I've done, (same bolt on style as the Yamaha 660 Te'ne're') achieved the same effect.
The next step in modification for a tall, rider I should say, long legged rider, is to increase the seat height, hence straightening ones knees marginally!
By filling in the "Saddle shaped cutout" obviously designed for those "vertically challenged" who would have a terrible time manhandling these tall top-heavy beasts, would be the next step.
Now with the Calypso parts bike in the shed & having a spare seat, I'll have to locate an upholsterer to remodel it.
You can steal 12mm by drilling a higher mounting hole. I posted here. Years have gone by, didn't break. Would like another 20mm, but hasn't happened yet!
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 20, 2023, 04:02:13 PMLooks really nice.
If you use a socket and long bar directly, a lot of force is lost due to the angles involved and the risk of the socket slipping off is greater.
Use a short extension supported at the same centrre height as the output sprocket shaft, this allows a straighter push on the torque bar without any angluar force component on the socket.
Don't be afraid to heat the sprocket nut, I'm sure you'll be replacing the shaft seal at the same time after going to all that effort. Ox/Ac is best as you can get enough heat onto a precise area quickly, MAP gas cans aren't as hot, fast enough or precise, give the socket a couple of big whacks while the sprocket & nut are hot. A word of caution when removing the old seal, go easy to prevent damaging the integral seal on the bearing behind the shaft seal.
Another more complicated mod that eases all maintenance there-after is an idea from the late MUSTANG (blessed be his name). I cut the sprocket cover off the oil reservoir portion. The clutch slave stays with the top for a quick access to the gear without all the other rigamarole you went through. Shown here with MUSTANG lowered pegs. I can give more info if interested.
Oh, that sure looks interesting, not only or me, but for other owners as well.
How is the oil kept into the engine?
Quote from: Aeschere on May 07, 2023, 07:56:09 AMOh, that sure looks interesting, not only or me, but for other owners as well.
How is the oil kept into the engine?
A magic moment of inspiration on the part of Mustang, cutting the reservoir cover from the spoke cover & clutch cover/mount. There was some fabricating & welding involved to make up a new filler spout & dipstick, but I love a fun challenge. A quick photo here & more when I get back home in a few days. Will have to dig around for more.
I did 613km (about 381 miles) this weekend. First time ever that I did a multi-day trip with a bike. The Tiger performed great and never let me down. No leaks, stutters or other hic-ups.
Learned a ton as well. The saddle is crap after about 200km, riding with jeans underneath motorcycle pants is a stupid idea, gloves that aren't to small are a benefit and having some kind of luggage option can help.
Will definitely do another trip soon. We have a Triumph event in July which I will certainly attend. If any of you is in the Netherlands, or feels like making a trip, perhaps we can meet up at Trumpet 2023.
Oh, one thing that did require some attention were loose handlebar mounting bolts. Apparently, the bottom bolts of the clamp were loose. Never noticed it before but since I have the grace of a hippo, getting on the bike with a bag strapped to the back, I lent on the bars more than usual and found myself snugging the tank. Fortunately, the bar was tight enough to allow proper steering without any danger but not something I was enjoying very much.
Oh, and why, why!?, do people think it is a good idea to pull up at a traffic light and then slam the brakes to a full stop because they need to switch lanes? Good to know my brakes work, and luckily the brakes of the car behind me worked as well. That was the one time that the handlebar came down and I had to continue riding like a failed café racer.
So, in short, I did a trip, was great, learned a ton and will do again.
Well done :><
They are a good tool for touring once you get things sorted for comfort and practicality :thumbsup
July :bad
Oops! 16-18 June :)
Will you be there?
More information (still wip) https://triumphownersclub.nl/event/trumpet-treffen-2023-bij-hieslum-frl/
Tempting but I don't think I could do it this year, enjoy :*
Here's a site for lowered pegs
https://www.motobau.de/product_info.php?products_id=61
Quote from: fishnbiker on May 06, 2023, 07:21:06 AMAnother more complicated mod that eases all maintenance there-after is an idea from the late MUSTANG (blessed be his name). I cut the sprocket cover off the oil reservoir portion. The clutch slave stays with the top for a quick access to the gear without all the other rigamarole you went through. Shown here with MUSTANG lowered pegs. I can give more info if interested.
Apologies on taking so long to explain the method. A lot of metal fabricating went into this, the planning was the most fun.
My plan here was to make chain & sprocket maintenance easier. By cutting the sprocket cover & clutch slave off the oil reservoir, it now comes off in a couple of minutes. I can now change a front sprocket completely in under 15 minutes with no oil mess. I can also check on the slave cylinder then.
I decided on a cut location close to the flat on the oil pot.
Making the cut as narrow as possible (read: Dremel blade thin) helps for resealing the joint with a strip of sticky tape backed 3mm weatherstrip. I change the tape every time the cover comes off, easier to clean the area. This is a rough guide you can play with.
These also show the approximate location of the new dipstick.
More to come.
This photo shows the fun part; making a new pour spout. Using a short length of 25mm pipe which was threaded at the top end to fit an industrial equipment oil plug. The hex-top alignment is marked to make the dipstick sit straight when tight, then welded into a cut-out I made into the reservoir. The dipstick was added into the plug after careful length measuring to match the original depth. A blade was installed on the top of the dipstick into a trench I made for brazing it in.
The top part of the filler tube was removed & the indent filled with auto body filler. No need to disconnect any clutch parts. The gap behind the filler spout is a bit wider than needed, Now filled with weatherstrip, mainly to keep sprocket goo from getting on my boot.
Somewhere in my mind I think there are more photos I need to search for. Maybe more to come.
Another method (not my photo) of managing the oil level; inserting a window.
It has been a while since I started this thread. Thanks for the suggestions.
One thing I am looking for is replacing my lights with LED's. I have found this thread: Led's bulbs for steamers (https://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13372.0.html) but the eBay links are no longer working and the Superbrightleds website doesn't have all the led's anymore and shipping is very expensive.
Do you have any recommendations on where to get led lights in Europe, and which ones to get?
Quote from: Aeschere on March 25, 2024, 06:51:38 PMIt has been a while since I started this thread. Thanks for the suggestions.
One thing I am looking for is replacing my lights with LED's. I have found this thread: Led's bulbs for steamers (https://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13372.0.html) but the eBay links are no longer working and the Superbrightleds website doesn't have all the led's anymore and shipping is very expensive.
Do you have any recommendations on where to get led lights in Europe, and which ones to get?
Buy T5, T10, Brake lights, Turn signals etc. I'm sure any Auto store may have them as well. Someone just posted on the Facebook Steamer page about replacements, "So I'll check but I think I used:
7 x T5 (warning lights plus speedo)
5 x T10 (speedo 1, tacho 2, temp 1, aftermarket clock 1)."
https://www.amazon.nl/s?k=t10+led+12v&crid=25AKWHGB2Y6IJ&sprefix=T10+led%2Caps%2C342&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_10_7