Ok - so my rear shock is done, kaput, dead, deceased,....etc. Rather than the $1,000 quoted by Triumph - what am I looking at to do this myself.
framework - i've replaced auto suspensions, etc, but I find it's just time consuming.
Anything I really need to look out for?
thanks
You can a have a very good one from those guy. I just got mine today and will install it tomorrow. Far less than a thousand dollard. They use their standard stadium model (Road Emulsion Type 740 TR) and fit my stock preload and the bottom damping section to it. Also they calculated my spring level and base on they number, they increase my spring rate. I'll keep you updated but could not be worst. Once on the bike I was between 100 and 110mm of used travel out of 200mm. It should be around 60mm.... so....
here is their link, Luc or Thierry they were very kind to me and gave me a lot of time to explain what was my problem, how I can solve it and some base theory of suspensions. nice guys.
http://www.stadiumsuspension.com/ (http://www.stadiumsuspension.com/)
to do it is not really a big job, specialy if you have a centerstand. The problem is on the space for the hand specialy for the top bold. I removed the battery and battery housing,. Then I unscrewed the top bolt than the bottom one. The lower one need a few hammer insistance trought a soft rod but not a major problem. Just dont lost some rollers that are free in the lower holes.
sorry for my english
Quote from: "jp4evr"Ok - so my rear shock is done, kaput, dead, deceased,....etc. Rather than the $1,000 quoted by Triumph - what am I looking at to do this myself.
framework - i've replaced auto suspensions, etc, but I find it's just time consuming.
The stock unit is not rebuildable. The unit is easy to get at but requires a T55 torx. Needle brearings on the bottom might fall out when the sleeve is pushed out. Be patient with the top bolt as it's soft metal and strips easily.
I just got a replacement shock from Works. Custom made body and spring rate, uses stock preload adjuster and a ring setup on the bottom end. You'll want Race Tech emulators up front after you upgrade the rear...
Hagon wouldn't make one for my weight requirements - but they do have one if you're happy with the stock spring rate. Ohlins makes one too - more expensive than the Triumph jewelry.
I'll get a report together after it stops raining here and I can really ride it.
Ok - so I got up in there and couldn't get a grip on the opposite nut at the top after the T55 bolt was engaged.
I also found I didn't really have enough room to move the ratchet. what a PITA.
Am I missing something?
Quote from: "jp4evr"Ok - so I got up in there and couldn't get a grip on the opposite nut at the top after the T55 bolt was engaged.
I also found I didn't really have enough room to move the ratchet. what a PITA.
Am I missing something?
Patience. Moving the brake reservoir might help you. If you are really desperate you can remove the battery box and tank - although I don't think it makes much real difference. It's a PITA no matter how you slice it.
In related news my Works upgrade is much improved over the stock sponge. A nicely crafted unit that meets my need for stiff road suspension.
Bruin
remove the battery and battery housing. I did it like that, my 3/8 rachet had plenty of space.
wwhops this category is not setup as private, That is why there is so much spam. I forgot to log in and answered the previous message. Sorry guys, I an not english, What does it mean: PITA
Quote from: "klingklang"Sorry guys, I an not english, What does it mean: PITA
Pain
In
The
Ass
Bruin
:? I should have seen it !!!! :D
yeah - did all that, but couldn't get something on the other side of torx bolt - the nut side to hold that in place. seems someone has relocated my other ratchets
I took an opened 17mm key to hold it. I used it a bit sideways but it was enought hold it.