Any idea what would make the idle on my `99 Girly all of a sudden drop from the usual 1000 rpm to around 500 (or less)? I bought this bike a couple months back. It's now got 45K miles on it. Runs great. I recently pulled the K&N filter, cleaned & re-oiled it. I've riden at least 300 miles since I did that. Just noticed the idle steadily dropping while riding home from work today. Is there a vent hose or something that I had to reconnect to the tank that might have an effect on the idle (leaking or cracked)? How about the seal around the filter housing, where the filter slides in. I noticed the previous owner had some kind of sealant around the flange. I didn't put anything on the crack. I wouldn't think a little air slipping in around the filter housing would matter.
Thanks,
RickV
In cars, often when a user re-oils a K&N, the excess oil travels downstream and covers the Mass Air Sensor. This causes the computer to get erroneous signals.
I just read in my Haynes shop manual that there is an intake air pressure sensor that has an effect on the ECM as it measures barametric pressure within the airbox and combines that info with that of other sensors to adjust fuel delivery. I guess I need to pull the tank & put a little sealant around the housing where the filter slides in.
I started using mid-grade gas in the last two tanks (89 octane). The previous owner always used high octane. I doubt if that would affect idle speed.
RickV
Still haven't gotten the idle back up. The only thing I haven't tried is synchronizing the throddle bodies. Need to get some gauges to do that. If that doesn't do it, I'll have to take it in to a dealer. Any other ideas?
Quote from: "RickV"Still haven't gotten the idle back up. The only thing I haven't tried is synchronizing the throddle bodies. Need to get some gauges to do that. If that doesn't do it, I'll have to take it in to a dealer. Any other ideas?
Have you acquired a vacuum leak? It's easy to disturb the factory tubing pulling the tank and airbox off. Perhaps your tubes are brittle and cracked?
$ .02
I'd have thought that would increase the idle speed as the IACV (stepper valve) lets in more air when the idle speed drops. It could be a problem with the IACV itself - these can stick on some vehicles but I'm not aware of it happening on the Tiger.
Tuneboy has an IACV test function.......
This did develop after I pulled the tank, so it could be related to a vaccum leak. I did notice the crankcase vent line was off the airbox. I don't think that happened when I pulled the tank, but was probably like that when I bought the bike. BTW. This bike has 45K miles on it & I doubt any of these lines have ever been changed.
After 25k miles my 02 developed a drop in idle speed. After a bit of searching about, discovered I needed to adjust the throttle cable at the throttle itself. A little fiddling and all is good.
Quote from: "iansoady"I'd have thought that would increase the idle speed as the IACV (stepper valve) lets in more air when the idle speed drops. It could be a problem with the IACV itself - these can stick on some vehicles but I'm not aware of it happening on the Tiger.
Tuneboy has an IACV test function.......
Perhaps. When I was installing my cruise a vacuum leak kept my bike from running at idle.
Quote from: "swamper650"After 25k miles my 02 developed a drop in idle speed. After a bit of searching about, discovered I needed to adjust the throttle cable at the throttle itself. A little fiddling and all is good.
But the throttle cable shouldn't be tight on idle - you should always have a little bit (2mm or so) of slack. So I can't see how this would work.
Nope. Throddle cable won't do it. Suppose to be slight slack in the cable when completely released.
Did not say I took the slack out of the cable...as posted I adjusted the cable.........Idleing great now no further issues..................
I've been doing a bit of reading on this, but it's hard to narrow it down on what you've said so far - so here are a few questions:
Girlies have fuel injection ergo the idle speed is not manually adjustable (stating the **** obvious):
Is the drop really gradual, or do you just notice it when you stop somewhere on your journey?
If it is gradual, what distance are we talking about before it starts to drop and how long after starting from cold?
Does your Girly have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust? (Or does it have a catalytic converter? the two go hand in hand)...
I'm trying to work through all the sensors that change the mixture as conditions change, but one thing you could check - have you disturbed the pipes from the idle air valve to the cylinder bodies? If you have that shouldn't cause a gradual change, it would be the same all the time, but you never know...
In fact, if it's just a small leak, the sensors could be coping with it when the engine is cold but can't when it warms up. Only my two penn'th :wink:
I've been doing a bit of reading on this, but it's hard to narrow it down on what you've said so far - so here are a few questions:
Girlies have fuel injection ergo the idle speed is not manually adjustable (stating the **** obvious): correct
Is the drop really gradual, or do you just notice it when you stop somewhere on your journey? I did two things before the ride that I notice the "sudden" drop. I pulled the air filter (K&N) cleaned & oiled it. It wasn't very dirty, but did show signs of wear. The previous owner always ran premium gas. I tried a tank of midgrade, but have since gone back to premium. I don't think it really matters that much. I put a little RXP in the tank to clean the injectors. Didn't help, didn't hurt.
If it is gradual, what distance are we talking about before it starts to drop and how long after starting from cold? When started cold, it idles around 2K for about 20 seconds, then drops to 1200-1500 for another 30 seconds or so. It then gradually drops to 800-900 rpm until it starts to warm up. Once fully up to normal operating temperature, it drops to about 500 rpm.
Does your Girly have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust? (Or does it have a catalytic converter? the two go hand in hand)... I don't think so. I will have to check the Haynes manual.
I'm trying to work through all the sensors that change the mixture as conditions change, but one thing you could check - have you disturbed the pipes from the idle air valve to the cylinder bodies? NO. If you have that shouldn't cause a gradual change, it would be the same all the time, but you never know...
In fact, if it's just a small leak, the sensors could be coping with it when the engine is cold but can't when it warms up. Only my two penn'th
Based on what you're saying, it sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. The only hoses I've messed with are the hoses connected to the gas tank. I had to disconnect all of them when I removed the tank to get to the air filter. Maybe I need to go back & check connections.
Quote from: "RickV"Based on what you're saying, it sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. The only hoses I've messed with are the hoses connected to the gas tank. I had to disconnect all of them when I removed the tank to get to the air filter. Maybe I need to go back & check connections.
It wouldn't hurt to do that, and while you're about it, check that the K&N oil hasn't gotten onto either of the sensors in the airbox. I'd still be looking at the idle air valve pipework though....
Good luck :wink:
The idle has dropped to the point that the engine will stall out at a light if I don't feather the throddle. My last tank of gas got me only 36 mpg. The "prayer light" came on around 170 miles (4.7 gallons to fill up). I've only been getting in the very low 40's since I bought this bike a few months back. It even has a slightly taller rear sprocket, so it should be getting in the high 40's to low 50's...right? The prayer light came on today at around 130 miles. If it's correct & takes approx. 4.7 gallons to fill, that would be only about 28 mpg.
I took the air filter housing off tonight. Pulled two of the three spark plugs. They looked good, but showed indications of running slightly rich. The idle control valve (the thing between TB #1 & #2 had a fair amount of crunge, so I took the cover off & wiped down the white sensor looking thing in the middle. The only thing I found that didn't look good was the larger vent hose that plugs into the right rear bottom of the filter housing. It was pinched closed about half way down. Couldn't tell by looking at it how long it's been like that. These bikes sure do have a lot of vent hoses (two in the air filter box, not counting the crank case vent line & three coming off the gas tank). That's a lot of venting...LOL. I got three 30-0 vacuum gauges. I'll try to synch the throddle bodies tomorrow and replace the one pinched vent line. If that doesn't do it, I guess it's off to the local Triumph dealer to plug into their diagnostic thingy.
Was the crunge oil-related? You're going to have to find out where that came from if it is because it'll only happen again. If it's just dirt then just cleaning it out should be enough (although I'd still want to know how it got there if it was mine).
That plus the pinched pipe is going to throw your idle mixture way out - hence the stalling. Hopefully, you're on your way to fixing it :lol:
I think the crap on the sensor was just normal stuff that accumulates over a long period of time & miles. It wasn't that much and not oily. I went to the local Triumph dealer to pick up some brake pad & showed him the vent line. He didn't think that particular vent line would cause an idle problem if pinched, but the others probably would. I changed it anyway. The TB's were in synch. All the other hoses looked OK. Made sure they weren't pinched when I put everything back together. I put everything back together, but nothing changed. Guess it's off to the Triumph dealer.
so... I take my Tiger in to the dealer for an inspection sticker. While it's there, I have them check out the mapping and ask them to try to get the idle up. Turns out, it was mapped for an after market muffler. They remapped to the stock tune. The previous owner must of had a sport pipe on, had it remapped, but replaced the stock muffler before selling the bike. Now, it runs smoother in all rpms, especially under 3K. It was probably running on the rich side. Seems to idle much better... still a little on the low side, but it doesn't stall out at a red light.
I never seemed to get any better than 40 mpg (often less), even with a taller rear sprocket. Sure hope this brings it up closer to 50 mpg.
RickV