I am helping a friend to do some maintaince work on his -98 steamer, but we ran into some trouble when trying to remove the front sprocket... We have left the rear wheel and chain on to be able to hold the sprocket still, but the big 36mm nut seems to be totally impossible to remove. The lockin washer is hammered flat and the nut has been soaked in WD40 for one night. We have tried both with an electrical (quite weak) nut machine (?) and with a 1.5m long pipe on a socket, but the d--n nut won´t move a mm. Are there any tricks to get it loose?
What is the recommended torgue for this nut?
Thankful for all help...
while it is not exactly what you would call kosher so to speak, but I have seen and been guilty of it myself ...........take a chisel and a big fookin hammer :shock: and after just one or two good smacks itt will loosen right up :D then if you dress it up with a file where you hit it with the chisel you can use the nut over again or buy a new one .
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do ! :oops:
Wouldn't that be a left handed thread? If so he's trying to make it 'tighter', right? :?:
no they are right hand thread they are just too fookin tight from the factory :shock:
Apply heat from your crack torch or heat gun. Lots of people (and me too) put those on with Loctite. Heat breaks the Loctite.
WD40 is not sheeite compared to some modern penetrating oils. :wink:
I use Kroil. There are other brands that work as well.
That front sprocket nut is very tough.... get a LONG handle.
Make certain you lean that motorcycle to the right to keep oil from
pouring out when you start removing the nut.
If memory serves, it is torqued to 135 NMs, which is about 100 ft-lbs.
That's a lot of torque, but you should certainly be able to break it. I broke one recently with a 2 ft bar. So, if you are having that much trouble, they may have used red loctite, so a propane torch might not be a bad idea. I'd say the key is even heat and possibly firmly tapping it with a hammer as you heat.
Thanks a lot all of you :D We'll give it a try with a borrowed propane torch and a chisel/hammer this afternoon... 135Nm shouldn´t be this tight.
One more question: Is the air filter on these bikes not removable without taking the whole carburator assembly apart? I can not see any way to split the airbox without removing it, and no way to remove it without removing the carburators...
What were the designers thinking :?: :?: :?:
Quote from: "zopilote"One more question: Is the air filter on these bikes not removable without taking the whole carburator assembly apart? I can not see any way to split the airbox without removing it, and no way to remove it without removing the carburators...
What were the designers thinking :?: :?: :?:
:lol:
Not only do you have to remove the carbs to get the airbox off, but once you do, you throw the entire assembly away and buy a new one! It's a non-serviceable air filter element - you replace the airbox as one piece.
However, you CAN service the air filter, just be careful splitting the box because it's fragile. K&N makes a filter for it, if you like those, too.
Pat
I know it's common practice to use a hammer and chisel on these nuts, I've done it myself. Just keep in mind that the hammer blow forces are being imposed on the ball bearings also. You could screw one up in a heartbeat.
Thanks a lot all of you. One more night soaked in WD40 and a bigger nut machine (is that the right word???) made the trick!
The old BRG steamer is now on the road again with new tires (Dunlop TrailAttack) and new sprockets/chain. :-)