Is it time for a new chain? I tried to adjust mine the other day and when at it's at it's tightest point I left around and inch and a half of free play. When the chain was not at it's tightest point it had at least 4 inches of free play. Is this normal? The chain is so loose at points it makes acceleration feel horrible. Any advice is appreciated.
*if it is time for a new chain - what do you recommend?
Thanks!
Sounds as if it's got a tight spot. That's the time for a new chain I'm afraid
Same issue I had, new chain and sprockets solved it.
I put a 19 on the front and oh my. 1st gear is a bit tall but it will cruise at 80 just under 5k!
Oh don't forget the Loobman.
http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/ (http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/)
I think I may have messed up -
I tried to adjust my chain last week and my tool kit only has (1) 12mm allen wrench. I loosened both 8mm lock nuts and used the 12mm on the drive side to adjust the chain. Do both eccentric adjusters need to be moved the same amount? Have I messed up by doing this; I put about 1k miles on it last weekend? Where do you find a 12mm allen wrench anyway, the largest I've seen at stores is around 8mm?
Sorry to be such a noob.
Yes, You've got to move both sides, but it can be done easily with the one allen key. Just don't over slacken the lock bolts. Some times the rear brake caliper bracket bearing can seize up making it impossible to adjust the right hand side. If that's the case, you hammer the bearing out, lube it up and hammer it back in.
Tiger chain and sprockets are notorious for wearing out and having tight spots.
I would slacken the chain off completely and check each individual link to see if they are free moving through their full range of movement. If any are seized, which it sounds like they are, change the chain and sprockets.
If you can pull the chain off the rear sprocket far enough to get a pencil between the sprocket teeth and the chain, it's time to replace it.
Finally, when you've checked for correct tightness, always recheck with someone sat on the bike, as the suspension some times takes up quite a bit of slack, that's where the damage can occur.
Don't forget to check for rear wheel alignment when finished.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Thanks!
You can really tell if you have a tight spot by putting in 1st gear and riding about 10 mph... you'll feel a 'surging sensation' as the chain goes 'round.
To find the allen wrenches you need ... go to a tool shop. Other than that try WhiteHorse or Aerostitch.
Trax
Another question:
It's time for a chain and sprockets on my '06. Dealer wants around $330 for the set. The chain alone is $198!
The parts lady told me that some have tried to go to aftermarket chains of the same size - and they didn't fit. :shock: :?
Has anyone gone aftermarket for gears and chains?
As an aside, does anyone who has changed the primary up to a 19 have any figures to substantiate fuel savings? Before I make a change like that, which may affect performance, I'd like to know if it's actually worth it.
Quote from: "wasions"Another question:
It's time for a chain and sprockets on my '06. Dealer wants around $330 for the set. The chain alone is $198!
The parts lady told me that some have tried to go to aftermarket chains of the same size - and they didn't fit. :shock: :?
Has anyone gone aftermarket for gears and chains?
As an aside, does anyone who has changed the primary up to a 19 have any figures to substantiate fuel savings? Before I make a change like that, which may affect performance, I'd like to know if it's actually worth it.
Find another dealer. My 03 came stock with a DID 530vm chain. You can buy them anywhere. I'm using a DID 530zvm2 chain and aftermarket sprockets now that I paid $240 for the set.
Thanks, Andy.
I'm about to get on the phone now to order a set (19/46 w/DID530VM) for $209 from Drive Systems USA (Huntington Beach, CA).
It sounds like as good a deal as I'm going to come up with in a hurry.
I only hope the 19 works out for me. At 56, I don't spend all that much time on the back wheel anyway. I've got the DR for that. :)
Bikebandit.com can get your aftermarket chains and sprogs, too.
I looked there. Basically, it came down to an easier-to-use web site. :roll:
Take my advice...give Baxter Cycle a shout...
712-781-2351
I just changed my front sprocket from 19 back to 17; New rear; New DID
530VM Gold. ( Flattening the pins is a BITCH! )
The sprocket nut continues to loosen to finger tight... this is twice it has done this. I called dealer... He says...
You must get that tightened to specs... and it must stay.
The sprocket nut requires 36mm socket ( $9 Sears ). It's a 1/2" drive.
which is what your torque wrench will be to go to the 132 Nm.
Clean the output shaft of all the oil making certain it is dry. I use CRC
electrical parts cleaner. It gets things VERRRY clean and dry. Drys very fast.
Make certain 'toothed' washer is in good shape. I was told, 'nice & flat' .. not what you want. It has to be a bit cupped shaped so the teeth can fit back onto the shaft...( Triumph says 'replace with new every time )
Apply Locktite BLUE; ( I use RED )
Tighten sprocket nut to specs. 132 Newton Meters. ( About 93 ft/lbs )
Triumph says the if that nut is allowed to loosen it can lead to major
repair or worse. ( Use imagination )
True or not true ..... I don't want to be doing 80mph and find out!
Installed new rear brake pads.
Quote from: "TigerTrax"Take my advice...give Baxter Cycle a shout...
712-781-2351
I just changed my front sprocket from 19 back to 17; New rear; New DID
530VM Gold. ( Flattening the pins is a BITCH! )
The sprocket nut continues to loosen to finger tight... this is twice it has done this. I called dealer... He says...
You must get that tightened to specs... and it must stay.
Clean the output shaft of all the oil making certain it is dry.
Make certain back washer is nice and flat ( Triumph says 'replace with new every time )
Apply Locktite BLUE;
Tighten sprocket nut to specs.
Triumph says the if that nut is allowed to loosen it can lead to major
repair or worse. ( Use imagination )
True or not true ..... I don't want to be doing 80mph and find out!
New rear brake pads.
The rivet links are a cinch if you use the right tool , get a motion pro they cost about 100 bucks and you can break the chain , press on the side plate and install the rivet master link all with the same tool .
If you are going to do your own work you need good tools !
now about that sprocket nut ..........if you want it to stay tight you must first tighten it up so it aligns with a flat of the lock tab , now take it back apart and move the lock tab washer one or two teeth to the right and put the nut back on and this time you will have to really crank the nut down to get it to line up with the lock tab . understand ? And yes you should be using a new lock washer .
+1 for the Motion Pro Jumbo chain tool and 4-facet rivet stake tool.
A'hm just gonna let the dealer put the stuff on the bike. The service guy generally bends over backward to not screw me. I appreciate that, and give him the business whenever possible.