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Tiger Time => Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) => Topic started by: JetdocX on April 25, 2008, 05:43:30 AM

Title: Pre-Air Filter???
Post by: JetdocX on April 25, 2008, 05:43:30 AM
Before I re-invent the wheel, I'd like to check here and see if any of you were kind enough to do my legwork for me beforehand.

New air filter=$60.  Must remove the carbs to remove it.  Supposed to last 24,000 miles, right?  Air intake horn near where the rear tire throws up all the dust, mud, water and rocks?  What fookin' rocket scientist designed this little gem of an intake system? :evil:

I clogged my air filter in less than a week riding in the desert.  I'm not happy about the amount of work it takes to replace it and I'm really not happy about how much this thing costs.

Has anyone made a pre-filter to fit in one of the rear airboxes.  If not, I'm going to buy some filter foam and make my own.

This air filter business is ridiculous.

And, yes I am going to clean the main element and keep it for a spare.

Thanks. :D
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Post by: Patrick on April 25, 2008, 07:51:31 AM
Whoops. He sent me a message that I answered. After that I saw this post. I think, some parts of my answer are quite interesting for other people so i will cite some of it's text:

QuoteWeeeeell....

That is not as easy as it looks... and may have some major drawbacks...

BUT: I lost both calming chambers (right word?) and installed a paper Filter at each side. There had to be a Modification of the rear end of the airbox to make the filters fit justifiedly. And some foam rubber.

The filter cartridges were hold in place by some threaded rods, that were hooked into the air box on one side and tigghten the cartridges with wing nuts on the other side.

(http://www.tigertrail900.de/projekt/pix/stufe2/Luftfilter.jpg)

QuoteDisadvantage of this setup: The filter cartridges are positioned in the dusty range of he rear wheel and choke quickly. When in contact with water, the paper macerates and the engine won#t get any air until the paper dries.

In the meantime I lost this setup. I modified the airbox in such manner that I use an LC4 airbox with an LC4 foam filter as pre-filter setup. I will post pics shortly.

...

Last weekend I learned diferent, not as effective, but easier-to-install setup: Put some fine gauze over the intake snorkel. You will lose some of the airflow but will be able to compensate it by opening the second air intake. The gauze (if fine enough will prevent lager dust and dirt particles from entering the airbox.

It may help to transfere the air intake (with any kind of hose or something into an area that is not as dusty as the rear wheel spinning aarea (i.e. under the seat?)

I hope this helps you. Good luck.


Greets

Patrick
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Post by: CBAT on April 25, 2008, 03:24:48 PM
for my trip to Big Bend last year I went to cycle gear and bought a 2 (IIRC) inch Uni Universal foam filter and clamped it to the intake snorkel. I did not oil it since I was just looking to catch the biggest chunks of dirt and I didn't want to impede air flow that much. It worked great. At the end of each day I would take the pre-filter off and knock the dirt/dust out. It tucks up under the rear side panel no problemo.  :wink:
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Post by: JetdocX on April 27, 2008, 07:32:06 PM
I'm sure someone has tried it and failed, but what about eliminating the stupid airbox(es) completely and clamping three filters directly to the carb intakes?

I know the jetting will change.  I'm trying to avoid the $70 filter replacement and the work of getting to the stupid filter.

Anyone?  I may just try it for grins.
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Post by: Mustang on April 28, 2008, 04:16:41 PM
the three pod filters has been tried and you can make it work , but you will need a dyno and lots of trial and error . the beast runs best with all of the plastic duct work triumph designed . the uni filter over the snorkel is the best and easiest fix ! my .02 opinion . your results may vary .
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Post by: nightrunner on April 28, 2008, 09:34:16 PM
Yup, in fact K&N even listed (or used to) the part # for the three pod filters.  I'm not sure anyone ever really put the effort into sorting out the proper jetting.   But plan on pilot and main changes, and drilling the slide. I also recall someone posting that the center pod hits the frame spine.  This was long ago on one of the Yahoo Tiger groups (in case you're up for searching)
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Post by: JetdocX on April 29, 2008, 02:48:52 AM
I was looking at the center carb and figured the frame post was going to cause a problem.   :roll:

This induction system is poorly designed to say the least and I'm sure this bike was not meant for desert riding.  Is there dust in Britain? :?   Probably not.

How about cutting some filter foam oversized, oiling it and stuffing it into the smaller aft airboxes.  When one side clogs, remove a fairing and uncap and drive on.  That's kind-of the direction I'm heading.

I'm waiting for a new air filter right now instead of riding the bike and it pisses me off in a big way. :evil:
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Post by: JetdocX on April 29, 2008, 03:01:21 AM
Patrick,  saw the airbox mod on ADV.

Care to share with the rest of the class?  Please?  Pretty please, sugar coated? :lol:

With a side of bacon????
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Post by: aeronca on April 29, 2008, 04:39:14 AM
BACON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twisted: [/b]
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Post by: Stretch on April 29, 2008, 05:03:42 AM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/receive_bacon.jpg)
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Post by: JetdocX on April 29, 2008, 05:05:32 AM
MMMMMMMM!   BACON! 8)
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Post by: JetdocX on April 29, 2008, 05:08:11 AM
American bacon, not that Canooooooodlian ham stuff.  Really!

Back bacon, baby. :D
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Post by: Stretch on April 29, 2008, 05:10:01 AM
Over two billion pounds of bacon are produced in the U.S. each year.

Fuck yeah.
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Post by: JetdocX on April 29, 2008, 05:12:09 AM
Should I use bacon grease in my aftermarket air filter?????? :roll:

PUI bacon air filter forum now!
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Post by: Stretch on April 29, 2008, 05:13:58 AM
It would probably make it easier to get the airbox in and out.
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Post by: nightrunner on April 30, 2008, 06:52:02 PM
I suppose bacon grease would work.  Use what ya got.  :lol:

Seriously, I put a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on both sets of boots on the carbs.  Carb and airbox removal is pretty easy now, and it actually helps form an air-tight seal when the clamps are tightened down.
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Post by: Mustang on May 02, 2008, 03:25:53 PM
after you remove and replace carbs enuff you can do it with your eyes closed and half asleep , just takes a lot of practice  :ImaPoser
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Post by: JetdocX on May 03, 2008, 06:00:59 PM
Quote from: "Mustang"after you remove and replace carbs enuff you can do it with your eyes closed and half asleep , just takes a lot of practice  :ImaPoser

There's really nothing funny about the above post. :lol:

Can't wait to do it again today!  Yay! :evil:
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Post by: MontanaBBQ on May 08, 2008, 07:25:57 AM
Remove stock airbox - install 3 pod filters - been there and done that!  There is a fair amount of info over at triumphrat.net - seems like quite a few of the T-bird and Legend triple guys have gone this route.  

I too had my fill of the stock airbox setup.  I can't believe they put the intake snorkel directly above the rear wheel!  

Kevin (great guy - too bad he's gone) at Baxter Cycle sold me the goods to convert to 3 individual K&N's plus a Factory Pro jet kit.  He had done the same on his personal bike and was able to walk me through it.  After 13,000 + miles, I guess I can say it works OK.  Is it better, easier, worth the money?  I don't have a solid answer - probably not.  The pod filters are such a tight fit, I don't see any way to clean/service them without removing the carbs again.  It seems darn near impossible to pull the pods off and reinstall them properly with the carbs on the bike - it is just too tight in there.  I found the jetting was pretty straight forward, but I've never dyno tested my bike to really verify any gains.  It sure adds some intake growl at WOT.  Highway mileage stayed about the same.  I did pick up a little surge at 4K RPM, but not enough to really bother me.  It made the bike a bit slower to come off choke - especially when it's wintery cold.  I'm sure a better mechanic than me could sort it out further and make it all worth while.  I can provide filter / jet kit p/n's if desired, and the base line jetting I used if you desire.

Thanks,
Doug B.
Billings, Montana, USA
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Post by: JetdocX on May 08, 2008, 05:28:38 PM
Thanks, Doug, but I think I'm going to slide a couple of Uni filters over both intake irbox inlets, tape one inlet closed before doing so.

When that one clogs, three screws gain access to the other inlet to open it up.

I'll post some pics when I get my bike back.
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Post by: JetdocX on July 02, 2008, 10:13:40 PM
Here's what I ended up with.  I bought a couple of Uni dual stage air filters with a 2 1/4 " IIRC throat.

I removed the outer foam filter due to lack of clearance.  Then I oiled them down and installed them right on the aft airboxes in place of the ducts.

(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/photos/324303118_iC23V-M.jpg)

They fit and do not burn up (so far) on the exhaust.  (fingers crossed).

Picture of the left side:
(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/photos/324303031_3LUhv-M.jpg)

I was planning on blocking off the right airbox for use as a spare when the left filter clogged along the dusty trail.  I ended up trying it with both airboxes open.

I'm pretty sure I just earned a few more ponies!   :D  It sure runs great up here at 4500 feet.  I'll be taking it down to sea level next week for some more testing.  I'm bringing gorilla tape to restrict the right airbox should the bike start running like crap. :evil:
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Post by: Mustang on July 02, 2008, 10:39:26 PM
maybe the foam offers just enough restriction so it still runs good !

What I found out a long time ago was with the right snorkel open as well as the left the bike ran good up until about 4500 rpm then she was starvin for fuel , and I mean starvin as in dyin did not even want to run
you will need bigger main jets if the foam doesn't offer enough restriction

you might have to duct tape  your bunghole  :ImaPoser
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Post by: JetdocX on July 03, 2008, 05:08:16 AM
The fun now starts around 4500 and the rev counter might as well be a fun meter all the way up to the limiter.  

I think my carbs are jetted larger, otherwise this would not work.  Keep in mind its about 90 degrees and 4500 feet which puts the density altitude up around 8000 feet.

I regularly carry Gorilla tape. :lol:   Not for my bunghole though.  I don't like the way it pulls the hair off if it needs to be removed :shock:
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Post by: JetdocX on July 15, 2008, 03:17:11 AM
Update:  Spent last week and weekend at oe very near sea level.  It pulls even harder down where the air is not so rare.  I'm happier than a two-dicked dog. :D  :D  :D

Still smells a tiny bit rich at idle/stoplights, but I am back up to 40 and some change MPG.  And that's mostly slab riding 80+ mph.  

After the valve job, mileage was low (35 or so) so I hope to see it get even better. :wink:
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Post by: Mustang on July 16, 2008, 07:02:52 PM
Quote from: "JetdocX"Update:  Spent last week and weekend at oe very near sea level.  It pulls even harder down where the air is not so rare.  I'm happier than a two-dicked dog. :D  :D  :D

Still smells a tiny bit rich at idle/stoplights, but I am back up to 40 and some change MPG.  And that's mostly slab riding 80+ mph.  

After the valve job, mileage was low (35 or so) so I hope to see it get even better. :wink:
Great isn't it I live at 400 ft elev. all the time
and I think Mudhen is at sea level  :shock:  well close enuff anyway

40's is pretty damn good for 80 mph slab running
two lane 50-60 mph should see you with 50+ mpg
I think I got 340 miles on a tankful once , mind you it was filled right to the rim , and ran almost to the bottom
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