TigerTriple.com

Yeah I know, it's really not a big deal, but we're trying build a Hall of Wisdom.

Tools required:

Flat screwdriver (for your windscreen)
5mm hex key  
6mm hex key
H4 60/55w bulb
dielectric grease

First, disconnect the battery.  But I didn't, because the headlights only come on when the ignition is switched on, and I'm unsafe.  :mrgreen:

Remove the windscreen to expose the upper fairing bolts.

Remove the turn signal housing screws (two of them, 5mm hex)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1538.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1539.jpg)
And the same on the other side of the bike.


I don't have a short 5mm hex key for the inboard turn signal housing screws, so I use a T-30 bit and a 1/4" combination wrench...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1540.jpg)


... to remove this screw.  Same for the other side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1541.jpg)


Lower the turn signal housings out of the way.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1543.jpg)


Remove the upper fairing bolts (6mm hex)...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1544.jpg)

...and the lower fairing bolts (same for the other side).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1546.jpg)


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1547.jpg)
Topless Tiger.


Remove the headlight housing screws (5 mm hex.  Also one on the other side)...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1549.jpg)

... and one underneath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1552.jpg)


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1553.jpg)


Squeeze the sides of the connector to release the locks...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1555.jpg)

... and unplug.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1556.jpg)


Gently pull on the bottom edge of the rubber donut...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1557.jpg)

... and remove.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1558.jpg)


Unclip the ends of the wire bale...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1559.jpg)

... and swing it out of the way.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1560.jpg)


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1561.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1562.jpg)
Phillips H4  12342  12v  50/55w


I replaced both bulbs with Sylvania SilverStar Ultra 9003's, 55/60w (a bit brighter than the old ones) H4, about fifty bucks for the pair at Autozone...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1567.jpg)
Don't forget to put a dab of grease on each connection to keep voltage-robbing oxidation at bay.

Do not touch the glass part of halogen bulbs.  They get so blasted hot, that the oil from your fingers will cause the glass to crack.

Reverse these steps for reassembly.


I'll be damned.  They work!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1569.jpg)

A bit off topic, but where did you get your pillion backrest?  Or did you make it?  Thanks.

Nice!  :thumbsup

Quote from: "rainycoastguy"A bit off topic, but where did you get your pillion backrest?  Or did you make it?  Thanks.

I made it myself...  http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4172 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4172)

Thanks.  do you mind if I copy?  It's a lovely bit of fabricating.

Please, be my guest and improve on it.

Then post pics.   8)

Thanks!  It looks like even I can do it.

I think you should "sticky" the repair stuff or make a wrenchin' section and put them all in one spot.

Nice work Stretch, good write up and clear pics. I could have done with this before I tackled the job for the first time a few weeks ago.

+1 on the sticky idea.

Quote from: "ThreePutt"I think you should "sticky" the repair stuff or make a wrenchin' section and put them all in one spot.

Yep, we're working on that.

I change those often to tried different bulb. Once, a friend asked me to change the ones on his V-strom. I really wished to be able to do it like his.  A 5 sec jobs,  plenty of access space without having nothing to dismentle.  A dream....  But still preffer my bike.  By the way, the best Bulb I Tried got was the Wagner Brite Light.

Hey Strech, how about a "how to" on tank removal...and then maybe valve adjustment?

They are the last two major disassemblies I have not done and  your "how to"s greatly advance our Tiger knowledge base.

Your insite to Tiger maintance is great, thanks and keep'm coming.

btw, are you coming to the East Coast Tiger Ride-In?

S/F

Ed

eldiii

ops..maintenance

Thanks for the kind words.

My Tiger has 22,500 miles on it, which means I'm due for a major service and valve adjustment very shortly.  I will be taking pics and post a write-up sometime thereafter.

I won't be at the Ride-In, I'm afraid... we have a family reunion, followed by our traditional week at da beach.

Y'all have fun.   8)

Hi All   Thought I would throw in a little mod I did the last time I changed bulbs. I was tired of trying to adjust headlights with the plastic off so I removed the 2 adjusting screws from each light assembly and silver soldered a 7 inch section of a heavy duty drain snake flex from home depot onto the bolts and a 1/4" screwdriver bit onto the other end. A trip to the hardware store got me new quick nuts? (the push on washers you have to break to remove the bolts from the light assemblies). Now to adjust the lights when I load all the touring junk on back I just have to take a screwdriver to the ends of the cables that are just under the triple clamp. I put clear plastic tube over the flex so nothing would chafe. Works great and ends the adjusting hassle.   OLY

You clever devil.

Quote from: "Tigger_rider"Hi All   Thought I would throw in a little mod I did the last time I changed bulbs. I was tired of trying to adjust headlights with the plastic off so I removed the 2 adjusting screws from each light assembly and silver soldered a 7 inch section of a heavy duty drain snake flex from home depot onto the bolts and a 1/4" screwdriver bit onto the other end. A trip to the hardware store got me new quick nuts? (the push on washers you have to break to remove the bolts from the light assemblies). Now to adjust the lights when I load all the touring junk on back I just have to take a screwdriver to the ends of the cables that are just under the triple clamp. I put clear plastic tube over the flex so nothing would chafe. Works great and ends the adjusting hassle.   OLY

This sounds like a great idea.  Got any pics?  I'm not seeing it in my head just yet.

Quote from: "Tigger_rider"silver soldered a 7 inch section of a heavy duty drain snake flex from home depot onto the bolts and a 1/4" screwdriver bit onto the other end.

I think I saw a note about that mod on the Yahoo lists, guess it was you. Sensible mod, any pics?

Do all Girlies have both H4 bulbs? Mine has one side that is high beam only. The other is both high and low beam. I think this varies, or not?

Any recommendations on bulbs?

Quote from: "Nimrod11"Do all Girlies have both H4 bulbs? Mine has one side that is high beam only. The other is both high and low beam. I think this varies, or not?

Any recommendations on bulbs?

USA models have both low beams on and both high beams come on when switched to high beam

other markets have one low beam depends on what country the bike was first imported to

Mustang,

I think my bike is a lot like the ones sent to Germany - one clue is that the service manual is in German  :)

I know one light is low and high beam and the other is high only. When in low beam, only one side is on.

You can see it here
(http://tigertriple.com/forum/files/img00195b_780.jpg)

So, anyone know what bulbs I need?

Quote from: "Nimrod11"So, anyone know what bulbs I need?

The standard bulb is a regular H4 Lucas 472.

Both bulbs?

Both are H4's

I have an H4 55/60 (dual filament) in the dip side and the full beam side has an H4 single filament (spelling)

Quote from: "moose"I have an H4 55/60 (dual filament) in the dip side and the full beam side has an H4 single filament (spelling)

you either have a standard bike with no relay upgrade or yer bulb is duff  :roll:

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/viewto ... ght=relays (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7768&highlight=relays)

fitting an extra relay gives ya both low and high beams !!

KK

Quote from: "Nimrod11"So, anyone know what bulbs I need?

as said above !! they`re both H4 !! while yer in there why not get xenon bulbs !! a bit more $$££ but worth it for the extra light for the same wattage !!

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Professi ... index.html (http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Professionals/Automotive_Lighting/Products/Headlights/NIGHT_BREAKER/index.html)

there are other makes of this type of bulb !!

KK

Quoteyou either have a standard bike with no relay upgrade or yer bulb is duff

I have no relay upgrade, the reason being is the mainbeam side lens has no pattern to dip the light to the left.  They are both different lenses, one with pattern (main and dip) and one without pattern Main only.

Quote from: "KuzzinKenny"while yer in there why not get xenon bulbs !! a bit more $$££ but worth it for the extra light for the same wattage !!

Thanks for the info and tips, KK.

I did plan to go for a xenon but am still unsure what is what. It seems to me there are "xenon like" bulbs out there, costing something like $10 to $20, but other, usually with a reactor or ballast, go for as much as $500!

Are the simple bulb replacements, no wiring involved, an effective solution? When you say "more $$$$", how much do you mean?

Havent had the Tiger long enough to comment about their H-4 bulbs. But -  my experience with the Uly H7s is: the MORE $... the LESS life. Sylvania Ultras or Silverstars give me about 3-5k mi @ $50 a set. The cheaper standard bulbs last 2-3x as long and are half the price. I dont ride at night much - too many animals & crazy people trying to kill ya. So 25% more light from the Ultras doesnt matter much in my case. j

QuoteWhen you say "more $$$$", how much do you mean?

Have a look here for some ideas

http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/electrical--lighting-upgrades-337-c.asp

I have found the Nightbreakers a major improvement over the standard bulbs for not too much cash.

Quote from: "moose"I have no relay upgrade, the reason being is the mainbeam side lens has no pattern to dip the light to the left.  They are both different lenses, one with pattern (main and dip) and one without pattern Main only.

Sound right.  I bought a lefthand drive Girly in Spain and brought it back to righthand drive land (NZ), and had to change the lens to get it MOT'd. The cheapest option was to buy just the one lens that allowed for the Dip to the left. Now I can Dip either way depending upon relays. (or actually in my case I simply swapped the plugs over on the bulbs as I didn't have a relay and wanted to get her MOT'd)

Solved, at least for now. Spoke to some guys yesterday and it seems to me that there's a first "level" of bulbs with a higher temperature (between 4000 and 5000K) that are much more efective than regular halogens. Then there's one level above that (~5500K) that is bluer but not much more effective. Then you go to the ones with reactors or balasts and they are even hotter and so very white.

From the opinions I got, above the first level, the effect is esthetics only. And as mentioned by jphish, life only goes down.

Got myself some Philips CrystalVision 4300K. Seems that the US market only has 5000k ones but that's what I found. I'll put them and and see how they look.