I am in need of some info.
I have a oil leak at the shaft(Where the front sprocket fits on). Do the whole engine have to be ripped apart to get to that plastic seal, or is there another way to seal this leakage?
Leaking at a rate of 1l oil per 1500km of cruise speed which is a big pain in the ass!! :shock:
"Did you blow a seal?"
"No, that's just ice cream in my mustache."
(rimshot)
That seal can be replaced without tearing in to the engine. Once the sprocket (part 28 ) is off, remove the spacer (27), and the oil seal (26) is there under the spacer.
(http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Triumph/TR-0606-212.gif)
Use some sort of improvised hook-like tool to dig out the seal. Doing so will trash the seal though, so have the replacement in hand before you pull the old one.
Be careful to not scratch the insides of the hole that the seal is recessed into, and the countershaft itself, or the new seal will leak.
Stretch, you are a legend!!
Thanks for the info.
Regards
Kampies
Thanks.
Mind the horns.
(http://www.amazingtoyz.com/images/ssLEGlordPF_pp_copy.jpg)
On mine the spacer didn't want to slip out. I drilled a small hole in the metal rim of the seal so I could put a sheet metal screw into it and pull it with that
( little slide hammer body puller works a treat). I then went to hardware store and found an appropriately sized PVC pipe couple to tap it into the seat.
The spacer marked 27? My Tiger dont have that. Sprocket is connected strait onto the shaft... interesting...
My seal arrived today, will hopefully install it tomorrow. Did you lay the bike on its side when you installed it? Just wondering if it is necessary? I want to prevent the oil from spilling out.
It wouldn't hurt.
Sorry, i talked shit. The spacer no. 27 was in place.
Oil seal is replaced, just have to get rid of some nasty chain noise!!
Quote from: "Kampies"The spacer no. 27 was in place.
Sitting inside the seal, right? I swapped my 17-tooth trail sprocket for the 19-tooth road sprocket a few days back, and although the spacer doesn't jump out at you, it sits inside the seal, allowing you to torque down the 36mm sprocket nut without binding the outer bearing race and seal. The spacer takes the pressure and backs up against the inner race of the bearing, which in turn backs onto a shoulder on the countershaft itself.
Sorry to bring back an old thread...
Here is my countershaft seal leak: (attached photo)
The leak is coming from the OUTSIDE surface of the seal where it meets the engine case. Seems like this may not be fixed by just replacing the seal. The leak is slow at this point and I will likely just monitor it but I am wondering if anyone has and advice or special suggestion on how to cure this?
Unless that`s just crap round the south west side of the seal, it looks like the seal was damaged when it was installed. More likeley than the engine case damaged. A new seal CAREFULLY fitted should stop that. Maybe a little smear of thin oil or liquid sealant on the outside diameter to help it slip in.
Ray. :roll:
the bottom left quarter looks like it has been banged into place a bit too vigorously, either that or someone pushed it in too far and tried levering it back out some - i love speculation... :D
Quote from: "BigMark"the bottom left quarter looks like it has been banged into place a bit too vigorously, either that or someone pushed it in too far and tried levering it back out some - i love speculation... :D
It might require speculation but the beauty is a guy in Washington asks a question and two guys from across the pond jump in to help.
Gotta Love That,
The power of the internet, don't you just love this forum 8)
Thanks for the thoughts guys! I have a new seal on the way (along with a few other bits) so hopefully a careful install and some gasket maker on the outside will do the trick.
Anyone have experience with removing the spacer behind the sprocket? Mine seems pretty well stuck in place. I will try to take some pictures for a CS seal replacement tutorial to add to the hall of wisdom.
Apparently The Bike I got was destined for America, when I walked into the dealers it was the only one they could get for me in Silver (theyr'e the fastest) and his nose had to be turned to the left...
Is there a difference between the uk and the US versions i can use to verify this rumour. I see some have the eye brows and some have various fairing / screen heights..
Lights.
When I bought a left hand drive Tiger to the right hand part of the world, the big issue was lights dipping to left (from high)... And if you look at the parts logs you find there are 2 different headlight set options. (ie: Right fitting available as Hi/low lens and as Hi lens, same for left... 4 different lens options in total.)
Where I had to buy my way around this yours would have had the correct eyes fitted... just as it would have had one of those old imperial indicators of speed fitted. Mine was in Km/hr :lol:
Other differences, and there will be some, I know nothing about.
Quote from: "Iain"Thanks for the thoughts guys! I have a new seal on the way (along with a few other bits) so hopefully a careful install and some gasket maker on the outside will do the trick.
Anyone have experience with removing the spacer behind the sprocket? Mine seems pretty well stuck in place. I will try to take some pictures for a CS seal replacement tutorial to add to the hall of wisdom.
Iain,
Did you get the seal replaced? If so did you take any pics, they would be useful as I need to do the same thing in the next week or teo.
Thanks,
You know, I did not replace the seal yet. My girly is having some major engine trouble, it sounds like I may have spun a rod bearing on my last ride.
The bike has plenty of oil, a fresh K&N air filter, and has been running like a top for 26k miles but 2 weeks ago after a 200 mile ride I was in the city after getting off the freeway and bike started knocking loudly but didn't loose power. I just started the disassembly last night and if all the valves are still in spec (didn't drop a valve seat) than I will be pulling the motor and tearing it down completely to see what went wrong. It has never been more than .5 quart low because I am aware of the leak and I carry spare oil to add at gas stops.
Anyone know of a good 955i engine floating around that someone would let go cheap?
New update on my problem: Broken spark plug electrode in the engine.
The electrode broke off one of my nice $10/per plug NGK iridium units. The motor is about 75% out of the bike now. I will do a compression check and then pull the head to assess the damage.
It's been a while since I was this (un)lucky so I won't complain too much :?
Hope it's not too bad when you open her up.
By strange coincidence I just picked up my Vara from service last night, speaking to the mechanic (who is also doing my steamer rebuild - I trust him) he replaced the Iridium plugs with Platinum plugs, he commented that he has had quite a few failures with the Iridium ones. There ssems to be a join in the electrode about 5-6mm from the tip inside the insulator where the two metals are joined. This seems to breakdown, the first sign of something wrong is poor starting and runnning when cold at light throttle which gets better as the engine gets hot. If this is ignored and it gets worse the next thing is the tip falls off.
This was noted on several different makes and engines so it's not a T3 thing.
I realise that's not much help to you now but I suggest not using Iridium plugs again although it might just be a batch issue.
That is good information but oddly enough, it was not the center electrode that broke, it was the ground electrode, the 90degree bend part.
There was no sign other than a slight miss when I got off the freeway at partial throttle, one more stumble on a city street then 1 mile later started the loud knocking.
FYI- The head bolts on these things are TIGHT I broke my Torx bit last night trying to disassemble. At least the bolt head isn't too messed up.