What size Torx are required for the Girly? Specifically, to remove the rear shock and other bits on the engine/frame?
Thanks for your help guys!
Quote from: "matttys"What size Torx are required for the Girly? Specifically, to remove the rear shock and other bits on the engine/frame?
Thanks for your help guys!
Get yourself a set that goes up to T-60 and you should be all set .
I will also mention that if you buy the bits that are all 1 pc ( the cheap ones ) you WILL break them every time you use them cuz the torx bolts are friggin tight from the factory !
Get a set instead that has a seperate bit from the socket , they are manufactured much harder and less likely to break .
Craftsman bits are very good and if you break one you can get it replaced for free . and there are Sears stores everywhere !
Quote from: "Mustang"Get yourself a set that goes up to T-60 and you should be all set .
I will also mention that if you buy the bits that are all 1 pc ( the cheap ones ) you WILL break them every time you use them cuz the torx bolts are friggin tight from the factory !
Sounds good. I work for an industrial distributor so I can get "special" pricing on almost anything I use in my garage. We have a set that goes up to 60, I just didn't know if that was larger enough. I'm in for the set!
Hopefully I don't have to my new shim tool tonight. I mean I'm always excited to use new tools, but I'd rather not have to use the tool because that means I have to buy new shims!
Is Triumph the only source for valve shims or is another brand that has cheaper or faster shipping shims?
Thanks for your help Mustang!
OK, just checking back. Cost of the 13 piece set is a bit expensive, even with a sweet discount. Which of the larger sizes are needed on the Girly? I'd rather buy them by the ones and twos than pay a bunch for the whole set that duplicates many of the bits on my hex key-like Torx.
I seem to recall that the smaller Torx that secure the side panels, the horn bracket, and half of the front fender... are T-30. The big 'uns at the engine mounts are T-55 (I remember that one, because it's the one I lost in the middle of my 24,000 service (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/bluduh.gif) ).
Camshaft bearing cap screws are also T-30. I broke two of those, and still didn't get them loose.
:BangHead
But yeah, you can't go wrong with a quality set.
Our bikes use a 25mm shim, the same size used in several Yamaha (VMax), Honda (CR250), Suzuki.... blah, blah... you get it. I found shims for my 955i Sprint at my local Yamaha dealer, they only charged me $2.50 each vs Triumph, or Bike Bandit's $7 charge plus shipping.
I highly recommend taking a micrometer with you. Even though the shims are stamped with their size, it still varies a lot. I needed a couple of shims in the 2.65 range, and found a few stamped with that number but they measured 2.63, 2.68, 2.62. You can use any sized shim that'll keep you within the specs, personally I shoot for the loose side since valves tighten up over time.
Here's a link for a valve shim clearance calculator that makes things a bit easier by simply filling in the information, you'll find it at the bottom of the thread: http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-clas ... shims.html (http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/87523-those-valve-shims.html)
Excellent - too bad I have to call Team Triumph now. The plastic fuel line connectors broke off when I removed the tank. How do I extract the piece that is stuck inside the fuel tank cover? Can I yank or do I have to rotate them (ie they screw in)?
Quote from: "matttys"Can I yank or do I have to rotate them (ie they screw in)?
No. You have to lift the spring clip (which is what you should have done in the first place :roll:) and it should come out if you insert some needle nose pliers in the hole and open them up and pull.
moved to the Girly forum.
Geof
Quote from: "blacktiger"No. You have to lift the spring clip (which is what you should have done in the first place :roll:) and it should come out if you insert some needle nose pliers in the hole and open them up and pull.
Haha, I acutally left them connected and moved the tank around a bit to make sure that I had all the other lines disconnected. While doing this, I bumped it against the side of the frame and one of the connectors started to leak. At that point, I disconnected the lines and in the process of removing the broken connector it snapped off completely. It's OK, Team Triumph has the new parts coming :D