Getting ready to pull the tank to do some of the 24k maintenance.
First thing is plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil change... and changing the breather seal / gasket.
I can't find the oil drain plug seals or fuel o-rings on BikeBandit.
And is there anything else I should NOT reuse while doing all of this? Seal's, gaskets, bolts?
do you have a propane torch? You could anneal the copper washer for the oil drain if you want.... I have done this with fork sealing washers, and the ones for the oil cooler.... you can do this 4-5 times without a problem.
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference_and_technical/how_to/annealing_copper_and_aluminium.html
decent auto parts stores should have some nitrile o-rings (the carquest across the street certainly does). Take an old o-ring with you and get one just like it. or several.
Thanks, I'll try to find them locally.
I just tore the bike down, and other than a stripped screw issue it was pretty easy following Stretch's guides. Thanks, Stretch!
I had also read through the Triumph service manual before hand, and since I had a 2005 I had completely expected to have a single fuel fitting, but I don't I have two? VIN ends in 203673... so I guess it makes sense... but I didn't expect a VIN this low on a 2005. Not that it would have affected my decision to buy the bike but I'm a little bummed out I've got older tech on my bike.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN0697-1.jpg)
Stranger still, I didn't find a hose attached to the fitting above the fuel pump electrical connection. I don't see any loose hoses. What is this supposed to connect to?
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Stranger still, I didn't find a hose attached to the fitting above the fuel pump electrical connection. I don't see any loose hoses. What is this supposed to connect to?
Nothing. :D
Early 885i's had the hose. I don't on my 2000. The regulator doesn't need it.
Early 955's used the regulator hose attached, it ran to the airbox for vacuum pressure. It was easier, and cheaper, for Triumph to leave the regulator in-place on later models that didn't use it.
Looks like you're doing great with your maintenance tear down, I'm not going to be too far behind you. Mine's needing a new rectifier and stator, so I'm going to do the fuel filter and plugs at the same time. My valves were supposedly done by the previous owner, but I'm going to crack open the cam cover and inspect the clearances anyway since I'm just over 24k.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Thanks, I'll try to find them locally.
I just tore the bike down, and other than a stripped screw issue it was pretty easy following Stretch's guides. Thanks, Stretch!
I had also read through the Triumph service manual before hand, and since I had a 2005 I had completely expected to have a single fuel fitting, but I don't I have two? VIN ends in 203673... so I guess it makes sense... but I didn't expect a VIN this low on a 2005. Not that it would have affected my decision to buy the bike but I'm a little bummed out I've got older tech on my bike.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN0697-1.jpg)
I have a VIN of 2045** and I also got the earlier double fuel connectors (plastic).
Double or single... I doubt one is an improvement over the other. Just make sure you get the metal connectors.
Quote from: "The Kurgan"Double or single... I doubt one is an improvement over the other. Just make sure you get the metal connectors.
Good advice. I just took my tank off and broke on of mine. I'm just lucky that it is 30F here and I'm not really that excited to ride right now :roll:
It's -11 (windchill) here right now. I want to try out my eBay'd FirstGear Kilimanjaro jacket out but not that badly :)
I'm still going back and forth on weather I want to crack the valve cover or not. It will save me $400 without the adjustment so I might, but I'm going to have to take it to the dealer for the intake balance and code check anyway.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"I'm still going back and forth on weather I want to crack the valve cover or not. .
DO IT !
you don't have to take anything apart to check them . Then you will know if you have to have them done or not , you might not need any done ............but at least you will know what they are !
Just do it !
Hehe alright...
Don't see a Stretch guide for this one...
Any magic in getting the cover off and saving the gasket?
Do I need anything other than a T-30 and some feeler gauges?
I've got the calculator spreadsheet.
No magic at all. The gasket is very thick and resilient. You would have to be a complete gorilla to screw it up. :wink:
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Hehe alright...
Don't see a Stretch guide for this one...
I had, in fact, planned on writing an illustrated how-to for 'valve shim check / replace', and had gone so far as having taken the photos to document the disassemble and clearance check, and was even going to remove and replace a shim to include in the how-to (even though they were all within spec). But...
Whether you remove the cams or use a shim tool, you have to remove the cam bearing cap bolts at some point. But some previous ham-handed dealer-flunkie torqued my cam cap bolts so tight, I broke two T-30 sockets trying to get them loose. I finally said 'screw it' and counted my blessings that I didn't
need to change a shim.
Anywho, that's why. I didn't want to post a write-up for 'Checking Only', as that doesn't do much good for the guy who does need to change a shim. If I can't do a job right, I won't do it at all.
Is there a Mustang shim change write-up in Steamers? The procedure is the same.
Not that I know of. If you find it, go ahead and post the link in Steamer Wisdom.
Here ya go boys
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,34256#34256
Thanks!