Triumph Valve shim tool Instructions
Valve Clearance Measurement
NOTE : Valve clearances must be checked with the engine cold (no running for 12 hours)
NOTE 2: If you are not very mechanical you should cease at this point and take your bike to the dealer before you screw something up !
1.Remove camshaft cover . Loosen bolts in a criss cross pattern working from center to outside
2. Remove spark plugs to reduce compression during rotating of engine .
3. Shift Transmission to a higher gear (ie. 5th or 6th). Using the rear wheel to rotate the engine until a pair of valves have the cam lobes pointing 180 degrees away from the valve shim . (see fig. 1)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/1.jpg)
figure 1
4. Using a feeler gauge check the clearance and record the measurement for this cylinder using the worksheet included with these instructions
5. Repeat the above process 3 thru 4 for each pair of valves .
6. If the measurement does not fall within the allowable specification the shim must be replaced with one of the proper size to obtain correct spec . (use the charts included to determine proper shim .)
Valve clearance specifications
Intake valves = 0.10 - 0.15 mm (.004-.006 inch)
Exhaust valves = 0.15 - 0.20 mm (.006 - .008 inch)
.05 mm = .002 inch
Valve Shim Replacement
NOTE : you dont need the tool to replace shims it can be done also by removing the cams . the tool just eliminates the need to remove cams .
Valves can be adjusted in pairs using the valve shim tool .to hold the valve open to allow removal of shim .
1. Rotate each shim bucket so that the slots in the shim buckets are facing the outer edges of the cylinder head .(see fig. 2)The shim bucket moves easily if the cam lobe is not pressing on valve . Not real necessary , but just make sure you can access the slot easily on the valve you are working on , you will use this notch to pick at the shim to lift it out of the bucket .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/2.jpg)
figure 2
The position of the slots is not critical , they are used for access to the shim for lifting/prying the shim out of the bucket . arrange them so they are convenient to access .
2. Rotate the engine using the rear wheel until the pair of valves to be adjusted are held fully open (shim bucket compressed) , ensure that the shim buckets do not rotate .
(An easier way to rotate the engine crank is with a wrench on the RHS crankshaft where the timing disc is . It just requires removal of the cover over the crank and a new gasket when you put it back together .Leave the engine in neutral for this )
3. Attach the tool mounting plate to the engine on the camshaft caps for the valves requiring adjustment . (see fig. 3) tighten hand tight is all , you do not want to screw these cam caps up because you will have to buy a new head to repair , be careful .
figure 3(shows old style tool finger)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/3.jpg)
4. Attach the tool legs to the mounting plate and adjust the position of tool leg so that it captures the shim bucket , not the shim (see photo next page)
photo shows tool in use on a 1995 Tiger see how the tool leg holds the shim bucket down
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/P1190028.jpg)
(above photos show the old style fingers , the new style works the same they are just more adjustable )
see photo below for new style fingers .
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/6.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/4.jpg)
Attach the tool fingers to the tool engine plate just snug , so that they can be adjusted front to back easily . screw the tool leg down toward the shim bucket and using both up and down as well as front to back adjustments set the tip of the tool leg like in the above picture . firmly attach the plate mounting screws and roll the back wheel to bring the cam lobe off the shim bucket , leaving the shim bucket compressed (as in photo) pay real close attention to the above CAUTION
5. Rotate engine backwards until cam lobes are pointing up and the tool legs capture the shim bucket preventing them from lifting , now shim can be removed using a brass pick and a magnet . (remember your motor is open and you don't want to drop anything )
6. Take a replacement shim of correct size and lubricate with motor oil before installing . Fit a new shim to the shim bucket (it will take you a few tries before you get it seated right , you will get better the more you do it)
7. Rotate the engine until the cam lobes are on the shim ,valves are now open and remove the tool legs .
8. Repeat above procedure for each pair of valves requiring adjustment
NOTE : the tool is made to do two pair of valves without having to move the tool mounting plate
Note: When setting the tool legs I find it easier to roll the cam lobe past center just a little bit which lets the shim bucket start to come back up , set the tool fingers to the shim buckets and continue to roll the camshaft lobe until it is straight up , by doing this it leaves the bucket up proud of the engine casting and makes fitting the tool fingers to the buckets easier , it also makes removing the shim just a tad easier also .
9. When reassembling camshaft cover to engine apply a good quality RTV Silicone Sealant to the areas of engine shown in fig. 5 below . Also your rubber cam cover gasket can be reused as long as it is in good condition and hasn't become swollen (still fits the shape of cover) . If in doubt , replace it anyway , costs about 20 bucks from your friendly Triumph Dealer !
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/5.jpg)
figure 5
apply the silicone to the engine block not the valve cover , helps prevent silicone from getting everywhere when reassembling cover !
10 , Tighten the bolts on cam cover in a criss cross pattern working from the center out . and don't over tighten they only need 7 foot lbs. of torque (10 NM for you metric types).
11 Go have a cold beverage of your choice , YOU ARE DONE !
Linked to Wisdom, Bada-bing, bada-boom.
Thanks, Bro.
Mustang,
Great information. I am just contemplating my 24K service and am thinking of doing the work myself this time as I have a fear the dealer cost is going to be step. The 12K service was something like £490 including taxes :cry: way to much
I've never owned feeler gauges or a torque wrench before.
Would these work?
http://www.autozone.com/R,1300137/store ... Detail.htm (http://www.autozone.com/R,1300137/store,2389/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm)
http://www.autozone.com/R,1397553/store ... Detail.htm (http://www.autozone.com/R,1397553/store,2389/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm)
the feeler gauge set looks good , you really only need the .002, .004 ,.006,..008 and .010 blades and if it has any blades (odd # ) that fall between these sizes it will be more better !
The torque wrench , I don't get a warm and fuzzy over for 22 bucks , you gets whats you pay for I'm afraid,, and a good torque wrench will set you back damn near a hundred bucks !
Thanks for the detailed instructions on setting the valves. You take all the mystery out of this procedure. Will be purchasing the required tools to do the job. Having both a 99TBS and an 02 Tiger, this will save me quite a bit. More money for the adventure of the road less traveled!
I couldn't agree more about a Torque wrench Mustang. I guess you would have to weigh up how many times you would use it. Maybe hire one is an option. For my money I'm buying one as my Tiger is a Keeper and I will save truckloads on having the right tools and doing it myself over the years I intend to keep my Tiger. Thinking of a stripped bolt in there makes me shudder. I have a bigger Torque wrench but it is too big for this job and will get one for the lighter settings, and a tool to assist with the shims.
Are there any pains getting this started? Other than the tank and air box, what else has to come off?
Coils, fan harness, thermostat mount? Can the cooling all stay intact, and just let it hang?
Anything else I should prepare for?
I was going to change the plugs too. Are those easier to install with our without the cam cover?
Unplug the fan wire to get it out of the way, but other than that, the cooling system remains untouched.
Once the battery, battery box, tank, and airbox are off, it's just a matter of pulling the coils and the front airbox bracket (the valve cover won't come out of the frame with that bracket sticking up...
damn stretch, your hairy :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
And scary. :shock:
Cool!
My '01 Girly has almost 35K miles. Recently, I asked the original owner (I bought it from the second owner) about when the valves were last checked. When he told me at 17K, I've been waiting for a good day to do several things at once (fuel filter, spark plugs and valve check) that needed to be done. This afternoon I finally got the time to mess with it.
I thought I'd maybe find a few valves out of spec. All 12 were under the proper clearance. :roll: The intakes were all .02-.03 under the .10mm minimum. The exhaust valves were anywhere from.05 below to .09 less than the .15mm minimum. :shock: I'm wondering what the exhaust valve seats look like on #3 since the clearances were .08 and .06.
I immediately got on the computer and went to Mustang's shim tool page (which I had bookmarked http://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html (http://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html) ) and placed an order. I asked Mustang to please send it out as soon as he could. I got an e-mail back from him this evening that it will go out Priority Mail tomorrow. Thank you Mustang! :D
Now I've got to hunt around town to see if anyone swaps out 25mm shims. I've also may have to hunt up a micrometer since I hear that the Triumph shims from the factory aren't stamped with their thickness. Is this true?
They are marked but the Micrometer is a real good idea cuz half of the shims the markings will be worn off or unreadable .
Your valve seats prolly are fine ...it's when you lift the cam cover and find intakes that are zero clearance that sucks .
I got a steamer (mine :cry: ) in the garage right now that has zero , none , nada zip for clearance on the #1 intakes , plus they are completely out of shim sizes available to shim . Needs a valve job (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/crying2.gif)
Here's a little secret ..........If the shims you pull out of your motor are 2.8 -2.9 mm thick they are prolly the original ones from Triumph !
But if the shims you pull out are 2.1 to 2.2 or less even then you are at the end of the valve or cyl head service life ! :shock:
First, thanks for the great write up.
Valve shims: Is there a good source for shims. I have a 05 Tiger? I wouldn't mind having some on hand before I start. I know I could take the bike apart, figure out what I need, then order some. It would be kinda nice to get it back together the same day. Am I dreaming or are there to many choices? :)
Wow ! that would be a lot of cash there is just too many variables to guess at what you need for shim sizes and enuff to do them would require considerable expense . $$$$$
from the triumph dealers they run anywhere from free , yes some will swap yours for theirs used ones and some shops make you buy new ....new are 5-7 bucks or so each depending where you get them
an average shim job will usually take 4-8 shims and sometimes you get lucky and one that was out of spec will work somewhere else , and sometimes you make the trip to the dealer for some shims .
1st time shim job usually requires a few 2.7 -2.75 shims and a couple of 2.6's
every time after that they usually start getting smaller until you run out of shim sizes .
BTW **** IF I find a valve that is out of spec with too much clearance (seldom hapens but it does ) I will leave it if it is only .05 high or less .
I'm used to those thumpers. With only 4 valves, you need an assortment of 8-10 shims to cover most adjustments. Sometimes you can move them around.
Guess I'll be taking it apart and order as needed. When I checked last winter, I didn't need any. Don't think that will happen again.
cheers
QuoteI have all the cam cover bolts free but the cover won't budge. I've popped it a few times with a rubber mallet and I dare not try to pry it away.
Any hints?
Ha! Never mind... few more taps and it was loose.
Hit it harder .....seriously .
The first time I had my valve cover off I thought it was welded on :shock:
On the right hand side give it a good smack with a rubber hammer , hitting it like you want to knock it to go out the left side .
you will know instantly when it let's go cuz the tone will change from the hit with the hammer .
Once it pops loose remove it out the right side of the bike
That's exactly what happened. Thanks!
Well after running to wally world to get a 3/4 spark plug socket, I got the plugs pulled and shifted the bike into both 5th and 6th gear but it takes an awful lot of effort to turn the rear wheel.
Am I missing something?
Do I need to depress anything to get the feeler gauge under the cam lobe when it's pointed 180 or should it just slide under? I can't get my .10-.15 feeler under any of them, and the tips are .002" smaller than the rest of the blade.
the spec of .10-.15mm is millimeter not inch .
Don't tell anyone :D but for checking the clearances I just use the starter motor :shock:
If the pointy end is straight up the .10 mm feeler should slip right under . If it is not keep trying smaller blades until you find the one that slips under . That will be what you have for clearance . If you have to go smaller than .10 mm to get it under the cam you need to replace shims to get the proper clearance .
I just did one of my tigers today and had to replace shims on 5 intakes . one was at only .001 of an inch and another was zero actually negative .
all of the exhausts were in spec .
I cheated and pulled the bumpstick (cam) to change the shims
***TIP*** : if you cannot get the smallest feeler under a cam lobe see if the shim bucket will spin freely . if it does then you are not at zero but damn close . if it won't rotate you have a valve that is not closing all the way and usually will need a shim that is 4 to 5 sizes smaller to get back in spec
Yeah I'm reading mm. I was just saying my gauges have a the blade tip ground down .002"
Wild. All 12 shim buckets are spinning freely. But my gauges start at .004 - .006mm and it won't slip under any of them.
So I need to go find a feeler gauge set that goes down below .004?
As for turning the engine, I'm having to roll back the rear wheel then roll it forward with momentum to get it to flip to the next lobes, making a me a little nervous about doing this once I get the shim tool mounted. There is danger of striking the lobes against the tool correct?
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Yeah I'm reading mm. I was just saying my gauges have a the blade tip ground down .002"
Wild. All 12 shim buckets are spinning freely. But my gauges start at .004 - .006mm and it won't slip under any of them.
So I need to go find a feeler gauge set that goes down below .004?
As for turning the engine, I'm having to roll back the rear wheel then roll it forward with momentum to get it to flip to the next lobes, making a me a little nervous about doing this once I get the shim tool mounted. There is danger of striking the lobes against the tool correct?
how many miles on the bike ?
yes ideally you want some feelers in the .001 .002 .004 range
keep trying till one slips under that's your clearance
as far as spinning the motor with the wheel practice practice practice , because yes you can strike the tool legs with the cam lobes .
if I have to shim a bunch of valves like today where I had to do 5 out of 6 intakes Ipull the cams it's quicer & easier . If I only need to shim 1 or two valves it is quicker and easier to use the tool. If you pull the cams you do need to now what your doing when you put em bac on because it is real easy to screw up the valve timing
22k miles.
From what I gather from the previous owner this would be the first time the valve clearances have been checked.
And... I am an idiot... in the sense that I assumed twice and checked once. I tried to buy a wide range of feeler gauges, and apparently I bought one that only goes down to .102-.152mm (.004-.006").
Sorry and thank you Mustang. I'll pickup some tighter gauges tomorrow on the way home from work!
Sounds to me like you have some shims to replace .
When the clearances close up some more on the beast it will begin to be hard to start and also will run very poorly for the first 10 minutes or so .
You won't want to ride it like that though because You will burn the valves and be doing a valve job
Correct gauges this time. Double checked each valve.
Exhaust:
.152 - .178 - .152 - .152 - .127 - .152
Intake:
.075 - .076 - .038 - .038 - .063 - .051
So I need one exhaust shim, and all six intake shims correct?
If I understand correctly, before I can even buy the new shims I have to pull the current shims in pairs, measure them (and put them back) so I know what size shim to buy.
So the next steps would be to buy the shim tool and pull each shim and record it's size with a micrometer. Enter those numbers in the worksheet to get my new shim sizes. Buy the new shims, then repeat the process to install the new shims?
That is correct , or pull the cams :shock:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/100_2010.jpg)
look how much room there is when the cam is pulled .
you can get to each shim easily and record the size then go buy /get the right ones .
I have plenty of shims floating around my garage though so I don't usually have to buy many . Also you may be able to use a shim from one position to another , lot's of times you can .
the last bike I did a shim job on I only had to go buy 1 shim even though I replaced 7 of them .
QuoteExhaust:
.152 - .178 - .152 - .152 - .127 - .152
Intake:
.075 - .076 - .038 - .038 - .063 - .051
I like to set the clearance towards the high side , gives you more time for riding and less wrenching between valve adjustments .
those exhausts that are at .152 will prolly be out of spec next time you open her up , and then again they might stay right there .
On my favorite steamer I have only had to shim 2 valves once on the exhausts , the exhaust valves are pretty stable , it's me intakes that always need shimming .
Look how clean that motor is inside ,56k , MOBIL 1 4T always for oil .
Wow that does look easier! Now to go thumb through the service manual and see if I want to to take lots of time with the tool, or with the cams! I haven't yet read through the cam removal / installation procedures.
the tool is awesome for when you only have a couple of shims to do ......but when you have the whole bank of em that need doing it's faster to pull the cam
Quote from: "Mustang"the tool is awesome for when you only have a couple of shims to do ......but when you have the whole bank of em that need doing it's faster to pull the cam
Mustang - I have your tool, but I think I may be in the cam pulling group this weekend. A bunch of mine are wacky. I've pulled shims from over bucket valves, but I've had some trouble trying to get the shims out of the tiger with the valves compressed. I've tried a small screw driver and a flat pick, but I still haven't been able to get a shim to pop off the bucket. Is there a special tool or technique I'm missing for the Hinkle engine?
Quote from: "matttys"Mustang - I have your tool, but I think I may be in the cam pulling group this weekend. A bunch of mine are wacky. I've pulled shims from over bucket valves, but I've had some trouble trying to get the shims out of the tiger with the valves compressed. I've tried a small screw driver and a flat pick, but I still haven't been able to get a shim to pop off the bucket. Is there a special tool or technique I'm missing for the Hinkle engine?
Practice practice practice , tis a bitch aint it ?! Seriously it's get easier the more you do it ! They are a very tight fit to the bucket
put the slot in the shim bucket in such a position that you can get a small jeweler screwdriver tip to wedge in between the shim and bucket then give it a pry , helps if you have one of those magnets on an antenna too to catch the shim when it pops loose .
Also make sure the edge of the tool leg is not pressed up against the shim edge
try rolling the cam lobe past the high point a little bit which lets the bucket start to come back up and will give you a little wiggle room to get a small jeweler screw driver or brass pick into the shim bucket slot .
Keep in mind that pulling the cams is xtra work if you only have 1 or 2 shims to change out . and also don't just yank the cams if you go that route . You need to be on top dead center of #1 when you pull the cams .
It should also be noted that it is real easy to screw up the valve timing by getting 1 or both cams off by 1 tooth on the gear s
Sounds good. I've taken the cams off on my DRZ numerous time for shim under bucket valves, but this is my first multi-cylinder bike. Maybe I didn't have enough leverage on the bucket as I had it in the lowest possible position. I will try again with the shim partially moved out. God knows doing that is better than paying the BMW/Triumph shop $95/hour to do my valves!
Quote from: "Mustang"It should also be noted that it is real easy to screw up the valve timing by getting 1 or both cams off by 1 tooth on the gear s
NOTED!
This warning and reading through the manual last night sent me to buy the shim tool :)
I'm sure the tool will take more time. But I'm also sure the cam pull / reassembly would drive my stress level into the clouds. The manual did a very bad job of helping visualize the cam tensioner, so I can only imagine the fun of pulling and reinstalling it while keeping the cams level and synced.
Maybe next time, but for this go around I'm sticking with slow and steady wins the race.
Cool now you are talking. I have been watching this thread. I bought a tool off Mustang ( quick and painless with ex instructions i might add ) and have a valve service looming. Keep us posted.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Quote from: "Mustang"It should also be noted that it is real easy to screw up the valve timing by getting 1 or both cams off by 1 tooth on the gear s
NOTED!
This warning and reading through the manual last night sent me to buy the shim tool :)
EvilBetty- You're taking the same safe route that I chose. It takes a bit more time if you have several to do, but with less danger of screwing up valve timing or (even more likely) busting off a cam cap bolt.
If anyone needs a Mustang valve shim tool, I'm going to sell mine since I don't put that many miles per year on a bike and my clearances are now in good shape (the couple that are out of spec are set a little on the wide side). If anyone is interested, just PM me. $40 shipped in the US.
Wow I'm putting more thought into pulling the cams!
I fiddled with the shim tool for about 30 minutes today, and it the tool itself works great! (thanks Mustang!), but getting the shims out of the exhaust side has so far escaped me. I can't see what I'm doing + get a pick lined up right to pry up the shim.
I'm guessing the intake side will be easier, and I do only have one to do on the exhaust side... but I think I'm done for the night :)
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Wow I'm putting more thought into pulling the cams!
I fiddled with the shim tool for about 30 minutes today, and it the tool itself works great! (thanks Mustang!), but getting the shims out of the exhaust side has so far escaped me. I can't see what I'm doing + get a pick lined up right to pry up the shim.
I'm guessing the intake side will be easier, and I do only have one to do on the exhaust side... but I think I'm done for the night :)
Haha, that's the boat I'm in right now. I think it was just too cold the day I was fiddling with it and I gave up. I'm waiting for slightly warmer temps to lift my spirits for a second go around. I will also try not having the buckets completely compressed . . . maybe I wasn't able to get enough leverage on the shims with them in that position. Next time will be with just enough clearance to get the shim out.
Got the one exhaust shim out! Just took a lot of poking at it to finally get it loose.
I think I'm going to get this new shim tomorrow before I move forward with the intake shims.
I asked this in another thread too, but what's the best way to remove old silicone sealer from the head / cam cover that won't come off with a scraper? And what brand / type sealer should I use when I go to seal it back up?
Acetone and a rag. Rub rub rub rub...
To reseal, I used Permatex black hi-temp RTV, but any RTV ought to do.
Want to know a secret ? I have NOT used anything on the last 5 motors I've done and none of them have leaked the rubber gasket seals very good .
I found that, on some of the valves, instead of turning the bucket slot to the outside, if you turn it to the inside (just offset of the shim tool legs), it makes it easier to get a pick under the shim and wiggle it out.
Also, a full set of assorted picks (with at least 4) helps a lot. Sometimes one type of pick would work for me when another would not and visa-versa.
Mustang- I wish I'd known earlier that you could skip using gasket sealant on the cover. That stuff is a pain to work with and to clean off later.
Quote from: "DaJudge"Mustang- I wish I'd known earlier that you could skip using gasket sealant on the cover. That stuff is a pain to work with and to clean off later.
The directions with the shim tool say to use rtv sealant to avoid leaks to be on the safe side . That is Triumphs reccomendation ,But if your rubber gasket is good you can get away without the sealant . It also works better to put the sealant on the engine side and not the cover gasket when installing . helps to make it not so messy .
Cool, thanks!
I pulled a couple more shims tonight, then got to thinking about your comments from before.
Quote from: "Mustang"I like to set the clearance towards the high side , gives you more time for riding and less wrenching between valve adjustments .
those exhausts that are at .152 will prolly be out of spec next time you open her up , and then again they might stay right there .
I decided to see if I should replace all of the .152 shims. After playing around with the Valve Adjustment Calculator I noticed that if I go any higher than the mid range shim, it will put the valve out of spec. Ex: going .05 higher on a valve measured at .152 would put the new measurement at .202
Is it better to be .002 over spec than being near the bottom of the scale? Doing the same for the exhaust side would be .006 - .016 higher than spec for the ones I have measured so far.
My Valve Adjustment Calculator
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/ValveAdjustmentcalculator.jpg)
.002 mm is such a tiny amount that I would not think twice about it . even if you have all the valves set to be over the high limit you will be fine they won't make any noise that you can hear and you will prolly not need to set valves for or even check them for at least 20 k more miles :D . Unless you ride for hours and hours at a time in 100 degree weather with the rpm at 7k . if you ride like this you will be doing them again a lot sooner . :evil:
I see what you mean. I also now remember that the feeler gauges we use don't tell you EXACTLY what the clearance is, so making such a fine calculation is impossible unless you have .001 increment feelers. :roll:
Case in point. The VERY LAST valve I had to do was calling for a 2.60 according to my spreadsheet, that would put the new clearance at .101, a 2.55 would put it at .151. Since I had a 2.60 already I thought I'd save myself a trip to the dealer and use it. Since my gauge in that range was a .102, it measured at .076 after the shim change. I went back and swapped it for a 2.55 and now it's measuring at .127, much better. :oops:
Being the perfectionist I sometimes tend to be, I would have rather had accurate measurements of the clearances down to .001 so I could calculate exactly what my new clearance would be with what shim, but I'm guessing this is why there is a .05mm tolerance in the first place.
Anyway, VALVE SHIM ADJUSTMENT DONE! :D
Thanks so much to everyone in this thread. Especially Mustang for great shim tool and helpful advise. If you're ever through Kansas City, beer is on me :)
Just the not so fun part left... Clean, seal, torque, and pray :) Picked up some ThreeBond 1194 I was going to brush on the curved surfaces indicated in the manual. Is this not necessary?
I've read that some folks don't put sealer on the rubber gasket, and have never had a leak. But I sealed my gasket just for peace of mind.
Quote from: "Stretch"I've read that some folks don't put sealer on the rubber gasket, and have never had a leak. But I sealed my gasket just for peace of mind.
:oops: hehehe
We have recently purchased your shim tool. One question is after you have the shims out of the valve can you leave them out to remove the next set, or do they have to go back in only to come out later to replace with the new shim?
I know it's a pain in the ......... but you need to put a shim back in there before you roll the cam lobe over on it or else you could very easily damage the cam lobe or bend the edge of the shim bucket , either scenario is bad .
The next time you have to do a shim job if you recorded the sizes that were in each position it eliminates a lot of xtra work because you already know what shim size is in there .
Thanks for that, glad I asked as this is my first time with getting this deep into the engine and adjustment. I have spent allot of time reading all of the posts and found them to be a great help. I would not have tried this without all of the helpful advice and pictures.
Thanks again for all of the help
I just got done cleaning off all the RTV the factory slopped all over the head, and there is some tiny trace amounts of RTV that flaked off into the pooled engine oil on the head. Do I need to remove all of this or will the oil filter catch it?
My plan was to run the engine for about a tank to catch all the excess dirt / debris and then change the oil.
I would try and soak up the pools of oil with some shop towels and hopefully pick up most of the "debris" with them . I would also run the engine for only a few minutes , not a tankful, and new filter and oil right away .
RTV can be a real problem as it can easily block up oil ways. I couldn't work out why my Velo smoked so much on startup till I found the previous owner had slathered the stuff everywhere and it had blocked the oil drain from the rocker box.
RTV is great stuff but you only need the thinnest smear, and a smear of grease on one of the mating surfaces helps when it's dismantling time.
I got it all cleaned out. Was not near as much there as I thought there was.
I sealed it back up without the sealant. :shock:
Thanks again everyone.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"I got it all cleaned out. Was not near as much there as I thought there was.
I sealed it back up without the sealant. :shock:
Thanks again everyone.
So EB, it appears from your posts that this took you how long? about 5 weeks, is that right?
Not dissing you, just figuring it will take me some time too and I was trying to judge by reading these posts.
Last valves I checked/adjusted were on a 1974 Honda XL 350 in about 1974 and they were not shim over bucket style.
Jeez, seeing that in writing makes me feel so old. :sleepy1
Yes but I really took my time with it. It was the arse of winter and I had it tore apart in my basement working on it as I had time.
It really didn't take more than maybe 8 hours of total work, and that's including all the trial and error and figuring out the process. Next time it will probably take 2 half days (excluding exchanging shims at the dealer) if you have all the other parts and tools on hand.
Just wanted to add one more tip to this great sticky....
Instead if pfutzing with the rear wheel to rotate the cams, it takes all of 30 seconds to remove the inspection cover from the right side crank cover (ee manual pg. 3.7 - camshafts). From there, you just rotate via the crank bolt - one hand, while you're looking down at the cams - 10000000 times easier. Shop manual has you do this when working with the cams.... don't know why they skipped it for the valve work.
And just a vote... I always just pull the cams. Probably burns 30minutes each way (on/off), but it's straightforward, and everything is easy to reach (just follow the manual exactly - especially "notes"; and dont drop stuff into the crankcase). Once off, it's a a magnet and a dental pick, and in 5 seconds, the shim is in your hand. Just personal preference... I hate wrenching when I get frustrated - so I usually take a the longer route if it's a little smoother sailing. (edit: now with Mustangs tool though... not as big of a deal getting ripped by the dealer)
I hope I haven't missed this in the thread, but I found a fairly easy way to remove the shims from their bucket, I use compressed air through a tube type nozzle on the end of valve made to attach to the end of the compressor hose. I direct the air stream at the notch in the bucket used to access the shim with a screwdriver. Some times it just pops right out, other times a takes a while. I try to direct the air so that it eventually flows under the shim and break the suction that holds them in there so well. Hope this helps.
Cool trick, get much oil slung around when you do that? I usually work on my bike in the basement over winter. I have plenty of room and central heat!
I've got lots of things down there I wouldn't want oil blown all over.
Yes, it did sling a little oil. I put a shop rag over the area where the oil pools, this helped. I figure on washing down the motor with S100 when I complete the work.
Valve Clearance Measurement
NOTE : Valve clearances must be checked with the engine cold (no running for 12 hours)
NOTE 2: If you are not very mechanical you should cease at this point and take your bike to the dealer before you screw something up !
I'm very mechanically inclined but something always goes wrong!!!
I just lost my job and do not have the money to take it the dealer. So my choices are:
1. Try to do it myself and be exposed to Murphy's Garage Law
2. Continue to ride a bike I have no history on and 19K miles
3. Ride the wife's KLR
4. Don't ride
Chime in!
Like in your other post, I'm not sure what the question is.
Yes, something always does go wrong, and if you don't have money for tools and parts if something does go wrong maybe you need to wait it out.
The dealer will charge you $400 just to check the clearances.
Mine was ridden to 24k with no check or adjustment. When I checked them all but two were out of tolerances but all were still adjustable.
For all those that have got this far through the thread and have NOT bought the valve tool. You don't have to. You also don't have to remove the cams completely to get the shims out.
All you have to do is remove the cam bearing caps and lift/tilt the cams, from the #1 cylinder end, enough to access the shim you need. There's enough give in everything to do this and it doesn't disturb the cam chain and timing at all.
Sorted and free. :wink:
Quote from: "blacktiger"For all those that have got this far through the thread and have NOT bought the valve tool. You don't have to. You also don't have to remove the cams completely to get the shims out.
All you have to do is remove the cam bearing caps and lift/tilt the cams, from the #1 cylinder end, enough to access the shim you need. There's enough give in everything to do this and it doesn't disturb the cam chain and timing at all.
Sorted and free. :wink:
I hate it when people use logic and cunning to overcome the need for special tools.
Thank you very much!!
Cosmo
Just 1 very important tip to remember ......
The cam caps are not interchangeable and must be replaced the same spot and direction they come off of , and if you screw up a cam cap you now get to buy a 2000 dollar cylinder head as the caps are line bored for each head and not available any other way .
Also should be noted that the caps have no bearings they are the cam bearings and made of aluminum .
:shock:
Just sayin....you decide :D
Mustang, this question may have been asked before. Are there any other motorcycle brand shims that will work in the 955 engine, i.e. kawasaki? My son is currently in South America and may need a shim change and Triumph dealers are few and far between and some don't carry shims (imagine that). Also, would it be possible to have a good machinist grind an existing shim thinner if you put the ground side down in bucket?
Thanks!
Quote from: "NebraskaRat"Mustang, this question may have been asked before. Are there any other motorcycle brand shims that will work in the 955 engine, i.e. kawasaki? My son is currently in South America and may need a shim change and Triumph dealers are few and far between and some don't carry shims (imagine that). Also, would it be possible to have a good machinist grind an existing shim thinner if you put the ground side down in bucket?
Thanks!
Honda and yamahas
click this link for a list of bikes that use the 25mm diameter shims
http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html
and the shims can be ground on a surface grinder as long as not much is coming off and they are not heated up by the grinding
not reccomended but I aint saying I've never done it 8) :oops:
Quote from: "Mustang"Honda and yamahas
click this link for a list of bikes that use the 25mm diameter shims
http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html
Awesome! Seems I have a whole bunch of these 25mm shims, as I own a CBX!!
:lol:
I can probably trade folks if needed. If I recall, mostly 2.70 -> 2.95 range
Quote from: "DaJudge"I immediately got on the computer and went to Mustang's shim tool page (which I had bookmarked http://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html (http://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html) ) and placed an order. I asked Mustang to please send it out as soon as he could. I got an e-mail back from him this evening that it will go out Priority Mail tomorrow. Thank you Mustang! :D
IFirst, thanks Mustang for the great write up!
I tried clicking on that link to order Mustang's shim tool but the link doesn't work.
Help! I took my bike apart to check the valves, on the first nice weekend of the yea,r and I need to replace a few intakes. :BangHead
Click Mustang's WWW button under his post instead. He has a new site.
Thanks
Thanks Mustang, I got your tool two days after I ordered it but I haven't had time, until today, to take the shims out and measure them.
All went well until I started loosening the leg (on Mustang's tool)before I rotated the cam lobe back down to compress the valve, after I took the shim out to measure it. The moment I realized what I was doing the leg slipped off the bucket and it sprung back up. Man I hope I didn't break anything. :BangHead I guess I'll find out after I get the right shims and get her running.
BTW Mustang's tool works great and has great instructions... You just have to follow them...oops
I got a set of assorted picks from sears and I thought the shims (on the intake side) popped out quite easily.
I took a few pics where the feeler gauges go when I measured the clearances last week.
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6471/820290740_zNgp2-L.jpg)
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6472/820290852_TJqk3-L.jpg)
Quote from: "sloburban"All went well until I started loosening the leg (on Mustang's tool)before I rotated the cam lobe back down to compress the valve, after I took the shim out to measure it. The moment I realized what I was doing the leg slipped off the bucket and it sprung back up. Man I hope I didn't break anything. :BangHead I guess I'll find out after I get the right shims and get her running.
You will be fine , if I said I have never done that I would be lying.............
Is there a trick to get the shim back in, or do you have to pull the cams at that point?
I think he had a shim in it just forgot to roll the cam lobe back onto it before he started taking the tool leg off it ........... :oops:
Quote from: "Mustang"I think he had a shim in it just forgot to roll the cam lobe back onto it before he started taking the tool leg off it ........... :oops:
That's exactly what I did Mustang. :lol:
I wonder what would have happened if there wasn't a shim in the bucket.
Well I replaced the three shims that were out of spec, replaced the spark plugs and only put the gas tank back on so I could go for a test ride.
I pushed her out of the garage and started her up...ran great! Cool I'm finally going for a ride!
I ran inside put my boots, helmet and jacket on, explained to my step son how I was going to kick his ass on his cr450r in our next race, came outside and she is running terrible.
It is now running worse than before. When I turned the throttle everything seemed like it was a few seconds behind real time, if that makes sense? I gave it gas nothing happened for a second or two, I let go of the gas and it still revved up for a second or two before idling again. Meanwhile running terrible off idle.
Next suggestion? Carbs?
I already have these...Don't know how old they are.
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/240509502-M/295930315_TkVqM-L.jpg)
Has the bike been sitting all winter ?
Is this the first time you have had it running this spring .If you answered yes to the above questions , take it out for a ride and see if the cobwebs come out after about 10 -20 minutes
lots of times it will
if not you need to pull the carbs and clean the pilots (plugged pilot jets is what will make it run like shit of idle and will also cause the hanging idle cuz it's too LEAN )
and one other thing to consider .............were some of your intakes at zero clearance , if so you really should sync the carbs .......and did you disturb anything on the carbs when you did the valves .
ar eyou running the crappy ethanol blend gas ? if so and it is leftover from the fall you are probably going to be cleaning carbs this weekend .
Oh 1 other thing ..there is no freakin way you are going whoop a CRF450 Honda :shock: :ImaPoser
While a tiger is fun to pretend it can go offroad , the HONDA really can be a hooligan
here's my off road missle that can run the roads too !
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/places/101_1863.jpg)
Thanks for the quick response Mustang!
No the bike didn't sit all winter, not ridden like summer... maybe sat for 3 to 4 weeks at the most. ( is that enough time to cause problems?) It's been gradually getting worse since the middle of winter.
When it started, maybe January, I could barely tell it was running weird, only a small dead spot between 6-7000 RPM's so I put some SEA FOAM in and ran through a full tank. The more I ran it the worse it got.
I guess the carbs are coming off tomorrow.
And BTW I was racing my step son in a parking lot, straight line. We were pretty much neck and neck but no real room to open it up.
When we get into the tight stuff I can always run him off the trail into a ditch :ImaPoser
BTW, no clearances were at zero. The smallest one was .05mm
Here's a couple pics I took. If these pics are clogging up the thread let me know and I'll delete them.
Cam compressing the valve :
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6495/825346060_iUvwK-L.jpg)
Mustang's tool holding the shim bucket down.
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6501/825346300_XTxXc-L.jpg)
A closer view:
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6504/825346360_7466Z-L.jpg)
Prying the shim out of the bucket:
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6508/825346731_ePtrN-L.jpg)
(http://sloburban.smugmug.com/Other/riding/IMG6509/825346918_Z7XVH-L.jpg)
My local mech uses a magnet, surprisingly effective and there's less chance of dropping it.
Dental Pic and a magnet work oh so well together .............. :thumbsup
Just checked mine for the first time and all the valves were right in spec. The bike has 30,000 km on it (15,000 miles) and I don't believe they were ever checked before. The previous owner did not think so but he did have it serviced by a Triumph dealers so who knows.
Is it possible to have a bike still in spec after 18,000 miles?
Sorry I have not been able to use your valve tool yet Mustang. :icon_salut
tett
sloburban, the detail on these are awesome. Really inspiring. Thanks.
Quote from: "tett"Is it possible to have a bike still in spec after 18,000 miles?
tett
very possible.............. depends on how hard you flog the beast
some engines need shims some don't ever seem to need to be shimmed!
In the first pages of this thread, it mentions that you "run out of cylinder service life" when you reach a valve check which requires shims size 2.1 or under? What does that mean? that at one point (100K miles? 200K? how many) you will just have no more shims avaliable from anywhere and the bike will be useless (unless you want to burn your valves)?
(I'm a new Tiger owner, 2000 855i).
Thanks
If you need to go below 2.1 for any valve, you've exceeded the serviceability of the head. You would have to buy a replacement head.
Quote from: "haroldo_psf"In the first pages of this thread, it mentions that you "run out of cylinder service life" when you reach a valve check which requires shims size 2.1 or under? What does that mean? that at one point (100K miles? 200K? how many) you will just have no more shims avaliable from anywhere and the bike will be useless (unless you want to burn your valves)?
It means the valves are worn down and need to be replaced and the seats redone. This is a problem occurring in a series of 98 model Steamers, including mine. Not a big problems in other models as far as I know.
First time it happened on mine was at about 90-95 000km. The valves were replaced and the seat redone in a slightly flatter angle to increase the contact area with the valve. This lasted about 45 000km and I now have the next smallest shims on two valves. I found a used cylinder head from a 95 with 12 fat shims on ebay which is going to replace the existing one. Saved me a lot of bucks this way compared to doing the valve replacement job again.
Dag
Quote from: "blacktiger"For all those that have got this far through the thread and have NOT bought the valve tool. You don't have to. You also don't have to remove the cams completely to get the shims out.
All you have to do is remove the cam bearing caps and lift/tilt the cams, from the #1 cylinder end, enough to access the shim you need. There's enough give in everything to do this and it doesn't disturb the cam chain and timing at all.
Sorted and free. :wink:
As I am broke, I am doing this myself, I like the idea of just removing the caps!
Can anyone share the re-installation order and re-torquing instructions on the caps?
Never mind!
All were within spec'; I have buttoned it back up and "a riding I go"!
I've noticed a drop in MPG: from 42 to 37 in 16,000 miles. Could this have to do with valves? I haven't checked them in 10,000 miles. The bike seems to be just as powerful as it did 16,000 miles ago.
Howdy valve gurus.
I'm a bit corn-fused in that the valves that are out of spec on my '05 Girly are out on the high side....too big of a gap between lobe and shim. Ex. outside exhaust valve is .24mm (spec. range being .15-.20). Am I correct in that EvilBetty's were all out on the low side, too small of a gap? If so, why come?
My measurements for the record:
Exhaust: .24/.19 .19/.19 .22/.19
Intake: .14/.13 .13/.12 .17/.15
Three to reshim for sure, might bring the .15 Intake down a bit as well just to get it closer to mid range of specifications.
Thanks for the great write up guys.
Quote from: "cdubya"Howdy valve gurus.
My measurements for the record:
Exhaust: .24/.19 .19/.19 .22/.19
Intake: .14/.13 .13/.12 .17/.15
Three to reshim for sure, might bring the .15 Intake down a bit as well just to get it closer to mid range of specifications.
Thanks for the great write up guys.
I wouldn't be too concerned about those clearances and would leave them be . I would recheck them in another 6k to 10 k miles and if they are still out of spec on the big side I might reshim them , but they are not that terribly wrong .
It is important that you check them when the motor is stone cold , as in hasn;t been run for 12 hours or more .
Thanks for the reply mustang.
Wow, even the .24? I'm happy bolting her all back up in the morning and not messing with the shims but could you elaborate on why I should not be concerned? I'm trying to gain as much knowledge as possible. I've done two other valve checks/reshims to date and I really enjoy doing the wrenching but I have to admit, I'm not all together clear on the benefits or evils of certain scenarios.
I'm curious: What is to be assumed if valves are out of spec. on the large side vs. too small of a gap side?
Thanks again.
CW
Edit: Bike has not quite 12k miles on 'er and it's plenty cold...woke up to snow this morning. :(
at .24 you are only a little less than .002 of an inch out of spec
a little xtra on the big side won't hurt anything
generally speaking the valves tend to lose clearance on a triumph overhead cam motor
when you have valves that are at zero clearance than there will be a problem, poor running ......burnt valves etc etc
here's a little scenario for ya :
my little brother checked the valves on his 2008 bonneville and was certain he had a couple that had no clearance , he freaked and took it to the dealer to get it reshimmed .
Cost him $350 and the dealer told him that none were out of spec and in fact had one intake that was a little loose , but left it alone
He of course did not believe it and immediately pulled the valve cover off and rechecked them ......................can you guess what he found ?
all in spec just like the shop said .
at.24 you are only at about .009 thousandth's of an inch , really isn't a bad place to be with an exhaust valve due to heat expansion
write down all the valves clearances and in another 10.000 miles check them against your list and see if they have moved .
most people don't even bother checking their valves until they have a problem or at least 20 k and beyond
Okey dokey!
Thanks for the ejumucation Mustang. Back together she goes! Since it is apart, thinking of cleaning up the IACV valve, (she is a bit surgie at idle), balance the throttle bodies if I can figure out how to get fuel to the girl with the tank off, (tricky fitting on end of fuel line). Still milling over taking out the baffle from the air box.
To balance throttle bodies follow instructions elsewhere on here.
Have just a little fuel in the tank. Put it on a table next to the bike on the right at the same height as it would normally be (I use a Black and Decker Workmate but I guess you won't have them in the USA). The stand should be big enough to accomodate the tank without fear of it sliding off. Cut the zip-tie that holds the tank electrics loom to the bike and plug it into the tank. The fuel hose will just reach without any modification. The fuel sensor wire (two pin on the right of the tank at the back) will probably not reach so be prepared for a fault light when you fire her up when you're done. It'll go out by itself after three complete warm up / cool down cycles.
Be very careful with the IACV - they're pricey and I wouldn't touch it unless you're sure it's faulty, which case it needs replacing. You're more likely looking at a leaky air hose or throttle body gasket.
I need a better set of feeler gauges and a better micrometer. I created a spreadsheet in Excel with a simple resolver, but some of the shims in my engine have four decimal places, and my micrometer won't measure to that resolution. It's probably important, because there are 40 different shims available...
For those of you who did measure the shims that were in your engines, what did you use to measure?
And by the way, The Tool That Mustang Built is fabulous. Once a guy gets the hang of it, it's easy sailing.
If you're considering removing the cams, a trick I used to preserve the timing when replacing the lifters on my Saab was to ty-wrap the cam chain to the cams, then release the tensioner. That gave me plenty of room to lift the cams, and saved me having to reset the cam timing. Those marks never line up precisely.
I used a micrometer when I pulled my shim which was marked 2.75. When I measured it I got 2.94 which makes me think I'm not using the micrometer correctly.
assuming its not digital ..........you are reading the wrong mark on the barrel
and if it's digital did you forget to zero the mic when it's closed
Yeah clearly I'm not using it correctly. Yesterday I tried it on a feeler gauge and read it correctly so it must have been a classic off-by-19 error :lol:
Here's your valve clearance charts in MM, so you know what shims sizes are needed after valve clearance check, so no need for Micrometers and vernier gauges. hope this helps you all out.
There is a possibility you probably could get the shims out without using the special tool, as in the old days of suzuki gs range where the shims were ontop of the bucket, and you could prize the bucket down by levering a screwdriver off the camshaft thus pressing the bucket and retreiving the shim by magnet, but you may have to be an octopus :lol:
Hope this helps those that dont know the knowledge.
nice! I modified some spreadsheet for use.... you put in the values you measure, and it'll tell you what size you need to get right in the middle of the range.... one version converted between inches and mm (at the time I had a nice micrometer, but the feeler gauge was in the other standard).
I'll have to dig that one up - might be useful for people. (I think one page was a tiger, another was a bonneville, one for a honda magna.... I used to have more bikes then).
The idea wasn't mine, but the improved formulas and the additions to it were
hello!
i am sending my tiger 955i to get a valve job before 30k miles . i would like to know how many hours the dealer should take to do the job.
ty Max
Quote from: "max montreal"hello!
i am sending my tiger 955i to get a valve job before 30k miles . i would like to know how many hours the dealer should take to do the job.
ty Max
average price for 30k (24k actually )service depends on the dealer , but expect to pay somewhere between 300-500 US dollars
That might be if the valves don't need adjusted. From what I quoted I'd expect more of $800 to $1200. That was why I finally just did it all myself, and I'm glad I did.
The 12K service is probably closer to $500.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"That might be if the valves don't need adjusted. From what I quoted I'd expect more of $800 to $1200. That was why I finally just did it all myself, and I'm glad I did.
The 12K service is probably closer to $500.
Damn I need to charge more :ImaPoser
Quote from: "EvilBetty"That might be if the valves don't need adjusted. From what I quoted I'd expect more of $800 to $1200. That was why I finally just did it all myself, and I'm glad I did.
Thats a lot of money , how can they justify that much??
Quote from: "zombie2"Quote from: "EvilBetty"That might be if the valves don't need adjusted. From what I quoted I'd expect more of $800 to $1200. That was why I finally just did it all myself, and I'm glad I did.
Thats a lot of money , how can they justify that much??
actually quite easy ......
most shops get close to $100 per hour shop rate and an 8 hour job is $800
that's why most shops won't touch a bike that is ten years old . The parts and labor cost is more than the bikes worth a lot of times .
If the owner walks then the shop is left with a bike not worth anything and they are out 8-10 hours labor .
That's parts and labor too. If they do it by the book, and include everything on the checklist $1200 could be pretty accurate, with valve shim adjustments. If they do the coolant too, that's even better :)
I'm not sure how many hours I had in my 24K service. I brought it down into my heated basement over the winter months and worked on it in my spare time. When I ran into a problem, I had time to leave it tore apart while I ran to TigerTriple for advise, had to order a part, or had to swap shims with my dealer.
It was well worth the savings and for what I learned bout the bike. I hadn't ripped into anything beyond belts and alternators on cars in years, and probably hadn't changed my own oil on my cars in a few years before taking this on. It rejuvenated my mechanical abilities, and rose my confidence level, resulting in me working on more and more things myself.
My 1050 is now in pieces in my basement for upgrades (lights, heated gear wiring, etc). The only bad part is waiting on parts from the UK. :cry:
I checked the valves on both tigger and the sprint having never done anything like that before (well, back in college I replaced an engine on a truck myself, but that was it). With some help from the people on this forum it wasn't that hard. A good mechanic who does this for a living should make this job fairly easy and $1200 seems steep, but then the manual does say to yank the cams which is unnecessary if you have Mustang's valve shim tool.
I was always pricing the work at around $350. I like the sound of thinking I saved myself $2k or so.
Thanks you guys! Especially Mustang. Wouldn't have tried it without you.
:lol:
I was quoted $400 for just the valve check and adjustment.
It's time for my 12000 mile servicing but I didn't want to pay somebody to do it.
I checked my valves today and only two valves were out of spec. One intake valve was a little too tight and needed a 2.5mm shim. One exhaust valve was too loose and needed a 2.6mm shim.
The interesting thing was after I changed the exhaust valve shim the clearance is now larger than it was! I didn't measure the new shims because they were marked with their size. Tomorrow, I'll pull out the shim, measure it, and maybe put back the original shim. It was wierd!
Have any of you seen this happen?
EDIT: I found that I had put the 2.50 shim where the 2.60 shim should go and vice versa. Oops! I switched them and the valves look good.
Just got myself a mustang valve tool so ripped into checking the 595 (tiger next up) made the obligatory spread sheet, I know there is a ton out there but I made my own. What had not seen posted before which may be of help is I decoded the Triumph part no for 25mm shims, seems to be T1130 followed by the first 3 digits of the size.
Not checked every one, but all I have checked against Ling part look up is correct. I have listed sizes and part numbers below, link to the parts look up at the end.
Size Triumph Part Number
2.600 T1130260
2.650 T1130265
2.625 T1130262
2.500 T1130250
2.525 T1130252
2.550 T1130255
2.575 T1130257
2.675 T1130267
2.700 T1130270
2.725 T1130272
2.750 T1130275
2.775 T1130277
2.800 T1130280
2.825 T1130282
2.850 T1130285
2.875 T1130287
2.900 T1130290
2.925 T1130292
2.950 T1130295
2.975 T1130297
3.000 T1130300
http://www.lingstriumph.com/triumphcentralApp_core.0.LassoApp?pg=nav§num=f2cfc240cbb78b1c&-session=Triumph:534322E9054cf311F0JSWx318798
Note to self.
Hey the airbox is off. Let's pull the clutch cable and take it to the shop so that I can have some new ones made.
Now, let's dig in to the valves...
Crap. can't change into a higher gear now.
Now I have to wait until Wednesday to get the cables back.
Quote from: cba191 on March 16, 2014, 08:59:29 AM
Crap. can't change into a higher gear now.
Now I have to wait until Wednesday to get the cables back.
Know that feeling :augie
Quote from: cba191 on March 16, 2014, 08:59:29 AM
Note to self.
Hey the airbox is off. Let's pull the clutch cable and take it to the shop so that I can have some new ones made.
Now, let's dig in to the valves...
Crap. can't change into a higher gear now.
Now I have to wait until Wednesday to get the cables back.
If you mean so you can turn the engine via the back wheel, why do you need the clutch cable?
Just that I can't get it into anything higher than 2nd. Maybe getting it off the stand will let me do it.
You should be able to change right through the box if you move the back wheel backwards & forwards while you put pressure on the gear lever.
"Mole-grips" can be a good friend in a garage, if all else fails :)
Quote from: v8er6.6 on March 17, 2014, 02:06:45 AM
"Mole-grips" can be a good friend in a garage, if all else fails :)
Not on your brake pistons :nono
I once rode my old BSA C15 home using a pair in place of a rear brake lever :augie