so I'm heading home and the bike just dies...well actually I noticed the tach stopped working, I was runnign my off road lights and heated grips so I shut those off but not much further dead....
tried to jumpstart....bike fired up and ran...then died
so I hope its just an old dead battery, and not a electrical problem as described elsewhere on the site
I think Ineed to do the charging system mod...
I got @2 volts out of mine. :D Went from 12.8 to 14.7. Sounds like you may have another issue with your Reg Rectifier or stator though. Have you kept your battery top charged this winter on a tender? That could be the issue also. Go here for a troubleshooting chart, charge your battery up 1st and see what it does with a multimeter on it with the bike running:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.php (http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php)
www.regulatorrectifier.com (http://www.regulatorrectifier.com) sells both parts as well as Ricks and electosport, change out both if you find one bad. If you don't have a maint manual, PM me and I'll help if I can.
Hope it is just the battery.
Cleav
PS, I may have a new in box Datel volt meter for sale after I see how my passport 8500 works as a volt meter (It'll read batt voltage on the screen and alert @11v for dropping voltage) Nice to see what the charging is doing realtime to avoid being stuck in BFE.
thanks, I hope it ws the battery, I put it on a charger ove night and it barely light up the next day...
went and spent the cash on a new battery and we will see ho it does..
I need to hook my passport up and see how it does battery gauge as well.. need to find a decent mount
I'm going to check it against my Fluke on the battery since I have it going through a switched power supply, I'm sure I'll loose a little bit of accuracy.
I had a similar problem with my 99er, occasionally it would just die then start again. Then one cold day with lights and heated grips on it died, then attempted to start then nothing.
Thinking it was the battery I changed it, still nothing. Long story short - it was wire from the clutch switch that also links into the horn.
You could get continuity from the switch to the connector block and thats what threw me.
With the cockpit off I checked between the switch and the main harness connector - it was dead.
The core had broken inside the insulation where its crimped on the part that goes to the bars.
Any use?
I did post a picture of the offending item on Triumphrat in a thread by Sofalofa (starter motor 2005 tiger) on the 22/12/07, page 3 dated 28/2/08
Also check the wires coming out of the ignition switch on the top clamp. I remember hearing of a couple guys who have had wires break.
bike fired up fine with new battery...
heres hoping its just that..not charging system
and then the bike died again...
looks like I have whatever that problem is...gotta go search now
Run a voltmeter across the battery poles when the bike is running. At the very least, it ought to read 13.0 VDC
and if it doesn't?
I'm about to test the stator and the regulator/rectifier to see what they read as well..
That does sound as if it might be a broken wire
I get nothing at the battery with it running, constant loss
countdown timer.....11.7 11.6...11.5
ouch
Stator and Regulator / Rectifier. Again.
WTF...
this bike had 2500 miles on it when I bought it now has less then 10,000 but still it was liek new...
so a stator and regulator is only good for 9,000 miles?
I put 20,000 on my sprint with no issues
and this bike even had the service bulliten update performed on it..where thyey clip the wire on the regulator and do somethign with it...
( did youknow that at one point they put a service bullitin out? My vin was affected, my delaer looked it up for me)
just pissed I'm about to drop almost 300 on a bike with less then 10,000 miles and i put 80% of thoe miles on it in the last few months.
so should I even bother to test anythign else?
what wire shoudl I probe to check the stator to see if its putting out?
Stretch, shame your not closer to me in Georgia, you could probably do this in your sleep...
feel like a ride to Augusta?
First off, make sure the charging system fuse (#2) isn't blown. If you've done the Sasquatch Voltage Fix, check that fuse instead (as the Fix bypasses Fuse #2).
If it's okay, either the Stator or R/R is shot. And when one goes, it usually spikes the other. The odd thing is, they may statically test okay, but won't actually work on the bike. Make it easy on yourself and replace them both at once.
Check your PMs for a phone number.
FUSE?
SOnafa....
I can hear fingers crossing from here...
Fuse blown, fuse replaced, putting out 13.5 V now....
I still need to do the sasquatch mod...
THANKS
No sweat.
Now you need to find out why it blew.
heated grips on High and 2x KC Daylighters?
like I said was bebopping home and the tach went off...the rest was down hill
what else could cause it to blow?
Oh and my check engine light is still on.... shoudl go off after a few cycles?
That may well have done it, especially at idle, when the alternator is scarcely delivering enough voltage and amperage to keep up with those big, powerful lights. If you're going to run high-drain accessories (such as big lights), you really ought to install a voltmeter to keep track of what's going on in the Electrical Room.
The CEL should cycle off after a couple more cool-downs.
yep....gauge is on my list , pls sasquatch mod...
that and I was told my rear tailights are not too bright when on, better when brakes are on but just running dim...
Quote from: "Stretch"No sweat.
Now you need to find out why it blew.
and maybe take the new battery back for refund?
well the new battery works great now...
I've replaced the fuse ( should have checked that first I feel soo stupid, rookie mistake)
check engine light went out...
so tonight is sasquatch mod and we will see how it goes on my ride tomorrow
wonder where I could find a battery gauge in a store to use on my ride?
can't really leve my multi meter hooked up
Ok so sasquatch mod complete, only got a high of 13.8 after wards..but hey
and I'm removing the kc daylighters they suck wayyyyy tooo much power..
proably the cause of all my drama, but they do look cool!!
with them on the voltage dropped fast down to 12 almost with the heated grips on alone it barely dropped to 13.5 or so...so I'm not nervous using those...
Good news!!! Nice work guys!
Cleaver
:D :D :D
did almost 200 miles today with the grips on almost all day, no issues, so all is fizex, thanks for all the help...
I still need to find a volt gauge, and maybe a temp guage brrr it was cold today in the AM
I was hesitant to wear my electric liner with recent problems.
An electric liner pulls a lot less than a pair of KC's. My jacket, gloves, and grips all together pull less than 15 amps, while a pair of KC's may pull over 20, depending on the wattage of the bulbs.
I have a pair of 100-watt KC's on my truck, and they'll pop a 15-amp fuse in just a few minutes... 100 watts divided by 12 volts = 8.3 amps each.
With about 35 amps total available from the Tiger's alternator, you're going to have to decide which accessories to run at any given time, as the electrical system won't supply enough for everything at once.
Regulator, with your cold weather gear ON your battery probably never gets charged up properly, and then next time you start the bike with a low battery, etc, in a downward spiral. In this situation I would plug in a trickle charger each time I park it, to make up the deficit.