I am in the final stages of reassembling my Girly after 5 months of having it apart. I've cleaned the whole thing, shimmed the valved, new brake pads, oil, coolant, suspension oil, made it shiny and added a bunch of goodies. . . headlight cut out, HID driving lights, Datel, Stabel air horn with the compressor under the tail light, AP2 fuse panel, extra accessory plugs, TT racks and I'm set up to test the voltage mod once I get the bike running again.
Now my question is after having the bike apart for all these months: When I am reassembling the air box and gas tank, are there unused wiring harness connectors between the air box and cylinder head? I located the two connectors (one on each side of the bike that connect to the gas tank), but still have two that are underneath the air box and do not look like they connect to anything. Should these be connecting to something or is the Tiger wiring harness shared with other bikes that may use these connectors.
Thank you for the help guys. . . expect a bike report soon!
One electrical plug goes to the Inlet Air Temperature Sensor in the airbox.
The other one (the shorter of the two) does not connect to anything.
Dig it... http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5146 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5146)
Cool - thanks for the help. I remembered the "how to remove your tank thread" but didn't realize there was also an air box thread.
I will investigate when I return home and will report back.
Thanks Strech!
OK, I'm having a few issues. . .
1) Metal fuel fittings are leaking. I think they are leaking from the threads where they were installed into the metalic housing.
2) Bike ran for a few minutes, then died and now will not restart. I'm not really sure what is going on here. Fluids are all topped off and all the connectors are connected (I think).
3) Does the connector below connect to anything? It is on the left side of the cylinder head.
There is also another connector on the right of the cylinder head (which Stretch identified above) as well as one directly under the battery that are no connected to anything. The one below the battery and the one above the cylinder head look like they should connect, but both are on short lead and would have to be woven through the throttle bodies.
(http://matttys.smugmug.com/photos/499552841_bnKto-M.jpg)
On top of the valve cover there should be 6 plugs that you messed with during the maintenance.
The 3 coil plugs, but those look plugged in.
The cooling fan connection
The air box connection.
And the then unused emissions plug...
The only one I can think of under the battery that maybe loose is your fuel pump harness which may have fallen down there.
I too am having a problem with my metal fuel fittings leaking again, but after installing a new one it is just barely leaking. I'm wondering if they need to be installed tighter, but I reluctant to try for obvious reasons. I put a good coat of ThreeBond 1194 on the threads. I tried using the spay foot powder trick but it's not leaking enough to really tell where it's coming from before I call it a night. When I get up the dark patch is around the whole area.
I'm thinking about using pipe thread sealant with PTFE, but I'm not sure how that will hold up to the fuel. Will report back tomorrow as well.
Quote from: "matttys"I'm thinking about using pipe thread sealant with PTFE, but I'm not sure how that will hold up to the fuel. Will report back tomorrow as well.
This stuff works.......
http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml (http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml)
just don`t use to much and block yer fuel system :oops:
KK
Quote from: "KuzzinKenny"This stuff works.......
http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml (http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml)
just don`t use to much and block yer fuel system :oops:
KK
Good thing I work for an industrial distributor with 35,000 products right outside my office. I'll see if Hylomar can do the trick.
Hylomar and chlorinated solvents seem to have done the trick.
Now I need to figure out why my check engine light is on. Is the easiest way to determine the fault simply to go to the dealer and have them hook up the diagnostic tool? Is the 02 Girly that advanced?
Quote from: "matttys"Now I need to figure out why my check engine light is on. Is the easiest way to determine the fault simply to go to the dealer and have them hook up the diagnostic tool? Is the 02 Girly that advanced?
You can do the above
OR
Run it through 3 complete heat cycles - that should clear any faults. If that doesn't clear it you have a problem. Sometimes disconnecting the battery can cause a fault.
Quote from: "Bruincounselor"Run it through 3 complete heat cycles - that should clear any faults. If that doesn't clear it you have a problem. Sometimes disconnecting the battery can cause a fault.
Took it to the dealer and paid the shop guy $10 under the table to slip me in on a Saturday afternoon to run the fault codes. Nothing out of the ordinary. . . I think the battery went low and tripped a code. The tech was saying that it takes 40 on/off cycles to clear the codes. Go figure.
Bike is mostly back together now and is running without a major problem. Charging system is at 12.5 or so on the street so the final mod is the voltage fix. Bike report to follow.
Quote from: "matttys"The tech was saying that it takes 40 on/off cycles to clear the codes. Go figure.
I call bullshit.
Rant on: The tech got his cash - I wouldn't trust him EVER again (he knows he lied to you or is incompetent to put your side stand down). This is one of the problems with American society, inability to think long term.
Rant off.
I hope you have another choice for Triumph service and parts.
Have a nice day!
PS - Checked your website, you are obviously quite talented with both latex and wrench. Way Cool :occasion14
Quote from: "Bruincounselor"Quote from: "matttys"Now I need to figure out why my check engine light is on. Is the easiest way to determine the fault simply to go to the dealer and have them hook up the diagnostic tool? Is the 02 Girly that advanced?
You can do the above
OR
Run it through 3 complete heat cycles - that should clear any faults. If that doesn't clear it you have a problem. Sometimes disconnecting the battery can cause a fault.
To clarify .. EVERY time you disconnect the battery you are going to get the Check Engine Light. The Light will clear after threes warm/cool cycles.. IE the bike has to actually Cool all the way down... as said if after that the light stays on a code has been triggered....just to clarifyu
Quote from: "Bruincounselor"Quote from: "matttys"The tech was saying that it takes 40 on/off cycles to clear the codes. Go figure.
I call bullshit.
Rant on: The tech got his cash - I wouldn't trust him EVER again (he knows he lied to you or is incompetent to put your side stand down). This is one of the problems with American society, inability to think long term.
Rant off.
I hope you have another choice for Triumph service and parts.
Have a nice day!
PS - Checked your website, you are obviously quite talented with both latex and wrench. Way Cool :occasion14
While it only takes three heat cycles to
Turn off the check engine light , as long as it does not encounter any faults during the three heat cycles .
the fault codes are stored in the computer memory and could well take 40 cycles with no faults of any particular fault code before it is erased from memory or reset by the scan tool . Fault codes caused by a faulty component , like O2 sensors , lean burn codes etc. etc .
correct...
I should have been clearererer.. .:D with an IF there are no other problems...
IE the computer still shows(ed) the temp sensor having been reported as AWOL, even though my light had cleared... and in this case the temp sensor had been behaving long enough to allow the light to clear.
I would ASSUME that if a fault conditions continues to exist the light will stay on... that the computer would clear after 40 makes sense.. if after 40 cycles the issue doesn;t reappear then it would be logical to assume the condition no longer exists...
thanks for calling me on it...... :D
Quote from: "JasonS"To clarify .. EVERY time you disconnect the battery you are going to get the Check Engine Light. The Light will clear after threes warm/cool cycles.. IE the bike has to actually Cool all the way down... as said if after that the light stays on a code has been triggered....just to clarifyu
I've had my battery pulled 3 times... never had a check engine light come on.
Quote from: "Mustang"While it only takes three heat cycles to Turn off the check engine light , as long as it does not encounter any faults during the three heat cycles .
Exactly. This is a bike that didn't have any fault codes before disassembly and likely didn't pick up any except the disconnected battery code (voltage? I forget what it's called) that most of us will agree is hit or miss for some reason.
My wrench would have told me to hang onto my cash and try to clear the codes with heat cycles first. He knows I'll spend that $10 with him later because I trust him to have my best interests at heart. YMMV.
I would'nt have spent the money either , as it is common knowledge about the three heat cycles shutting off the light , but the codes do not clear in the computer just because the light went out . they stay in memory and can be read by the scanner , it's how techs will know when there has been an issue even when there is no check engine light , after the codes have been retrieved the scan tool will clear the memory :wink:
I think the $10 was money well spent. Remember that I did call them on at 11am on a Saturday morning and they were able to hook the tool up by 12:15pm. Without knowing that it could just be a low voltage or battery fault I think the money was justified.
I did extensive electrical work to the bike and was a bit worried that I may have screwed something up. Piece of mind to have the fault cleared and to know my bike was just fine would have been worth 3 times as much as I spent. Just my opinion.
Quote from: "Bruincounselor"PS - Checked your website, you are obviously quite talented with both latex and wrench. Way Cool :occasion14
Thank you for the compliments. In this economy my business is down about 40% over last year. Generally I would piss and moan about this, but now that I have a 'real' job and get some spare time to spend on my hobbies I'm not too bummed out.
Quote from: "matttys"I think the $10 was money well spent. Remember that I did call them on at 11am on a Saturday morning and they were able to hook the tool up by 12:15pm. Without knowing that it could just be a low voltage or battery fault I think the money was justified.
I did extensive electrical work to the bike and was a bit worried that I may have screwed something up. Piece of mind to have the fault cleared and to know my bike was just fine would have been worth 3 times as much as I spent. Just my opinion.
For 10 bucks ya done good !
Nothing like a warm and fuzzy feeling
:D