Can someone tell me the proper way to burp my coolant system ?Flushed and refilled w/ new coolant....also changed my fuel line/tank fittings w/ the Team Triumph ones :). Thanks for all that reply !
No doubt others will have views, but I found it straight forward (maybe I was just lucky?)
After re-tightening the hose used to drain down, I removed the filler cap and bleed screw from the thermostat housing just to the rear of the filler cap. Fill her up slowly and patiently, allowing the coolant to trickle down at it's own pace, gently squeezing the hoses to displace air. Once squeezing causes the coolant to splash out of the filler, put the cap back on (leave the screw out for now) and squeeze a few more times. Keep removing the cap and adding more coolant, replacing the cap and squeezing, until you can't get any more in and coolant is also splashing out of the bleed screw hole. Replace the bleed screw and filler cap and fill the header tank to the marked level and you're done. Start her up, let her run for a minute or two and check for leaks; if all's well take her for a short run, then keep an eye on the level for a day or two till you're sure everything is as it should be.
Thanks Bob
I did as you said ( before you responded ) except I did not open the bleed screw on top of the houseing.I then filled the expansion tank between low and high marks.Took her for a spin and she drank some coolant ( down to alittle below the low mark ). I just got through topping her off.Is there something I should do before I ride her again ?
Nope. Just keep an eye on that level the next couple of times you take her out - until she settles down....
I'm finally getting around to doing this... one question... you take the hose off that goes into the water pump and drain the old coolant that way?
Thanks!
Is there any reason to flush / fill a coolant system, outside of having other symptoms?
I mean if the bike is running at normal temperature, the level is within tolerances, and the fluid is not showing signs of rust... is there any preventative reason to do this?
I heard people say that dealers are recommending a flush and fill every 10k. This seems like getting your oil changed every 1K when the owners manual says every 10K.
There is no mention in the owners manual, service manual, or scheduled maintenance forms that I can see that recommends a fluid flush / change of the cooling system. Just checks.
I can't say for sure without looking it up, but I seem to remember the inhibitors that stop the coolant attacking the alloy that your engine is made from lose their effectiveness after a couple of years so that's why it needs changing. When you think of the small cost, it's not worth risking damage to your motor / radiator for a few dollars eh?
If this was on any of the cars I've back-flushed I'd agree, but from the posts I've seen this coolant system is finicky and very hard to purge of air. So if there is not a reason to do it, I rather not bother a working system.
I'll go Google the inhibitors and additives.
Man... a lot of misinformation on the topic out there.
This seemed the most accurate.
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairq ... 011_1.html (http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/fluids_heat_air_conditioning/ques011_1.html)
Quote from: "EvilBetty"If this was on any of the cars I've back-flushed I'd agree, but from the posts I've seen this coolant system is finicky and very hard to purge of air. So if there is not a reason to do it, I rather not bother a working system.
I haven't ridden my Tiger more than 100 miles since April because of this very issue. Don't mess with it or you may be sorry... like me. I've been riding the DR650 since and frankly I just don't feel like wasting another whole dam day on that fooking Tiger coolant system. :roll: Wish I'd never changed it in the first place. :cry:
Quote from: "FullMonte"Don't mess with it or you may be sorry... like me.
I haven't had any problems doing my cooling system. Did it the same way I've done all my bikes: bleed, insert coolant, squeeze hoses, let sit over night with cap loosely on, squeeze some more, go ride. No real issues. I just take this bike as one that will run hot depending on riding conditions.
I've been inching on uphill sloped roads in 100 degree traffic, and though I was about to die, the bike was sitting half-way on the temp gauge. It may be unrelated, but it worries me to induce a cooling system related problem by performing a cooling flush / fill.
On the other hand I really don't want my block eaten alive by bad coolant either. I think I'm going to get one of those Antifreeze pH dropper tube things and see how it's looking.
My 05 has totally died due to suspected charging issues brought about by overheating. This happened since moving to our nation's wonderful capitol, where I'm in Beltway traffic 45+ minutes daily in 1st and 2nd gear.
1. Purchase & install voltmeter
2. Sasquatch fix
3. Flush & replace coolant: every time that fan comes on at low rpms, it drains battery power. My gauge, like yours, was reading at the middle.
4. ...add'l steps as needed (hopefully NOT replacing regulator etc.).
YMMV
I'm scratching my head a bit here.... I drained and filled my Tiger with no probs; just took it easy and patient till all the air was out - and it wasn't that finnicky. I just used a smallish funnel which meant I filled it fairly slowly allowing the air to escape as I went, as I described elsewhere.
Next, it seems there are some cooling probs that are not fill-related. If you're struggling to keep it cool in traffic (fan coming on is normal and temp should stabilise about half way up the gauge) then either the rad is blocked - unlikely if the coolant is changed regularly and if it's clear blue (assuming your antifreeze is blue like mine) when you drain it the rad shouldn't be blocked - or the fins of the rad are blocked with crud. If it's internal blocking, backflush it, if it's external blocking blow from back to front with and airline to dislodge the loose dirt, then lots of water - again from the back - at low pressure until the dirt is good and soft then work it through with a stiff paintbrush. Easier off the bike, as you can soak it to soften the dirt, but can be done on bike if it's not too bad.
Finally, if your fan running messes up your charging system that's another issue entirely.... there's many more know more than me on that subject...
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Man... a lot of misinformation on the topic out there.
This seemed the most accurate.
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairq ... 011_1.html (http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/fluids_heat_air_conditioning/ques011_1.html)
Good work EB, I had a quick look around and concur.
EB does the legwork so you don't have to!!! :lol:
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Finally, if your fan running messes up your charging system that's another issue entirely.... there's many more know more than me on that subject...
If you are sitting stuck in traffic at idle and the fan comes on, you won't be getting much out of the charging system so you will see a Voltage drop because the battery is supplying the power rather than the alternator. Volts should get back to normal when the engine is spooled up and the charging system starts working.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"If it's internal blocking, backflush it, if it's external blocking [do all this other stuff...]
Erm. Yes. I'll be getting to all that as best I can. A constraint here is that everything I'm doing to the big lug is happening in a leased parking space in my apartment building's garage, without access to water or electricity. Most of my tools went after the divorce and subsequent moves, too. This is a pretty bare bones operation--a couple steps up from the side of the road, but not more than a couple.
For dealing with the radiator, my present plan is to:
drain the system as best I can
refill with 1 part water 1 part white vinegar (both distilled)
reinstall the battery and tank
hope the new battery will run the f*cked charging system for a few minutes to circulate the hopefully cleansing solution
remove tank, battery, etc. and drain once more
refill with Engine Ice (I think 2.8 liters is the capacity) slowly, as advised herein
replace the battery and tank etc. to the point where the thing can be started again
top off in the overflow tank & hope for the best. Ta-da!
I know the charging issues don't directly stem from the cooling situation. However, it can only help the system to minimize the amount of time the fan is on while I'm stuck in traffic--that's my theory. I don't see this as a fix to the charging woes; just an environmental kind of "what the hell, I have the friggin' tank off anyway" sort of thing. :-)
Sorry RG, it's easy to forget we're not all lucky enough to have the stuff most of us take for granted.
If you've got the tank off and you suspect the rad is blocked, in or outside, you're probably going to need to remove it then you can clean it thoroughly in the shower / bathtub / whatever (you said you were divorced so I'm guessing you don't have the disadvantage of "you're not bringing that in here..." conversations.
As I think Evil Betty said, backflushing (running water the wrong way through the rad) is best. You could use the bottom rad hose and a tap (fawcet I think you call them).
Good luck!
Not really a solution to any problems mentioned here, but something to watch out for... I almost f'd it up.
If you screw around with the overflow tank... cleaning whatever... make sure when you re-assemble, the little hose inside the tank is connected to the top fitting when everything is said and done. Otherwise, you'll bleed off overflow, but suck back in air on the reverse cycle.
Not sure how big of a deal it would be but I almost did it by mistake.
Quote from: "chilly"Not sure how big of a deal it would be but I almost did it by mistake.
It's a big deal. You end up losing most of the coolant from the engine but you don't know (other than from the temperature gauge) as the level in the overflow looks OK.
[quote="ridin gaijin]...drain the system as best I can
refill with 1 part water 1 part white vinegar (both distilled)
reinstall the battery and tank
hope the new battery will run the f*cked charging system for a few minutes to circulate the hopefully cleansing solution
remove tank, battery, etc. and drain once more
refill with Engine Ice... [/quote]
Caution: You won't be able to drain 100% of the vinegar solution. Best to flush with water next. (I'm assuming that vinegar remaining in the block is a no-no.) After the water flush water will remain in the block also. If you fill with 50/50 mixture the end solution will be less than 50/50. Theoretically you should fill with 2.8/2 = 1.4 liters of 100% antifreeze and the remaining volume fill with distilled water. I have not ever been able to fill with the published capacity. Others have reported that removing the bottom hose connection will drain the maximum volume, but still not the published volume. A forum search will yield a few very informative threads on the topic.