Hey guys, I just got done installing new spark plugs and when I went to tighten the bolts that hold the coil packs in place a couple of them kept spinning. I took the bolts out, threads in the hole and on the bolt look fine, but why won't they tighten?
I did drop a dab of high-heat thread-locker on them and just got them to the snuggest position I could find.
Did they run 2 different sizes? or is this a magnesium alloy thing?
Odd.
Having stripped one of mine without trying, I suspect they strip the threads rather easily.
I replaced spark plugs today and had one of the little springs inside the plug boot come uncoiled/stretched out. The other two came off fine and the little spring inside the boot stayed compressed/coiled within the boot, however with that one, the spring was stretched out. I put the new plug in and re-attached the plug boot/coil pack assembly and test rode the bike with no noticeable negative issues.
Has anyone else experience this and had a negative outcome, or a positive outcome as I seemed to have had?
Quote from: "Danny955i"Hey guys, I just got done installing new spark plugs and when I went to tighten the bolts that hold the coil packs in place a couple of them kept spinning. I took the bolts out, threads in the hole and on the bolt look fine, but why won't they tighten?
I did drop a dab of high-heat thread-locker on them and just got them to the snuggest position I could find.
Did they run 2 different sizes? or is this a magnesium alloy thing?
Odd.
I think it is caused by two things...the magnesium valve cover, and the torque specification in the Triumph. It is too high, IMO, for the magnesium valve cover these bolts go into. It might be okay if the cover was steel, but it ain't, and it costs about $400 for a new cover.
I know this because when I did my valves, I stripped the threads in the valve cover on the first bolt I put back in. Sounds like you've done the same.
The good news is there's a more threaded area in the valve cover holes than is used by the coil pak bolts. I bought the next size longer bolts and there was enough thread to get a good grip in the hole that I stripped. When I tighten them now, I do it by feel (I don't use the torque wrench).
Guys, what you need is one of these (but check the actual thread size first, obviously)...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-6MM-HELICOIL-T ... 2c4ffe3505 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-6MM-HELICOIL-THREAD-REPAIR-KIT-INSERT-NO-M5-M8-M10_W0QQitemZ190320620805QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item2c4ffe3505)
In aircraft engineering we use them all the time. They really are easy to use and do a lasting repair. I'd recommend trying out on a piece of scrap first if you've not done one before though. When I get a chance to take some pics I'll write something for the "Wisdom" thead.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=48fc2s
(http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/threaded/92070a120_fam.gif)
I like these better and they work better than heli coils , they give you a permanent steel thread repair that lends itself to fastening and unfastening repeatedly . unlike heli coils which sometimes will unwind the spring out of the thread .
I have used these on machine tool and fixture repairs where ham fisted operators always overtighten or strip things out . they are a permanent repair .
I have had very few failures with Helicoils over the years doing them myself. Often I put them in with thread lock, which technically shouldn't be necessary. The key is getting a good smooth thread to put them into, easier said than done given often I have had to do it in situ on marine equipment, Italian hydraulic pumps are a favourite :roll: .
That's a good link Mustang, I haven't come accross those before, found the Alcoa catalogue (http://www.newmantools.com/keysert/Keysert_BrochureNT.pdf) found a UK supplier (http://www.specialty-fasteners.co.uk/index.php) thanks.