Remove your tank. (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,32393) <-- CLICK
Remove your air box (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5146) <-- CLICK
Buy a Carbtune (http://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbdtls.html) <-- CLICK
Make Fuel Line Extensions (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6321&highlight=extensions) <-- CLICK
All tore down...
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1528.jpg)
Taking care not to get any debris in your intakes, clean up around the Idle Control Valve and vacuum lines.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1529b.jpg)
Remove the two screws that secure the ICV (Torx 25) and remove the 3 vacuum lines from the throttle bodies. Mine was filthy. This might be a good time to tear it down and clean it up. (Don't forget the gasket when you reassemble).
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1530.jpg)
Cut what zip ties you need to from the fuel rail to allow the fuel pump connection to reach your tank of the side of the bike.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1532.jpg)
If you're setting up your Carbtune for the first time, cut 10cm off the end of each of the vacuum hoses. Cut the clear or white restricter tube into 4 equal sections, then use the four restricter tubes to splice the vacuum lines back together.
Connect 3 of the vacuum lines to the ports of the throttle bodies (you don't need the adapters) making sure to put the restricter ends on the throttle body side.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1537.jpg)
Connect the 3 vacuum lines to the Carbtune, and hang the Carbtune from the clutch side handlebar using the included removable zip tie. Make sure to connect the #1 line to the #1 TB, which is on clutch side of the bike.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1536.jpg)
Reconnect the battery to the bike.
Position the fuel tank at the height it would normally be mounted on the bike. Situate it where you can connect the fuel lines and fuel pump connection. make sure the tank isn't touching any parts of the bike that might get hot. I used a bar stool.
Connect the fuel and pump connections.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1531.jpg)
The triumph manual states you should use your "free hand" to keep the idle speed at 1200 RPM during calibration. Get yourself a cruise control o-ring...
http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... se+control (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4599&highlight=cruise+control)
Start the engine and let it warm up a minute or two. Set your idle speed to around 1200 RPM using the o-ring or other farkle. If your gages look like this (readings are not even) continue on.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1535.jpg)
After the bike is warmed up and engine speed is holding fairly steady, begin making adjustments on TB #2 using the TB #2 Set screw.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1537b.jpg)
I had to use a finger from my other hand to support the back of the set screw while I made adjustments to keep from disrupting the throttle setting and reving or killing the bike.
Try to match up the reading on TB #1 and #2 first. Then make adjustments to #3. You'll notice that when you change #3, it affects 1 and 2 as well. It takes a little trial and error.
When you have them all nice and even, rev the engine a couple of times then wait a few seconds to verify the setting is still correct.
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN1542.jpg)
Shut down the engine, remove your cruise farkle, disconnect all the tank extensions (you may make a bit of a fuel mess at this point) and then reassemble the bike.
Before...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irm-ca6HGt4
After
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGJTeSFKuLI
Great post!
Linked to Girly Wisdom.
Excellent Post!! I'm surprised how for your's were off, mine varied by a few mm prior to adjustment. Carbtune works great eh?
good job,
Great post. Is carbtune setup available for rent? Or where can I get my paws on one? Will a synchronizing tool for balancing dual webers on a VW work? Looks to me like it might?
Great job E.B.!! Thanks for the post.
very nice...now you need to bring that all up to North KC, or I will ride down south to do the same to mine one of these days! :D
Quote from: "TheMule"Excellent Post!! I'm surprised how for your's were off, mine varied by a few mm prior to adjustment. Carbtune works great eh?
good job,
Bike is now at 25k, and the origional owner had never had the TB's serviced. Hoping after I get the TOR tune done the throttle hessitation will now be fixed!
Quote from: "brad1098"Great post. Is carbtune setup available for rent? Or where can I get my paws on one? Will a synchronizing tool for balancing dual webers on a VW work? Looks to me like it might?
Considering having the dealer do the tune is over $200... it's worth buying the gauges in my opinion. Now I can do it every 5K for free... the gauges already paid for themselves in the first use.
They are $107 dolloars from Morgan (see link above) shipped with the nice canvas case.
Quote from: "jsingraham"very nice...now you need to bring that all up to North KC, or I will ride down south to do the same to mine one of these days! :D
You have a 2006, so I'm not sure how the fuel line and pump connections would extend. I know most 2006 and up bikes have the newer returnless fuel system and have a completely different fuel connector. Otherwise bring it on down some time and we'll get it done.
Wow E.B. I cant believe you haven't got the TOR tune. My girl was a dawg before I got it. Now she roars like she's supposed to :lol:
Hesitation will be fixed!
Seat-O-Pants meter tells me +10 h.p.
I wonder what balanced T.B.s would do?
Well I've got this exhaust leak to work out. I don't want to load the TOR then get fed up with these pipes and install the stock can back on, then have to get the stock tune reloaded.
I reinstalled the pipes last night with some Permatex Copper, but then I snapped a clamp :(
So now I need to find a stainless 55-59mm clamp.
Then get the TOR tune and leave it in. At least thats what I would do. There were/are a few guys running the TOR tune with stock exhaust.
Really? Wonder how that's working out. I would think there would be too much back pressure with the stock can to run the TOR effectively.
The TOR tune is the way the bike is supposed to run. But then the fuel economy accountants and environmentalists stuck their noses into the equation.
The stock tune is essentially the best Triumph could get the bike to run while catering to stiff fuel economy and emissions standards... very lean air / fuel mixtures with retarded ignition timing.
As for pipes, the stock pipe flows plenty well. It is a quiet pipe that fits the more mainstream demographics of Tiger customers, but takes away very little in performance.
You're only looking at about ten more horsepower with the TOR tune, so the stock pipe certainly won't restrict much at all. You're just programming a bit more fuel and advancing the timing a bit. It's not like you're doubling the CFM flow of the intake and exhaust systems. The big difference between the programs is the low and midrange driveability. There are quite a few dudes here who run the TOR tune with the quieter stock pipe.
Interesting... As soon as the rain lets up I'll go have it done!
Found 100's of 55-59mm clamps in the UK but shipping like always was a killer... Cheapest I could make out was about $20 and I wasn't sure their shipping calculators were working correctly...
Trolled the web a while longer and finally found a place that sells the exact clamp I broke... at a sprinkler company... I think they are the only place in the USA that sells clamps this style and size individually!
http://bigsprinkler.com/catalog/55/hoseclamps (http://bigsprinkler.com/catalog/55/hoseclamps)
I was surprised to find mine would run on an early Daytona map, which is meant for basically the same engine but with higher lift cams. The map has more aggresive ignition advance and way more fuel that the Tiger map. It sounded really sharp and aggresive, but wouldn't tick over. I mean to investigate this when I have more time. According to the Tuneboy tutorials, you need to watch out for running it too lean and to check you really need an exhaust gas analyser, and also not to advance the ignition too far or you'll get detonations and engine damage.
No sweat then....
Wow - nice How To. Bring that sucker about 800 miles West to CO and I'll give you the Colorado Fall Colors Tour!
I did everything for my 12,000 a few weeks ago minus the valves and TB balancing. No job=no tools. :( for now, but I can afford a few $$ for gas to show you around! :D
What are the symptoms if the throttle bodies aren't synched? I think mine were last synched by a dealer about 50k miles ago. My local shop sells the Carbtune for less than $100 so I guess I'll be picking one up.
EB, nice write up. Thank you.
I have questions:
My 2004 presently idles smoothly at 1200 RPM, which seems normal. Does this mean it is balanced? It has no hesitations or flat spots up through the RPM range.
When you see the three columns not matched, which column do you take as the correct pressure to be matched by the other two, and why?
If you hold the throttle at 1200 RPM while balancing and then relax the throttle, and it drops to 1000, what do you do to get it to idle at 1200?
I can't answer as to what the symptoms of an unbalanced TB system would be. Guesses would be less power and more fuel consumption.
You're not trying to set the vacuum at a particular level. The goal is to balance them. TB#1 is non-adjustable, therefore you are balancing to and 2 and 3 to the same level as 1.
Quote from: "2004Tiger"EB, nice write up. Thank you.
I have questions:
My 2004 presently idles smoothly at 1200 RPM, which seems normal. Does this mean it is balanced? It has no hesitations or flat spots up through the RPM range.
When you see the three columns not matched, which column do you take as the correct pressure to be matched by the other two, and why?
If you hold the throttle at 1200 RPM while balancing and then relax the throttle, and it drops to 1000, what do you do to get it to idle at 1200?
If it's idling smoothly and runs sweet through the revs, for Pete's sake LEAVE IT ALONE!!! Some of us would sell our grandmothers for that... :roll:
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"...If it's idling smoothly and runs sweet through the revs, for Pete's sake LEAVE IT ALONE!!! Some of us would sell our grandmothers for that... :roll:
Yes, that is my intention. It also returns more than 50 MPG, riding fast in the Rockies.
Quote from: "2004Tiger"Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"..... Some of us would sell our grandmothers for that... :roll:
Yes, that is my intention.....
So dose Grandfather agree with this sale or is he all for it?
:ImaPoser :ImaPoser :ImaPoser
Quote from: "2004Tiger"Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"...If it's idling smoothly and runs sweet through the revs, for Pete's sake LEAVE IT ALONE!!! Some of us would sell our grandmothers for that... :roll:
Yes, that is my intention. It also returns more than 50 MPG, riding fast in the Rockies.
At my 12K service my 06 was running great, but I went ahead and balanced her anyways. It came a big snow as I was putting it back together so no ridie yet. It was off pretty good so I am glad I did, figured its a minor adjustment that wouldn't hurt. Kind of enjoyed it, and I just used a 15ft clear 1/4 hose with about a foot of 2 cycle oil on each side of thing.
Thanks EB! I just balanced my TBs and your write-up was very helpful.
FYI - My 2005 did not require extended fuel lines to run the bike with the tank off. I just removed zip ties holding the fuel line and positioned the tank on the left side of the bike. The fuel line and pump power line reached easily.
In regards to the symptoms of unbalanced TBs. My bike was idling rough. It would bounce around from 1000 to about 13-1400 when idling. It turns out my #2 TB was registering way above the other TBs when I hooked up the carbtune. I balanced everything and now the bike idles smooth right around 1200. Maybe it was a combination of things since I also replaced the air filter and spark plugs, but none of the old parts looked bad at all before I replaced them.
Since I balanced mine I have noticed no more popping when I let off the throttle and let the engine brake. It had been doing it really bad, and mine were not out too bad.
Been doing some reading over at TRAT and folks balancing their TB's on their Speed Triples mentioned leaving all sensors hooked up to avoid any error codes. Is this a consideration EB? I noticed your airbox not being in your photos so I'm assuming sensors were all unhooked?
Thanks.
Chuck
I don't think it's possible to get to the adjusters on all 3 cycl without pulling the airbox.
Even if you could, the effort would far exceed the task of running a 12 minute tune afterward to reset the sensor data.
If you have a ODBII cable and laptop, TuneECU is even easier.
Quote from: "EvilBetty"I don't think it's possible to get to the adjusters on all 3 cycl without pulling the airbox.
Correct. they're hard enough to get at with the box off!!
You could hook everything up before starting her up to ensure you don't get any codes, but like EB says, it's hardly worth it.
Just do the balance, put her back together and if the MIL light is on, it'll go out after three warm up / cool down cycles. As long as there's nothing else wrong of course.... :roll:
Yup, yup. Makes perfect sense. Thanks fellas. Parts should be here tomorrow or Friday. New throttle body gasket, new fuel pump/filter plate to fuel tank gasket and air filter. Reinstall throttle body's, balance, full reassembly, 12k mile maintenance...CHECK!
Surely appreciate the guidance.
Chuck
I found it worthwhile to replace the adjusters with stainless allen screws as it's quite hard to get them spot on with the standard cross-heads. Also used a drop of light loctite to stop them moving afterwards.
Thanks Ian. Headed to the hardware store today. Will do.
Well Gents, I'm finally getting around to putting the Tiger back together. I have a question regarding the balance process and in a nutshell, I'm trying to avoid buying a carbtune for the simple fact I built a twin manometer using two class Sobe Drink bottles, two rubber stoppers and some tubing. I works fantastically well for the Bonnie and Scrambler. My question is this:
Can I hook up my balancer to #1 and #2, make adjustment as necessary and then leave #1 hooked up and move the hose that was on the #2 to #3 and make adjustment as necessary and have it be somewhat "balanced". My concern is that it may be inaccurate if one port is left open while the other two have tubes attached. I gave it a try this afternoon and results seemed great if it is actually accurate......#1 and #2 balanced, #1 and #3 had slight differential easily adjusted. Double checked #2 and #3 = balanced. What says you fella's? Should I shoot the lock off of my wallet and order up a carbtune or am I on the right track?
Like you say I would be worried that an equal amount of back pressure would be required on the ICAV port you're leaving open while doing the balance.
Unless someone has some experience trying this, I'd guess the only way to know for sure would be to measure with a Carbtune or similar after using your method. :?
Buy another bottle of Sobe?? :lol:
As EB says, only way to be sure is a back to back check....
Ya! Another bottle of Sobe would be the answer but I'm not sure if what I have in mind in adding the third bottle would be an accurate measurement. The third bottle, (the middle bottle of the three ie. #2 TB), would have an extra hole in the stopper and it would seem to me that it wouldn't flow properly to provide an accurate measurement or provide the information that would specifically identify an out of balance TB. I've searched the internet for a home made manometer for a triple but have had no success.
Mine is identical to this one....
http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenance-a ... -tool.html (http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenance-and-workshop-talk/103136-cheap-effective-carb-tb-synch-tool.html)
Just sat down and drew it out....
How about attaching the third bottle, (the one with the extra hole in the stopper), to the Non-adjustable #1 TB. I'll have to study my drawing some more and possibly just build and try it but, it seems like one might be able to identify the out of balance TB with this set up and maintain accuracy being that all three TB's are hooked up to the system.
Oh man, this giving me a headache. I should just spend the $100! :lol:
Isn't that what you do with carb tune anyway? I mean one isn't adjustable, so you are balancing two to that, then three to that, so what's the difference?
I think what is concerning me is symmetry. With the carbtune, all three TB's are connected. Using my Two Tuber leaves one TB just pulling air in from the atmosphere.....which may or may not throw off the reading that I'm getting on my Sobe Bottle TB Balancer. When I gave it a try a couple of hours ago, I restricted the air intake on the TB that wasn't hooked up with my finger to see how it would affect the reading or flow. It was negligible but I'm still unsure. Guess I'll experiment with it a bit more.
John,
just saw you have a Norton on order....Very Envious!
You can be envious WHEN it turns up......long story, still waiting
She's back together. Idles smoothly now which is very pleasing to the ear and my ego. :lol:
Not sure what the single culprit was but probably a combination of a leaky throttle body gasket and the IACV gasket not sealing properly. Upon reassembly I saw that the airbox was not sitting/sealing on top of the IACV gasket. I put a thin layer of rtv silicone sealant on one surface, mounted the airbox, then pulled it off again looking for a consistent imprint in the sealant all the way around the gasket. Nope. Very spotty. So, I added a thicker layer of sealant in the areas that had an obvious gap. When I mounted the airbox this time I could see the sealant press out a bit, mostly looking inside the airbox. A better fix might be a custom cut out of some sort of gasket material or 3/16" foam using the OEM gasket to trace the shape and install between the OEM gasket and the airbox. Seems as though the OEM gasket is just barely thick enough and not pliable or squishy enough to make a good seal. Hoping my rtv sealant will do the trick until my 24k mile valve adjustment which is 12k miles away!
As far as the throttle body balancing goes; my Haines Manual desribes using a manometer as an option balancing #1 and #2 then, #1 and #3 and then rechecking a few times. I initially had problems using blue 2 cycle oil in my manometer. The viscosity of the oil just didn't give me the micro-movement reading I was looking for. Too thick! Looked through ALL cabinets in garage and my pantry for a lighter weight oil. Ended up using water as I typically do with the twins. :shock: As long as one is careful not to suck any water into the intake and to let the bike idle for a bit afterwards to burn off any condensation it seems pretty safe. And, most importantly, I was able to really fine tune the balancing of the throttle body's. What I thought was "balanced" with the two cycle oil was actually way off. A little blue thread locker and she's complete.
Next: Knocking the rear end apart for a cleaning/greasing of swing arm, shock and linkage bearings.
Then: Hurry up and wait for spring. :cry:
Thanks for all of your help fellas.
Chuck
Forgot to add: I also dremelled out the plate/baffle from inside the airbox. My bike has the TOR tune so she should be fine. I have yet to ride the bike but the throttle response is noticeably snappier and more crisp.