I committed this act back in April/May. The paint is showing no signs of failing.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/narelz/Picture032.jpg)
the choice was new decals(=$$) or paint(=1/2$).
Although at times I miss the decals(when viewing other steamers), overall I like it. Plus I can always change the color on the cheap.
Looks a nice job. I'm facing the same dilemna myself. Mind if I ask......Did you do the work at home or did you send it to the shop to be sprayed?
I like it! Understated and very tasteful.
DIY job
1. scuffed up the parts
2. a couple of coats of primer(I believe it was rustoleum)
3. a couple of coats of gunmetal gray(rustoleum)
4. couple coats of clear
I was able to do it myself for around $50 in materials
Of course a location with ventilation and a very good respirator(for you) are a key. Inhaling that paint will definitely shorten a persons life.
Gone Commando :lol:
It suits it, wear a cherry red lid and it will look very Brit WWII partrooper 8)
I don't think it's possible to spoil the looks of a steamer but then I've yet to see one in pink :shock:
i like it!!! looks great. 8)
It's such a top job and the colour really suits the bike.
Ok, wise tiger gents, I've a ahem... er few questions if you don't mind me running away with the thread a little as finally I've been successful on ebay and the parts are here, ready for stripping and repainting.
Firstly, some areas of paint have 'lifted' down to the plastic like a blister, probably due to the panel twisting/flexing. I take it if this happens I need to get back to bare plastic right across the piece?
I was going to take the opportunity to repair missing bolts in the tank, any ideas on the exact material the tank is made from?
Lastly, some areas of the tank are scuffed deep into the plastic. I am planning to just sand these out and where necessary fill the voids with car body filler or similar. Any thoughts on this?
Nick...
I am presuming that the 'insert' threads in the tank are spinning and you cannot screw down the bolts that hold the fairing.
IF that is the case:
Take a drill with a very small bit ( the size of a small finish nail).
Drill a hole starting about 3/16" out from the edge of the hole
and drill at an angle in towards the base of the threads. It will go easy
UNTIL you hit the 'flange' of the insert. Drill a bit more until you feel
that you are well into the flange metal ( DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH).
Carefully UNLOCK the drill bit from the drill WHILE THE BIT IS IN PLACE.
Set the drill aside.
If the hole has some gap in it, load it with Super Glue.
Then take good pliers and snap the drill bit off flush with the tank.
You now have an 'anchor' set at an angle that will prevent the threaded insert from spinning.
Use a metal washer so that when you tighten down the screw it also
applies pressure to the drill bit.
I did this on my Steamer a few times . . . works well.
The threaded insert is actually a flat plate about 3/16" around the
base of the screw that goes into it. So you have a good chance of
hitting it squarely. That plate also has teeth on it to prevent it from spinning, however some folks over-tighten or improperly use a screw gun
and wear away the area where the teeth 'bite' to give resistance.