Just took my Steamer for a run today and after about an hour of riding I stopped to take a break.
About five min I went to start it pulled the clutch turned on the key hit the button and it didn't do anything, lites came on as normal I turned the Key off and on again and pulled in the clutch it started like normal.
Then went to the store was inside for a good 45 mins went out to start it and the same thing, now I have been turning off the bike the key and not the kill switch could this be a problem that is normal or not?
:evil:
If the starter button does absolutely nothing, then my guess would be one of the safety switches is intermittent--there is one on the clutch and one on the side stand.
Geof
Quote from: "abruzzi"If the starter button does absolutely nothing, then my guess would be one of the safety switches is intermittent--there is one on the clutch and one on the side stand.
Geof
I am thinking it is the one on the side stand I will mess with it in the AM.
Thanks..
There is a Steamer history of a solder weld breaking INSIDE the key housing.
Very simple remedy . . . It may be a bugger opening it up to get to it.
Quote from: "TigerTrax"There is a Steamer history of a solder weld breaking INSIDE the key housing.
Very simple remedy . . . It may be a bugger opening it up to get to it.
Man I am beginning to wonder what I got myself into, these are not Lucas parts?? :roll:
One can only imagine all the older Triumphs that became lawn ornaments?
i agree with the other's but also would add - take a look at you starter switch, they get corrosion bould up on the contacts and even when they look clean, it still has to much resistance for a start. give it a good cleaning.
Most common is the sidestand cutout switch as it gets covered in road grime. Easy fixed by copious amounts of WD40 or similar.
Blame Kawasaki as they supplied the electrics for the early bikes.
Fret? Is that you sneaking in from the 1050 forum :lol: another exile arrives 8)
Quote from: "fret"Most common is the sidestand cutout switch as it gets covered in road grime. Easy fixed by copious amounts of WD40 or similar.
Blame Kawasaki as they supplied the electrics for the early bikes.
Seems to be gone after hitting every thing with switch cleaner!!
Now my next problem is getting and fixing three spinning Allen screw out of my fearing to get to the air box or anything I may need to work on under the gas tank, I should beat myself in the head with a sledge hammer after I set my head on fire first, that may be much more pleasant? :twisted:
I ordered a Hyperpro rear shock yesterday from a guy named Klaus a at EPM Performance custom built to my specs $520.00 shipped.
Pulled the old one out Saturday it was completely a dead horse, no gas leaking oil DEAD!
Now as I paid $2.000 for this 98 I am in for $2.700 after shock, battery and filters, vinyl to cover the seat and book (that covers too many Triumph Triples). It is a blast to ride but so is driving an MG Midget, and we all know what a nightmare those are. Never the less I am pushing forword and working out the bugs and with all the help you guys are giving me (thank's ). I may get it up to snuff and sell it take the loss and take the money and put it down on another bike like a KTM?
The one good thing is the motor runs fine but I see so many folks on the forum with problems with this bike it makes me wonder what is up, and finding parts in the U.S.?
Sin_tiger, fret's only got 3 posts here as well! Far from the the
"Other-worldly-God!"
But as always, has the knowledge, and the right answer!
I have a blast riding my Tiger. I HATE working on this poorly engineered POS that it is beneath the surface.
BTW, I think I've bought mine at least twice in the last 2.5 years of ownership. Perhaps this will affect your future decision process with this one. It's really hard to sell a dead bike, remember.