So I seem to be having this winter-caused sprag issue. My bike ('98 ) wouldn't start last winter because the valves were out of adjustment. After I set them it ran alright, but when it got really cold (sub-freezing) occasionally I would get the dreaded sprag slip and bang. Once the weather warmed up it never had trouble starting and ran fine the rest of the year. Now that winter is here and the temps are back below freezing the sprag is slipping again. It happens even when keeping it on the trickle charger every night, but will eventually start after 3-5 tries. It gets super cold in my garage here in Idaho.
I am wondering if this is just caused by the stupid spring that holds the teeth out on the sprag getting old and if keeping it warmer will let it last a while longer or if it is just going to let go all at once and not start at all anymore. Has anyone else out there had the sprag issue that only happens in really cold weather but otherwise works ok? I mean I rode a LOT this year. Not all that many miles, but almost daily as my commuter and shorter trips.
how old is the battery ?
and yes it's going to just give it up one day ands thats the last time it will ever start with the button on the handlebar :(
The battery is from last winter. Thanks Mustang. I've been reading up on the repair process here and I am not thrilled at the prospect to say the least.
If you do it, make sure you check the mesh screen in the sump...glad I listened to the manual for once and checked Z's...
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/ZahisEngine/IMG3581/752335805_hQuk5-L.jpg)
Not sure what all that stuff is...some of it may be bits of the broken alternator bolt... :roll:
hey, if you see my car key's in there, grab them for me :lol:
Quote from: "aeronca"hey, if you see my car key's in there, grab them for me :lol:
OMG, those were
yours?
:wink:
I know others have said it before...but even at 30,000 miles (and all this junk in the strainer!) the inside of this motor looks new. I plastiguaged the bearings and got a reading of .05mm - .06mm...new they're supposedly around .04mm.
This thing will live long enough to go through 3 more sprags... :shock:
(if I can get it back together right...)
Quote from: "Mudhen"Not sure what all that stuff is...some of it may be bits of the broken alternator bolt... :roll:
it is common to find on bikes that share the gearbox oil with the engine oil . some of it is surely clutch plate debris .
So I got the sprag replaced, engine put back together and put back in the bike. Now I just need to put all the 'extra' bits back together like the carbs, radiator, hoses, wires, etc.
I seem to remember a thread on here somewhere where someone had taken the sparg apart to see if he could replace the spring himself. He did it with wire which then also failed (urg). I was telling my buddy about it and now can't find the thread. Anyone know?
It was Doc Mordo but not sure what thread . But it was one of his earlier threads right after he joined
Here I am!
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,3988&highlight=sprag
Yep, that was actually kind of fun.
Incidentally, my Tiger is still inop because I had to blow $2000ish putting a turbo in my Volvo. So, maybe next month I'll buy the cam tensioner and get 'er up and running. Also, it has also been unbelievably cold, rainy, and miserable here in sunny Florida, so riding has been low on my list of things to do. I can handle the cold, but rain sucks.
Thanks Doc! This saves me the trouble of disassembling mine just to satisfy my riding buddies curiosity. It makes a nice expensive paperweight/conversation piece just how it is :D
Doc Mordo,
Impressive research on that sprag repair. I owe you.
Well, I'm glad it was useful to y'all.
If somebody has a early bike with removable sprag cover, they could take it to the next level by testing my theory and letting us know how it works!
Quote from: "Dr. Mordo"Well, I'm glad it was useful to y'all.
If somebody has a early bike with removable sprag cover, they could take it to the next level by testing my theory and letting us know how it works!
You didn't happen to look at the top of the motor and consider adding a cover, did you?? My buddies engine is still sitting in my garage and I've got an itchy dremel finger... :wink:
No, I didn't think about it. I think it would be tough. You'd have to cut out a pretty huge area, which I'd imagine would weaken the case a bunch. I bet they reinforced around the cover on those bikes.
It's a pretty funny image though. Someone out there with a dremel trying to cut out a giant section of 1/4" steel from an engine block.
Quote from: "Dr. Mordo"It's a pretty funny image though. Someone out there with a dremel trying to cut out a giant section of 1/4" steel from an engine block.
Isn't it aluminum? Good thinking, though - I'll use the angle grinder...
I wonder how pissed he'd be when he started it up and it split right down the side. :lol:
Don't think the thought didn't cross my mind as I was pulling all the gears and parts out and thinking "now why did they have an access plate on the earlier bikes and not on the later ones?!" :twisted:
BTW, had planned on finishing up Monday night, but Monday afternoon the shop called and said "your new airbox will be in on Wednesday." I just didn't see the point in putting it back together just to pull the carbs back out to replace the airbox. What a stupid design. I seem to remember some other folks on the forum who had come up with some other solutions to this puzzle. Anyone know?
So wish me luck as I get the rest put back together tonight and push that precious little right-hand thumb button!
Thought I'd better post some of the pictures I took with the cell phone. I didn't bother to take many since it has been so well documented in other threads. In any case this first one is of the frame and my buddy kept saying "that looks stupid!" I couldn't help thinking it reminded me of a sad, anorexic camel:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/rdphelp/Repairs/Frame.jpg)
The next two are of the engine pulled and sitting on the bike lift. It was a very handy tool to have borrowed:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/rdphelp/Repairs/engine2.jpg)
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/rdphelp/Repairs/engine1.jpg)
The next one is of the split case after pulling the starter gear. We were very pleased with how clean and new it all looked considering it has 34k on it:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/rdphelp/Repairs/case.jpg)
The last is my personal favorite and I like to say we had all the right tools including towles, cleaner, power tools and lubricant:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z43/rdphelp/Repairs/tools.jpg)
BTW, you can see the handy workbench that DesertDog custom-made himself and loaned to me for the job. Putting this bad boy up on the sawhorses sure saved on the ol' back and knees!
I like the engine stand ..very handy
Yes, very nice engine stand.
I actually don't mind the airbox/carb situation on the Tiger. Conversely, on my F650 the airbox is held in place by the exhaust, so to get the carbs out you just have to rip it out from between the airbox rubbers and the intake manifold, which leads to torn rubbers. Then, guess how you get it back in? That's right - use a prybar to stuff it back in. I much prefer the Tiger setup.
Strangely enough, even although some of the other stuff was horrific, when mine was opened up at 85k mls it looked pretty clean too. The oil was black but as I tell my students, that's the way it's meant to be. If you take oil out and it's still clean then one of two things is the cause, you are running on LPG or the oil is not doing part of it's job.