Anyone come across or fitted the new Scotoiler Esystem? It's meant to be really simple to fit and use. Only problem, it is over £2oo compared to around £90 for the standard one. How hard is the old style to fit??
Cheers
DiggerT
Use a good spray oil (I use Motul) every 500 km and clean your chain occasionally then you will not need to spend even £90.
I can't see the worth in one of these unless you are very forgetful. When going on a long trip I just lube the chain every morning.
Cheers!
tett
Quote from: "diggerT"Anyone come across or fitted the new Scotoiler Esystem? It's meant to be really simple to fit and use. Only problem, it is over £2oo compared to around £90 for the standard one. How hard is the old style to fit??
Cheers
DiggerT
well in the rain they are worth their weight in gold . rain will wash the lube off in no time . I used to think what was the point of an oiler , well it will pay for itself in 1 chain change time , you can get double and even triple the chain life by using a oiler .
My Blackbird, which is way more powerful than a Tiger, gets over 30k miles out of a chain with Scottoiler. My OEM chain on my old 900 trident only managed 8k and I didn't neglect it.
Tourer is easier to fit than standard as you don't have to find a home for the gubbins, it all fits behind the number plate - fill and forget (for months anyway).
Word of warning - be careful when fitting the vacuum takeoff. I had my throttle jam open and it damn near killed me due to a badly fitted Scottoiler (not by me); read my post in the What Not To Do section.
I'll stick to dry lube thanks,chains only go to 20,000 and i don't have a bike covered in crap either.
I use a wax based teflon lube I used on my mountain bike. It used to work great taking the bike through mud and water crossings. Figured it might work as well on the Tiger. So far it's seems to be working pretty well.
Quote from: "Chris Canning"I'll stick to dry lube thanks,chains only go to 20,000 .....
My OEM Blackbird chain developed a tight spot so I changed it at around 30k miles - the sprockets were as good as new. The second chain is now up to 57k and still going strong. No tight spots, no stretching and no cracking in the sideplates - which happened to my OEM Triumph chain.
What's your 20,000 limit based on? I've read lots of internet forum bxxxxxks on the subject, and some credible arguments about sideplate 'O' ring wear eventually letting water in and seizing links - which is what I think happened to the first 'Bird chain, but I've never found any reasoned engineering matter on the subject. I'd very much like to read whatever you have.
Every time I come home from a run no matter how far I have been that day I just paint the chain with a good quality engine oil. If I am away for a few days on the bike then I take a can of spray lube with me.
The original chain on my Tiger lasted 23000 miles so that works out at around 0.45 pence per mile for chain and sprockets, not a major concern as far as I am concerned. Having seen the oily mess left by some chain oilers, maybe badly fitted, maybe not, :? I give them a miss.
Andy.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Quote from: "Chris Canning"I'll stick to dry lube thanks,chains only go to 20,000 .....
My OEM Blackbird chain developed a tight spot so I changed it at around 30k miles - the sprockets were as good as new. The second chain is now up to 57k and still going strong. No tight spots, no stretching and no cracking in the sideplates - which happened to my OEM Triumph chain.
What's your 20,000 limit based on? I've read lots of internet forum bxxxxxks on the subject, and some credible arguments about sideplate 'O' ring wear eventually letting water in and seizing links - which is what I think happened to the first 'Bird chain, but I've never found any reasoned engineering matter on the subject. I'd very much like to read whatever you have.
It's based on the chain developing a tight link,i still have the original chain tucked away,no knackered rollers or side plates,but had a tight link,rarely does the Tiger get ridden in the Uk apart to some ferry port,but when it does,600/1000 miles a day is the norm,so the chain can take a pasting,and ontop of that,i work in the motorcycle trade so a chain at trade price is always a cheaper option.
I wouldn't have thought tight spots on a tiger chain would ever be a problem,i run that much slack in mine would never show up.
May i say for those guys on a budget i can understand getting the enth degree of wear out of a chain with a Scott oiler,but i just can't be done with all that crap all over the bike,walking out to the bike in some hotel garage or carpark for another days riding in Europe with a bike covered in gunge doesn't do it for me.
Quote from: "Chris Canning"but i just can't be done with all that crap all over the bike,walking out to the bike in some hotel garage or carpark for another days riding in Europe with a bike covered in gunge doesn't do it for me.
So Chris, I'm assuming that you never, ever have to clean your bike ever. Come on. Does a little oil mixed in with all the other crap that the wheel picks up off the road really matter? You know? The dead flies, the bits of tar etc.
My view on it when I'm touring is that I don't have to remember to lube my chain. I don't have to squat down in the pissing rain outside an hotel and spray chain lube at a moving chain.....which is, most probably, all washed of after 100 miles. I fill up my reservior at home and it lasts about 4000 miles. It means that my chain runs lubricated and cool ALL the time regardless of the weather. My chains go beyond 30000 miles. Well I say chain
s because I'm only on my second one with the bike at 58K.
Fitting a Scottoiler was the first mod I did on my Tigger and, apart from heated grips is the best mod any chain drive bike could have.
In answer to the original question.....the cheaper oiler works fine and as I've already got one I don't know much about the new one except they don't recommend fitting ANY Scottoiler to an EFI Scrambler so I went with a Lubetronic.
Installed a scottoiler three years ago. simple to install, needs occasional adjustment to flow rate due to rain or extreme temperature fluctuations. Essentially pays for itself by doubling or tripling chain/sprocket life. I put the reservoir under the right side plastic by my knee, makes it easy to adjust flow rate to riding conditions and see fill level. Though the new electronic version is I freely admit "sorta cool" I'd have a hard time trying to justify the cost over the older manual version which works very well. As far as the scottoil dust/grime that coats the rear wheel...wipes off with a paper towel, no scrubbing necessary. I just pulled the rear swingarm yesterday to do the 24k service and install a Penske shock..cleaned up all the gunk pretty quick with a few shoprags.
Jonathan
06' Tiger
Personally I would never fit a scotoiler myself..............
Because I use one of these http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/ (http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/) its the same principle as the scotoiler but its not automatic (you squeeze the bottle before you set off!) and at less than £20 its a real bargain.
I have used these on 3 different bikes now (including the one currently on my Girly) and they are great, they take a little bit of fitting, but no more so than a scotoiler and when the feeder wears out its the cost of 2 tie wraps to repair.
Its far easier to clean the engine oil off the rear wheel than gunky chain lube, and current chain is well over 12k without adjustment.
The expanation on the site above as to how a chain wears seems logical enough to me as an engineer.
I could see the logic of twin delivery straight away so bought one from Scottoiler. It might have been my rubbish installation (I don't think so) but my Blackbird ate it in about 200 miles. Being all plastic I couldn't get it to stay in a fixed position for any length of time.
Anyway, I fabricated my own out of very small gauge brass tube bought from the local aeromodel shop, two 20mm pieces of plastic tube for flexibility and two Scottoiler nibs all mounted on a proper METAL bracket.
I've seen a really neat instalation done by BSD Tuning in Peterborough where they drill the swing arm and feed the tube down the inside. It obviously works but I just can't bring myself to do the drill thing. Instead, on the Tiger, I bought some aluminium tube - again from the model shop - and using a bending tool designed for brake lines I made up a pipe run along the swing arm that looks much neater than the plastic tube. I'll post a pic when it warms up a bit.
I fitted one of these [ www.pro-oiler.com (http://www.pro-oiler.com) ] wouldn't even go back to shaft drive now! The chain does not rule my life any more! :wings
Wow... that ain't cheap. Did you get it locally or import it?
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Instead, on the Tiger, I bought some aluminium tube - again from the model shop - and using a bending tool designed for brake lines I made up a pipe run along the swing arm that looks much neater than the plastic tube. I'll post a pic when it warms up a bit.
I'd be interested to see that Bob.
I got the stealer to install mine to avoid any warranty issues. Wish I hadn't, not a dual applicator as I specified, lost all the extra fitting bits from the kit, resevoir just dumped under the seat. Works fine but just offends my engineering sensibilities looking at it :x
I'll put something in Farkles ...
Fitted a scottoiler to my bike when they first came out, I was so impressed with the extended chain life I have fitted one to every bike I have owned since (except my Tiger 955i because the sensible previous owner had fitted a touring one). As for the mess, the scottoil washes of with soupy water unlike the hideous chain lube which seems to stick to everything except the chain.
Done 8000 miles since I bought it, two Scotland trips fully loaded, and adjusted the chain once about 200 miles ago.
I wipe my swing arm and wheel rim down with a rag and white spirit before washing. It lifts the crap without scoring or scratching.... or any significant effort either :lol: