Now the swing arm is fitted, i`ve just ordered a new rub strip and rub block.
The strip is a straight forward fit, but i`ve looked through the steamer pics on here and in the manual, and its not clear where it fits exactly?
Can`t see where or what it actually bolts to?
:oops:
Any help? Cheers Chaps. :D
even the triumph factory manual doesn't really show where it goes ............
It doesn't go on the swingarm like you would think .
it goes on the main frame right behind the foot peg bracket there should be a round steel ferrule welded to the frame right there , thats where the bolt bushing and rub block bracket attach with 1 single bolt .
If your frame is missing the ferrule .......that means that at some point in the bikes life the chain and rub block were so knackered that the chain ripped the whole mess right off the frame . I tried to snap a pic for you but it is no go as there is too much in the way to get a clear photo.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/chain%20job/101_1694.jpg)
this is the best shot I have of it
look at the bottom footpeg mount hole ...see the bolt head just to the right of it thats the rub block bolt thats where the rub block attaches to the main frame
My homemade version lasted longer than the stock one I replaced it with (twice, now). This shot is from the rear looking forward at the lower chain run.
(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Tiger-Maintenance/DSC00773/338706896_WA8KH-M.jpg)
Thanks Chaps, thats cleared that one up.
I`ve ordered a new one yesterday, along with the nut, bolt and spacer as its all missing.
As usual, its on backorder, not in stock, should be here in 2 weeks. :roll:
Things just got worse.
Just been out and had a look, no bracket. :cry:
Think i realise now why it had the Trophy rear end on it. :roll:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2212.jpg)
Looks like trying to make up a bracket and have it welded on or another frame.
Theres a couple on Ebay at the moment, might have a closer look to see if they`re undamaged.
Might be easier getting a bit of Teflon fettled up and clamped onto the footpeg tube, just a thought :?
or you could just weld a new tab onto the frame ..it's just a simple little tab with a hole in it to mount the rub block on .........would be a lot cheaper than a new/used frame and one could always use thicker steel to make it better than the original mount .
In your pic look just to the left of the chain at the bottom of the square frame downtube , see what looks like a pc of stamped steel attached to the inside edge ?
That's the remnants of the mounting point for the Rub Block .
Mine being in bits in the workshop I might be able to put a bit of cardboard in there and trace it and draw it up with dimensions - IF I remember when I'm in the workshop :roll:
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"Mine being in bits in the workshop I might be able to put a bit of cardboard in there and trace it and draw it up with dimensions - IF I remember when I'm in the workshop :roll:
That would be a big help and much appreciated. :D
If you have a printer/scanner, you could always Email me it?
Just looking at pictures of the rub block bracket on bikebandit parts diagram, does the curve of the bracket fit under the round part of frame to stop it turning when the pressure of the chain is over the top of it?
Won`t really be able to do much until the new one arrives in 2 weeks.
Guess i can start cleaning all the muck and crap off and get it cleaned up ready for a trip to the welders. :roll:
Quote from: "rf9rider"Just looking at pictures of the rub block bracket on bikebandit parts diagram, does the curve of the bracket fit under the round part of frame to stop it turning when the pressure of the chain is over the top of it?
Won`t really be able to do much until the new one arrives in 2 weeks.
Guess i can start cleaning all the muck and crap off and get it cleaned up ready for a trip to the welders. :roll:
Yep thats exactly how the bracket on the rub block works .........it's an easy fix BTW once you have a new plate made up the weld job is easy .
:wink:
Well, I don't have a decent picture of the bracket but here's one with the new block in stalled.
(http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/brendaner/cs-chainblock.jpg)
I've since worn that one out but then I made another one out of a block of plastic (gives another view of the bracket). I'm going to re-do it using some abrasion resistant Ultra High Molecular Weight Polypropylene (UHMW PP has very low coeff of friction; std PP in there now). This also moves the chain's rubbing point forward to put it close to being directly under the swing arm's pivot pt AND it'll protect that frame cross member just below the chain (block is partially hidden and actually much longer than you can see). Jury is out on whether any of this makes much of a difference or improvement over the OEM rubbing block... certainly going to last longer IMO. :wink:
(http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/brendaner/chainblock6.jpg)
Brendan
'98 BRG Steamer
Thanks for all this info, guys. I was wondering why my chain drags on the pavement.
Yes, I am that stupid.
Quote from: "cochris"Thanks for all this info, guys. I was wondering why my chain drags on the pavement.
Yes, I am that stupid.
well when I first rode mine, I couldnt work out what the graunching noise was - the chain running over the bracket with the rub block missing would do it I reckon!!! :oops:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3487/3987015636_3f84d89836.jpg)
'RF9' heres what a new one looks like..
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4328050993_66f279038c.jpg)
I 'think' I held on to the old bracket to see if I could make up a replacement 'guide' (but dont think I will).. if you need to have a look before your new one turns up (2 weeks? Webbs got mine next day?) then let me know
Neil
Ahh, but he's dealing with Webbs PETERBOROUGH..... same company but not the same level of service; trust me, I know.... :evil:
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Ahh, but he's dealing with Webbs PETERBOROUGH..... same company but not the same level of service; trust me, I know.... :evil:
ah... :wink:
Nooooooooo, i`ve ordered the bits from Fowlers, always used them for my previous Yamaha`s i rebuilt, always a good quick service from them, up until now. :lol:
And thanks all for the info/pics.
Need a few measurements please.
What thickness and width metal do i need to make up the tab, and what size drillbit for the hole?
Cheers Chaps. :)
Going over to the workshop on Sat morning, I'll see what I can do.
Quote from: "rf9rider"Nooooooooo, i`ve ordered the bits from Fowlers, .......
Normally with Webbs (well Lincoln anyway) they can check if the part is in stock at Triumph, if it is and if they get the order in before 11 a.m. it gets to the the following day....small bits and pieces I've had posted to me if I'm not goign to be over that way... not used the Peterborough branch although I think t'other half got my christmas present from there!
Used Webbs for getting my YZF750 and Thunderace bits,always a good service.
Will have to try them next time for the Tiger.
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"Going over to the workshop on Sat morning, I'll see what I can do.
Thanks mate.
To be accurate, the guy in the parts dept at Webbs Peterboro' is really good and very helpful. It's the workshops lot I don't have any faith in.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"To be accurate, the guy in the parts dept at Webbs Peterboro' is really good and very helpful. It's the workshops lot I don't have any faith in.
Too right, not many dealer workshops round here i`d trust either.
Only good service i ever got was from the small bike shop in Ramsey, rebuilt an old XJ650 engine, although that was about 20 years ago. :lol:
I used to drive for Cade Bros, next door to his workshop, so used to call in quite a lot.
Good news.
All my bits i ordered arrived today. :D
Guess what i`m doing today. :lol:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2218.jpg)
Just need the measurement between the 2 lines, from edge of square down tube to cente hole of the tab, just to get an approx idea where to drill the mount hole.
Cheers Chaps. :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/rubblock.jpg)
you could use the new rub block bracket as a guide or I will see if I can get the info you need off of one of my steamers later today I need to take tigger 2's footpeg and cover off anyway to do a little modifying
if you are not in a big hurry I should have the info you need later tonite ........ 8)
Thanks Mustang.
I`ve started work on a new bracket, should be done later, then when its mounted, i can drill the hole for the block.
Stripped the back end off again, cleaned it up and found no trace of the old bracket.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2220.jpg)
At least i got the new strip rub fitted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2223.jpg)
I`ll put some pics up of the bracket when its fifnished, see what you think.
Quote from: "Mustang"you could use the new rub block bracket as a guide or I will see if I can get the info you need off of one of my steamers later today I need to take tigger 2's footpeg and cover off anyway to do a little modifying
if you are not in a big hurry I should have the info you need later tonite ........ 8)
Just need a rough idea where to drill the mounting hole, don`t want it too high or the block will wear out too quickly, or too low and wear the swing arm! :shock:
I reckon about 15mm but was having trouble holding the torch and tape measure at the same time.. if Mustang doesnt get a chance later I'll have a proper go tomorrow...
one thing you might want to to.. change that torxhead bolt on the side of the chainguide for a hexhead, as once the swingarm is in place its right behind the footrests (I think) and difficult to get square on to it if its a bit tight next time you want to change the guide... not as bad as on the Thunderbird series, on mine I had to unbolt the rear subframe and prise it apart to wind the bolt out!! :D
Cheers Neil, i will eventually strip the whole bike next winter, and rebuild the lot and replace all the bolts with stainless ones, it`ll do for now. :)
in the daylight its nearer 10mm although difficult to get a rule on it with the exhaust etc in the way.. :roll:
sorry rf didn't get a chance to work tigger 2 , busier than a cat covering shit....
and as neil says it's hard to get in there with the footpeg bracket in the way ............
I fyou can stand to bear with me I should get to it eventually in the next couple of days :roll:
Mine, too has nothing remaining of the tab, block or bracket. Dealer wanted +$50 for parts. I thought that was crazy! I'm not too interested in welding to aluminum. What do you all think of bolting a bracket to the footpeg hole? Haven't figured out how then to keep it in place...
But, fabricating said bracket w/ a chunk of teflon or the like should be able to be done for a few bucks. Thoughts, anyone?? Thanks.
Also, if anyone thinks that would work, how high should the top of my makeshift block be above the center of the bottom footpeg hole?
Finally got the bracket made and fitted.
Used 2mm steel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2233.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2235.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2231.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2229.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2226.jpg)
Just needs a coat of paint, and need to get some proper mushroom headed allen bolts.
So does it look ok?
Does the height of the block look to be in the right place?
looks good .
That height appears to be just about perfect
you have made a nice repair that eliminated the need for welding .
My only concern will be if the chain is able to contact the nuts when it is passing by at high rate of speed , only one way to find out .
In your photo you can see exactly why triumph put that block there .....to keep the chain from rubbing on the frame as seen in your pic
GOOD JOB BTW !
Thanks Mustang.
Theres only a couple of mm space between the chain and bracket bolts, so hoping theres enough room to allow for sideways movement of the chain.
I haven`t access to a welder, so had to use bolts for now, but i might get it welded on when i strip it down next winter.
Or i have thought about countersinking the holes, and using countersunk headed bolts.
Managed to get to the workshop on Sat and guess what! My bracket has been broken off at some point as well and welded back on :roll: will the bodge list ever end :( The welds don't look brillinat but they are solid so I think I'll leave it. Been busy today, I'll post the drawing and photos tomorrow. You've been busy, frightened you might miss the one good riding day between now and July :lol:
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"You've been busy, frightened you might miss the one good riding day between now and July :lol:
You mean there will be one? :lol:
Quote from: "John Stenhouse"You mean there will be one? :lol:
Bit of a vain hope from what I see of the UK weather just now :roll:
Finally got my sh1t together, camera - check, notebook cardboard pen pencil - check, vernier calipers - doh!, Autodesk - on the otehr works PC - doh! The waist radius is just a guess and I can't be sure of the angle of it relative to the frame, just too pigg'n difficult to measure without a full strip down and being jammed in next to a rack of GS's waiting for shaft seals etc. I was too :oops: to hang around there too long.
Chatting with my mechanic guru, he reckoned Suzuki made a couple of different sized Nylon / Teflon / High Impact PU type rollers complete with sealed bearings built in for their early dirt bikes and that they were available pattern for not a lot of gold bars, he's investigating :wink:
Just found I can't upload as I've reached my quota maximum so I'll have to link them.
On Chassis (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3275124&l=8cf4749fdc&id=580424527)
Part Image (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3275120&l=d7588af23d&id=580424527)
Drawing (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3275119&l=5a7c163ab7&id=580424527)
Thanks Sin.
I`ll have another go at that next winter when the bike is stripped down.
Just have to wait and see how my bracket holds up.
Your job looks pretty solid, unless something very untoward happens like the chain letting go, you'll probably be fine.
I'll post back here when I find out about the roller thingy's.
Fingers crossed for some good weather for you guys 8)
I finally got the new block on and fitted the swing arm etc.
The block was mounted way too high, with the new swing arm slider fitted as well, the back wheel was almost solid.
Had to "fettle" the rub block, rather than remove the swing arm etc again,I just cut off some metal where it fits under the peg mount, this lowered it enough so i could at least turn the back wheel.
So i`m going to run it like this for now, see how it goes.
Sending my original shock off today for a rebuild, then just the carbs to clean and balance, and do the valve clearances, then hopefully ride the thing. :D
Quote from: "rf9rider", then just the carbs to clean and balance, and do the valve clearances, then hopefully ride the thing. :D
Valve adjust first , carb balance last it makes a difference !
The UHMW Works great, I bought a block for $7.00 My tiger will be dead and gone by the time I use it all up.
The Triumph block is hard rubber so i cut the rubber away and built my new block.
I WILL get this thing fixed yet... :?:
Anyone ever seen the tab for the rub block mount come off the peg tube? I cleaned the rectangular frame bar, no sign whatsoever of any previous weld; powdercoating is totally undisturbed. However, under the tube that braces the rub block, there is clearly a broken weld. Could this be where the 'bolt' tab for the rub block originated at one time? 97 Steamer...
If you can wait a couple of days i`ll get my spare frame out and take a few pics if thats any help to you?
It's possible that it wasn't welded on too solidly in the first place, mine's been welded up as well.
Any help/ photos would be appreciated. No clue what the weld break is under that footpeg mount tube??? Definitely a broken tab of some sort. Thanks again everyone.
Quote from: "cochris"Any help/ photos would be appreciated.
Check the links in my post above.
Heres pics as promised, though the bracket looks different to others i`ve seen.
This bracket is an "L" shaped, welded both horizontally and vertically.
Looks stronger than others too!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2303.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2304.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2305.jpg)
Thank you very much for the picts!! This is the way I'm going to go about fixing it.
Quote from: "rf9rider"This bracket is an "L" shaped, welded both horizontally and vertically.
Looks stronger than others too!
Zoomed in as close as I could on the welds but not that clear. It does look like a replacement and yes probably stronger.
Quote from: "rf9rider"]
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/rf9rider/IMGP2226.jpg)
e?
Aha! Thanks to this thread, which I stumbled over, I have realized two things. One, why the chain makes such a tick tick sound when I roll the bike without the engine on and why there are new kinds of wibes on the footpegs., and two, why there was a strange breaking noise and feeling from below the bike some time ago. I stopped and wondered what the heck went to pieces but couldn´t find anything. Now there´s no bracket where there should have been one. This thread made me realize it.
So I´m off to the workshop of my kind father in law with printed images to make a copy of this before the weekend ride I´ve planned for a long time.
Three times horay for this excellent forum. :hello2 :hello2 :hello2