I have searched and found some info, but need more.
Ive got a 99 tiger, bought new. About 6 years ago I had a hagon
progressive fork spring installed. It did help with fork dive and seems to handle cornering alot better. BUT, I miss that smooth ride on rough roads.
I wish their was other options. I would like the best of both worlds.
Is their any way to have great bump soaking, no nose dive, and good
cornering?
The stock tiger spring with a 10 weight or even 15 weight fork oil work pretty well for what you are after .
You will still get some fork dive under HARD braking but not as bad as with the 5 wt oil that tiggers come with :wink:
How much do you weigh? What loads do you carry?
Proper STRAIGHT RATE springs, Emulators, Synthetic ATF and you will be golden.
If you need help with parts information on setup, ask away.
Thanks Mustang and Sasquatch,
I weight about 185 lbs. I just bought hard luggage. I think that adds about
35 lbs, empty. I won't always have full luggage on. Only do a couple
3 to 4 day trips. When you say use strait rate spring, does that mean
that the original spring will work ok, or is their something better.
I have no idea what emulator are.
I have more to say, but I got to get to work.
Race Tech cartridge emulators http://www.racetech.com/ (http://www.racetech.com/) essentially make your damping rod fork behave more like a cartridge fork. Paired with a spring and oil of your choice you should be able to tune the ride to your liking. Much better that the stock setup.
Hope this helps,
Jonathan
I'm with Mustang on this one. My 2000 was atrocious at the front, I stayed with the stock spring and went up to 15wt oil, it improves the dive without losing too much of the nice original feel.
I have to say though I've never driven any Tiger with emulators or pro springs so this is subjective
I've got a tiger with a Traxxion refurbed front forks and rear shock
while it handles the road very well , I don't like the emulators at all
far too stiff for that bump absorbing ride
in my opinion it kinda defeats the purpose of having a long legged beast for soaking up bumps . maybe I need to try some ATF in it ....hmmmmmmm
Tigger 2 on the other hand (have I ever mentioned it's my favorite :ImaPoser ) has an Ohlins in the rear and stock tiger up front with 15 wt. oil , me likey . 8)
Quote from: "SethTiger"I have searched and found some info, but need more.
Ive got a 99 tiger, bought new. About 6 years ago I had a hagon
progressive fork spring installed. It did help with fork dive and seems to handle cornering alot better. BUT, I miss that smooth ride on rough roads.
I wish their was other options. I would like the best of both worlds.
Is their any way to have great bump soaking, no nose dive, and good
cornering?
You want your cake and eat it as they say,no harm in trying but it ain't going to happen,you can have one or the other,or a compromise that does neither :wink:.
If you like the plushness of the stock suspension but are worried about dive under braking, reduce the air gap.
You should be running .90kg fork springs, ATF, Emulators set at two turns out. I promise, it will feel good.
Mustang, if you did not like the emulators, how did you have them set up? RT always sets their stuff up too stiff. 2.0 turns out (vs. 4.0 turns) is much more plush, yet makes the forks ride much better.
This might sound crazy but since I already have the progressive springs
in right now,and I found the can of oil they put in and it is 15 weight,
What would happen if I put lighter weight in,like 5 wieght.
Quote from: "Mustang"has an Ohlins in the rear and stock tiger up front with 15 wt. oil , me likey . 8)
Me hope to likey also when I get it back on the road. Slightly OT (when has htat ever bothered me) have you got any pics of the Ohlins with it's original stickers, I thought about gettign a set made up here but can't figure out which colour / size / orientation and whether they had a warning label or not?
I've run an Ohlins on the back and stock forks,Ohlins springs 15 wt oil for some years,first 50 miles?,stiffish,after that spot on.
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"Slightly OT (when has htat ever bothered me) have you got any pics of the Ohlins with it's original stickers, I thought about gettign a set made up here but can't figure out which colour / size / orientation and whether they had a warning label or not?
The shock had no labels or warnings , and the remote cylinder has nothing on it other than the Ohlins sticker , thats the way it came from Ohlins
The sticker looks like this one on my swingarm with the only difference being that the letters are clear which lets the gold anodized body shine thru like gold letters
the size of the sticker on the remote is 2 5/8 inch x 1 inch
and the swingarm sticker is 5 x2 inch
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1648.jpg)
Quote from: "Mustang"the remote cylinder has nothing on it other than the Ohlins sticker , thats the way it came from Ohlins
The sticker looks like this one on my swingarm with the only difference being that the letters are clear which lets the gold anodized body shine thru like gold letters
Sorry I should have said it was the remote I was talking about. That's what I suspected, Blue on clear.
Brilliant, thanks Mustang :thumbsup :occasion14
Mustang, are your eccentrics upside down, or are mine?
mine are in that pic , depends on what tires I have on the tigger and how much preload on the ohlins ......sometimes she is just too tall for my 30 inch inseam :wink:
Quote from: "Mustang"mine are in that pic , depends on what tires I have on the tigger and how much preload on the ohlins ......sometimes she is just too tall for my 30 inch inseam :wink:
Sounds like maybe something I should try. (Inseam barely makes 30".) No effects on function? Do I just turn it all the way round, or will it overtighten the chain on the way? Do I remove it and replace it upside down? A mechanic friend once mentioned this to me, but was hesitant about it. Didn't say why.
Quote from: "Medic09"Sounds like maybe something I should try.
You'll need to raise the chain guard too - as shown in the piccy. You'll also need to be careful about where you park up using the sidestand. How do I know this? ;-)
Quote from: "Medic09"Sounds like maybe something I should try. (Inseam barely makes 30".) No effects on function?
pull your forks up in the triple trees about 3/4 to an inch and she will turn like a scalded dog :wink:
QuoteDo I just turn it all the way round, or will it overtighten the chain on the way? Do I remove it and replace it upside down? A mechanic friend once mentioned this to me, but was hesitant about it. Didn't say why.
rotate it towards the front of bike , chain will get real loose then you just adjust it till you like the chain tension .
There will no longer be any reference marks to use for adjusting chain though , and like mentioned you need to raise the rear mount of the chain guard up like in the pic , about an inch of spacer and a longer bolt works .
Also check to make sure the lug on the side of the brake carrier has been removed because it will prevent you from rotating the eccentrics upside down
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "Medic09"There will no longer be any reference marks to use for adjusting chain though
When I was sure I had my wheel aligned I put a couple of pop marks on the rim of the clamp so I could use them for reference
Quote Also check to make sure the lug on the side of the brake carrier has been removed because it will prevent you from rotating the eccentrics upside down
I didn't have to do this on my 04.
lug on the side of the brake carrier?
steamers have a lug on the outboard side of the brake carrier to prevent you from rotating the eccentrics , not sure about the Girly bikes .........
you'll know if there is one as you won't be able to rotate around until you grind it off .
Spacers under chain guard front and rear, or just rear? I should think in any case the front wouldn't need to be raised as much?
only on the rear
Hey guys, read this thread and did a quick search but haven't found an answer.
Does it pay out to change the springs to progressive ones?
I don't know what kind are on the bike right now. When I apply the brake it dives realy fast, so I'm thinking they are stock (with really old oil). And I don't like that feeling.
Will progressive springs help with this? Or would just an oil change help (let's say that right now there is stock inside, what would I have to put in)?
I'm interested in riding on "gravel-forest service" roads and asphalt.
The springs are not that expensive --> is it possible to change them by myself, I saw some people clame it is really easy to chenge the oil, so I figured while doing that you just swap the springs?
p.s.: got my gear box today, finally :wings :wings :wings :wings
Quote from: "NKL"If you like the plushness of the stock suspension but are worried about dive under braking, reduce the air gap.
By how much? Do you have a good reference starting point? 25% of the gap .... 50%?
(yes I know it's all subjective and varies with load but it's hard to know where to start from never having tried this before)
Quote from: "topher0268"Quote from: "NKL"If you like the plushness of the stock suspension but are worried about dive under braking, reduce the air gap.
By how much? Do you have a good reference starting point? 25% of the gap .... 50%?
(yes I know it's all subjective and varies with load but it's hard to know where to start from never having tried this before)
Try reducing 5mm at a time until you either find a setting you like or decide it's not what you want. According to my manual the std. setting is 107mm for spoke wheel Girlies.
QuoteTry reducing 5mm at a time until you either find a setting you like or decide it's not what you want. According to my manual the std. setting is 107mm for spoke wheel Girlies.
My manual for the 885 Triumph says 119mm from the top (forks compressed), 682cc of 10w.
When I put in the Progressive Suspension springs, they recommended 140mm from the top due to the tighter winding of their springs (displace more oil).