I thought since I had my airbox, and carbs off, I would remove the alternator and check what I suspect was the cause of the clattering at idle.
Had to use the torch and four different T40 bits to loosen the one top bolt as it was pretty well siezed in the engine case. Lots of heat later, she broke free. :D
I found the drive adapter hold down bolt backed out as far as it could before contacting the engine side drive. The adapter was a bit loose on the splines, and so there ya go...Dreaded Alternator Rattle!
The loose bolt wasunbroken, undamaged and 10.9 grade, so I removed it and the drive adapter, cleaned the splines and threads, applied a press-fit Loctite goo to the splines and red loctite to the bolt threads and re-assembled the whole lot.
This was done in conjunction with a valve clearance check and some other required winter work. I started it up and it sounded quiet, like a Girly! :shock:
Test rode it today and the noise got a little louded after warm up, but I definitely think it's quieter. I'll check again next year to see how my repair held up.
So, my point is...DAR can sneak up on you as the noise gets louder over so much time you may not notice it. It's definitely worse on very hot days when your bike is cycling the fan and you're in traffic. If the clattering sounds louder than normal, it's probably time to pull your alternator and take a look.
JD Planned Maintenance :shock: :lol:
Busted. :oops:
Just like wanking in the shower. I've never done it and I'll never do it again. :lol:
Lucky you. Removing the broken bolt is usually the hardest part.
Yeah check after a while. I recall the spline goo I used the first time didn't hold up so I had to regoo it with a different goo. But not in the shower.
Bolt wasn't broken just loose. And 10.8 grade. So I just reinstalled it.
Quote from: "JetdocX"Busted. :oops:
Just like wanking in the shower. I've never done it and I'll never do it again. :lol:
An Aussie said to me " I never sh@gged a man but I sh@gged a bloke who had" apologies for this getting silly. :oops: