or Yet Another Prey Item
That's how I feel anyway, because this newly aquired 97 Tigger of mine is killing me.
Hi my name is Bruce, and I am restoring a 97 Tiger 900 that has been rotting in a damp barn for 10 years, neither ridden nor moved. It's a total basket case, but is proving to be an interesting project. On what engineering principle these bikes were designed on completely elludes me. I'll have to post the pics up somewhere and give a running report, because this task to date has been hilarious. Suffice it to say I have had to literally cut the engine out of the frame. Even the ignition barrel had seized. Why am I doing this? To teach my boy really, its fun time together. Why am I here? Well, after cutting everything away, perhaps I was too hasty on the front sprocket nut. After bending a torque bar trying to undo it I surmised it had also rusted on to whipped out the grinder again. Turns out it was just fine, but on a bit tight. I see here it's meant to be a bit tight....like bust a gut and pop a hernia tight....well my tools cost more than a nut, so perhaps a grinder was the best call after all. Any way. Seeing as I will be robbing you of some wisdom, I thought it polite to give something back. Whether that be a laugh at my folly or lessons learnt along the way....who knows. But it is nice to be here.
HELLO!
PS This DAR thing....well I cant get my alternator off either. 5 x T40 bits later, I am cursing big time. Tried WD40, Impact driver, pneumatic impact driver, MAP gas I even got on my knees and begged , prayed and cursed, but the top bolt on the alternator aint comming off. This one I dont want to cut, grind or drill. The price of error may be to high. Any advice would be most welcome :oops:
even if the bolt is not bonded to the case by corrosion they come out very very hard the first time around ...................what quality are the torx bits
cheaper ones break very easy on the alternator bolts
if you can get a small chisel on it and drive it in the direction to loosen (CCW) it should break free and then be able to remove with torx bit
they are a bugger .
Hmmm resurrecting dead steamers....like Sgt Shultz, I know nuffinck!
But welcome anyway, cheering you and your boy on
Well the last one to break cost me £9. Which aint cheap. As far as quality goes, I think all the torque heads are a bit brittle tbh. I will try a chisel as advised. My biggest fear is that the bolt head shears off as I am unconvinced that my stud extractor chuck will perform any better than a torque driver and drilling the bolt out and then inserting a helicoil ....well should the drill bit wander I will be stuffed big time. The side and bottom came out real easy.....but I see the top one is notorious for being tight.
I have restored a lot of bikes. This one, and it seems I am not alone here, seems to have so many flawed idiosyncrasies, that if I dont make it a labour of love, the bike is going in the skip. Did Triumph design it so that the owner is forced to take it to the dealers or what? Just to get the lump out I had to remove the clutch slave, water pump and oil filler side plate just to remove the wires for oil and side stand sensor. Just to change the front sprocket it would seem necessitates a oil and filter change. WTF!? Was the designer an alcoholic?
She's in a right state
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00381-20100313-1434.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00382-20100313-1435.jpg)
Took a jet wash to her and the paint just fell off...rotten underneath
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00388-20100314-2017.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00390-20100314-2018.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00388-20100314-2017-1.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00387-20100314-2017.jpg)
Starting to cut the lump out. No bolt escaped corrosion, least of all these. Just hope the stud extractor pulls these babies out or the fat lady gonna squeal.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00395-20100320-1338.jpg)
rims are FUBAR
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00386-20100314-2016.jpg)
Ignition barrel knackered and has sheer bolts AAAAAAAHAHHHHHHHHH!!!!
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00391-20100314-2019.jpg)
Did the Carbs. They had completely seized up. Getting them out was a real pest because the throttle cable is mounted where only a very small pick pocket artist could conceivably reach. And no return cable. WTF!!! I hope they never jam open please doG
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00389-20100314-2018.jpg)
more to follow.....
I had my throttle jam open :shock: a couple of years ago. Story's still on here somewhere....
Welcome by the way, and good luck. I - like you - like a challenge!!
:new_popcornsmiley
Thanks for the welcome guys.
Yes Bob, this one is a challenge for sure. Nothing I have touched so far has been without defect. Except so far the starter motor and alarm. First thing I did with her before starting was see if the motor would turn or if it too was fubar. Well it took the biggest battery I had to turn her and all the time the alarm was going off. The battery in the key fob had gone flat. Joy of joys I think the innards are still in working order and that this may in the end be a largely cosmetics job with a bit of spannering but lets not jinx it.
All this corrosion, have it been driven on salty roads, or had a dip in the Atlantic? :shock:
Quote from: "BruKen"......... and I am restoring a 97 Tiger 900 that has been rotting in a damp barn for 10 years, neither ridden nor moved................
:shock:
As steamers go that's not too bad! :shock:
Riding: You swear it's bloody great and you'll never part!
Mantaining: Every bloody part will make you swear!
Good luck and have fun with the work - It'll be worth it!
Hi Bruce, looking foward to seeing how you get on with it, good luck mate....
Where are you in the UK?, I have a large garage with compressor, etc,etc... that you're quite welcome to use if you're anywhere near me..... as is anyone else on this site who wants somewhere to work... dry, lots of tools, coffee, micky taking, etc etc :lol:
Good luck on this project and please keep posting as to your progress.
:occasion14
Welcome, you do that for fun? :lol:
Welcome, I take my hat off to you, that'll be my "You bought that and are spending how much rebuilding it" hat. When you're in the funny farm it's good to have company, doesn't look so odd when you start talking to yourself :lol:
Patience is the key but you probaly already know that having done previous restorations, working with a youngster makes it harder, patience only seems to come with age. In my yoof I thought my elder mentors were just lazy, now I know better :oops:
I often find alternate tightening and slackening will work with really stubborn set screws, that's if the torque wrench elbow doesn't fail and I sheer it. The trick with heating is not to be tempted to try slackening it while it's hot, let it cool, then heat cycle it again, repeated heat cool cycles is another technique that I have had success with moving stuff that has been soaked in sea water for years, sometimes it takes days. My theory is that it gradually breaks down all the growth that has built up in the clearances.
I'd be tempted to push that into a bath of Plus Gas and leave it for a week if the finances allowed the purchase of that much Plus Gas :wink: oh and that the wheels still turn.
I just got the invoice for all the spares I ordered from Jack Lilley :shock:
:new_popcornsmiley
aloha bro, welcome aboard and goooood luck. i think you and your boy will have a blast and when it's done and running, it will be all worth it 8) you picked the right place to ask questions.
Welcome, and good luck with your project.
Quote from: "Geoff D"Hi Bruce, looking foward to seeing how you get on with it, good luck mate....
Where are you in the UK?, I have a large garage with compressor, etc,etc... that you're quite welcome to use if you're anywhere near me..... as is anyone else on this site who wants somewhere to work... dry, lots of tools, coffee, micky taking, etc etc :lol:
Ditto, if you're close enough I'm happy to come round, drink your tea and add a healthy dose of micky-taking :lol:
35 yrs in RAF workshops have made me fairly handy with tools as well :wink:
Wow. Thanks for all the warm welcomes and encouragement guys :D
That is a very kind offer to use your garage too Geoff and you too Bob!. I am rather particular about my own tools so can really appreciate the generosity. As it is I am in the North West in Lymm, just a stones throw from the Vincent motorcycle barn....ahem factory. You wouldn't believe that such a prestigious brand has such a humble shed. Fabulous place to gawk through though. As it is, I have an adequate tool collection that will see me through the job but the offer of coffee and mick taking I will take up soon. :wink:
Sin-Tiger....ah ha! OK I had always heated the bolt up and tried to undo it hot. As you can see below, this bolt has driven me nuts and I now have the added woe of having a tip of the torque bit firmly stuck in. I have blisters on my tongue from sheer stress and frustration :lol:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00402-20100323-2308.jpg)
Anyway I had loosened the lump this weekend but was struggling to get it out the frame. My boy is too young to help there so had to rope in a few friends to try and get it out. We struggled for a while until we worked out that it cant drop out but has to be lifted and then twisted out. That is a new one for me.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00396-20100323-2241.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00397-20100323-2242.jpg)
I still cant believe I cut the front sprocket nut off. I should have come here first :oops:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00400-20100323-2305.jpg)
I still cant believe you have to part dismantle the engine to drop her. Being a Saffer and not an Englishman I have written this off as typical Brit eccentricity :?
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00399-20100323-2243.jpg)
Well. We wait for the weekend now when we will degrease, paint strip and spot blast the block in readiness.
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"Welcome, I take my hat off to you, that'll be my "You bought that and are spending how much rebuilding it" hat.
Dont tell my Missus OK! She still hasn't forgiven me for buying a TIG welder so I could make my own dodgy ali panniers after she found you could buy el cheapo's for just £400 for a pair. Every year when BOC sends the Argon bottle rental charge we go through a very special anniversary when she off loads steam and I get none. :roll:
That was when I rebuilt this honey
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(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/KIF_8940.jpg)
Did you know cutting 5251 ali sheet with a plasma torch was a bad idea? I didn't :cry:
and as you can see my home made sheet metal bender worked a treat but now blights the driveway much to Madams ire.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/KIF_8942.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00384-20100313-1436.jpg)
my panniers are on the left here. Still looking for a decent pipe bender 2 years later to make a nice frame :oops: Madame restricted my budget and square tube has too much flex and fatigue issues
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00385-20100314-1131.jpg)
but I digress.
I am sure you will have that Tiger purring pretty soon! :thumbsup
And it seems like its the same thing with this "new" Triumphs, as with the old ones. By owning one, you are becoming a very skilled mechanic in a year or so. :qgaraduate
Seeing you have a decent welding rig, and since having the tip of the torx bit stuck in the bolt head is going to make it VERY difficult to drill, I'd get a bit of steel bar the same dia as the bolt head, chamfer the end to give you plenty of undercut, then weld it to the bolt head. Should give you much more purchase. Obviously, do something useful to the other end so you can get a grip on it - hex or similar, and clean up the bolt head before you weld it on....
Yup, that is the last resort plan at present. The only thing holding me back is that I'd only safely be able to weld one third of the bolt head. A Tig weld seam is great for working on because it is usually softer than the surrounding metals. However this and the fact that there is not enough available surface area to weld to safely makes me a bit reluctant until all other avenues are exhausted, as I dont think the weld will be big enough to hold if I am already breaking tools on the bolt.
Would it give you better weld to weld a bolt to original stuck one.... head to head... screw a nut onto the installed bolt and weld the threads next to the nut so it cant spin? Cut bolt so you don't need a deep socket.
Before trying to remove it.... soak it in penetrant repeatedly
aarrgghh Bruce, is that a 3AJ Tenere you got there???? I've been looking for
one as as a project for ages now :shock:
It is indeed a 3AJ Geoff. A 88 blue one but I didn't care for the blue colour scheme so did it in British Racing Green and replaced all the plastic bits with fibre glass using the original plastic bits as a plug. They were cracked and perished anyway.
If you are interested I have been toying with the idea of selling her to make room. She is in good nick as the restore was three years ago. Engine is mint. The rest is good not mint. I fitted a kickstart to her and have spare tanks, carbs and bits. It would be a good project to restore to original because you know the bike is sound. Well it will be next week when I get a new regulator. It is on the way out and will flatten the battery (0.05Amp draw). If you are interested, give us a shout.
Quote from: "coachgeo"Would it give you better weld to weld a bolt to original stuck one.... head to head... screw a nut onto the installed bolt and weld the threads next to the nut so it cant spin? Cut bolt so you don't need a deep socket.
Before trying to remove it.... soak it in penetrant repeatedly
Yep, that might just work better, I might also end up just tearing the head off the stuck bolt due to the heat tempering of the weld.
I managed to get the broken bit head out earlier and promptly broke another it its place. The punch - chisel deal deformed the head but didn't budge it. I think welding may end up being the answer but I am real loathe to use up my last option. Kinda like the aforementioned sprocket nut fiasco. If the weld doesn't work I am back to the drill scenario and based on the length of the HT bolt you just know the drill bit will wander.
If you use an 8mm drill bit and just drill the head off the 8mm bolt I am betting that the rest of the bolt can be easily removed once the tension of capturing the alternator is released . and with the alternator removed there should be enough of the shaft sticking out proud of the case to simply unscrew it . a lot of times it will come out with nothing more than your fingertips , worst case it will need a pair of locking pliers (vice grips)
You may well be right Mustang. Certainly that is true for steel into steel bolts. This one I believe has corroded in and as I said before I doubt then a stud extractor (vice grips? You heathen :) )will work. Remember guys this is breaking the very tool designed to remove it. The tool is not breaking it which is the normal state of affairs.
My heavy duty stud extractor. I bought this in anticipation for doing just as you said and of course the exhaust studs
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00403-20100324-2036.jpg)
Quote from: "BruKen"If you are interested I have been toying with the idea of selling her to make room. She is in good nick as the restore was three years ago. Engine is mint. The rest is good not mint. I fitted a kickstart to her and have spare tanks, carbs and bits. It would be a good project to restore to original because you know the bike is sound. Well it will be next week when I get a new regulator. It is on the way out and will flatten the battery (0.05Amp draw). If you are interested, give us a shout.
I am interested :lol: Actually just been & bought a brand new 660 Tenere tonight, haven't got it yet, pick it up in a week or two.
If you are sure, pm me your details, will ring you & maybe pop over easter week if you're around.
Hi Geoff. PM sent... I think. Had a bit of trouble.
Quote from: "BruKen"(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00402-20100323-2308.jpg)
Not trying to teach my granny how to suck eggs here but how hot have you got this bolt Bruce?
If it was me I would put a wet rag on the casing near the bolt to keep it cool, heat the bolt up as fast as possible, cherry red with a welding torch, let it cool down & heat it again, cool it off fast with water then use a impact driver on it.
Don't get me wrong guys, I am not being deliberately obstinate here and I do appreciate all tips and advice given. I need to be taught here. If I had known how to do it, it would be out. I am just cautious.... Read scared of f.....ing it up. I am an enthusiastic amatuer Fred in his Shed type fella. F....ing things up is what I am best at. Throwing buckets of money to rectify my mistakes afterwards is my second best talent.
Geoff. I will give your trick a go sans the wet rag. Ever see what happens to a TIG torch when it hits water. No I haven't either. The explosion knocked me over. Lesson learnt.
Ah, thought you were using oxy acetylene..... :lol:
Ah no. Oxy + MAP is the best I have on tap and it isn't industrial enough for that kind of sustained heat output. Use it for silver soldering and other light work repairing petrol tanks and the like.
Hi Geoff
Thought you might like to see some pics of the bike
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/December/CIMG3724.jpg) (http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/December/?action=view¤t=CIMG3724.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/December/CIMG3726.jpg) (http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/December/?action=view¤t=CIMG3726.jpg)
Bruce
are you a member on maximum bikes ?
That yamaha looks familiar ...................... :wink:
I agree with Mustang on drilling the head off the bolt. Then you will have direct access to the threads to allow penetrating oil to soak in. The way it is now you cant be sure the oil is even getting past the bolt head. Kroil is highly regarded, as is PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench.
Welcome. Excellent report and pics BTW
Quote from: "Mustang"Bruce
are you a member on maximum bikes ?
That yamaha looks familiar ...................... :wink:
Maximumbikes is a whole different galaxy in this universe. Ja hey, there I am cast under a completely different role as the forum's village idiot and ne'er do well, but then I know most of the guys personally too. It's a small site. None of that here, this is serious business. But yes, that is indeed The Green Queen, there is only one.
Quote from: "nightrunner"I agree with Mustang on drilling the head off the bolt. Then you will have direct access to the threads to allow penetrating oil to soak in. The way it is now you cant be sure the oil is even getting past the bolt head. Kroil is highly regarded, as is PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench.
Welcome. Excellent report and pics BTW
OK, I will bite the bullet. I didn't want to use up last resort type methods until all else had failed.
Quote from: "BruKen"Quote from: "Mustang"Bruce
are you a member on maximum bikes ?
That yamaha looks familiar ...................... :wink:
Maximumbikes is a whole different galaxy in this universe. Ja hey, there I am cast under a completely different role as the forum's village idiot and ne'er do well, but then I know most of the guys personally too. It's a small site. None of that here, this is serious business. But yes, that is indeed The Green Queen, there is only one.
Aha ..............I thought so I'd recognize the Green Queen anywhere !
Whooooo hoooooo! Thank you Geoff
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00405-20100325-1851.jpg)
doG hates me :(
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00406-20100325-1851.jpg)
Aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh FUDGE!!! (Well close as damnit)
Quote from: "BruKen"(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/December/CIMG3726.jpg) (http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/December/?action=view¤t=CIMG3726.jpg)
This is what it will look like, no more green 8) (not that there's owt wrong with green :roll: )
(http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz11/G30ff/Geoff/Tenere.jpg)
Quote from: "BruKen"Whooooo hoooooo! Thank you Geoff
No probs, you're welcome, keep at it, you'll get there...
Back to blue eh? Well the poor Green Queen, from royalty back to the rank and file :)
Nevermind, you may as well start researching 2 dastardly issues. Paint colour code and decals. Where to get the original decals while avoiding exhorbitant dealer shelf prices I can help you with, but colour code for blue, you are on your own, plenty have scoured the internet and not found the answer. Me included. Everything else I have, including somewhat worse for wear yellow fork gators
Or even better still, like this...
(http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz11/G30ff/Geoff/Gauloises.jpg)
:D
Now that would be very nice. So you going to get yourself the Mikuni carbs off the raptor, shave the head and put the TT barrel , slipper piston and cams in. (BTW I have a nasty noisy race can to go with it) ?
I'd love to see how she performed then. Go like stink :twisted:
I like this thread, maybe we need a rebuild nutters thread just to give Jetdocx a laugh :ImaPoser
I'm waiting for a guy to come round to buy some of my Varadero accessories so that I can fund my Steamer addiction, things are getting serious. :wink:
Damn I miss having a garage :cry:
Normally I enjoy tinkering in the garage :D the occaisional challenge is spice, but hooboy, never had a tigger before or a bike that was so irrascible. Got to say tho, developing a soft spot for the old girl
......
BTW Geoff, the voltage reg has arrived so will have the Yammy ready to ride away when ever you are ready.
Bruce
you certainly have your work cut out for you with that corroded excuse of a tigger , tis a shame someone let it be neglected so badly for being low miles
if the outside bits are that corroded , I am thinking that you are going to have some valves that are pretty well stuffed too , from corrosion .
and probably some suspension bearings like swingarm and shock linkage as well as steering head bearings might all be rusty critters too .
The older tiggers (steamers) are somewhat of a challenge to work on when they are in good shape , let alone the condition of your wet barn find .
But they are not that bad to keep maintained when they are in good shape
if you get it to the point that you can ride it , you will fall in love with the triple motor .
You moving the Green queen on to new ownership ??????
Hi Mustang. Yeah, I know I have my work cut out. I am under no illusions. My boy just loves spending time in the garage with his dad. He's only a wee little man but has his own plastic tool set and he bangs away doing what ever his dad does occaissionally stealing mine and having a go on the bike. So, I am not impatient to finish the bike. The time spent together is really more than anything what it is all about.
Yes, unfortunately the Green Queen is going. Geoff has twisted my arm. I hope he finishes his dream, that would be wayyyyy cool. I really have to part ways with her. With a young family I dont ride as much as I would like and so one bike is all I require. That, and the fact that I do a number of hobbies, building planes and heli's, metal work etc and a cluttered garage is very hard to keep in order, and mine is already cluttered enough. Space is premium .....which really irks me because the house has seven rooms and I am not allowed in any to play ...aah well
On a positive note tho. I popped home at lunch time to see my lad and together with Geoff's advice again managed to do the impossible without reverting to last resort (no slight to you Mustang, your ways I am sure would have worked) and got the final alternator bolt out.
Cherry red on the heat chaps and ....for me at least....while it is hot cool it down with liberal WD40...wicks the oil up like a sponge then.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00407-20100326-1258.jpg)
Quote from: "Mustang"Bruce
you certainly have your work cut out for you with that corroded excuse of a tigger , tis a shame someone let it be neglected so badly for being low miles
if the outside bits are that corroded , I am thinking that you are going to have some valves that are pretty well stuffed too , from corrosion .
and probably some suspension bearings like swingarm and shock linkage as well as steering head bearings might all be rusty critters too .
I had mine sitting in a garage next to the sea for a winter some years ago, and it corroded inside one or two cylinders. No I did not seal the exhaust.
It ran fine when spring came, but an overhaul a year later revealed the rust. Be aware.
Interesting project you have undertaken BruKen, seen from a distance that is...:)
Keep up the good work.
Dag
I think you guys are having a laugh at me :? with all these horror stories.
It's ok tho. I..............
...............mmmmmmmmmmmmm
Geoff.......................about that yammie.........
Nah! In for a penny in with the pounds. But if you boys want to pass the cap around all charities will be gratefully received and processed at the off license. A bottle of brandy a night will dull the pain.
This should give you a taster for Sprag issue, if you are ever unlucky, and a general peek into the internals.
These engines are very similar inside, possibly only cosmetically different.
http://stanware.digoxy.com/imageupload/ ... lery12.htm (http://stanware.digoxy.com/imageupload/sprag%20sized/gallery12.htm)
Good luck
Don't have nightmares!
Quote from: "BruKen"Where to get the original decals while avoiding exhorbitant dealer shelf prices I can help you with, but colour code for blue, you are on your own, plenty have scoured the internet and not found the answer. Me included.
Oh, you should've said Bruce :roll:
Yamaha Faraway blue..... Yamaha paint code...00NJ
Quote from: "Geoff D"Oh, you should've said Bruce :roll:
Yamaha Faraway blue..... Yamaha paint code...00NJ
oh! :?
I'm beginning to question my competence
:?
How to develop a low self esteem 101. ....Nay say Geoff
Thanks MimBox. Before starting the job I thought to turn the motor over on the starter. Seems alright and based on that I dont think the cylinders rusted. Maybe some flashing but nothing catastrophic.................touch wood.
Quote from: "BruKen"I think you guys are having a laugh at me :? with all these horror stories.
Not at you,,,, WITH you!!! Subtle but very important difference. Most on here will take the mick now and then (oh alright, most of the time) but I can't think of anyone that would do any worse or intentionally offend. :wink:
I know, and trust me, I have extremely thick skin on account of being a bit dim, so...
It's leaking!!
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00408-20100326-2349.jpg)
:P
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Not at you,,,, WITH you!!! Subtle but very important difference. Most on here will take the mick now and then (oh alright, most of the time) but I can't think of anyone that would do any worse or intentionally offend. :wink:
Here here..... and actually I think most of us are pretty impressed with what you've taken on.... :thumbsup
dude, is that thing raining corosion????? :shock:
:D Its a good sign when your Triumph is leaking! Then you know its still some oil in there....
Leaking oil? I should be so lucky. First prize goes to the gent who correctly answered corrosion. Oh dear :(
Well I am absolutely knackered, my skin is burning from Nitromors paint remover, my ears and eyes are full of sand from the sand blaster ( glass beads...me? Get stuffed I'm a cheap booger) and my palm is raw where I accidently got in the way of the spot blaster IDIOT! Oh and I am soaked to the bone from the pressure washer too.
But!!
Nearly there.....
Sand blasted
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00409-20100327-1627.jpg)
Nitromors, wire brush corrosion buff and spray down
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00410-20100327-1711.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00411-20100327-1712.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00412-20100327-1712.jpg)
And this is my boy proudly displaying his hard days work. Shame on you dad you loafer!
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00413-20100327-1759.jpg)
Now for the more detailed painstaking buff and prep for spraying.
BTW what size plug spanner for the tigger? I thought I had them all....obviously not.
the only thing I have found that works is the one that came in the tool kit .
:shock:
What size is it? I can make a tool to fit if I have the size then.
18 mm is what fits the plug
Thanks Mustang. You sure know your tiggers :)
Thanks Mustang and a bit of MAP and silver solder
One
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00414-20100327-2216.jpg)
Two and three :)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00415-20100327-2220.jpg)
I say plugs look a little bit black and oily :(
thasa good job ya doin there bruken. id polish that engine be a shame t paint it ;)
I am tempted but seeing how vulterable this magnesium alloy is to corrosion I have to put something on. The main crank halves and block are of a better alloy but the covers are of very poor qualitity metallurgy.
Well, got the head of today expecting to see the wetliners in a horrible state and was surprised to see that not only were they in excellent condition but still hadn't been run in. The bike must have just had new barrels and rings put in before being laid up.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00419-20100328-1922.jpg)
Bit dirty from the residual cooland slush but other wise pristine
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00418-20100328-1922.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00417-20100328-1922.jpg)
Bit of luck there then Bruce 8)
Yes Geoff. I do believe so, but I will pull out the micrometer just to be sure
Clearer pics
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00422-20100328-2146.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00421-20100328-2112.jpg)
Thet look brand new...
I might have me new bike for Easter week so might ride over &
see Greenie if you're around & put a few miles on new un at the
same time.
That will be good. Just give me advance warning so I can get Her Majesty out from the back of the garage.
1 x stripped tigger is eating up a lot of room :)
hi Geoff. Got the voltage regulator in and all is back to normal. Charging at a nice 14.7 volts
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00426-20100329-1750.jpg)
I got to feeling so nostalgic over the old girl I even gave her a wash down with real soap :)
Please tell me you don't want her anymore :x
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00425-20100329-1733.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00423-20100329-1730.jpg)
Anyway, she is ready at the gate for you :)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00427-20100329-1848.jpg)
Quote from: "BruKen"I got to feeling so nostalgic over the old girl I even gave her a wash down with real soap :)
Please tell me you don't want her anymore :x
NO :violent1 :lol:
Well while I am waiting for gaskets packs I have continued unable to leave well enough alone.
For me the easiest way to check the valve seats when the head is off is to pour a little petrol into the intake and exhaust ports. If there is any leakage through the valve head they need to be reseated. All my intakes were fine but the exhausts weeped slightly. Probably a carbon buildup, so I decided to do the whole batch as I will be replaceing the valve stem seals. My valve spring suppressor is in Safferland and I am not paying Halfords 44 quid for a one off. You can use a pillar drill, but I prefer a G clamp. Take a 19mm sparkplug or long reach socket and grind away two sides. Silver solder to the G clamp so
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00429-20100402-1731.jpg)
Make sure there are no burrs and grease the socket liberally. You want no burrs and a 19mm socket so that it cannot scratch the spring well surfaces. That would be a bad idea.
A magnetic grab tool is most handy here
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00433-20100402-1742.jpg)
Making sure I remember which valve is which
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00430-20100402-1732.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00431-20100402-1733.jpg)
Finally all out
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00435-20100402-2112.jpg)
Right, reground and seated all intake valves.
Boy I hate that job
Now for the exhaust valves
Any ideas or tips on getting the carbon deposits off without abrasion anyone?
dude, i wish you were my neighbor :lol:
Ken, if you want to clean up that head surface before assembly and while you've got it stripped, but without going to the expense of a skim you could use an old trick I was shown as an apprentice.
Tape some fine grade wet and dry to a piece of plate glass (because you know it's perfectly flat) a mirror works too as long as it's thick glass, then ease the head back and forth across the abrasive under it's own weight, no pressing on. It only takes a few strokes to take of a lot of the roughened surface without taking any appreciable thickness off the head. Make them long strokes, a complete pass every time, so that you treat all the surface evenly ie start with the head on the paper and then slide it across until it clears the paper then start again. Just go careful if you decide to do it.
Thanks Bob, good tip. However the photo makes it look far worse than it is. There is no corrosion as such, just discolouration where there was a difference in gasket material. The bright is where it met metal gasket bits, the discoloured the paper.
Well something different after finishing the exhaust valves.
Concidering how corroded they were I am not displeased
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00436-20100404-1751.jpg)
Almost a mirror finish (note thebreezs block wall) :)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00437-20100404-1751.jpg)
She'll never look new. The object is to make her look tidy. We shall see.
once they've got to the stage when they leak corrosion your options are limited
clutch cover before:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00408-20100326-2349.jpg)
That is pretty decent looking for a rattle can job Ken, interested to see how it stands up on the street.
It should hold up well enough. I used a high heat engine enamel (not ultra high heat) and as I have a compressor these were not done with a rattle can (it's not the spray job that sucks but the eroded subject. I thought it prudent to remove the corrosion but not over polish it down to a smooth base at the expense of wall thickness and strength). What you see is only the first coat, I will put at least one more on. If I don't get at least 3 years before it blemishes I will be disappointed.
C'mon Bruce..... whats appenin, we're all waiting here ya know :roll:
:new_popcornsmiley
Not as impatient as me tho Geoff. I am waiting for Triumph to replenish their gasket stock so I can start the rebuild. I have the engine spread all over the garage waiting assembly that I don't have room for the chassis breakdown.
I thought I had the same wait for gasket sets but when I contacted Jack Lilley they said no they were waiting for clutch plates, now I guess they'll be in a backlog under an ash cloud :(
:new_popcornsmiley
Hows it going Bruce?? you got them bl**dy gaskets yet or what?
I got started on the Green bitch :wink: :lol: sorry queen, here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... =573003... (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=573003...).
couldn't really post it up on here being a yamaha and all... I promise I won't be hard on ya, :roll: not even a little bit... honest
Finally got the gaskets today :)
277 quid for a full gasket set, battery, and general service items. WOW! Gonna rub the coating off to expose the gold underneath :(
Anyway, the fat lady finally shut up so will continue this weekend.
Hope your shoulder heals up nice Geoff.
Quote from: "BruKen"Anyway, the fat lady finally shut up so will continue this weekend.
.
wouldnt be the first bike build ive heard of that ended in a relationship break up :lol:
Quote from: "rybes"Quote from: "BruKen"Anyway, the fat lady finally shut up so will continue this weekend.
.
wouldnt be the first bike build ive heard of that ended in a relationship break up :lol:
Oh please lets not go there, her ladyship doesn't even know about mine yet :oops: :pottytrain2
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"Quote from: "rybes"Quote from: "BruKen"Anyway, the fat lady finally shut up so will continue this weekend.
.
wouldnt be the first bike build ive heard of that ended in a relationship break up :lol:
Oh please lets not go there, her ladyship doesn't even know about mine yet :oops: :pottytrain2
i know that feelin well. i had to give mine me yella streetfighter id built to stop any volcanic responses :lol:
Well, got off to a poor start today. Was about to begin putting the engine back together and for the life of me could not find the 2l of 15W50 that I had lying about to fill the oil can with. Not about to assemble her dry I said to the missus I'd take the boy to Halfords and be out half an hour. Oh no you won't she said, you'll take me and your daughter too and we'll go shopping all together :(
By the time we got back we had visitors :( :(
So starting at 5pm I have only managed to get the valves in and head on.
As I said earlier I didn't want to spend 45 quid on a valve spring compressor and mad one out of a G clamp. Great for getting the collets out, but with it being a recessed head, not much room for getting the collets back in. Bit of grease all round did the trick nicely holding the collet to a screw driver and in turn to the valve stem. Made the job very easy.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00451-20100501-1714.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00448-20100501-1708.jpg)
Oooooohh that head face looks knackered doesn't it? Truth is the face is quite smooth and the discolouration is due to whatever gasket compound the factory added. Looks a lot worse in the photo's but put a thin coating of blue hylomar on just in case either side of the gasket. If it's good enough for a RR Merlin, the Tiger can concider herself spoilt imo.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00452-20100501-1727.jpg)
For the last month I have been torturing myself. Do I go with conventional wisdom and glaze bust / hone the perfectly good wet liners and get new rings. Everything measures up well within tolerance. Conrod, gudgeon pin, piston, rings and liner. Almost as good as new. Or do I go with SAE findings, that glaze busting is a throwback to earlier technology and is now a myth and the only time to hone is after a rebore simply because the nature of the cut is a tight screw which you don't want and honing is the lesser evil.
In the end my tight fist won out. If it's all fine just put it back together.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00453-20100501-1851.jpg)
Pistons in
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00454-20100501-1948.jpg)
Oh now there was some fun. I must have marked piston 1 as 3 and vice versa. Could tell by the remaining gudgeon retaining clips which are on the side wall facing end. This got my heart racing as had I made the same mistake on the liners or not? Oh bollox! 50 - 50 chance. In the end I kept the liner numbering as marked. If it smokes like hell I won't feel too bad replacing wetliner and piston / rings complete. But no point in wasting 400 quid otherwise. ( I suspect I am about to be flamed big time)
The book of words says you don't need a piston ring clamp to put the wetliners on. Indeed there isn't enough room to use one. It was bloody difficult though for the first one and it only got harder as I progressed. It must have taken a good half hour to put the third and final one on because there was no room for my fat fingers to manually compress the rings to slid in.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00455-20100501-1959.jpg)
Getting the head on
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00456-20100501-2049.jpg)
Four stage torque. Please tell me I got it right.
1: 20 Nm
2: 27Nm
3: turn bolt 90 degrees
4 outer bolts 12Nm
??? Some sources say 2 should be 35 Nm
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00457-20100501-2128.jpg)
Now for the cam shafts.... Praying that the shims are still within tolerance. Hold thumbs :)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00458-20100501-2152.jpg)
thats looking good mate :D wanna come do my engine when your finished :lol: my engines gettin left till next winter for a rebuild. jus got me fingers crossed it holds out till then :bowdown:
Lol. You might want to wait and see if I can get that engine running before inviting me to destroy yours too :)
I totally missed this one! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Must have been the YAPI title. "YAPI"??? Must be some kind of fancy new Chinese GPS or something? :lol:
Bruken, you have way more patience than I, sir, and should be commended. 8)
You mentioned not remembering which cylinders went into which holes if I translate the Queen's english correctly? The center cylinder is a slight bit larger to accomodate piston expansion. So if you got it right, it will run. If you didn't get it right, it might get expensive.
Also, valves...I've gone through my own private hell with these bastards. Your engine is a 95, so I hope you don't get this problem. A while back my intakes started their own private recession. So I had the valves out, seats cleaned up, new valves, springs, seals, etc. Less than 6000 miles later I had the same condition. Turns out the seats were too hard for the valves. I had to send my head to Houston to have the seats cut out and new softer seats installed.
Like I said, I hope yours do better than mine the first time around, but keep an eye on your clearances. If you have to find shims three sizes or more thinner next check, you probably have the same condition going on in your head.
Good luck! Your kid has the same look on his face almost every picture of mine helping me out in the garage. :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/Children/Kid-Pix/IMG1854/69601826_j9sC4-M.jpg)
Quote from: "JetdocX"You mentioned not remembering which cylinders went into which holes if I translate the Queen's english correctly? The center cylinder is a slight bit larger to accomodate piston expansion. So if you got it right, it will run. If you didn't get it right, it might get expensive.
the center cylinder liner can only go back in the center .....it's the only one of the three that has a flat machined on each side of it #1 & #3 only
have 1 flat machined on them
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "JetdocX"You mentioned not remembering which cylinders went into which holes if I translate the Queen's english correctly? The center cylinder is a slight bit larger to accomodate piston expansion. So if you got it right, it will run. If you didn't get it right, it might get expensive.
the center cylinder liner can only go back in the center .....it's the only one of the three that has a flat machined on each side of it #1 & #3 only
have 1 flat machined on them
Oh dear. Then we got a real problem as all three liners had flats either side.
My problem was not which was the 2nd (middle liner and piston) but whether I have put piston 1 into cylinder 3 and vice versa as I had labelled the pistons from right to left instead of left to right. I dont think I made the same mistake with the liners tho, but cant be sure.
Well today I have finished the engine
Getting the cam arrows to line up, and then bolt down the cam caps was a real headache. The intake as you torqued it down was always inclined to jump a tooth. Eventually, installing the cam chain tensioner before torqueing the cam caps solved the problem. I did remember to remove and reinstall the tensioner after completeing the job....oer, or did I, better go check again.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00461-20100502-1259.jpg)
The shims were a bit to thick in the end. Right on the cusp of needing to be swapped down to a lower size. To be expected after lapping the valve heads I suppose. So that will be a job for it's first service.
Finaly the head on and grease on the mobile camera lense. Typical :)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00462-20100502-1543.jpg)
After that came the laborious job of cleaning up mating surfaces for the gaskets. WHAT THE F!!! kind of sealant does the factory use? It's dried like glue and had to be scraped off very delicately with a stanley blade. Still wasn't as bad as the head tho.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00463-20100502-1605.jpg)
New stainless cap head bolts and copper grease :)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00465-20100502-1606.jpg)
RHS done
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00466-20100502-1629.jpg)
LHS done
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00468-20100502-1833.jpg)
Oh and Triumph told me a big porkie. The water pump O-rings are not included in the "complete with every gasket and O ring for a complete engine rebuild " set even tho they assured me it was. :(
:oops: Well I am going to eat crow on the liners then .......I could have sworn that the center liner was different other than the bore being larger . but I have no open motors to look at and I don't have the liners anymore from a blown engine , so it will be as Jetdocx said the center one is a bigger diameter .
Open mouth......... insert foot :ImaPoser
sucks to get old ............suffering from CRS ........can't remember shit :ImaPoser
thats a tidy n clean lookin engine :D well done mate :D
Quote from: "Mustang":oops: Well I am going to eat crow on the liners then .......I could have sworn that the center liner was different other than the bore being larger . but I have no open motors to look at and I don't have the liners anymore from a blown engine , so it will be as Jetdocx said the center one is a bigger diameter .
Open mouth......... insert foot :ImaPoser
sucks to get old ............suffering from CRS ........can't remember shit :ImaPoser
I am not saying you are wrong. That would take a brave fella to argue the toss with your expertise. The book of words says this year there is a green paint dot, that year there is a letter B, the next year some other lettering. Seems to me triumph used what ever was on the shelf. As for the middle liner being bigger, this may be true. I know the piston is smaller than the outer two. I presume there are cooling issues on the middle cylinder.
Quote from: "rybes"thats a tidy n clean lookin engine :D well done mate :D
Thank you. I think I made a mistake using gloss though, but my consolation is whatever I have done, it is now better that what it was when I started, cleaner and tidier but not perfect by a long shot. If I had money I'd have sent it to be powder coated. But I am trying to keep the restore within the bike's value this time. Replacing the wheels is going to hurt.
How did you get on with removing the old exhaust studs?
They looked like mine on the before pictures!
Will you use stainless studs? or originals.
I need to replace mine, but they look like a nightmare to do without removing the engine.
Hi MIMbox
Cut / grind the nuts down with a angle grinder untill there is only about 3mm left and then punch off the remainder of the nut and remove the header pipes. That will leave at least 20mm of stud still protruding.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00395-20100320-1338.jpg)
Use a sturdy stud extractor. Mine can be used either in a pneumatic impact wrench or manually. Both methods work just as well. (never be tempted to drill them out or use easy out)
I replaced them with SS Studs and plenty of copper grease.
here : http://www.thetoolacademy.com/product_d ... uctId=1702 (http://www.thetoolacademy.com/product_detail.asp?productId=1702)
oh look found one here to : http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65469#dtab (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_567079_langId_-1_categoryId_165469#dtab)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00403-20100324-2036.jpg)
Bruce that engine looks good mate, how the hell you get all that done so quick :shock:
p.s. gloss paint looks good too
That's a good piece of kit to have in the arsenal and readonably priced, as if I need excuses to buy more tools :roll:
Lookin good, getting my parts soon I hope. Fortunately I checked the water pump O-ring and all the other gaskets with Jack Lilley before ordering, they were kind enough to advise where there would be duplication which saved me a few quid. The price of the water pump was a shocker though :shock:
Mmmm. Working with a TIG welder always makes me nauseus. Doesn't help that I am full of a cold too, so today was an incomplete day cut short by an urgent call for a pm snooze while moaning to the missus about man flu and funeral arrangements. If you moan long enough even the kids will leave you alone to sleep.
I started off wanting to clean up the exhaust system which had developed some unusual patterned rust spots like acne on the baffles and to get that patina off the headers. While cleaning the baffles the weld which joins the baffles to the exhaust literally fell off both units. Seems like a flaw. Problem is now the edges had rusted through too. :(
After searching the scrap metals bin fruitlessly for something to weld over the gaps I gave up and just went all out and welded the bloody lot together by incremental layers. It's a crap way to weld but I only want to stop it blowing.
Headers to be cleaned
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00469-20100503-1035.jpg)
Baffle 1
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00470-20100503-1111.jpg)
Baffle 2
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00473-20100503-1311.jpg)
Gap filling at its worst
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00474-20100503-1358.jpg)
Embarrassment 1 and 2
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00476-20100503-1443.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00471-20100503-1301.jpg)
Ahhh bollox to it. They're on the underside by the rear wheel. A bit of zorst paint and no one will need to know. They certainly won't blow or break. Must have used a dozen tig filler rods.
mines done exactly the same mate. im thinkin of weldin em shut like you have but i have a pair of silencers i could try n use. thing is, id rather not and keep it all standard lookin. speshally as the cans i got are slightly smaller than the pipe that would go into them. hmmmm decisions decisons.
the only other thing i can add is, i dont like you, you got a tig welder :P :lol:
I once did that kind of welding on my tractors exhaust system, and it lasted for YEARS! Its a British made MF tractor, and a 3 cylinder too :D !
Rybes: You dont need a TIG, a MIG welder or ever an oxy/acetylene torch will do! This is what they call "farm-tech" welding.
LoL. I paid twice for my TIG. Once in money and again in a whipping from the missus. Thing is, it has and continues to pay for itself. A wonderful tool to have. For once I can say god bless China. They managed to quarter the price of a reasonable machine bringing it within range of the hobbyist. Mine is AC and DC, has pre and post flow, step down and on AC it has pulse control. It also has a built in plasma cutter and seperate mma (arc) welder all for 600 quid and a lifetime of BOC fondling your goolies. Deal!
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00477-20100503-1807.jpg)
Quote from: "ArcticTiger"Rybes: You dont need a TIG, a MIG welder or ever an oxy/acetylene torch will do! This is what they call "farm-tech" welding.
PMSL yes, farm tech, I can live with that. But I can weld aluminium too, that was where my troubles started tbh. So top trumps TIG :D
I have a Halfords TIG which I bought when my daughter gave me an excuse by demolishing a road sign with her Metro. It's better than stick welding but I still find it a bit of a blunt instrument. I never realised that MIG was within cost range and of course the ability to do aluminium is tops. Now I have to find a way to get from where I am to where I want to be without the Missus's radar twitching... :roll:
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Now I have to find a way to get from where I am to where I want to be without the Missus's radar twitching... :roll:
I don't suppose working with radar and stealth aircraft for years will help you much there :lol:
My cans corrosion pattern was very different, holed and patched half way down the can :icon_scratch unfortunately I can't do anything myself out here or I'd be on it like velcro.
After plucking up the courage and gumption I started on the chassis this weekend. Only got 5 hours in but two things worry me....will I ever get the wiring loom back together without starting a fire and one of the brake pad retaining bolts is stuck in the caliper with a rounded hex drive... Not bad considering the state of the engine.
The begin
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00482-20100508-1852.jpg)
The end
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00486-20100509-1742.jpg)
Got a dead cat to prove a theory?
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00487-20100509-1743.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00488-20100509-1744.jpg)
Now comes the painstakingly slow clean up and paint operations. This for me is always heartbreak hill.
Ken, stuck brake pad retaining pins are common enough. You can try heat if it's safe, but I managed without. Just used a drill the size of the rounded out hex and carefully broke through so the pin and pads can be removed. Then went up a size in drill until the seized head gave up and spun out. Don't go bigger than the root size of the thread though. I think it's a 6mm thread from memory in which case 5mm is your biggest drill. Be careful to drill down the middle though, not off to one side. Good luck!!:wink:
Thanks Bob. I will try that with a reverse drill and see what happens.
I've got that same problem right now with the rear caliper. Heat it, used Kroil to no effect. Drilling next. I think I'll fre the pin then go after the upper threaded portion with the left-twist drill.
I'm pretty $h1te at painting too so I can sympathise.
I have posted this elsewhere but to save you hunting, the corrroded in pins seem to be common for that age Nissin calipers, there were stainless replacements available from Sprint Manufacturing but I can't find them since they have updated their website.
I know this doesn't help you right now :? good luck.
I just read the official service manual. The calipers were supposed to be assembled with copper anti-sieze paste (like C5A) on these pins. I'm sure that never happened.
Well, at least you know for when you fit the new ones... :wink:
Quote from: "JetdocX"I just read the official service manual. The calipers were supposed to be assembled with copper anti-sieze paste (like C5A) on these pins. I'm sure that never happened.
Says that in the Haynes manual too.
Have you tried throwing them round the garage in a childish yet ferocious temper then getting a new set off ebay? It worked for me when I had yamaha's.
Quote from: "nickcalne"Says that in the Haynes manual too.
Have you tried throwing them round the garage in a childish yet ferocious temper then getting a new set off ebay? It worked for me when I had yamaha's.
I used to do a lot of that in my younger, more formidable years. :lol: :lol: :lol:
A bit of concentrated localised heat
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00492-20100510-1751.jpg)
Drill for a clean surface and a dollop of flux
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00491-20100510-1751.jpg)
Some fire and silver solder plus a torque bit
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00493-20100510-1758.jpg)
Voila
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00495-20100510-1842.jpg)
With localised heat I am hoping to have avoided any seal damage.
Finger crossed but I don't think the caliper ever got much hotter that a hundred C based on the bleed nipple rubber which is still intact.
Looking at the external condition of that caliper, I'd remove it, dissassemble, bead blast it, hone the bores and reseal it if it were me. Brakes are kind of important to me, though. :shock:
And I'd definitely replace that brake hose. Did you find this bike at the bottom of the ocean?
Quote from: "JetdocX"Looking at the external condition of that caliper, I'd remove it, dissassemble, bead blast it, hone the bores and reseal it if it were me. Brakes are kind of important to me, though. :shock:
Absolutely Sir, that is my intention
Quote from: "JetdocX"And I'd definitely replace that brake hose. Did you find this bike at the bottom of the ocean?
That is a good guess. Very close to it, you obviously read the first post :)
Brake lines will have to be replaced at the very least. The calipers are actually in surprisingly good shape. Some caliper paint and a fresh set of seals and I think they will be OK. I just dislike dissasembling the bloody things. Always seem to cause more damage doing so. Still.....
Love the little Bernzomatic. I have one, from B&Q,but the air tank is no longer available in UK , due to 'Elf@Safety!!
Got two bottles left, then sadness.
Quote from: "BruKen"Brake lines will have to be replaced at the very least. The calipers are actually in surprisingly good shape. Some caliper paint and a fresh set of seals and I think they will be OK. I just dislike dissasembling the bloody things. Always seem to cause more damage doing so. Still.....
have you priced a set of seals yet ???????????????
open your wallet wide (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/cashwallet.gif) they aint cheap close to $40 USD a caliper
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "BruKen"Brake lines will have to be replaced at the very least. The calipers are actually in surprisingly good shape. Some caliper paint and a fresh set of seals and I think they will be OK. I just dislike dissasembling the bloody things. Always seem to cause more damage doing so. Still.....
have you priced a set of seals yet ???????????????
open your wallet wide (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/cashwallet.gif) they aint cheap close to $40 USD a caliper
Oh noooooo. Please don't tell me I am going to pay megabucks for some O-rings. They are really taking the piss here. I have never before come across a bike so expensive with spares. Even a GS was cheaper. What is Triumph playing at? Grrrrrrr fume!!!
yup it's £20 a caliper from Fowlers. For 4 pieces of rubber ring. :evil:
hope you dont have to buy caliper pistons too :D
You guys are enjoying this aren't you!?
LoL
Triumph wants $450 for the entire caliper. :shock:
Quote from: "JetdocX"Triumph wants $450 for the entire caliper. :shock:
Ok you can stop now. Seriously, I am getting depressed. :shock:
unless you want a left front and then for some odd reason it is $540 for the left front WTF :icon_scratch
Oh bollox. Guess what.
So ..... Anybody interested in an engine?
Quote from: "BruKen"Oh bollox. Guess what.
So ..... Anybody interested in an engine?
Frame no good?
Give the guy a break :roll:
I'll have the engine please :lol:
Seriously, have a nosey around for non OEM Nissin parts, my local mech. is a star at coming up with original parts cheaper than from standard sources. No idea what a seal set cost but I'll bet he managed to get them cheaper than that. I'll have a word with him during the week and see if I can get the gen on where they came from.
Ta Sin. I was being flippant about the engine, tho the price of parts is discouraging when you consider that just to replace the brake systems would basically exceed the resale value of the bike.
:roll: Tell me about it, my invoice from JL ran well into 4 figures :shock:
non-OEM piston and seal kits work out at 35 per caliper from here....
http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/brake-c ... -467-c.asp (http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/brake-caliper-kits-mcyl-kits-467-c.asp)
There are a couple of cheapish calipers on Ebay at the moment if the problem is more extensive.
If you're going run a steamer you need to be determined, resourceful and resillient. Or have a large disposable income.
Well one that came from the darkest , dampest , depths of the shire is going to need lots of love .........................(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/bug_eye.gif)
I wonder what the internal bits of the clocks are like ...................
Have you cracked the forks open yet to see what kind of evil lives inside yet ?
If your calipers are not internally pitted on the pistons you should be able to blow compressed air into the brake line hole and both pistons should pop right out easy .............hell you might not even need seals
Quote from: "nickcalne"If you're going run a steamer you need to be determined, resourceful and resillient. .
yes I should've remembered that from the first tiem I owned one!! :D
Had a word with my mech. last night, couldn't remember part no.s but Honda/Nissin outer piston seals from a 200cc Phantom and inner seals from a NSR 150 SP1 will fit and the rears he thinks were also Phantom. Not sure if those models were available in the UK or US but it's an indication if you are resourceful, indicative cost was less than US$ 10 per caliper :)
Fortunately he has a good relationship with one of the local Honda parts disrtibutors and gets to go in and rummage.
Top Tip from a Top Bloke!! Well done that resourceful man Sin :D
Google is your friend:
http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/10440/in ... &cat=34955 (http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/10440/info.php?p=2&cat=34955)
Well, at least some of the time.....
Mustang, is there a sticky where that link can be copied to?
If I can get the actual part no's I'll post them up on the cross reference, didn't want to put something as nebulous as that in.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Google is your friend:
http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/10440/in ... &cat=34955 (http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/10440/info.php?p=2&cat=34955)
Well, at least some of the time.....
Mustang, is there a sticky where that link can be copied to?
Copied BB's link and NeilD's links to the cross reference sticky for the Brake rotors and pads section.
I have a feeling alot of people don't really look at the stickys before asking for parts though ................... :roll: maybe it's just me
Hi Mustang, I have looked at the stickies in this the steamer forum. Lots of good advice there. It gave me a heads up on what to look for when working on the engine. I had DAR :D
What I haven't always done though is revisit stickies.
BTW are there any others that I should be looking at, because I didn't see where you posted the above?
So yesterday I sprayed the frame and while undoing it from suspension dropped it on my foot. God it's heavy!!
Not to be outdone, while putting masking tape over bits and bobs not wanting to be repainted I damn near sliced my finger in two with a trimming knife from the second joint all the way down to the pad and nail.
Bled like a slit pig and I was home alone with all my gear on the drive. Choice, ruin wet paintwork by hauling everything in to the garage and going to A and E or toughing it out and doing a Nam stunt with superglue. That's what superglue was made for you know.....but it doesn't work. I had to pick out gone-off superglue from the wound while sobbing in front of the bathroom mirror. In the end tissue paper and copious amounts of insulation tape and I was ready to resume.
Blood trail
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00496-20100516-1916.jpg)
More on the way to the door
Anyway got a good finish. Well pleased. Very close to the stipled finish of the original coat. Only misery is the galvanic corrosion where the rear shock mud flap bolts had badly corroded the ali
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00497-20100516-1917.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00498-20100516-1917.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00500-20100516-1918.jpg)
Odds and sods
Also began making inroads to the huge collection of assorted pieces
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00501-20100516-1918.jpg)
Bits too small to hang
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00505-20100516-1920.jpg)
All in all, very pleased with the results, the phone camera just doesn't do them justice. Finally, a paint job I didn't have to redo :D
OOOF! When I get myself into the same situation (which is fairly frequently :roll: ) I use a wad of tissue paper and the masking tape. There is something about masking tapes easy peel of qualities that make it better when you got take it off.
Paint looks good though.
Quote from: "BruKen"Only misery is the galvanic corrosion where the rear shock mud flap bolts had badly corroded the ali
I hate to laugh at your suffering, at least you are getting to do it yourself :roll: can I borrow your Stanley knife please, I have a feeling I'll probably need it when I get the bill for all the work I have to pay someone else to do.
I see you managed to stub out your fag end before you went indoors :wink:
I'm inclined to believe the pitting is due to drips from the battery box drain, mine looks almost identical though I'm sure that's no cosolation :roll:
Don't laugh at my fag end :D they make bloody good filter respirators when spraying.
BTW I always sweep and clean my workspace at the end of a session so I don't feel too guilty.
As for your postulation on battery acid, you may be right. But I'd say that it started off the corrosion on the iron bracket on the bottom of the mud flap. What ever the cause, whenever iron corrodes near the tigger there is a particularly nasty chain reaction to the ali alloy they have used. A good number of M8 holes are now M12 because of it. I suspect there is an unusually high magnesium content to their metallurgy and not enough silicon. Trying to make a fatty a lighty I suspect. Anyway, doesn't wether very well, even if mine is an extreme case.
Hi Bruce :wave
The Green Queen is now...
(http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz11/G30ff/Tenere%20rebuild/004-2.jpg)
Virgin white :XXsunsmile
:P. Damn Geoff, you're embarrassing the old girl. Put some clothes on her.
Nice paint job :twisted: pity about the colour :D, green is so much nicer.
How is the shoulder? Hope it's mending nicely
Quote from: "BruKen":D they make bloody good filter respirators when spraying.
:pimp :ImaPoser I do hope no HSE people are reading this "That'll be water based paints you're using Sir?" :shock:
Quote from: "BruKen":P. Damn Geoff, you're embarrassing the old girl. Put some clothes on her.
Nice paint job :twisted: pity about the colour :D, green is so much nicer.
:pottytrain2
How is the shoulder? Hope it's mending nicely
shoulder getting better, can't ride yet but gettin there
Terrible timing on the shoulder injury. Hope it heals quick. Dont swing those hammers with it, tut tut, that wasnt the brightest move. Top marks for enthusiasm tho. I am watching your progress on the old girl with a lot of interest. It's looking good and you humble my past efforts :shock: . Aah well, I had fun when it was my turn and that is all that matters. :lol:
Bruce got a question for you.. (in fact for everyone) :?: what was the inside of your tank like considering its been stood in a barn for ages. The reason I ask is I've bought yet another Tenere... (yes really) this one is a 1992 660 the cam chain broke about 7 years ago & its been in a barn ever since... its very very rusty :roll:
anyway the inside of the tank (which is half full of very smelly petrol) is about a quarter of an inch thick of furry rusty stuff, you can scrape it off with a screwdriver, ever seen this before??? How the hell do I clean the tank out....
Well Geoff, the way I would clean it out is to go to Halfords and buy the rust remover concentrate that you mix in solution with water. Buy the 20 litre one and fill your tank.
Make sure you have all the replacement petcock seals. They'll be fubar when you are done.
Rinse thoroughly and fill with petrol and store.
Progress has slowed down recently due to trying to source info on how to's
Progress so far has been in servicing the rear shock, front forks (what a nightmare) and brake calipers.
Rear shock is a Showa and turns out to be relatively simple, IF YOU FOLLOW THE BOOK OF WORDS, ( http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf (http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf) ) if you dumb like me you can land yourself in all sorts of trouble.
QuoteRedid the shock this morning and forgot to slide the spring retainer over the shock body. No probs, just undo the shock eyelet at the bottom and slide it on. Like this......
Well I completely forgot about the damping needle in the shaft didn't I?
120 psi of pressure and not only was I covered in oil but the needle shot off like an arrow and I had to retrieve it from the roof. Then to make matters worse I thought I would save myself the effort of not bleeding the shocker (after all I am not changing oil, just topping up) well the effort of pulling out to full extension with the bladder seal on is hard going and it came out...all the way out with a pop and a gurgle showering me with the remaining oil. On my second attempt, being a fresh start I have bled the system and ready to seal in only to find I am 5ml short of 5wt oil.
QuoteWith the loverly jubberly new paint job on the shock the spring seat won't slide up cos the paint has added couple of microns to its girth!!!!. I've just had to nitromors my loverly jubberly paint job so I can slide said bastid seat into position and am currently respraying. WHY ME GOD!!!!
QuoteNot much to a shock is there?
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00525-20100602-1220.jpg)
Bleeding the shock after a fresh injection of oil
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00526-20100602-1221.jpg)
all painted and the test to see if all is well. I'm ferkin brilliant. The job is a good un.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk6gFQf-5gE
uh - oh, notice in the vid how the spring seat doesnt slide down the shock body tho
Strip paint job off and slide on
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00528-20100603-2207.jpg)
Repaint in the dark :(
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00529-20100603-2253.jpg)
Enamel is on, just got to let it settle out into a nice gloss sheen. We'll have a peek tomoz and hope the job is a goodun. Pics to follow.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00531-20100603-2351.jpg)
notice my boys workbench on the left. Now you know why I enjoy garage time
Oh, you'll need one of these with the screwcap silver soldered shut
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00527-20100603-1417.jpg)
Then onto the calipers. Did a caliper overhaul and repaint. Only caliper paint I could find?........RED! :(
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00535-20100606-1925.jpg)
The front forks were a nighmare. Not a single bolt in the entire fork assemble didn't strip the head off trying to get them out. Servicing the forks was the hardest job so far because of this galvanic corrosion. In the end I drilled the damper rod bolts out. Painted them. New oil seals, dust seals, teflon damper rod rings (bush) and Mustamgs recommended 15wt oil....which has still to go in WHEN SOMEONE CAN TELL ME HOW MUCH :(
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00536-20100606-1925.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00537-20100606-1926.jpg)
My garage just abandoned in disgust
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/IMG00538-20100606-1927.jpg)
Oh, nearly forgot. This almost caused a divorce
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs289.snc3/28089_432865407852_743712852_5698275_373738_n.jpg)
:twisted: :twisted:
....divorce... because the smell just won't go away will it? :ImaPoser
I made the same mistake when baking the laquer on my Blackbird's generator housing. I carefully degreased it, painted and laquered it, then baked it. But the heat brought loads of oil out of the casing pores and then burned the fumes into the oven walls. It was months before we could have a Sunday roast again :oops:
And don't even mention degreasing a cylinder head in the dishwasher :shock:
erppppp ummmmm ja well no fine. loadsa caustic soda :wink:
Quote from: "BruKen"and Mustamgs recommended 15wt oil....which has still to go in WHEN SOMEONE CAN TELL ME HOW MUCH :(
what has always worked for me and the showas is to push the forktube down into the lower and then add oil until it is 5 1/8 inches (130 mm) from the top of the fork tube , may take you a couple of trys to get the right level as I suspect you will need to refill the damper units with oil
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "BruKen"and Mustamgs recommended 15wt oil....which has still to go in WHEN SOMEONE CAN TELL ME HOW MUCH :(
what has always worked for me and the showas is to push the forktube down into the lower and then add oil until it is 5 1/8 inches (130 mm) from the top of the fork tube , may take you a couple of trys to get the right level as I suspect you will need to refill the damper units with oil
Thank you sir :)
Quote from: "BruKen"Ta Sin. I was being flippant about the engine, tho the price of parts is discouraging when you consider that just to replace the brake systems would basically exceed the resale value of the bike.
Resale?
I was thinking of selling mine but every time I take the thing for a ride I can't do it I like the ugly thing to much but parts are harder to find.
Like my friend calls it the Ugly Bike that Hauls A$$!!
New Rubber, Chain and Sprokets, side cover gasket, shift shaft seal and bearing $$$$$$$$ :shock: .
Pinched a huge blood blister on my thumb with vice grips to replace the front Cal star bolts the last stupid owner used a Hex tool on it and stripped it so I tried to use vice grips wound up pounding my old star tool into it and a breaker bar, no problem and replaced with hex head M10/1.25 bolts after cutting them a little shoorter..
All in All you are doing a damn fine job for how trashed it loooked, nice paint on the motor..
Ohhh look....
Its Wall-e :D
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NTYtMjAxMDA2MTktMjE1N.jpg)
Okay, 10 points to the first person who spots my assembly gaffe
And BTW, if you ever try and put the engine back in with the swing arm spindle tightenned and can't.... Join the club. Had me scratching my head sweating like a pig trying to manhandle that lump in solo.
Well the build has begun. Spent the weekend putting the engine back in and front end.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NTQtMjAxMDA2MTktMTY0M.jpg)
I had planned on putting in the exhausts last but the assembly dictates they need to go in first so ended up stripping off the front subframe and radiator, sanding the headerpipes and baffles down and repainting.
So far....
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NTctMjAxMDA2MjAtMTM0M.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NTgtMjAxMDA2MjAtMTM0M.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NTktMjAxMDA2MjAtMTY0N.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NjEtMjAxMDA2MjAtMTY0N.jpg)
That's coming along well, mate. I would really like to see this "in the flesh" when it's done. Although mine wasn't as in bad nick as yours, I share a lot of your pain at trying to remove bolts that have not been moved since they were first installed. I wish I had the time to strip mine down and completely restore it - as it is, I am fixing things as I go along :)
Keep the pictures coming.
Bravo, looks good.
:bowdown oh hail to the master.
very impressive.
Thanks guys :)
Quote from: "coachgeo":bowdown oh hail to the master.
very impressive.
Ummm that's very flattering but the master here is Mustang. That man is a Tigerphile, in a good way of course :D
When do you work on it and how many hours a week? :?:
I try and get in a half day Sat and Sunday. But will also tinker about on the odd occaision late at night. With a 60 hour a week job, 2 toddlers and a teenager time is not something I have in abundance. I reckon so far about 90 hours of constructive work. Many more in faffing about.
Thats looking pretty bloody good there Bruce..... won't be long before our cuppa in Hawes by the look of it. :thumbsup
I guess I'd better thorw in the towel and go get some beers now then :friday
:D not at all. Will be sending the hubs in tomorrow to be respoked and new rims. Had quite some fun cutting through the spokes with an angle grinder. When the spokes let go, they let go! Never failed to give me a start :D
I resprayed the hubs on Saturday and left them out in the sun to dry. I was gutted to see a couple of bubbles under the paint. Water must have crept in from somewhere. Even though I have a water filter in line :(
The rest of my time was prepping the bike to get the wiring loom back on and working on the brake and clutch system.
Talking of which, if I had water in the hose line and I used it to clean out the hydraulics there may well be water in the system. What is the best way of making sure there is no water in the hydraulics? Bleeding may not help. Water being heavier?
Anyway obligatory pic so far....
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NjUtMjAxMDA2MjctMjE0N.jpg)
Well got the carbs in today. Followed the sticky and had the job done in 15 minutes. Couldn't see what the fuss was about so the sticky obviously works. I understand it but be a devil of a job though because that's why my Tiger had been abandonned int the first place. What gave me heartache was the loom. I think I must have assembled and dissassmbled the bike 3 times today ytrying to work out its route. Any way, its all done now. Just waiting on the wheels and I will put on all the body panels etc.
Yippeeeee!
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NzQtMjAxMDA3MDMtMjM1O.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NzMtMjAxMDA3MDMtMjM1O.jpg)
Panels etc on, just waiting on wheels. to be returned from their rebuild.
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1ODMtMjAxMDA3MDQtMTQ0N.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1ODEtMjAxMDA3MDQtMTQ0N.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NzgtMjAxMDA3MDQtMTQ0N.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1NzctMjAxMDA3MDQtMTQ0N.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDA1ODItMjAxMDA3MDQtMTQ0N.jpg)
Oh, forgot to mention the loose captive nuts. Thanks for the sticky :D Made the job easy.
It will be a good few weeks before I get my wheels back so .... :(
Thanks to everyone who gave pointers, tips, tricks and helped with answers along the way and the fantastic sticky section. Made life a whole lot easier.
Looks nice! How will you ever keep it that clean? :lol:
What is the big warning sticker in the middle of the intrument panel?
The warning sticker is .... "You're Another Prey Item" or YAPI
:D
Looks good Bruce... bloody quick work there mate... :shock:
and not a drop of green paint in sight :lol:
140 hours and just under a thousand quid and counting Geoff. If she goes as planned I'll have scored a bargain, if she doesn't I have had some good time in the garage with my boy and will recoup my losses on fleabay by breaking her up.
Don't line up just yet though boys, I'll bet she's a goer ;-)
yo MIMbox, you are a hero sir! That was the first startup on your carbs, I havent even tuned them :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmTcxwOjl1g[/b]
Sounds good :hello2
Hi Bruce. Glad to be of service.. Love the sound of a bag of spanne.... no sorry, Triumph Tiger...Sounds just like mine!, and probably all the others out there in TigerLand..
LoL yes, the rattle you hear is a half built pannier strut on the other side of the bike. I started the pannier work last weekend, but couldn't resist trying out the carbs. The motor does make a lot of whirring. is that oil or water pump?
mine doesn't whirrrrr but she whines like a turbo when revved.....I guess that's normal and is most likely caused by the camchain running over the guiderail.
Ok guys, I am not quite convinced or happy about the whirr. Any takers on a diagnostic? Water pump? Alternator bearings? Valve train? Clutch basket? Loose Straws?
( Please bear in mind that was a first start from cold in an engine that has stood for several years and spent the last quarter dry of oil and only run for about 30 seconds, before the carb change, two weeks earlier. )
If I recall right you did not tank clean the block/case in a way that all oil passages would be degunked of varnish from sitting. Same with fuel system (clean carbs but what about tank, fuel lines, etc etc)
Thus before you diagnose anything, run engine oil cleaner and fuel cleaner thru it several times. For oil use the stuff you put into your oil... run the engine a minimum number of minutes then flush and replace with new oil. Repeat this a few times. then replace oil.... run it more..... but replace that oil too alot sooner than you normally would.
For fuel... use in your next half dozen fuel tanks and change your fuel filters often.
IMHO of course.
Quote from: "BruKen"Ok guys, I am not quite convinced or happy about the whirr. Any takers on a diagnostic? Water pump? Alternator bearings? Valve train? Clutch basket? Loose Straws?
( Please bear in mind that was a first start from cold in an engine that has stood for several years and spent the last quarter dry of oil and only run for about 30 seconds, before the carb change, two weeks earlier. )
That's how the beast sounds .............run it !
you will soon love that sound as she comes up on the pipe at 8500 rpm in 3rd 4th and 5th ............
Thanks guys for your input and Mustang for your reassurance. Anybody else want to add what they believe the noise is? I know Mustang has the last word in all things tigger, but I'd like to hear of your opinions too. Does your tigger sound like this? The only time I have ever heard a sound quite like it was after replacing a clutch basket on a XT550. There was a unusual shaped washer plate ( part 26 in the pic below) on the primary drive gear that got damaged and so I replaced with another standard washer to absorb the tolerance. But it made that noise for another 30k until I sold her.
Anyway, so the noise is normal, but what is it?
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/Untitled.jpg)
yours sounds pretty normal to me......could run somewhat smoother though when cleaned & filled+warmed up again.
Sounds better than mine.
I`d ride/run it in for a bit, then see how it sounds. :)
Bruce mate..... they all sound like that stop worrying and start riding :wink:
Quote from: "Geoff D"Bruce mate..... they all sound like that stop worrying and start riding :wink:
:wink:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/IMG00008-20100728-1528.jpg)
:) :) :) :)
Wahey.... you'll be out this weekend then 8)
What tyres you putting in there?
Whoa tiger :D Still got to tune her then insure MOT and tax. Maybe the weekend following. Don't hold your breath tho, depends on free time. I will put conti's on her.
mmmmmmm :shock:
remember I was having a bit of a dispute withe the wheel rebuilder about the rear being an original 17 x 3.00 rim and he wanted to put on a 4.25. Kinda wish he had now. Tyre choice is limited. Oh they make them, just cant get hold of them easily and pay more for the privilege with less choice. Seems the common standard now is 4.25.
Oh well, had a choice of 3 that I could get hold of at shortish notice and have gone for the Tourances. I did like the look and reports of the Anakee 2 though. mmm, whata booger :evil:
Good tyres Bruce, got 'em on mine.... no complaints
YAPI has left the building ;)
Quote from: "BruKen"YAPI has left the building ;)
With or without the Tiger? :lol:
With :)
Trying to find an MOT station that can do her on short notice. My tank vent had oxidised closed and No3 zorst seal was blowing last night, so I got a bee in my bonnet stripped, tuned and finished her. Nothing left to do but get that tax disk and ride. I want to give her a wash and polish and then debutant pics to follow :)
Good luck with the MOT.
Well here she is....
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTUtMjAxMDA4MDEtMTIwNy5qcGc.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTMtMjAxMDA4MDEtMTIwNi5qcGc.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTItMjAxMDA4MDEtMTIwNS5qcGc.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTAtMjAxMDA4MDEtMTIwMS5qcGc.jpg)
Still hate the red caliper paint, makes her look like Dorothy
Sweet, glad you brought up the caliper paint job :wink: gold like the newer Nissin stuff might be better.
Gold? Never! (No offence to Geoff)
I'd have liked black but there was only two readily available options. Sky blue or Red unless I had some made up. I'm sure the red will eventually grow on me
BTW I take it the betted beers are on you? :D I'll be in Scotland in early - mid Sept to collect ;)
Planning to be back in Oct, yup, on me :cry: :lol:
looking good.. 8) another shiny steamer - I'm going to have to give mine a bit of TLC over the winter.. :oops:
Good name for her actually, it suits her :lol:
Red calipers look good :thumbsup
Hey nothing wrong with gold calipers tho......
(http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz11/G30ff/Tenere%20rebuild/Tenererebuild003-7.jpg)
Some better shots taken from a camera rather than the mobile phone
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/CIMG5722.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/CIMG5729.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/CIMG5728.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/CIMG5731.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/iTookThisOnMyPhone%20Private/CIMG5721.jpg)
Quote from: "Geoff D"Good name for her actually, it suits her :lol:
Red calipers look good :thumbsup
Hey nothing wrong with gold calipers tho......
(http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz11/G30ff/Tenere%20rebuild/Tenererebuild003-7.jpg)
Not at all with your colour scheme no. But I dont think gold will suit her. Too much black and silver, they'd still stick out like bling if gold.
You've done a good job on her Bruce, glad you stuck with the gloss engine paint it looks great.
Feel a cuppa in Hawes coming up :wink:
Well when Snow White makes her debutante coming out party, Dorothy will be there :D
hmm might be a while before she's back on the road :5moped
How do you like the Tiger now you've ridden it, bet it feels pretty smooth after the thumper.
Outstanding job!
Comparing the final pics with those on page 1 - hard to believe it's the same bike.
I dips me lid!!
Regards,
Bill
Thank you :)
I haven't ridden her other than up my street and back Geoff. I was unable to MOT her on Saturday. Bit of a bummer but such is life. I didn't expect to get a last minute second wind on Friday evening and finish Saturday's work too.
:thumbsup
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/notwothy.gif)
Love those Ruby Red Slippers , Dorothy
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1EDafL1qUqg/SwSvRUTxwSI/AAAAAAAAA9w/YEIv_H-pfGY/s1600/ruby_slippers11.jpg)
:ImaPoser
Thank YOU and Tigertriple peeps for all your help. I think it safe to say without the wisdom here the job would have been very much more difficult and I would have missed a lot of the tigger flaws like DAR etc which she had. The sticky's are magic :)
PS once the carbs were balanced, no3 exhaust seal reseated and a leak by in a carb boot sealed the back lash a rough run abated. She runs beautifully now with just a whisper of a whirr.
Nice job mate.
Hope my project bikes turns out as nice. 8)
And i like the red calipers. :lol:
And i`ve seen the actual red slippers worn by Dorothy in one of the Smithsonian museums in Washington DC when we visited last month. :oops:
WOW !
Very very nice .......... she's like new !
Nice job. Have really enjoyed reading and watching this thread. :eusa_clap
Fancy a trip to Singapore to help get mine back on the road :lol:
If you pick up the travel expenses, I'll tell the Missus I'm doing a runner :D
Hey Bruce, she's looking good. Congratulations on a job well done.
Enjoyed the thread, and glad to have played a small part.
Good luck, Phil
Thank YOU MIMbox. :)
Congrats on a great job. I´m very impressed.:bowdown :bowdown
Hope she serves you well.
Dag
Thanks Dag and I hope you get your ride sorted out without anymore trouble from the cager and insurance peeps.
Quote from: "BruKen"If you pick up the travel expenses, I'll tell the Missus I'm doing a runner :D
How about the taxi fare from the airport to my place :wink: come on, I'm springing for the beers already, what's a poor Jock to do :lol:
Who said anything about airports? I'll ride over :ImaPoser
Fan-fricken-tastic job on your Steamer! :shock: 8)
thats comin along nicey mate :D altho i am gutted. i decided that you n me was havin a race to see hows gets started first. i lot :( :lol: keep up the good work mate. 8)
Quote from: "Sin_Tiger"That is pretty decent looking for a rattle can job Ken, interested to see how it stands up on the street.
Quote from: "BruKen"It should hold up well enough. I used a high heat engine enamel (not ultra high heat) and as I have a compressor these were not done with a rattle can (it's not the spray job that sucks but the eroded subject. I thought it prudent to remove the corrosion but not over polish it down to a smooth base at the expense of wall thickness and strength). What you see is only the first coat, I will put at least one more on. If I don't get at least 3 years before it blemishes I will be disappointed.
5000 miles later
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/woodhead/utf-8BSU1BRzAxMTMuanBn.jpg)
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/brucekennedy/woodhead/utf-8BSU1BRzAxMzEuanBn.jpg)
only the header pipes have lost their lustre
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/notwothy.gif)
you did good
Looks really good, read the whole thread! Black is a good colour too!
Nice Job! :notworthy
+1! that looks fantastic Ken. I've said before that I think the Steamer looks far more purposeful than the Girly. Might have to look round for a cheap one as a project...
Like I need another project :roll:
Thanks guys. With the onset of the cold snap I have missed her a bit and when the opportunity to go out for a quick blast it rekindled the love affair. She may have issues laden as a long haul tourer with weave as discussed, but as a weekend sports tourer she is fantastic. Nimble, quick and extremely comfortable. I did her as a project because she was available, but I can see why she has such a loyal fan base.
Quote from: "BruKen"..............but I can see why she has such a loyal fan base.
It's the absolute best all around any road type motorcycle ,I have ever owned .
It's big , it's comfy , it goes like hell , does nothing perfectly but can do anything ! :D