Well, my Tiger is about to turn 10K miles. I've ridden 9K of those. I'm beginning to wonder how frequently I need to adjust my chain. I sprayed the chain reasonably frequently for most of those (mostly road) miles. I've cleaned the chain a few times and I just installed a pro-oiler.
How often do I need to check my chain tension? How often do I need to adjust it? When I adjust it how do I get the right tension?
The search didn't show me this so I hope it's not too much of a repeat question.
The Haynes manual recommends checking the chain tension as a daily check. It then contradicts itself by suggesting this is a once every 500 mile check. According to the Haynes manual it's supposed to have 35 to 40mm free play in the middle of the chain. This is true for Girly and steamer models. Don't know about Roadies.
yep 35 to 40 mm free play when the bike is on the side stand with unloaded suspension is a pretty good place to run the chain .they like to be loose
**TIP** When the chain starts to require frequent adjustment it is time to replace it .
With modern oring chains they usually require no adjustment after the first 500-1000 miles (especially if they are being lubed by a chain oiler ) once they start needing to be fussed with all the time they are toast .
40 to 45mm is about right on the Roadie. Any less causes shifting and vibration issues. Dealers usually set the tension according to the book and this is a bit tight.
Thanks!!
When checking for slack, does it matter where you have the preload set on the rear shock? It seems that position of the suspension would impact the measurement.
Quote from: "pizzaman383"Thanks!!
When checking for slack, does it matter where you have the preload set on the rear shock? It seems that position of the suspension would impact the measurement.
no to the preload of the shock
ideally what you want to do is sit on the bike with your normal riding gear and weight and have a helper check the free play so that you have approx.40 mm slack up and down
now when you get off the bike and have it on the
side stand recheck to see how much slop there is and now you have a reference to go by to check it by yourself .
Quote from: "Mustang" **TIP** When the chain starts to require frequent adjustment it is time to replace it .
With modern oring chains they usually require no adjustment after the first 500-1000 miles (especially if they are being lubed by a chain oiler ) once they start needing to be fussed with all the time they are toast .
I agree. I've barely adjusted the one on my 04 in over 17,000 miles.
Quote from: "iansoady"Quote from: "Mustang" **TIP** When the chain starts to require frequent adjustment it is time to replace it .
With modern oring chains they usually require no adjustment after the first 500-1000 miles (especially if they are being lubed by a chain oiler ) once they start needing to be fussed with all the time they are toast .
I agree. I've barely adjusted the one on my 04 in over 17,000 miles.
Yes, they don't need adjusting often but if you change your own tires and go through them every 3K you tend to get real good at keeping it adjusted just right and knowing when it's not.
+1 on the dealer keeping it too snug. All they can do is go by the book unless you happen to find a mechanic that actually rides your bike and then they will be more familiar with it's peculiarities.
Quote from: "redbirds"40 to 45mm is about right on the Roadie. Any less causes shifting and vibration issues. Dealers usually set the tension according to the book and this is a bit tight.
I measured it at 46mm when I pushed the chain up and down to get the largest measurement. Is that the right way to do it?
yep and you should move the bike backwards and forwards checking the free play in several different spots on the chain
if you have tight spots and loose spots
IE one section only moves 35 mm and another section can move 45 mm your chain is junk and needs replacing
Quote from: "pizzaman383"Thanks!!
When checking for slack, does it matter where you have the preload set on the rear shock? It seems that position of the suspension would impact the measurement.
Did with mine, pre-load is what it says- lifts the rear for a given weight and so alters the chain tention.
I sit on Tiggs then check that theres 1/2 - 3/4 of travel upwards movement in the bottom bit of the chain, works for me :wink:
If you have a centre stand, here's what works for me:-
Put bike on centre stand.
With your finger, push chain upwards at the middle of the lower run.
If the chain can JUST touch the plastic chain guard on the underside of the swingarm, pivot end, the tension is right. if it touches too easy you need to tension. If it don't touch at all you need to loosen.
Thanks Blacktiger. I've been looking for the tension measurement from centre stand. :occasion14
I read somewhere from some knowledgeble someone (Stretch or Mustang) that suggested 50mm (2") was better than 40mm - Girly Tigers dont like tight chains ?? Or Im just having another bout of dementia ?
I noticed that mine is also a bit on the loose side (3 inches of play while on the center stand, about 1 inch when I'm sitting on it) and that it makes some noise from near the front sprocket when it is in gear on the center stand. Can't hear anything when riding. Ideas?
worn out rub strip or more than likely badly hooked front sprocket will make noise that you can hear
This is a good thread. Thanks for strating it. Now I have to go back and look mine over again.
QuoteI've cleaned the chain a few times and I just installed a pro-oiler.
Where can these be found? Mustang, are these a good idea?
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/viewto ... hain+oiler (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4311&highlight=chain+oiler)
Forget loading yourself up with gear and sitting on the bike to check chain tension, not that its a bad idea, just not the best idea.
Your chain will be the tightest when the center of the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot and and drive sprocket are aligned. Think about it. At any other point in the swingarm's travel the overal length will be shorter.
Adjust your chain so you have a little free play at the alignment point, add a little more slack for safety, check that you have no tight spots and you're there.
Set it there, relax the swingarm and measure the tension in the middle of the length. That's what you set it to next time. On my bike that's around 45mm
This method works for every motorcycle ever made, except for BMW's 450cc dirtbike. On this machine the swingarm pivot is at the same location as the countershaft sprocket. Thus the chain tension can be pretty tight because the length of the chain run never varies.
I'll also throw this out there...if my chain is too tight the first thing I notice is the shifting becomes more notchy. I noticed it on my Girly, when a local dealer changing the rear tire for me put it back together and actually read the (famously misprinted) users manual that recommends (IIRC) 25mm of slack. The ride home it was a bit noisier, but the shifting was tight and wonky. Loosened up, and shifted like butter again.
Geof
At the risk of sounding like a dummy, what exactly does a worn out rubstrip look like?
the rub strips job is to protect the aluminum swing arm from being eaten into from the chain ........I bet if you take a minute or two to have a look you can tell whether it is worn out or not :wink: