I noticed a bit of a rattle when I picked the bike up but was under the impression this was normal. Well over the past two weeks since I picked it up I have put over 1000 miles on it and the noise seems to be getting louder. Once the bike is warmed up it also seems louder. I have noticed I can feel it in the grips when sitting at idle. When accelerating it smooths out.
Tonight on the way home I noticed a vibration in the pegs when holding steady speed slowing it went away and accelerating it went away.
I took it to our Local Triumph dealer and they told me the rattle was normal. The Kid I talked to seemed to know his stuff but again, my baseline is not up to snuff either.
I have had a couple of buddies who have been riding sport bikes for years tell me its just mechanical noise so I am at a loss here.
Thinking it may be time to pull the Alt to check the bolt. If for nothing else to set my mind at ease.
I will also be replacing the Front and rear sprockets as well as the chain. Anything else I need to jump into form this point while it will be down?
You said you just picked it up. So do you know how long the oil as been in it? Old oil will break down and the engine will get noisy. I would start with an oil change. It could be DAR but sounds like not. Its worth a check anyway.
Mustang will be along soon to add a few ideas.
They sound like diesel engines .............you should hear what a group of them together sound like .
If it sounds like a can of rocks being shaken that is normal :ImaPoser
seriously though the rattle from the alternator if that is what is making th noise usually goes away at anything over 3k rpm and it really stands out at idle speeds
pull the alt (3 bolts) and see if you can pull the drive vane on the engine side towards you if you can then the bolt on the clutch side is sheared off
(http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Triumph/TR-0606-2064.gif)
sometimes it's the bolt #21 that breaks on the alternator side
sometimes it's the bolt #1 on the clutch side that breaks
if you pull on the drive basket with the cush rubbers in it and it moves out towards you stop pulling on it cuz if you continue pulling it out you will drop the sprag clutch for the starter inside the engine and have to split the cases to repair .
if you are able to pull it out towards you then bolt #1 is sheared off
Quote from: "Gungho1989"I will also be replacing the Front and rear sprockets as well as the chain. Anything else I need to jump into form this point while it will be down?
see this thread for chain replacement
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5024 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5024)
and while you have the cover off you should replace the clutch pushrod seal on the engine block and the shift shaft seal in the cover
the seals are cheap money and as long as you have the sprocket coveroff to do the chain and sprocket ...............well it's a no-brainer
they will leak oil eventually
I gotta do the seals in my tigger #2.......... I am marking my spot like a dog or an old 67 bonnie everywhere I park . :(
So both the starter and alternator have this issue (where you have to split the engine case to do the repair) around their clutches, not just the starter. I didn't know that.
The drive basket side is bolt #1? So if bolt #1 is bad you have to open the cases? Is there a thread for the DAR repair here?
My 96 Steamer has a rattle in it I know isn't right. :cry:
Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"So both the starter and alternator have this issue (where you have to split the engine case to do the repair) around their clutches, not just the starter. I didn't know that.
The drive basket side is bolt #1? So if bolt #1 is bad you have to open the cases? Is there a thread for the DAR repair here?
My 96 Steamer has a rattle in it I know isn't right. :cry:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/emoticons/DirtDOG.gif)no no no
the alternator drive shaft is driven by the bikes clutch basket which also drives the oil pump
the starter sprag clutch is on the alternator drive shaft
Bolt#1 is on the alternator drive shaft behind the clutch basket for the bike
you can repair the alternator rattle without splitting the cases . but if you
screw up and the sprag clutch comes off the alternator shaft you will have to split the cases
#15 is the alternator drive shaft
#24 is the sprag clutch assembly
check the steamer how to sticky in the steamer forum
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/viewto ... hlight=dar (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,4997&highlight=dar)
Okay I think I got all that. It's like Sarte's Thesis of the Existential: everything is connected to everything else. We just don't know if it means anything (yet). :lol:
Lol its going to be fun getting into it I am sure last trumpet I worked was a bunch of years ago and a 1966!