I am looking for an electrical modification that had been posted previously. I had to do with some re-wiring that gave some extra power output due to re-routing. Dont remember exactly what but there where pics that showed the old and the new wiring. I thad to due with plugging some connectors that were open..........?????????? :lol:
SasQuatch voltage mod is what your looking for
not on a steamer ............you are going to get about 350 watts of power no matter what
the headlights on low beam are going to use 110 watts of it and best guess is you will have about 150 to 200 watts for accessories
thanks guys
where is it? cant find it
Could try this, using a Triumph alternator from a 509 or 595 Sprint type engine,if your feeling brave!! Fits two bolt holes perfectly, and the drive assy seems to fit the hole. This is a quick test on my "spare" engine.
There was some discussion on improving the connection between the alternator and battery by removing the plastic connector, then wiring direct to battery. It was a bit more involved, but the idea was to remove the voltage drop at the "rubbish" factory connection
QuoteThere was some discussion on improving the connection between the alternator and battery by removing the plastic connector, then wiring direct to battery. It was a bit more involved, but the idea was to remove the voltage drop at the "rubbish" factory connection
This is the one I was looking for> Anyone?
Quote from: "Bob Tosi"QuoteThere was some discussion on improving the connection between the alternator and battery by removing the plastic connector, then wiring direct to battery. It was a bit more involved, but the idea was to remove the voltage drop at the "rubbish" factory connection
This is the one I was looking for> Anyone?
I would'nt worry about it you won't gain any magical wattage and the actual # of people who have had a problem with the factory connection is just not very many
If I remember, Its not directly about wattage, but that when you load the system, if you have any resistance, you get voltage drop (apologies if the rule of sucking eggs, applies here).
Due to the design of the connector, it is possible that you can lose power at this point, if dirty or loose, which will indirectly cause lost wattage, as a function of current and resistance. This will be more noticable as the load increases, and if it occurs can cause the connector to burn, causing more probs.
The other thing to consider was the fact that the wiring from the connector goes around the loom , not directly to the battery, and the cross section of the factory cable is not optimum for the job.
The end result from those that did it, was an improved voltage at the battery when charging, giving a beter and more stable system.
As you say, there is a maximum available power output available from the alternator, so why waste any?
Have you considered that if you do an HID conversion (which is still illegal on motorcycles, ymmv) you will lower the amount of wattage the bike will use to power the lights (and get a few more lumens, to put it lightly, btw).
http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/hid- ... onversion/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/hid-light/motorcycle-hid-light-conversion/)
havent checked that out yet.