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Tiger Time => Steamers (1993-1998 Tigers) => Topic started by: NeilD on June 05, 2010, 07:34:01 PM

Title: Powdercoating wheels?
Post by: NeilD on June 05, 2010, 07:34:01 PM
has anyone? I just wonder if powdercoat will take on the alloy rims? would there be a problem around the spoke holes with powdercoat being too thick?

Sin - I noticed you were having yours anodised - I guess that as a finish it wont cover up any blemises in the surface. Mine are pretty good really, nice and solid but just some pitting where the original finish has worn through...
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Post by: BruKen on June 05, 2010, 08:36:23 PM
Powder coat will take on alloy rims, the longevity of the coat will be in question tho. Spole holes will not be an issue. My answer is based on experience with alloy hubs tho, but I can't see there being any difference. What would worry me about longevity is the smallest gap, scratch from changing a tyre / pushing a spoke through that allows moisture in and pffffff it will peel off from the accelerated corrosion. I wouldn't bother.
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Post by: chairhead on June 05, 2010, 08:53:58 PM
Ive had my Bandit wheels powder coated and for the last 3 years they have been fine,there are small chips and dings,but the coating is great,
i just took delivery of my friends wheel and fork lowers that i got coated for him in black and they look great.
Speak with the powder coater and get his view,he will be able to give you the best advice,im going to get my chair rim coated in black and have stainless spokes and nipples
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Post by: NeilD on June 05, 2010, 09:23:33 PM
Quote from: "chairhead"black and have stainless spokes and nipples

thats the combination I'm looking at for mine...  :)
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Post by: rybes on June 06, 2010, 11:27:43 AM
dont say that. dont be givin me ideas bout havin rims dpone black with stainless spokes. im havin hard enuff job as it is no gettin the hubs powder coated. dam things nearly finished dont wanna pull iat apart again :lol: altho it does sound a good idea :D
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Post by: rybes on August 24, 2010, 12:30:12 PM
had mine powder coated in shiney chrome and it seems to have done the job a treat. they went together easy too without damagin any of the coatin. at the mo there away bein tightened n trued. ill let ya know how they get on when they come back ;)
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Post by: Mustang on August 24, 2010, 01:53:11 PM
Quote from: "BruKen"What would worry me about longevity is the smallest gap, scratch from changing a tyre / pushing a spoke through that allows moisture in and pffffff it will peel off from the accelerated corrosion. I wouldn't bother.
that's the reason dirt bike rims are anodized and not powdercoated !

but for a tiger it should be ok :wink:  , on my 450 Honda not so much !
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Post by: Sin_Tiger on August 25, 2010, 11:08:27 AM
+1 on all the above. I wouldn't powder coat anything other than cast rims.

I sent mine for polishing before anodising (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6803&start=20), they were in pretty decent shape to start with but the minor blemishes came out no problem. The stainless spoke set came from Hagon.
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Post by: rybes on August 25, 2010, 12:19:40 PM
i got told by the anodiser not to get ally wheels re anodised. summink to do with the heat affectin the crystaline structure of the wheel. he recomended powder coatin.
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Post by: NeilD on August 25, 2010, 02:01:44 PM
I'm still undecided what (if anything!) to do with my wheels.. was wondering how robust anodising is vs powdercoat?
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Post by: Mustang on August 25, 2010, 02:21:10 PM
Quote from: "NeilD"I'm still undecided what (if anything!) to do with my wheels.. was wondering how robust anodising is vs powdercoat?

anodizing has basically the same problems as powdercoat

an anodized part is actually clear and only penatrates the first .002 of an inch into the aluminum . What anodizing does is harden that first .002 of an inch layer .The color comes from a dye bath which is nothing more than RIT dye the same you would use to make a tie die t shirt . and then the part goes in to a sealant bath to try and keep the dye from fading by uv light or wearing off .

anodizing only works good on certain types of aluminum alloy , with 6061 being the best , cast aluminum the worst .

obviously the finish is only going to be as good as the part is to start with and the quality of the shop doing the anodizing .

and rybes is correct , the original DID rims are already clear anodized .
re-doing them is asking for trouble as the anodizing procedure is nothing more than dunking the part in a tank full of battery acid and applying a DC voltage to the part and an aluminum anode in the tank , produces mucho heat , the bigger the part the more the heat .
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