Can anyone direct me to the thread showing where to plug in the 76423006 oxygen sensor eliminator? I recall seeing one with photos that was really easy to understand. Just bought one and wanted to install for my 03 955i.
I only remember seeing something on it over at triumphrat.net.
A quick search brings up this:
http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technic ... ypass.html (http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/143011-o2-sensor-elimination-and-bypass.html)
However, it's not for the Tiger. :wink:
shouldn't be too hard, follow the wires from the sensor itself, they can't be too long.... it replaces the plug on the sensor side.
The plug / socket for the O2 sensor is on top of the cylinder head among the wiring for the injectors etc usually on the left side. Easy way to find it is follow the lead up from the sensor till you met a plug / socket joint and voila!! Wiring loom side has 4 wires: white, black, grey and black with an orange dash.
In case you were wondering the tank has to come off to get to it. But then again, doesn't it always??? :ImaPoser
i installed mine without removing the tank....but i do have small fingers.
The dreaded Tank removal. As a self-proclaimed noob I am sure to scratch the tank, break a fuel fitting and probably have parts left over when all is said and done.
This forum and triumphrat.net is what keeps me repeating the mantra..."what one man can do another man can do"
I will probably try without the tank removal first - then scrape my knuckles, curse a little and start following the tank removal procedures.
Thanks for all the help.
Ride it like you stole it!
I have a feeling that on certain earlier models Tank removal isnt necessary, dont know when the change point is though, Chris(Wingers) bike is the early one and I remember him telling me that he can get to the plug real easy on his.
mine's is a 05 955i....took about 15 mins, but i got there :D
Quote from: "oradbaforpsoft"The dreaded Tank removal. As a self-proclaimed noob I am sure to scratch the tank, break a fuel fitting and probably have parts left over when all is said and done.
This forum and triumphrat.net is what keeps me repeating the mantra..."what one man can do another man can do"
I will probably try without the tank removal first - then scrape my knuckles, curse a little and start following the tank removal procedures.
Thanks for all the help.
Ride it like you stole it!
i am a complete amateur.....i have removed (and replaced) my tank and it's not that bad.
So I found software that will let me program the ECU to switch off the o2 sensor - TuneECU - If I go this route and disable the o2 sensor via the software, do I even need to use the o2 sensor eliminator fix ?
You can't do it on the Sagem ECM in Tuneboy, but I don't know with this software, I'll have a play with it later if I have time.
Why do you want to? (I have a feeling I know the answer to that already) :roll:
BTW, this looks like a godsend for all that don't want to spend on Tuneboy... :D
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"You can't do it on the Sagem ECM in Tuneboy, but I don't know with this software, I'll have a play with it later if I have time.
Why do you want to? (I have a feeling I know the answer to that already) :roll:
BTW, this looks like a godsend for all that don't want to spend on Tuneboy... :D
I found this info on a Rocket III forum, plus the freeware, and it seems like TuneECU does have a selectable option for my yune - 10120 and 10121 where I can disable the o2 sensor.
Also, I am not sure that my which ECU my 2003 uses - (955cc Tiger up to VIN # 206546 ) see http://www.tomhamburg.net/TuneECU_En/Tune_List.html (http://www.tomhamburg.net/TuneECU_En/Tune_List.html), but I will find out for sure once the bike to laptop cable arrives.
Some reasons I want to do it (Install the O2 eliminator - I have the plug in part in hand):
1) Having the Tiger start and run on the first try - since new it starts and runs a few seconds before dying - the second start is always good.
2) Less surging and a smoother ride
(Use TuneECU)
3) Getting a TOR exhaust and I want to upload the 10121 tune without paying $75 to the dealer
4) Thought it may save me touching the hardware if the software can accomplish the same thing.
5) Various (unnamed/as yet undecided) performance improvements inspired by the farkling gods.
I found the RIII forum when I was trying to educate myself about my new Roadster, the day after I ordered the dynojet o2 sensor eliminator part. I am hesitant to mess with the roadster right out the door, but after reading all these forums, I think I would like to have a go at resolving the problems the dealers don't recognize after 7 years.
Yes - it looks like a godsend!
I've had a quick play with it today. It connects up ok using my Tuneboy cable and allowed me to read the map from my ECU with no probs.
I then went on to change the tune in my spare ECU which Tuneboy wouldn't let me do without another $100 key. It had a daytona map in it but I replaced it with a stock ofraod map for the Tigger, again it was straight forward so this is indeed a big leap forward for anyone wanting to not pay the dealer for a re-map.
A word of caution though; before you go playing with the values in any of the maps, be very sure you know what you're doing. You can do some expensive damage otherwise.
As I get into this software I'll post some useful tips for others, plus maybe a map or two to try. My own 102 bhp at the back tyre map for a start... :wink:
I initially wanted it to save money on uploading downloading factory tunes.
The R3 forum had me interested in removing some of the limitations - top speed, first 2 gears governor, and as far as the Tiger goes, being able to disable the o2 sensor.
Back to the original question then.. If I can disable the o2 sensor via tuneECU, do I still need to use the dynojet plug ?
PS - Please include me on any perf mod tunes you have for the Tiger.
I'm not going to be able to play with the software O2 disable till Monday at the earliest - I'm off to the Moto Gp tomorrow - but anyway, whether the O2 is disabled in the software or not, as long as you leave the O2 connected, you don't need the plug. All the plug does is fool the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is connected by giving a static voltage (it's simply a 3.3 ohm resistor if I remember corectly). If it wasn't there you'd get the MIL light on all the time because the ECU would think there's a fault. Another way to disable the O2 in the software - although a little more clumsy - is to remove all 14.5 - 14.7 values in the AF map. Having said that, if you're going after horsepower, you want to set the AF map values to 13 first anyway. 12.8 to 13 is best power, 14.5-14.7 is best economy. Above 14.7 is overheating and mass destruction....
(If this is all gobbledegook, Google "stoichiometric" and all will become clear).
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"I'm not going to be able to play with the software O2 disable till Monday at the earliest - I'm off to the Moto Gp tomorrow - but anyway, whether the O2 is disabled in the software or not, as long as you leave the O2 connected, you don't need the plug. All the plug does is fool the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is connected by giving a static voltage (it's simply a 3.3 ohm resistor if I remember corectly). If it wasn't there you'd get the MIL light on all the time because the ECU would think there's a fault. Another way to disable the O2 in the software - although a little more clumsy - is to remove all 14.5 - 14.7 values in the AF map. Having said that, if you're going after horsepower, you want to set the AF map values to 13 first anyway. 12.8 to 13 is best power, 14.5-14.7 is best economy. Above 14.7 is overheating and mass destruction....
(If this is all gobbledegook, Google "stoichiometric" and all will become clear).
Bob
Thanks for even taking the time to test it out. I am in no rush - my TuneECU cables are still somewhere in China. I do already have the dynojet plug though, and was wondering if installing it would be a waste of time if I could achieve the same goal via the software, instead. That way I could also turn it back 'on' via the ECU later, correct ? Even with a slow up/download time, I'm pretty sure it's quicker than dancing the tank removal jig.
Enjoy the races!
No probs :thumbsup
I've had a good look at the software (thanks Bixxer Bob)
I'm a complete amateur when it comes to this stuff but it shouldn't be dangerous to just load a map without changing any values, right?
Update:
Earlier this week I installed a new TOR and used TuneECU to download the correct tune - free.
Bike seems to run fine - enjoying the roar vs. the previous purr with the stock pipe.
I don't know if I noticed any more power, but it sounds cool!
Just installed the dynojet o2 sensor eliminator part. Bob - you were right, I wasn't able to deselect it with the sagem.
Now trying to find the right size bolt to fill up the gap where I removed the sensor from the exhaust. - Haven't started the bike - waiting to bung it up before I do. Anyone have the bolt/washer size handy ?
Bob - I would be interested in finding what settings you changed to get the extra HP you alluded to.
just installed a Drain Plug (Metric) - Size was 18mm x 1.50 (inches I guess). NAPA part number 704-1037 - cost $2.99, plus a copper gasket - part number 704-1356 - cost $.99
I'm not sure how to do it with the freeware. I did mine with Tuneboy but had it on a dyno at the time. For an idea, have a look here:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... light=dyno (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6863&highlight=dyno)
Thanks - interesting thread. My 03 with a TOR now uses the 10121 tune. Comparing my old 10121 with your newer 10173, it looks like the new one runs a little leaner at higher loads (but still on the rich side of 13.0), but also seem to have the same 'block' of values 14.5 from 2500rpm - 6000rpm at up to about 30% load.
I guess if that's where most of the load is most of the time, that explains the ecu's 'desire' to give better emissions/fuel consumption/etc at those settings. It also makes sense (to me) to want to enrich those values a little - say 14.0 instead of 14.5 for a little better low-end grunt, and cooler running temps.? Would you agree ? I've always thought my Girly ran a little hot - living in Texas doesn't help much.
Also, regarding the slow/lumpy idle problem we experience with the first startup of the day - could this be because the setting of 14.5 in the 1000-1400 rpm range is designed to run the engine lean so it warms up quicker? I am happy to wait another 2 mins before riding off, and have it run smoother/richer if that is the case. Also thinking that the 1000-1400rpm low engine load range must deal with closed throttle/deceleration load, and think the popping *should* be cured by enriching again. Tell me what you think, please.
I now have removed the o2 sensor, and have the eliminator plugged in, and wondered if that means I am 'never' in closed loop mode ?
Last bit first - without the sensor you never go into closed loop mode, so your trims never change.
I agree with you on the low revs - I richened mine and found it reduced the popping. The theory being that lean mix doesn't burn completely in the cylinder and ingnites in the downpipes. Richer mix burns better in the cylinder and so less unburnt fuel gets into the pipes.
The mistake we made when adding fuel to my map was that we should have done a dyno run with the target A/F ratio set to 13 across the board, that would give full power everywhere. We should then have worked out where it was rich / weak and adjusted accordingly. Instead we adjusted the fuel map directly leaving the ratios alone. Maybe something to do another day.....
I thought I understood this better than I do. Last night I had the TuneECU/cable connected and reset the TPS and was doing a 12-minute tune - after bunging up the exhaust where the o2 sensor was.
TuneECU showed I WAS running in closed-loop mode. The Dynojet o2 sensor eliminator plug seemed to do it's thing as TuneECU showed a voltage for the o2 sensor and did not have any error codes.
Ok, to be a little clearer, when the A/F map is 14.5 to 14.7 the ECU's in closed loop. But the voltage it's reading at the sensor is constant, because of the O2 bypass gizmo. not varying as it would be with the O2 sensor, so the trims don't get changed.
Seems like a likely solution is to NOT have 14.5 - 14.7 in the map ? So if 14.5 is the threshold, all I would have to do is make a small adjustment - say 14.3 wherever it has 14.5 or higher ? Of course a more radical adjustment gives it more fuel/power, but this is just hypothetical, right ;)
That's what most folks do. Bearing in mind the theoretical perfect mix is 14.7 to 1, it's wise to not run it that lean routinely. Most power is made at 13 to 1 and, depending on what the ign advance is doing, it can be as high as 12 to 1. Dropping from 14.5 to 14.3 is not going to make any noticeable difference to the running, just stop it looking for closed loop.