Just bought a 2000 Tiger. Made a mistake loading it on a trailer. Bike fell over and bent the throttle bar end. Can't ride it because throttle is stuck!
Anybody had this trouble and knows how to fix it?
I tried taking a rubber mallet to it but doesn't seem to want to budge.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4620.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4621.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4622.jpg)
Thanks!
looks like the nut inside the handlbar has moved. Maybe thread the messed up bolt a few turns in there and see if you can move it with a hammer.
If you can drill it or knock it out somehow, you might be able to get one of those "star nuts" for a bicycle headset to work. They come in a 1" size, which should be close enough to work. Same thread size as the bar end weights. You could drive a new one in there.
New set of handlebars is pricey, but would fix it too. Maybe find a used set of handlebars?
new bars is going to be the only way .......it looks like in the last pic that the bars themselves are not round any more which has deformed the plastic throttle tube and now it can't rotate on the bars
I removed the brake from the handlebar and loosened the throttle enough to get a better look at the problem.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4624.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4625.jpg)
Once I did this, I realized that the bar was fine but the insert to hold the counterweight was bent. Put a pipe wrench on it and pulled it straight. Result is not perfect, but close enough.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4626.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4627.jpg)
I actually got it a little straighter after I took the pictures.
Now I need to replace the right side mirror. The ones on it are tear drop shaped. Anybody know a good replacement? OEM cost $70!
Since this bike was over on its right side more than horizontal because the tires were still on the trailer and ramp, do I need to worry about oil getting in the engine? The engine was not running when this happened and I have not started it since dropping it.
Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and have a look see :wink:
be careful not to cut those wires - that's the heated grip wires where they go into the bar... they're thin and the insulating jacket can cut through.
Quote from: "walker"be careful not to cut those wires - that's the heated grip wires where they go into the bar... they're thin and the insulating jacket can cut through.
I saw the wires. Tried to be careful but they do look flimsy. Did not know what they were for. Heated grips, huh. Interesting. I didn't know it had them, but now I see the switch in the cockpit to turn them on. Thanks!
I didn't see it at first in the picture, but the shape of the texture on the grip isn't a stock rubber grip - it's the older model heated grip (couldn't see if you had a switch or not from the pictures). Another good thing you don't have to drop $160 to upgrade.
Quote from: "Mustang"Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and have a look see :wink:
Okay, I am attempting to do that. Thanks to the "how to thread" on the fuel tank removal, I have gotten that far. Much to my dispair it appears that I need to remove the air box and the coils to get to the plugs. I see that there is a "how to" on airbox removal and I expect that removing the coils will be straight forward.
This will give me a chance to change plugs, air filter, and fuel filter. And also disconnect the darn breather hose! Radiator cap too? Looks like the stock one. Should I replace it with Honda Civic one? Replace radiator fluid too? Oh, and I ordered metal tank fittings to replace the plastic ones still on there.
I also need to check valve clearances as previous owner only had it for about 5000 miles and doesn't know if they were done at 24000 or not (nor any of the other services). Good news is the bike fired right up and ran great before I started tearing it down.
Even though I consider myself a pretty good mechanic, I am a little intimidated by the process of adjusting the valves. I think I might ask a local bike mechanic if he would do it for me. I might consider that if the price wasn't too bad. Should be cheaper than normal dealer price since I have done all the removal work already and I am not asking him to put it back together. I might have to buy one of your tools for him to use though.