On the way to work yesterday morning, the tacho dropped out, which I thought was odd, but not terminal. Then it was followed in quick succesion by the speedo, displays, fuel and temp guages and the indicators before the whole plot died.
A new battery didn't fix things ( although it was time) so I pulled the plugs into the RR and stator tonight. Zero output from the stator, so I don't know if the RR is cactus as well. I tried my test on the Daytona's stator and got a good solid @25VAC at idle, quickly rising to over 50. So my test equipment and procedure is sound.
I've read through the thread and the accepted wisdom seems to be replace the RR and Stator as a pair. I'll do the voltage mod at the same time, which should help them not pop again.
Over on Triumphrat they have a high opinion of Ricks Motosport Electrics. Ricks claim to have a RR and Stator plug and play to the OEM units with better performance. This appeals to me as I want to to run heated clothing, GPS and extra lighting this winter.
Has anyone here tired the Ricks units and what do they think of them? They are considerably cheaper than the Triumph stuff ( no surprises there)
CHeers
Check this thread before you do anything ........seems like a better alternative
http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 1392#41392 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,41392#41392)
I would strongly suggest replacing the battery, regulator, and stator at the sane time. Either Ricks, Electrosport, or the rewind option are ALL cheaper than oem Triumph parts.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Thanks all, great linkys as always Mustang!
I think I'll get a R/R and Stator from Rick's, install those, replace the seal if needed then send my stator off for rewinding.
I'm going to have this bike for a while, won't hurt to keep a spare of a vulnerable component
Hi Folks,
I read the Custom rewind thread Mustang directed me to and sure enough, when I unbuttoned the Stator tonight there was a little oil inside.
I think the only seal I have to replace is the little labrinth seal on the balancer shaft, yes? Dewd mentioned seals, which got me scratching my head. I'd rather not go in behind the roto to replace that seal if I don't have to.
Second question, are you good folk having a holiday? I haven't had an email response from Ricks.
Final question. I mentioned my problems to an Australian Defence motorcycle site today and got an interesting reply from a bloke with an '02 Daytona. Apparently the shunt style R/R is no longer used by many Japanese factories now. He has adapted a CMOS style R/R from a modern CBR600. He reports no problems and cool running for the new unit.
Has anyone else gone this way?
Cheers.
Hi Folks,
Further update: speaking to Amanda at Rick's they now have a series MOSFET regulator available for Girly tiggers at $150 US as opposed to $120 US for the shunt style unit. I'm going with a Mosfet device and will let you know how I get on. It is rated at 50 Amps and runs cooler than the shunt type.
Mosfet is the way to go for longevity... but I gess at design time it was a cost issue.
Better airflow over the rec/reg helps too for you desert dwellers..... :lol:
QuoteMosfet is the way to go for longevity... but I gess at design time it was a cost issue.
Better airflow over the rec/reg helps too for you desert dwellers.....
The irony here is that after living in the heat for a number of years the charging system fails when we move to chilly (relitively) Canberra.
I imagine that the oil killed my Stator though.
O.k, parts in, all working. A couple of days to prove the new components then the voltage mod.