Hey all,
i've been considering changing the wheels on my '98. I've seen that a few people have changed to the Trophy style 3 spoke ones. These seem very hard to get hold of. I know there is a bit of work involved with the front conversion.
Does anyone know if the Sprint/Trident 6 spoke style wheels are suitable in the same way.
ta
Gav
hi.. been thinking about the same myself... although havent got past the 'thinking' stage yet!!! apparently the earlier '6 spoke' rear goes in the same as the later one, although its an 18" so maybe need to think about gearing/rideheight ?? theres a couple of ways of making the front fit...
RF9rider who posts on here has had some discussion with Sandy at Triumphant about this conversion, hiopefully he'll chip in once he's back from his hols! :D
Do you know if you can re-use the Tiger sprocket carrier and rubbers? What about the spindle & spacers.
Gav
yeah, that's possible also.
These wheels come cheaper than the Trophy one (but I find them not as gooda looking though).
Check this link....this German dude has done this mod.
And while you're there, checkout how Kevin Carmichael does some stuntwork on the dude's Tigger...SOUND ON FOR the BOS RACECANS !!
Grtz
M
http://www.tigerritchie.de/newchurchride
I've got a spare set of complete SV wheels. Before even seeing this thread I
did a quick measure of the distance between the front rotors last night.
There's an 1/8 inch difference total (so 1/16 per side) so I think the front swap
at least would be pretty easy. I'm going to do some more measuring on the front and rear tomorrow.
Complete used SV wheels can be had pretty cheap. I'll post my findings.
Back from my hols....... :cry:
Rear six spoke wheel is 18 inch diameter compared to 17 inch three spoke Trophy wheels, rear spindle is same size, and the sprocket carriers are different, so you`ll need the six spoke carrier and spacers.
I`ve got a pair of six spoke wheels, just awaiting a few more parts before i can start the conversion on mine.
Front wheel is same dimensions, so you can do the Mustang job of spacers etc the same.
So if I've read this right, to do a rear conversion I'll need wheel, disc, sprocket carrier, rubbers and spacers. Will the original sprocket fit on the new carrier? although I'll prob fit a smaller one anyway due to the bigger wheel.
And on the front it'll be wheel, discs, spacers, speedo drive & fabricated caliper brackets. Anything else?
Quote from: "GavD"So if I've read this right, to do a rear conversion I'll need wheel, disc, sprocket carrier, rubbers and spacers. Will the original sprocket fit on the new carrier? although I'll prob fit a smaller one anyway due to the bigger wheel.
And on the front it'll be wheel, discs, spacers, speedo drive & fabricated caliper brackets. Anything else?
According to my research on it, all that looks correct, although the rear discs are the same size on most of the older Triumphs.
Not sure on the sprocket, as i`ll be changing size/ratio on mine.
As for the front, look through Mustangs post, as i`m going a different route, using Trophy fork bottoms and Tiger stantions.
Forgot the link
http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 8662#48662 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,48662#48662)
Quote from: "rf9rider"According to my research on it, all that looks correct, although the rear discs are the same size on most of the older Triumphs.
Not sure on the sprocket, as i`ll be changing size/ratio on mine.
As for the front, look through Mustangs post, as i`m going a different route, using Trophy fork bottoms and Tiger stantions.
the tiger rear rotor is smaller than the rest and WILL NOT bolt onto a trophy rim or sprint rim
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "rf9rider"According to my research on it, all that looks correct, although the rear discs are the same size on most of the older Triumphs.
Not sure on the sprocket, as i`ll be changing size/ratio on mine.
As for the front, look through Mustangs post, as i`m going a different route, using Trophy fork bottoms and Tiger stantions.
the tiger rear rotor is smaller than the rest and WILL NOT bolt onto a trophy rim or sprint rim
My mistake, i meant to say most of the older Triumph rear discs that use the cast wheels are the same size apart from the Tiger. :oops:
Quote from: "rf9rider"Back from my hols....... :cry:
Rear six spoke wheel is 18 inch diameter compared to 17 inch three spoke Trophy wheels, rear spindle is same size, and the sprocket carriers are different, so you`ll need the six spoke carrier and spacers.
Do you mean the Tiger sprocket carriers different ?
Because I've a pair of 6 spoke wheels that came off my Trophy I replaced them with later 3 spoke's and every thing disc's/carrier etc swapped straight over.
Quote from: "qbto"Quote from: "rf9rider"Back from my hols....... :cry:
Rear six spoke wheel is 18 inch diameter compared to 17 inch three spoke Trophy wheels, rear spindle is same size, and the sprocket carriers are different, so you`ll need the six spoke carrier and spacers.
Do you mean the Tiger sprocket carriers different ?
Because I've a pair of 6 spoke wheels that came off my Trophy I replaced them with later 3 spoke's and every thing disc's/carrier etc swapped straight over.
The original Tiger spoked wheel sprocket carrier is different to the 3 or 6 spoke cast wheels and won`t fit.
Quote from: "rf9rider"The original Tiger spoked wheel sprocket carrier is different to the 3 or 6 spoke cast wheels and won`t fit.
no it's not .........this is a tiger spoked wheel sprocket carrier in a trophy three spoke wheel , plug and play they are exactly the same even the internal bushing is the same .
a tiger rotor won't fit the trophy wheel though
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/parts/DSC_0886.jpg)
Once again it seems i`m wrong. :oops:
It seems the "expert" on all things Triumph isn`t quite the expert they think they are. :lol:
Think i`ll do a little research for myself in future and not be so trusting. :D
Hey all,
Been getting the Tiger back up and running again after 3 years in the garage collecting dust. So far the work involved has been;
3 or 4 removals of the carbs for cleaning/blasting - just about there now.
TT600 coils
engine cases repainted
new Motad Venom plus cans
new C&S
oil and filter change
LED's in the cockpit, side lights, rear/brake lights, new LED indicators.
Xenon headlights
She'd pass an MOT now, but with upcoming wedding I've been persuaded!!!! to keep her in the garage til spring so decided to do the cast wheel conversion.
Getting there with that, just thought I'd try my hand at posting a pic or 2 so here goes.
Looking good Gav,
How easy was the wheel swap, did you have to modify any parts ?
QuoteLooking good Gav
+1
I guess at this stage you had to make the bushes/spacers for the smaller axle diameter of the Tigger axle and do the tach RHS conversion.
Leaves you with the caliper brackets to be made.
What's the neon green shine on the bike ... something out of image which is reflected?
Are these 6 spoke wheels the same diameter as the 3 spoke ones?
If so, can you help me with some exact specs/tech drawings of all modifications you made (because I do not have a lathe I have to let someone manufacture it all :shock: ) I do have my 3 spoke Sprint wheels though...ready to go. 8)
Do you know if the rotors for the 3 spoked wheels still are available somewhere for a nice price (same rotors as yours?)
Keep up the good work !!
Cheers
Markus
6 spoke rears a 18" runs a 160 tyre
I've a pair in the garage, just need a Steamer to fit them too :P
The rear is a straight swap, I've just not got a brake disc yet for the rear. It is an 18" rim, but I've measured the circumference of the tyres on cast & spoke wheels and they are within half an inch of each other so gearing should be pretty close to standard.
On the front I'm doing it the same as Mustangs. I've had the spacer made up for the left, just gotta get the Trident speedo machined down and a sleeve made. Then it's the caliper brackets.
The green sheen on the bike is a reflection of my work hi-viz jacket.
I got the wheels/tyres/sprocket carrier/cush rubbers & front discs from the same bloke off ebay £160 the lot.
Not sure about the availability of the front discs (rotors).
I've got a drawing of the spacer I got made for the front left which I'll scan and post. I'll also knock one up for the speedo drive sleeve.
Best thing is to leave the spindle and wheel with the machine shop then they can make them so they are a nice sliding fit.
Gav
Here are the diagrams for the spacer and speedo sleeve.
As far as the speedo drive goes, I will have to lose 6mm in width. I intend doing this by taking 1mm off the outside face where the existing sleeve sticks out from the body by 1mm, and then all the inside faces will have to lose 5mm. The spinner part will also have to lose 5mm and have the drive grooves recut to locate on the tangs in the wheel.
I've not got any drawings for the caliper brackets yet, but I know they will have to be made from 10mm thick material as the cast wheel rotors are 20mm closer together than the spoke wheel ones.
Hope this all makes sense.
Gav
Looking good.
I have a pair of the 6 spoke wheels, just had them powdercoated, i`m using the 3 spoke wheels at the moment, just need tyres and discs for the 6 spokes.
For new discs, try these
http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/index.html (http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/index.html)
http://www.stealthproducts.co.uk/discs.html (http://www.stealthproducts.co.uk/discs.html)
Cheers Gav !!
8) 8) 8) 8)
QuoteI intend doing this by taking 1mm off the outside face where the existing sleeve sticks out from the body by 1mm
When you do this do you also need to make the gearshaft flush with the whole surface or isn't this necessary?
Do you know the exact width of the axle between the forklegs?
I haven't actually done mine yet. i think you mean the part of the speedo drive body that sticks out slightly where the shaft is situated that drives the speedo cable. If so, looking at mustangs job, it looks like you can leave that part untouched as there is room for that to sit by the fork leg.
The distance between fork legs is 143mm.
QuoteAs far as the speedo drive goes, I will have to lose 6mm in width.
When I read Mustangs post he mentions 3/8 of an inch which is 9.52 mm.... that's a considerable lot more.
I'm a bit confused now about the exact width to shave off the speedo width to get my Sprint/Trophy rim bang in the middle :? :roll:
Mustang used the 3 spoke wheels whereas I'm using 6 spoke ones. I don't know if they are slightly different in width or not, but the measurements I've posted are for the 6 spoke wheels. I'm guessing the 3 spoke ones are approx 3-4 mm wider.
I havent had my speedo drive machined yet, but with the spacer and speedo drive sat in the wheel it is 149mm wide and the distance between the forks is 143mm hence I have to lose 6mm.
Just measured my wheels and the distance between the outside faces of the wheel bearings is 96 to 96.5mm, so if the 3 spoke ones measure up much different then the drawings I've done probably won't suit.
The way I've approached it was to make the spacer first slightly oversize and a small (temporary) sleeve that will fit the other side of the wheel. I then sat the wheel in the bike and using the rotors and rims measured to various points on the forks. From this I worked out that i needed to skim the spacer by 1mm to move the wheel to the left slightly so that it was centred. From there I could then work out how much of the speedo drive I need to machine off, and once that is done the sleeve can then be made for that side.
thx Gav
The 3 spoked ones are apparently a different size than the 6 spoked ones.
Just removed my tigger wheel and the in-between-forklegs width is 143mm (5,63").
The axle diameter of the 3 spoked wheels is 25mm (0.98") whereas tigger's is 17mm (0.67").
So, if I made correct calculations these are my conclusions:
1.
The in-between-forklegs width of the 3 spoked wheels is likely to be 152mm (5.98"). (since I do not have the forks I calculated this from the axlewidth + spacers+speedo.
2.
So, in total I have to lose 9mm width or 4,5mm (0.18") on each side I guess to fit the 3 spoked wheels right in the middle of the tigger forklegs I assume.
3.
The thick part of the LHS spacer when sitting on the bike should then be 35mm (1.38") in diameter and 16,5mm (0.65") wide. The thinner part which goes through the left bearing should then be 25mm (0.98") diameter and at least 25mm (0.98")wide.
This makes the total width of this LHS spacer 41,5mm (1.63").
4.
The speedo width has to go from 35mm (1.38") to 30,5mm (1.20").
The RHS spacer should have a diameter of 25mm (0.98") and a total width of at least 55mm (2.16").
Can anyone confirm this please :roll: :roll: :roll: ..... Mustang?
I'm unsure if the wheel bearings are situated centrally to the rim hence why I made my spacer first and set the wheel in the bike to make some measurements and see where it sat.
If you make the assumption that the spacer and speedo drive have to take up equal space either side of the wheel, and then you find that the wheel bearings aren't central in the hub then the wheel will not be central and the caliper brackets would have to be of different thickness.
hope this makes sense.
I`ll have my 3 spoke wheel off before Friday, i`ll measure it up if it helps, if no one else does it before then.
Having a new tyre fitted.
@ Dav
The wheel bearings aren't situated centrally to the rim. The LHS has a much smaller width spacer than the RHS.
@ my previous post no 1
How I got the unit was as follows from left to right:
spacer => hub/rim => speedo so only three parts just like tigger.
QuoteI`ll have my 3 spoke wheel off before Friday, i`ll measure it up if it helps, if no one else does it before then.
that would B grreat çause I want to get the stuff machined asap this week :D
BTW it's a Sprint rim I got VIN-number donorbike is SMTTC363DMV0433381
QuoteI`ll have my 3 spoke wheel off before Friday, i`ll measure it up if it helps
If you have the same setup as I have you should see the following:
- speedo unit 35mm wide RHS
- spacer 21mm wide LHS
Quote from: "MtheTiger"QuoteI`ll have my 3 spoke wheel off before Friday, i`ll measure it up if it helps
If you have the same setup as I have you should see the following:
- speedo unit 35mm wide RHS
- spacer 21mm wide LHS
Speedo unit fits all years, all makes,so that should be same size.
Yup, just measured my spare axle, speedo drive and spacer the same as yours.
QuoteYup, just measured my spare axle, speedo drive and spacer the same as yours.
OK, thx mate !
But don`t forget i`m using Trophy yokes, Trophy fork lowers with Steamer stanchions.
I`ll have the wheel off later so will post up some measurements.
The 3 spoke wheel is 152mm from the outside edge of speedo drive to outside edge of spacer.
Wheels out, hoping the tyre will arrive today.
Everythings done, can`t wait to try the different forks. :D
QuoteThe 3 spoke wheel is 152mm from the outside edge of speedo drive to outside edge of spacer.
thx for the confirmation 8) . Today I let someone make the conversion in the lathe based on the difference in width between Tigger- and Sprintforklegs: 143mm vs 152mm. In other words shaving 4.5 mm off of each side. Now I'm in business...only have to (let) fabricate the caliper brackets.
Anyone have a tech drawing to scale for these otherwise I have to make a mockup out of cardboard when the wheel is back on Tigger.
BTW: the insert turning bit of the speedo couldn't be machined in a lathe according to the man 'cause this metal is too hard. It has to be grinded he says. Are there any other ways?
it cut like butter actually, ....................your talking about the drive gear , correct ?
I used carbide cutters on the lathe and the end milling of the slots ate a end mill but was doable with small cuts
I've not got a drawing for the brackets yet, might be a few weeks before i get that sorted as I'm getting married in 2 weeks so gotta keep her indoors happy first.
Gav
Quoteit cut like butter actually, ....................your talking about the drive gear , correct ?
If you mean by drive gear the insert which turns with the wheel and makes the wormwheel spin we're talkin' 'bout the same yup...
The bush inside the speedo is cast iron I guess and very soft but the drive gear isn't (and should not be).
M,
Have you got your conversion done? Just wondered how you got on. Got any pics?
Done the wedding bit, settling down into married life. Think I can safely 'disappear' to the garage again now in the evenings to get the Tig well and truly finished ready for spring.
Gav
QuoteM,
Have you got your conversion done? Just wondered how you got on. Got any pics?
Hey Gav,
Now that you ask ..... Today(!) I just put in the rear wheel and a new chain & sprockets. Front wheel has been fitted 1 week ago. 8) 8) 8)
However, I still need to make the caliper brackets and I find this a bit difficult.
Of course I can hobby away with some cardboard and a feltpen and draw out some nice looking shape that more or less fits the caliper. the problem is however that the mountingholes for the screws have to be exact in the right spots. One of them also has to be threaded I guess because I do not have room for a nut. Remember, I will have to let someone make them for me.
So, if anyone has a 1:1 tech drawing this would be greatly appreciated.
here's a couple of pics
(//%5Bimg%5Dhttp://img693.imageshack.us/img693/3400/mg0004l.jpg)[/img]
(//%5Bimg%5Dhttp://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4407/mg0015h.jpg)
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Hey she's looking good M. I do like those 3 spokers, wish I could have got my hands on a set, instead I had to settle for the cheaper 6 spoke ones.
I've got the same issue with the caliper brackets. I'm going to get the shape right using cardboard/wood templates then get them made without any holes drilled. I'll then be able to drill the first clearance hole that a new bolt will go through and into the caliper bracket that the caliper 'floats' on. Then drill the other clearance hole for the other new bolt. Once the new bracket is mounted to the caliper it can then be offered up to the fork leg to have the new threaded holes drilled and tapped.
I've worked out that the brackets need to be 10mm thick as the distance between the outside faces of the brake discs is 20mm less on the new wheel than the originals. i.e. 10mm either side.
I don't know if this is the case for the wheels you are using.
QuoteI've worked out that the brackets need to be 10mm thick as the distance between the outside faces of the brake discs is 20mm less on the new wheel than the originals. i.e. 10mm either side.
I don't know if this is the case for the wheels you are using.
Don't know yet...I'll measure this also and the diameter of the discs.
You're using another fork though aren't you ? Mine is standard Tigger with 143 mm axle space between forklegs.
mine are made of 1/4 inch thick (6.5 mm) 7075 aluminum alloy .
puts the calipers right where you want them with tiger forks and the rotors inverted on the trophy wheel .
Quotemine are made of 1/4 inch thick (6.5 mm) 7075 aluminum alloy
Are the holes on the forkside threaded and if so will this hold with this thickness/thinness :?:
yes threaded forkside holes and you need to use m10 x 1.25 to insure enough threads are in in the plate , you also have to use short enough bolts that they dont protrude thru enough to interfere with the rotors
I used an alloy of 7075 aluminum it is expensive but strong , it has a higher tensile strength than steel
I'm using standard Tiger Forks and yokes, so I also have 143mm between the fork legs.
Mustang - any chance you can measure the distance between the outside faces of the rotors to confirm that yours are set slightly wider than mine using the 6 spoke wheels?
Quote from: "GavD"I'm using standard Tiger Forks and yokes, so I also have 143mm between the fork legs.
Mustang - any chance you can measure the distance between the outside faces of the rotors to confirm that yours are set slightly wider than mine using the 6 spoke wheels?
with the trophy wheel and brake rotors you need to mount the rotors ass backwards to allow for clearance for the plates to adapt the steamer calipers for use on the trophy rotors
the distance on the trophy rotors from outside face to outside face is 107.315mm when the rotors are mounted backwards on the wheel
a stock tiger wheel the rotors are 127.762 mm outside to outside
give or take on the dims depending on wear and / or different manufactuers
Quoteyes threaded forkside holes and you need to use m10 x 1.25 to insure enough threads are in in the plate , you also have to use short enough bolts that they dont protrude thru enough to interfere with the rotors
Thx for that 'Stang and what kind of material can safely be used for the bolts to make sure that they're strong/hard enough AND don't react with the aluminium alloy ? The forces on these bolts are enormous, and
Stainless & Aluminium is NOT a good combination 'cause it will make the aluminium corrode; not only that but stainless is too brittle.
And coppergrease (which is also a nogo with aluminium) or any other antiseizing/anti corroding compound like molycote or silvergrease or the stuff that is used in planes cannot be used here.
I guess loctite blue is needed here?
Actually I am using stainless steel allen head cap screws ........the alloy I used for the plates has very good corrosion resistance .
The stock bolts for the OEM brake caliper is whats holing the plates to the fork legs , the stainles bolts pass thru the un threaded hole in the plates and screw into the calipers :wink:
so after looking at the bike you need to thread the plates with whatever the stock bolts are m10 x ?????? i can't remember but I am pretty sure they were 1.25 thread pitch and the new bolts you are going to use to hold the calipers on have to be what the OEM threaded hole in the calipers is , again I think it was M10 x 1.25
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/extreme%20makeover/DSC_2798.jpg)
M10x1.25 souns good to me.......
Do you use blue loctite on these bolts?
QuoteI've worked out that the brackets need to be 10mm thick as the distance between the outside faces of the brake discs is 20mm less on the new wheel than the originals. i.e. 10mm either side.
I don't know if this is the case for the wheels you are using.
Today I measured between the outside faces of the discs:
Tigger 127.3 mm
Sprint 108.5 mm
That's indeed about 20 mm less on the new wheel. So I guess I'll have to use 10 mm thick material to make the brackets.
Mustang used only 6.5 mm thick alloy. Wouldn't this interfere with free travel either way that the calipers need on their ride pins?
Quote from: "MtheTiger"QuoteI've worked out that the brackets need to be 10mm thick as the distance between the outside faces of the brake discs is 20mm less on the new wheel than the originals. i.e. 10mm either side.
I don't know if this is the case for the wheels you are using.
Today I measured between the outside faces of the discs:
Tigger 127.3 mm
Sprint 108.5 mm
That's indeed about 20 mm less on the new wheel. So I guess I'll have to use 10 mm thick material to make the brackets.
Mustang used only 6.5 mm thick alloy. Wouldn't this interfere with free travel either way that the calipers need on their ride pins?
you are not going to clear the bolt heads on the rotors if you use 10mm plate,
if it does it won't be by much !
OK, didn't think about that...I'll check it out.
I've made up a wooden 10mm thick template that is shaped on the side where they mount onto the fork legs so that the sweeping arc of the rotor bolts doesn't touch the brackets. Then the calipers are in the right position to slide on the bracket.
I'll post a couple of photos when i get the chance.
M,
Here are the photos of my wooden template (that broke on one end).
You can see in the photo where it is mounted on the fork that the rotor bolt is just visible between the bracket and the fork leg. It just misses the bracket as the wheel rotates.
There is also a photo of the cardboard template that is the final version. I'll be getting the brackets made up to that shape then carry out the drilling myself.
Looking good Gav!
Quoteyou are not going to clear the bolt heads on the rotors if you use 10mm plate,
if it does it won't be by much !
Today had the chance to measure up with my overhauled caliper and it turns out Mustang's right, 10mm isn't gonna clear the bolt heads. There's room for max 7mm in there.
Cheers Mustang!
The other thing I saw is that for a good fit (whole of the brakepad on the disc) the holes for the caliper have to be quite close to the forkholes. Using the existing type of M10 bolt for this leaves no room for its head (the original torxx heads are pretty wide) so I gues I need some new M10 bolts which are way shorter ... about 15mm long and have a small allen head or something.
M,
I read somewhere else that you've finished your 3 spoke conversion, any photos yet. Mine's stalled a bit due to lack of funds, just need a rear disc and to get the front caliper brackets manufactured & I'm there.
Gav
Hi Gav
You're right about that. Last sunday the weather finally was good enough to do my first testdrive. I had problems with properly bleeding the front brakes. It's still not 100% but good enough to testdrive.
A mate has made some pics which I received yesterday...checkit.
- Sprintwheels repainted myself in Caspian Blue color I had made to match
- New rubber...Pilot Road II's
- Calipers overhauled (new pads, new sliders, new pistons and rings)
- Rear 180 and Front 120
- Rear hugger bolts straight on
- new DID chain & sprockets
Bike rides like on rails (as Mustang said) and feels planted also @ higher speeds (160 km/h). No more wobbling & fluttering here :D :D 8)
- Stopping power and precise control massively improved
(http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/826/img2953ux.jpg)[/URL]
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(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/6168/img2955d.jpg)[/URL]
(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5758/img2958k.jpg)[/URL]
(http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5172/img2952z.jpg)[/URL]
Left to do:
- fork overhaul: thicker oil, preload and positioning 1cm higher for improved ride
- fixing speedo cable to fender
- installing additional Voltmeter
- ride off in the sunset
A few pics of my brackets....
(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4241/mg0032.jpg)[/URL]
(http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/8003/mg0033m.jpg)[/URL]
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6254/mg0034p.jpg)[/URL]
The staight side didn't work out 'cause it hit the rotorbolts so I had to make it curved inwards. I haven't got pics of the finished goods though, only a not so good close up on the bike...you can see the curve.
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9130/caliperbracket.jpg)[/URL]
Total cost around:
- wheels & discs € 200
- New rubber € 247
- paint and clearcoat and other stuff € 200
- brake parts € 220
- chain & sprockets € 160
- Alu for brackets € 10
- Machining brackets € 120
So, all in all not a cheap makeover but worth it nonetheless.
8) 8)
Looking good M
:eusa_clap
8) 8) looks great ...i did the rear conversion about 6 months ago..and it definately handled way better.
i have the wheel ,discs and spare speedo drive for the front.but ground to halt at that point...got lazy to be honest...so any chance of the measurements for brackets and spacers...
ill get of my arse and finish it
update...finished spacers and brake brackets,not hard when i got round to it.
i now realize why speedo has to switched to opposite fork leg.
a short test ride later and it seems to be a worhwhile conversion..
:D
Pics please Geno
Mine are here;
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9094
Since photos were taken I've replaced alot of fasteners with stainless.
Insurance and MOT sorted for 1st Apr, so she'll be seeing tarmac for the first time in 4 years soon! Can't wait.
sorry for the wait..first big spin of the year...handling and brakes seem improved,drops into corners way quicker :D :D
i need to see pics of that sump gaurd you got fitted there geno. is it a triumph part or did you make it ?
Quotehandling and brakes seem improved,drops into corners way quicker :D :D
Quite right........& do not forget the sheer JOY when rolling on the throttle pulling out of these corners with tha BIG rubber @ the rear 8) 8) 8) 8)
Isn't that nice (as JJ would say).
She's looking good !
Keep on spinnin' Geno
Today I got the chance to do some measurements on the brackets I made so here it is.
(//%5Burl=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/img0889qr.jpg/%5D%5Bimg%5Dhttp://img822.imageshack.us/img822/4745/img0889qr.jpg)[/url]
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of course you need two of them mirrored :roll:
The material I used is Aluminium 7075-T6 alloy.