I just took my Tiger on a trip last month and ever since, it's needed a little TLC.
Everything on the bike is stock from 01', and I just rolled over 14,000 miles. So, I figured why not just get some stuff out of the way now...
Chain had a few locked links in it, and the front sprocket was all but bent over, so I decided to do the whole rear drive and add in a new rear 44 tooth sprocket. I also threw on Sintered HH brakes in the front and organic brakes in the rear... the rear pads were down to the metal, and, again... they still said NISSIN on them stock from 01'... yikes.
I had added a Remus Revolution exhaust before my trip and took out the baffle before my trip... I noticed a TON of popping on decel and a little bit of shuddering under 3k rpm... very poppy and hesitant.
Last year, I had the dealer install the TOR tune into the computer... so I thought this would be a straight bolt-on with no issues... however, it seems this pipe is way more free-flow than the TOR.
SO.. as of today I have new brakes, new gearing, I did the 12 min computer re-set, and then re-installed the baffle into the exhaust and let me tell you...
This is a WHOLE new bike!!! The exhaust sounds a little quieter, but more chrisp... almost dirt-bike ish... I also have brand-new Michellin Pilot Road 1's on it which are WAY WAY better than the Metzler Tourances that were on it.
The sputter is gone, and the popping on decel is all but eliminated.
Now, I'm still debating on a Power Commander III... or, calling Australia and getting the hook up to do a Tune-Boy sweep on the computer.
I don't really know which is better... I know the Tune Boy allows for more control... but the PCIII is easily modded...
Any suggestions?
Try TuneECU - it's free and allows remaps, but isn't quite so easy to use if you are into doing your own maps. There's a link to it here:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8389 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8389)
Just downloaded TuneECU and it seems AMAZING!
Just ordered Triumph USB cable from e-bay for 25 bucks. Should be here in a week.
Now I'll be able to set everything to my liking at least... maybe get rid of some of that low end brumble...
Still thinking about just getting a new TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) but we'll wait and see if the tune can help it out.
Just be a bit careful to start with, unless you already know what you are doing. A couple of beginners rules:
a. Don't touch the timing map unless you really are sure you're not guessing.
b. Never let the air / fuel ratio get above 14.7 air to 1 fuel. Ideally, you want 13 to 1 for max power. Bear in mind you might have set the A/F to 14.7 to 1or whatever, but there are trims for temp and the trim table itself to include.
Good luck and have fun. :wink:
The TuneEcu is blank on all pages. Will everything light-up and map-out once I plug the bike into the PC? The TOR map should show up in the % table... I would expect.
The only thing I would really screw with would be idle rpm...
I downloaded a bunch of maps for the 2001 Triumph 955i Daytona from Power Commander.com, but they won't open... probably because I don't have a power-commander program to run them in.
Maybe I'll just search for a couple How-To Vids on Youtube or something.
For right now, I just want to make sure fuel/air is 100% 13/1 (if possible) and idle is 1200rpm... and maybe to ensure all cylinders are balanced.
I'll take it slow :).
Go to the TuneECU website and download the Tiger tunes. Start TuneECU and load your prefered tune. You're now ready to blow it into your ECU.
Alternatively, connect to your ECU and read your map from your ECU (a good idea anyway - you can save it so as to put it back later if you need to). Click Mapedit on the top right of the screen, click on ECu and select Connect from the drop down list, once connected click read map.
BTW, I just downloaded the latest version, ran it, and it has maps in already so I can't understand why yours hasn't. Good luck.
Maps are here: http://www.tomhamburg.net/Tune_List.html (http://www.tomhamburg.net/Tune_List.html)
Got the cord today, however the disc with the drivers is cracked so I can't run it...
Windows found a driver... but it won't connect to the vehicle...
TuneECU says "Wrong Key, cannot connect to vehicle"
Fun times.
Go here:
http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html (http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html)
Some where on there it tells you not to use the cable driver anyway but to use the Tune ECU bespoke driver.
If you haven't found that out for yourself, it suggests you aren't reading the info thoroughly. Please do, this is risky stuff and it can end in tears. No-one is going to take responsibility for any damage you do, especially me!!!
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Go here:
http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html (http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html)
Some where on there it tells you not to use the cable driver anyway but to use the Tune ECU bespoke driver.
If you haven't found that out for yourself, it suggests you aren't reading the info thoroughly. Please do, this is risky stuff and it can end in tears. No-one is going to take responsibility for any damage you do, especially me!!!
I don't think i will be tryin this ' plug bike into puter ' stuff !! i'd probably end up with an expensive garage ornament, even more than it is now :shock: :lol:
KK
ps is this the cable thingy yer talkin about :?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/006-TRIUMPH-BIKE- ... 4aa482febe (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/006-TRIUMPH-BIKE-TUNE-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-TUNING-LEAD-CABLE-/320587628222?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4aa482febe)
The TuneECU website I originally downloaded from was confusing as all hell... everything was half english, half french.
tomhamburg.net has a TON of stuff that I read up on. Also, the TuneECU site you just sent me was sent to me by the guys who I bought the cable from... and that one was MUCH easier to follow as well!
The only thing I want to fiddle with is Idle, Fuel/Air, and that's it. Maybe customize a warm-up procedure so that the bike doesn't sputter and wail below 1000rpm for a few seconds before it heats up.
No worries... I always blame myself for messing things up :).
When reading the directions, it says "after you download the tune, reset TPS" and then gives directions to open the ECU tab and click "reset tps" then to start the bike until the TPS icon turns green...
Well mine doesn't do that...
Instead in the Test screen you can manually click on "Reset TPS" and it's done.
Is that the same thing?
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Try TuneECU - it's free and allows remaps, but isn't quite so easy to use if you are into doing your own maps. There's a link to it here:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8389 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8389)
Hi Bob,
How does TuneECU compare with Tuneboy? I've been very happy with tuneboy which I bought some years ago but it seems you have perhaps moved over to the dark side?
I've not used it much to be honest; it does seem to be more user-friendly but less capable. But there again, I'm used to Tuneboy now. It works with the Tuneboy cable though so no driver issues... why not download and have a play?
Danny, sounds like you got the driver issue sorted... Well done!!
Quote from: "Danny955i"When reading the directions, it says "after you download the tune, reset TPS" and then gives directions to open the ECU tab and click "reset tps" then to start the bike until the TPS icon turns green...
Well mine doesn't do that...
Instead in the Test screen you can manually click on "Reset TPS" and it's done.
Is that the same thing?
One thing you learn quite quickly - and Tuneboy is probably just as bad - is they don't always update the instructions when they update the software hence unexpected things happen.
Ok cool... I'll just have to be sure to be on-top of things.
I downloaded a really good tune, everything is set to 13.5, 13.00 or 12.5 on the map, warmup and idle are a little smoother...
I'll have to ride it around a bit to see if there are any flat spots... but so far, im impressed!
Quick little update:
uploaded a map yesterday.... everything on the A/F1 map is 13.50 down to 13.0 in steps from 0-100% throttle in all RPM ranges...
It runs SMOOTH... only there is a LOT of popping on deceleration. Anything under 2000rpm seems to sputter and flutter when coming to a stop.
However... power is very linear, smooth and the bike just sounds pissed off... I lost a bit of torque it seems... not as much grunt picking up the front wheel.
A/F2 map was listed as 13.0 all across the board.
I'm thinking leaning out the fuel a bit to 14 in the 3000 to 1200rpm range may help with the popping a bit... especially at closed throttle to 10% while downshifting.
Am I now addicted? Me-thinks so...
Popping is lean mix not rich.
Cause is the lean mix doesn't burn properly in the cylinder so pops in the hot exhaust. Correct or rich mix burns more efficiently so doesn't pop. I know this is the reverse of what you'd think but Google it and see.
All my maps for more power result in low throttle issues - the Sagem just doesn't seem up to it. Putting a load of fuel in the bottom end to remove the lean mix for emmissions checks just results in a rich smell - it doesn't seem to help much although it does reduce the pops. And it does result in high tickover as well. The Sagem can't hit it's target tickover value once you richen the map.
But try it anyway, it'll be good to have someone else working on this too.
BTW, what's your long term fuel trim read?
I guess that would be the beauty of doing this on a dyno.... being able tune as you run... instead of downloading a map, 12min reset, running it 3 times to set the new values... then going from there to figure out that you're popping on decel, or you have a flat-spot mid-range... haha.
I'm using this map here:
10173AFMod2.hex
http://www.tomhamburg.net/Tunes_in_Hex_and_dat/All_Tunes_sorted_by_model/all_Tiger/995cc%20Tiger_from%20VIN%20206547/10173AFMod2.hex
Pop that up in TuneECU and you'll see exactly what I put on the bike.
There is a tune out there called Massive2... it's for an 02' Daytona... identical bike.... I wonder if I could try using that tune... I'm just a tad scared because it's mainly ignition changes.... unless the 02 Daytona 955i is a completely different motor I don't see how it could hurt really...
I'm going to try this one I just drew up first thing in the AM...
The general outlook of my map is this.... think of a circle, or a radius piece of pizza... Think of the tip and how it expands to the crust... I'm approaching the map in that way...
So for value 0% throttle... 500rpm, the value will be 11.95 AF.
For 5% throttle 1000 rpm it will be 12.05, as will value 10% 500 rpm.
My goal is to start in the 0 spot with 11.95, then work my way outwards gradually moving up to 3000 rpm/34% throttle... eventually coming to 13.00 AF for the remainder of the map.
AF/2 is something along the lines of this:
500: 12.85
1000: 12.90
1400: 12.95
13.00 for everything in the middle
7000: 12.95
8000: 12.90
9000: 12.85
10000: 12.85
The one thing that made me think running lean would help the situation, was on multiple maps, they have 14.7 as their target AF/1 value from 500 to 3000 rpm, from 0 to 34% throttle on a few maps... so I thought that was to reduce the popping.... But, I think that's for better economy in-town, low rpm riding and then an almost power-band affect from 3000 rpm up smacking it right to 13.00 AF.
Just a theory... I wish there was a way to share Hex files... I'd send mine to you!
It'll start on the Daytona map but run badly - I know!!
Basically, there are 2 parts to a tune, the map which we're playing with and the base programme that uses the map - which we can't play with.
The Daytona and the Tiger share the same base programme so it will run, but (as my dealer found to his cost) the speed triple for instance has a different base, so when you load it all sorts of weird things happen. Although most older Triumphs have a Sagem ECU, the way the Sagem is programmed to work is not always the same. Hope that helps.
Oh, and the Daytona has much hotter cams, so the ign map etc is significantly different. One way to get a hot tiger is put Daytona cams in and the Daytona map. But the Tiger chassis is never going to be happy with 140bhp.