What I've learned during what has been an expensive afternoon.
I decided to check my IACV while I was doing a service today. I couldn't see for sure what it was doing but it sounded ok when I cycled it with Tuneboy, so I decided to go a bit further and removed the motor from it's housing and cycled it again. Have you any idea how far up the yard the spring can fire the white plunger when it reaches the end of it's travel, and how long it takes to find the bits?
Next problem, can't get the white plunger screw back in to the housing as the shaft has a keyway (well it would, wouldn't it or it wouldn't work). So I decided to dismantle the motor. I realised afterward that the way to get it back together is to cycle it again with Tuneboy and install the shaft as the motor is turning, however, this bit of wisdom came too late to save me.
Do not try this next bit - you will only get to a point where you start throwing things around the shed - the three pins that hold the base in the casing can be eased out using very sharp end-cutter pliers but being careful not to actually cut the head of the pins off. The base of the case then comes out quite easily, but the wires connecting the motor to the base terminals have only about 1mm of slack in them, and they are less than a wisker thick so snap before you even know they're there, effectively rendering the IACV useless. I found I could solder them back under a magnifying glass but, since I don't know which ones go where (there are four of them) decided against it as I don't want to end up putting 12v straight into a digital signal line in the ECU. An IACV is expensive enough, and ECU is considerably more.
My new IACV and gasket should be here Tuesday.... :roll:
Yep, been there, an hour or so to find the spring in my case :lol: :lol:
I too ended up with a new un, Fowlers Bristol had 4 on the shelf :?
This is timely as I think I may have buggered my ACV. Syncing the throttle bodies, I got the brilliant idea that I could leave the ACV hooked up....well, bad idea. Got it back together, or I thought I did, but now have the engine light on. Don't have Tuneboy but hope to have TuneECU up and running soon...waiting on a cable.
Quote from: "JTT"This is timely as I think I may have buggered my ACV. Syncing the throttle bodies, I got the brilliant idea that I could leave the ACV hooked up....well, bad idea. Got it back together, or I thought I did, but now have the engine light on. Don't have Tuneboy but hope to have TuneECU up and running soon...waiting on a cable.
I cocked mine too when synching, i have dealer tool to turn the light off, but with mine if I started from cold it was fine until I touched the throttle, then the revs would drop to around 500 and more often than not cut out as soon as i stopped at lights etc.
I noticed when the dealer was syncing throttle bodies he was using "T" pieces to keep the IACV in circuit instead of disconnecting the IACV and locking the throttle just off tickover. So that's what I do...... :roll:
I read somewhere else that "apparently" if you leave the battery disconnected overnight or a longer period of time that it can make the engine light come on even though there is nothing actually wrong and that after a few rides, it "resets" itself and goes away. Is there any truth to this? Or am I grasping at straws in faint hopes I didn't shag my ACV?
It's not usually disconnecting the battery that puts the light on, it's usually turning the ign on whilst one of more sensors are disconnected - for instance - the air temp sensor in the airbox, which is on the garage floor while you balance the throttle bodies.
Once the ECU senses something is missing or wrong, it stores a code and puts the warning light on. If that code doesn't re-occur (because you re-connected the air sensor when you put the airbox back) for three warm-up cool-down cycles, it cancels the light but leaves the code stored until it's cleared manually.
Ahh! So I "might" be ok on my ACV. I haven't run the bike more than a couple of seconds since doing the throttle bodies. I took it for a short ride this evening, then did the 12 min tune. All feels good, but the light is disconcerting. I will try a couple more short rides and see if it clears. In the meantime hopefully my cable arrives and I can try the TuneECU to see if it picks up the code.
Single carbs were never this complicated :?
Thanks Bixxer Bob!
If it is any help....
If you disconnect the battery ...
the motror must run up to operating temp and cool down 3 times before the engine light goaes out.
I've known this a long time and recently put it to the test..... after about 600 miles into my trip..... it went out!