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Tiger Time => Girly Talk (1999 - 2006 Tigers) => Topic started by: WVdyhrd on September 26, 2010, 02:43:50 AM

Title: rear wheel bearings
Post by: WVdyhrd on September 26, 2010, 02:43:50 AM
Changing out my bearings this week. Have never done it, or even seen them, before. Working off the service manual. Any tips, how to's, etc would be amazingly appreciated
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Post by: malc on September 26, 2010, 11:00:37 AM
A decent bar & a big hammer to get them out & something the same OD as the bearing to push or very carefully tap them back in
The bearings you require are
2 6204 & 1 6205 for the sprocket carrier sealed bearings much cheaper from local bearing supplier than triumph genuine they are exactly the same
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Post by: WVdyhrd on September 26, 2010, 02:53:42 PM
thanks malc...what is OD?
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Post by: iansoady on September 26, 2010, 03:19:15 PM
Outside diameter  :D

If you get the bearings from a bearing shop make sure they're the sealed type - usually suffixed 2RS (2 Rubber Seals).
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Post by: WVdyhrd on September 26, 2010, 04:53:37 PM
thx im gonna remove them tonight and take the bearings and all the numbers ya'll gave me to a local shop and just say here i need these.

That said, I can type a history thesis overnight, I was a successful cop for a few years (got tired of violence) but this mechanics stuff blows my mind sometimes  :lol: I really do appreciate ya'll taking the time to answer. I'd be fu'd up or broke on maintenance without the internet.
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Post by: WVdyhrd on September 27, 2010, 09:23:36 PM
any other input?   I'm a bit intimidated and all ears :icon_scratch  :mrgreen:
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Post by: Mustang on September 27, 2010, 09:47:15 PM
Quote from: "WVdyhrd"any other input?   I'm a bit intimidated and all ears :icon_scratch  :mrgreen:
you are going to soon find out , grasshopper..................it aint as easy as it sounds .

Getting some space around the inner bushing and wheel bearings , doesn't give much beating room . once you get 1 of the bearings out , the job becomes much easier

now you can pound out the other bearing a lot easier .

push (you are really going to be tapping with a hammer )a new bearing up to the shoulder on either side of wheel . only push with something slightly smaller than the OD of bearing but hollow so as not to hit the inner race of the bearing .

You will probably end up using a pc of pipe to do this .

When you have the first bearing in now put the inner spacer back in , as long as you didn't beat it up getting the old bearings out .....if you buggered up the inside of the bush you need to fix it , the axle goes thru it .

If you buggered the face of the bushing you need to restore the length ( file off the burrs you made )

now if you have made it this far you are almost done press / push the second bearing in until it seats ....the inner bush should be captured and semi tight (no gaps between the bearing faces .) don't forget to put  a new seal in .

when you do the sprocket carrier it's nice to replace the outer seal also , the sprocket carrier bearing pushes out ( beat it with bar and hammer   :ImaPoser  )

dont forget the spacer between the wheel and the sprocket carrier .

if you didn't damage the new bearings installing them you will be good to go ......however if you damaged the bearings on installation you are going to find out soon enough ....they won't last long .

If this sounds like it is over your mechanical ability's take it to your dealer and let them do it . you can bring them just the wheel and carrier , and leave the bike at home .
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Post by: WVdyhrd on September 27, 2010, 11:28:05 PM
thx mustang. I'm gonna try it, just because I want to learn. And I'll prob have que once I dive in.

If I feel utterly lost I'll stop and take it in

Would be awesome if the shop would let me watch them do it, i'm a visual learner, but they tend to see that as bad for business I think.
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Post by: WVdyhrd on October 06, 2010, 10:55:23 PM
Quote from: "Mustang"
Quote from: "WVdyhrd"any other input?   I'm a bit intimidated and all ears :icon_scratch  :mrgreen:
you are going to soon find out , grasshopper..................it aint as easy as it sounds .

Getting some space around the inner bushing and wheel bearings , doesn't give much beating room . once you get 1 of the bearings out , the job becomes much easier

now you can pound out the other bearing a lot easier .

push (you are really going to be tapping with a hammer )a new bearing up to the shoulder on either side of wheel . only push with something slightly smaller than the OD of bearing but hollow so as not to hit the inner race of the bearing .

You will probably end up using a pc of pipe to do this .

When you have the first bearing in now put the inner spacer back in , as long as you didn't beat it up getting the old bearings out .....if you buggered up the inside of the bush you need to fix it , the axle goes thru it .

If you buggered the face of the bushing you need to restore the length ( file off the burrs you made )

now if you have made it this far you are almost done press / push the second bearing in until it seats ....the inner bush should be captured and semi tight (no gaps between the bearing faces .) don't forget to put  a new seal in .

when you do the sprocket carrier it's nice to replace the outer seal also , the sprocket carrier bearing pushes out ( beat it with bar and hammer   :ImaPoser  )

dont forget the spacer between the wheel and the sprocket carrier .

if you didn't damage the new bearings installing them you will be good to go ......however if you damaged the bearings on installation you are going to find out soon enough ....they won't last long .

If this sounds like it is over your mechanical ability's take it to your dealer and let them do it . you can bring them just the wheel and carrier , and leave the bike at home .
Can you give me some more tips on getting the space between the bushing's and the bearing's? My old ones have completely blown on one side and I have the three required completely sealed new bearing's. Any tips still appreciated, my schedule got hectic so this task got pushed to tonight, have wheel off, getting ready to try to remove the old.

Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you
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Post by: Bixxer Bob on October 06, 2010, 11:47:10 PM
Never done my Tiger but the Blackbird has the same issues Mustang talks about here.  One tip I can offer is to have a long "L" lever so you can push the spacer tube out of alignment (put it in the axle hole and push against the inside of the spacer tube to push it to one side).  This gives you just a little more room to get your drift onto the edge of the first bearing to remove.  Once you've got one out things get easier.... :lol:
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Post by: WVdyhrd on October 08, 2010, 01:49:05 AM
sorry guys how do i remove the seal on the brake disc side????

ive pried on it with screw driver, pliers, even a skinny piece of wood and it laughs at me, i'm missing something  :oops:
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Post by: malc on October 08, 2010, 10:04:44 AM
flat blade driver & prize it from the middle make sure its clean & may need a little easing oil
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Post by: Bixxer Bob on October 08, 2010, 10:05:32 AM
As you tap ( :ImaPoser ) the bearing out from the other side, the seal will pop out first.....
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Post by: iansoady on October 08, 2010, 12:32:54 PM
My workshop manual seems to show a circlip between the bearing and the seal so that might cause grief...

Usually you can get them out with a stong flat bladed screwdriver tapped through the rubbuer part at a shallow angle (but not right through the metal sleeve) then lever against the opposite face of the housing. Difficult to describe but easy to do.
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Post by: Bixxer Bob on October 08, 2010, 01:21:43 PM
Quote from: "iansoady"My workshop manual seems to show a circlip between the bearing and the seal so that might cause grief....

I wonder how long I'd have been banging and swearing before I gave in and read the manual..... :roll:
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Post by: WVdyhrd on October 08, 2010, 06:56:36 PM
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"
Quote from: "iansoady"My workshop manual seems to show a circlip between the bearing and the seal so that might cause grief....

I wonder how long I'd have been banging and swearing before I gave in and read the manual..... :roll:

did that, the manual says to "remove the seal and circlip"  hence why I asked how to do so :)
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Post by: iansoady on October 09, 2010, 12:51:06 PM
This type of tool: http://www.nextag.com/KD-Tools-KD-3245- ... DA4A3773B3 (http://www.nextag.com/KD-Tools-KD-3245-549594709/prices-html?nxtg=6e0b0a1c0516-C3FC2FDA4A3773B3) often helps and is cheap enough.
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Post by: billy bee on October 09, 2010, 07:35:05 PM
Does the circlip retain the inner or outer race? If it only retains the inner race, I'd take an alternative approach. I have not done brgs on the Tiger, but if these are sealed (and I think they are) I don't see the value of pulling a seal. You'd still have an outer race pressed into the hub.

I am guessing that it's going to be a simpler operation to take the entire brg (inner race, outer race, and seals) in one step. With that in mind, I'd probably heat up the hub with a heat gun, move the the axle spacer/bushing into an offset position, and tap the brg out from the opposite side using a brass drift and the busing to drive the brg out. Using heat will help the outer race release from the hub more easily. Too much heat will hurt the hub's paint/coating, however. And using a brass drift will prevent damage to the spacer/bushing.

Once one brg is out, the opposite brg will come out easily using a pipe of an appropriate diameter to drive out the outer race.

No matter what you do, it is always important to support the hub while tapping out or pressing in the brgs. A piece of 3" or 4" PVC pipe might work. Or a couple of blocks of wood would do the trick, too. You just don't want to tap on the brg without supporting the hub.

bb
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Post by: WVdyhrd on October 10, 2010, 05:31:49 PM
Quote from: "billy bee"Does the circlip retain the inner or outer race? If it only retains the inner race, I'd take an alternative approach. I have not done brgs on the Tiger, but if these are sealed (and I think they are) I don't see the value of pulling a seal. You'd still have an outer race pressed into the hub.

bb
thanks guys.

I am still trying, the nearest shop is 3hrs. I love my Girly, but this kinda stuff (no experience and no nearby support) may effect how long I own her.

The seal is in the way of the brake side bearing, they are sealed bearing's but there is a seal and circlip in the way

http://www.bikebandit.com/2001-triumph- ... r/o/m17625 (http://www.bikebandit.com/2001-triumph-motorcycle-tiger/o/m17625)

parts 5 and 8 are what I can't get out of the way
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Post by: Mustang on October 10, 2010, 07:27:56 PM
the seal just prys out and you will need a new seal

the snap ring will need a pair of ................................well ermmmmm , oh say snap ring pliers

(http://www.roletools.com/upload/200911255251907.jpg)
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Post by: WVdyhrd on October 10, 2010, 08:07:40 PM
finally got that seal out (it took some ingenuity it did not pop right out), those bearing's failed on that side going 80 with 100mi to the house, and no truck backup, had to get home. Think i melted the seal a bit. but otherwise the innerspacer, and such looks in good repair

Thanks mustang, I'm on my way to autozone now
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Post by: KuzzinKenny on October 11, 2010, 12:12:54 AM
Hey WVdyhrd !! while yer there, mind an get some grease ( Castrol LM grease ) or somethin similar !!

KK
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Post by: WVdyhrd on October 13, 2010, 04:19:44 AM
It's on the shelf already kuz :D thanks.

Very surprised I ordered a new seal from bikebandit and one from a local bearing store. And bikebandit beat it!!!! 4 buisness days flat!!!!  :shock:  :D be back on the road tomorrow.

As always guys thanks for the input!!!

I honestly, without resources like this and adv, would probably not be able to be a rider. Or I'd be a rider in serious debt to local shops! I simply don't have much mechanical experience. I can shoot an m4 with deadly accuracy but drills confuse the hell outa me haha.

There's a couple on here that should be recommended to triumph for stipends.

That said, I've wondered, has anyone in the industry noticed an impact on shop business possibly related to the massive amount of DIY info no available on the net?
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Post by: yack_ass on April 03, 2012, 03:32:06 PM
What is the estimated life span of the bearings?
The clock is a little over 75000km and I'm almost certain they are the first set.
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Post by: Ironhorse on April 03, 2012, 07:21:32 PM
My front bearings went south at 23k miles. And I am not sure that they are original. They are Koyo's.
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Post by: Mustang on April 04, 2012, 01:08:06 AM
the factory bearings are koyos usually
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Post by: kelpie_67 on April 04, 2012, 04:33:24 AM
Just got to say that I just did mine following this thread and thanks guys it was a doddle!
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