I have the bike apart, gas tank, air box, and the throttle body is about to come out.
I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of anything I can do maintenance wise while this this is open?
I will do a TB sync before putting the tank back on.
Is there anything I could grease, lubricate, clean, replace, while this thing is taken apart?
Read the sticky threads at the top of the Girly forum
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5025 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5025)
while I had it apart this far and it being "new" to you bike and you don't know what the clearances are or if it has ever even been checked b4 I would check the valve clearances while I had the Tank off . You can pop the valve cover with just a few bolts at this point and check the clearances
Change the air filter while your there, and +1 on Mustangs post. make sure you put a bit of sealant round the rocker cover gasket to seal it when you replace it.
By the way to get the rocker cover out there is a bracket at the front of the rocker cover that the air box hooks under. You have to remove this to get the rocker cover out.
thanks guys!
I actually have already replaced the air filter and fuel filter.
I got the service record from the dealership, and this bike has had the valve clearances checked 10,000 miles ago and they were all in spec.
I wonder if this is normal, or if the dealer is full of $hit and didn't even do the job?
I also don't have a valve cover gasket at the moment, would have to order one, and if the things were out of spec, I would have to order the special tool to push the valve springs down. If you guys tell me that this dealer sounds full of crap, I will go ahead and do it, but I'd prefer to ride another 5K miles and then tackle it when I have all tools AND service manual on hand, which I don't right now.
the bike has currently 52,000 miles, runs like a champ. Idles ok most of the time, but after a while it misses a beat and stalls. Also, if I pull the clutch and the revs drop too fast, it also stalls. If I just come to a stop and pull the clutch when the rpms reach down to 2000 or below, it doesn't stall and idles fine. When it's running, it's a beast!
might be a good time to check the spark plugs - even if you don't replace them, you can always clean them up a bit. They can also give you an idea of what the motor is doing.
Check all the hoses, like the ones for the IACV for cracks or leaks.
Quote from: "John Stenhouse"By the way to get the rocker cover out there is a bracket at the front of the rocker cover that the air box hooks under. You have to remove this to get the rocker cover out.
:shock: There is???
Not on mine there isn't - my airbox just sits on top of the TBs and IACV. With the bracket missing it'll not be being held down properly to make a good seal. This might just be a Eureka moment.... I was wondering what to do tomorrow as it's going to rain. I'll be thumbing through the Haynes for pics and fabricating one up.
just found out one of the two dowell pins on the TBs are missing. It worked so far, so I'm going to trip about it, but can I order these separately?
Unless you or the previous maintainers were gorillas, the valve cover gasket is reuseable indefinitely. Valve clearance checks are supposed to happen every 6000 miles, so you're due. Also how old is the battery?
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Quote from: "John Stenhouse"By the way to get the rocker cover out there is a bracket at the front of the rocker cover that the air box hooks under. You have to remove this to get the rocker cover out.
:shock: There is???
Not on mine there isn't - my airbox just sits on top of the TBs and IACV. With the bracket missing it'll not be being held down properly to make a good seal. This might just be a Eureka moment.... I was wondering what to do tomorrow as it's going to rain. I'll be thumbing through the Haynes for pics and fabricating one up.
Well there is on the 885, have a look on the front edge of the rocker cover, if there are two bolt holes then I guess it should have one.
Holy crap!
After a long process, I think I finally fixed the stalling and running issues of this thing!
I am so freaking proud of myself!
I've posted on other threads about the issue, but basically the bike would stall when coming to a stop at idle, specially if the clutch was pulled suddenly causing a quick drop in rpms. Also, during idling, it would sound like it would miss a beat and die on its own.
The bike has been to two dealerships for this problem, one Triumph dealership in Mountain View CA, and a BMW dealership in San Jose.
Neither place could figure it out, and the Triumph dealer charged the previous owner 1000 dollars to for things they did in a blind attempt to fix it (changed fuel filter, spark plugs, TB sync, valve clearance check, etc).
Anyway, I have replaced the IAVC, and it made it better, but still not good.
I finally got the TPS yesterday, took the think apart, replaced it (with you guys helping me, of course).
I put it back together, fired it up last night, and the thing was idling at 3K rpm. I was pissed and frustrated. I now had a massive vacuum leak. Did I screw up the new gasket that bad? Did I forget a hose or something?
Here I go again taking it apart in a hurry, because now I'm freaking out... Wife is calling me for dinner, and I am not even close to being hungry, so I pass on that.
I took it apart, and nothing seem wrong...Except...I remember I disconnected the throttle play adjuster mechanism...Although it seemed like the throttle valves were shutting all the way, I gave it a little more slack just in case.
I put it back togeter, fuel tank, battery box, air box, etc. I then see that I forgot the little green connector on the air box..Here I go and take it all apart again for the third time. By now I am a ninja in taking this thing apart and putting back togeter.
When I finally put it back and fire it up, I could tell the idling was different, but it wasn't until this morning that I really saw the fruits of my labor.
The thing runs like a champ! It idles great, doesn't miss a beat, and it won't stall NO MATTER WHAT I DO! I really try to stress it and do the things to cause it to stall, but it doesn't.
Another thing, it even sounds different! There is a nice rumble now coming from the aftermarket Triumph exhaust when I twist the throttle that wasn't there before. I believe this is because the TPS was so screwed up that the thing was running with the wrong A/F mixture all over the rpm range.
I'm in love with this thing! And I now am confident to do anything on it and avoid the dealer at all costs.
Quote from: "haroldo_psf"I took it apart, and nothing seem wrong...Except...I remember I disconnected the throttle play adjuster mechanism...Although it seemed like the throttle valves were shutting all the way, I gave it a little more slack just in case.
I put it back togeter, fuel tank, battery box, air box, etc. I then see that I forgot the little green connector on the air box..
H, "Throttle play adjuster mechanism" - which bit are we talking about here?
And "Little green connector" are we talking the air temp sensor at the front right side of the airbox"? Only mine's black, althoughthe one on my spare airbox is green....
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Quote from: "haroldo_psf"I took it apart, and nothing seem wrong...Except...I remember I disconnected the throttle play adjuster mechanism...Although it seemed like the throttle valves were shutting all the way, I gave it a little more slack just in case.
I put it back togeter, fuel tank, battery box, air box, etc. I then see that I forgot the little green connector on the air box..
H, "Throttle play adjuster mechanism" - which bit are we talking about here?
And "Little green connector" are we talking the air temp sensor at the front right side of the airbox"? Only mine's black, althoughthe one on my spare airbox is green....
sorry, excuse a newbie "mechanic"'s lack of proper terms :)
The throttle play adjuster, or whatever that this is (I thought it's purpose was to adjust play, but I'm sure I'm wrong) is that thing I had to unscrew to get the end of the throttle cable off the throttle body. There were two nuts holding it, one on top, one on bottom. So, what is that?
Yes, you got the connector right. It is the air temp sensor I guess, on the front right side. Sorry for the confusion! I'm trully a newbie wrencher, but I can find my ways around with some patience, guidance, and common sense.
thanks for your help with this!
ah - it's the end of the throttle cable! You have to hold the housing steady so that the cable has something to "push" against.... otherwise, the throttle might not work right.
just like the old rim brakes on a mountain bike :)
Glad you got everything sorted out!
AT some point, you might do a 12 minute tune. I notice on the 2000 model it will run a little rough the first few starts, but once the ECU figures everything out, it's a lot better.
No apologies necessary H, I just wasn't sure whether you meant you were doing something at the TB end or the twistgrip end.
I wonder why different age air temp sensors are different colours :roll: ......
While we are on this subject, let he highjack my own thread real quick...
Why do the throttle bodies need to come off to check / adjust the valves?
It seemed to me that the valve cover could easily be removed without removing the throttle bodies.
Is removing the TBs really necessary, or more of a good thing to do for more space?
Well,,,,, I didn't remove them to do mine. But there again, I didn't have to change any shims either. Where does it say to remove them?
I thought I had read in the sticky TB removal "how to" thread that it was necessary for valve adjustment/inspection, but now I went back there, and I think I was smoking something, because I can't find it!
So, the TBs don't need to come out I guess, which is good! Thanks
One more highjack real quick...
After I replaced my TPS, the bike is running so nicely that I get scared thinking about how bad it was before.
Is it possible for a bad TPS sensor to cause permanent damage to the engine? I mean, if the TPS is as bad as mine was, the engine must be constantly running with the wrong A/F ratio...That can't be good.
Has anyone experienced bad things from a TPS (I mean, a burnt valve or something)?
maybe check your plugs, as they might get fouled, run hot, electrodes burned, etc .... but if those are fine, and the bike runs good, ride it till it dies! :)
I'm not sure why it says to remove the throttle bodies. I never did and did not have a problem. Maybe it's some easier way to remove the valve cover with the intake off? dunno.
Quote from: "haroldo_psf"Is it possible for a bad TPS sensor to cause permanent damage to the engine? I mean, if the TPS is as bad as mine was, the engine must be constantly running with the wrong A/F ratio...That can't be good.
I can see what you're getting at H, but the bad TPS simply gives a dirty signal to the ECU so the ECU isn't sure which part of the map to use. For example, if you watch a bad TPS on tuneboy, instead of using the correct value for engine load / throttle position it'll be jumping around - mine was leaping two values in either direction of where it should have been. Although it gives a lumpy ride, the values are not so far out that the engine is going to be massively rich or lean so I don't think you have anything to worry about. As the man says, just ride it.
One other point,,,,, if it was that bad, it could be that you've inadvertently cured another common problem on 955i engines; that of the leaky TB gasket. If the TB gasket is leaking you'll get enough air going by to upset low revs, but not enough to make any difference higher up the rev range. Again, although the extra air makes for lumpy running, it's not so lean that it'll do any damage. If it was that lean it wouldn't run at low revs at all.
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Quote from: "haroldo_psf"Is it possible for a bad TPS sensor to cause permanent damage to the engine? I mean, if the TPS is as bad as mine was, the engine must be constantly running with the wrong A/F ratio...That can't be good.
I can see what you're getting at H, but the bad TPS simply gives a dirty signal to the ECU so the ECU isn't sure which part of the map to use. For example, if you watch a bad TPS on tuneboy, instead of using the correct value for engine load / throttle position it'll be jumping around - mine was leaping two values in either direction of where it should have been. Although it gives a lumpy ride, the values are not so far out that the engine is going to be massively rich or lean so I don't think you have anything to worry about. As the man says, just ride it.
One other point,,,,, if it was that bad, it could be that you've inadvertently cured another common problem on 955i engines; that of the leaky TB gasket. If the TB gasket is leaking you'll get enough air going by to upset low revs, but not enough to make any difference higher up the rev range. Again, although the extra air makes for lumpy running, it's not so lean that it'll do any damage. If it was that lean it wouldn't run at low revs at all.
Bob,
Those are good points. Thanks! About the leaky gasket...When I removed the TBs, there was no gasket per say...There was some remaining material that looked like a very thin redish film that was intermitently present along the mating surfaces... So, either whoever removed the TBs in the past did not put a gasket in there, or the gaskets tend to desintegrate over time? For those of you who have removed the TBs, how does the old gasket look like?
The old TB gasket is normal greyish gasket material, about 0.5mm thick, there's no way it could just "disappear". You didn't have one and I'd put money on that being the main source of your woes.