evenin after ridin me tiger for a bit now ive decided that the rear shock is a bit bouncy. what do i need to change to make it less bouncey ?
thankies :D
Rebound and damping should do it. Bottom of shock and on reservoir there are screw valves
Quote from: "rybes"evenin after ridin me tiger for a bit now ive decided that the rear shock is a bit bouncy. what do i need to change to make it less bouncey ?
thankies :D
The shock.
When I picked up my 1996 Tiger with 28k miles on it the rear shock was essentially blown. I didn't pay much attention to it until one day I was riding with the sun shining hard to my right and above and behind me at around 50 mph. The bike cast a silhouette in front of me where I could see the rear swing-arm dancing up and down like crazy on a new highway that was as smooth as glass.
I sent the shock to be rebuilt by Sasquatch. The fixed shock is so amazing it's like a new bike. As far as I'm concerned there's no more cost effective alternative for this bike.
http://www.sasquatchrider.com/ (http://www.sasquatchrider.com/)
Rybes you rebuilt your shock as discussed didn't you?
yes mate, i did. im wonderin if ive got a tad too much preload on the spring ? never really played with suspension before so im learnin as i go along here. it feels like an old mini on hydroelastic cone thingys :lol:
Preload won't make you bounce. That is caused by a failure in damping. If you have set the damping and rebound to max hard and you still have this issue, then I would suspect you haven't replaced the seals correctly or the cylinder is shot.
Quote from: "BruKen"Preload won't make you bounce. That is caused by a failure in damping. If you have set the damping and rebound to max hard and you still have this issue, then I would suspect you haven't replaced the seals correctly or the cylinder is shot.
ill have a play with the settins durin the week n see what happens. got me fingers crossed its that m not the shock itself
think the Haynes and the handbook give you the standard settings, so thats a good starting point..
Too much preload will do the opposite: it'll make it STIFF.
preload on the tiger shock for steamers should be set so that it has about 1 inch of static sag . meaning bike should sag about 1 inch from full extension under it's own weight with no rider aboard . and then crank it up some to get some weight transferred to that front wheel .
Rebound and damper settings should be set in the middle of the adjustment for solo riding and fine tuned from there for rider preference .
had a look n come across to probs.
prob 1
loose head bearins. not hugely loose but jus enuff t get a lil clucnk when ya grab the wheel.
prob 2
erm, someone fgot to tighten the handle bar risers properly :redface:
been out on it today n it feels loads better. gunna have a play with it at the weekend see if i can get the dampin better
anyone know how to measure full suspension travel or know what it is ?
cheers :D
to set the sag just raise the rear of the bike up until the wheel just starts to loose contact with the flat level concrete you are parked on then measure from the floor to a point anywhere on the bike as long as you use that same point again . now let the bike back down and measure to that same point again . You are looking to see about an inch of sag with no rider aboard just the weight of the tigger .
sorry mustang, i wernt clear. i was talkin about the forks ;)
DOH!
Quote from: "BruKen"Rebound and damping should do it. Bottom of shock and on reservoir there are screw valves
Which one is which ?.. Which one makes which effect ?..
During a 300 km trip yesterday, i felt very unconfortable and unsecure because of bouncy rear end.
Recently checked the front end and replaced the fork oil.
Should do settings for rear shock, anybody knows what effect the screw valve do on reservoir, and the one at the bottom of the shock.?
The bikes i owned so far had only one adjuster screw which is at the bottom of the shock, i am not familiar with the one on the reservoir..
By the way, here some clue for rebound dampig adjustment;
Ensure tire pressure and tread depth are correct and preload is set (see below post).
Carefully work out original setting and write it down (for reference and so you can change it back if all else fails).
Find a bumpy road, the bumpier and the larger the range of bumps ie small to large, the better. (Riding fast around a bumpy corner is best.) A roadside observer can help as well.
Now ride up and down your bumpy road. Start with one extreme setting (say HARD) then the other (SOFT) so you feel the sort of effect rebound damping has.
Feel what the back end is doing - you want firm traction not skidding.
Depending on the feel you got, estimate what initial setting to try (eg half way between the two extremes or more HARD than SOFT).
Try many settings (quarter turn) then write them down with their results.
The ideal setting keeps the back wheel most consistently in contact with the road. (It is NOT the smoothest ride, that's underdamped).
Quote from: "Mustang"to set the sag just raise the rear of the bike up until the wheel just starts to loose contact with the flat level concrete you are parked on then measure from the floor to a point anywhere on the bike as long as you use that same point again . now let the bike back down and measure to that same point again . You are looking to see about an inch of sag with no rider aboard just the weight of the tigger .
I belive this is the standart factory setting.
An additional information to that;
Preload seting = Adjusting the height, according to amount of load we'll put on the bike..
Quote from: "rybes"anyone know how to measure full suspension travel or know what it is ?
Yes, this is important and we should know the full travel distance of the shock, this information should be given by the producer.
Let's say total travel distance of our shock is 18 cm (this value is only an example, we should find out the correct travel distance), the sag on loaded bike should be
1/3 of the total travel distance of the shock.
Bike is uprihgt position, side and center stands closed, no load on the bike.
measure the distance between floor and a reference point on the bike..
Sit on the bike with your riding clothes, helmet, luggage, pillion if y're going to have one..
We assume shock has 18 cm travel distance, 1/3 of 18 is 6 cm.
As in this example, 6 cm sag on loaded bike will provide lots of riding comfort and safety..
Than we can adjust rebound damping (see above)
Sorry for metric measurements, not familiar with others.. :oops:
have a look at this basri. its a very easy to understand suspension guide ;)
http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/Guides/mot ... 0bike%20up (http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/Guides/motorcycleSuspensionSetup.htm#Setting%20your%20bike%20up)
Quote from: "rybes"have a look at this basri. its a very easy to understand suspension guide ;)
http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/Guides/mot ... 0bike%20up (http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/Guides/motorcycleSuspensionSetup.htm#Setting%20your%20bike%20up)
Great info, thank you..
Before you guys get to involved in trying to set your suspensions, I need to give you some bad news. If your shock has not been serviced in the last 5 years, or ever for most Steamers, it is dead. Totally dead. There is not one PSI of nitrogen left in it and the fluid is beyond roached. It does not matter if your bike only has 5,000 miles on it, it is dead. Nitrogen leaks out over time and the fluid goes rancid. Even without riding the bike.
So you are now trying to adjust a 15 year old dead shock. That is like trying to use a defibrillator to revive King Tutt.
I just want to save you all some time and frustration. I have never serviced a Steamer shock that had any life left in it at all.
Have someone service that shock before riding season starts.
Quote from: "Sasquatch"That is like trying to use a defibrillator to revive King Tutt.......................
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Like it
Quote from: "Sasquatch"Have someone service that shock.
I was told by old owner of the bike "rear shock serviced last year with 1 year warranty".
Yesterday, after playing with the valve screws little bit felt some improvement, but, never soft and smooth like my old "GS"..
Should start saving for a new
Hagon.
Quote from: "Basri..."Quote from: "Sasquatch"Have someone service that shock.
I was told by old owner of the bike "rear shock serviced last year with 1 year warranty".
Yesterday, after playing with the valve screws little bit felt some improvement, but, never soft and smooth like my old "GS"..
Should start saving for a new Hagon.
I can build your stock shock into a much better shock than the Hagon for less money.
Just sayin'. :D
Slight diversion on the topic... If I get my rear shock sorted out by a professional such as Sasquatch, can I expect the bike to ride better when I have a pillion. I'm able to live with the slightly bouncy action on the bike when riding alone. (I go slow and look at the view) But when the missus is on it, it feels wallowy, too much weight on the rear (that may just be her though!), light steering etc.
Will having the rear shock serviced / adjusted / replaced cure this?
What's the best way forward?
P.S. Had the garage change the fork oil for some heavier weight oil last time it went in for a service and boy did that make a difference.
Always nice to have at least one end of your motorbike under control....
sasquatch did my shock a couple of years ago, and i was blown away at how much of a differance it made, and i just wwent with a stock rebuild. if i had to do it again(and i will eventualy), i should have had him put in a better spring. the guy does good work 8) . eric
Nick, yes it will, Sas I was going to point basri in your direction, then realised he's in Turkey, might be quite a bit of shipping involved.
Quote from: "John Stenhouse"Nick, yes it will, Sas I was going to point basri in your direction, then realised he's in Turkey, might be quite a bit of shipping involved.
Yes, i am at the other end of the world.. Steamer is the only vehicle i have, no car..My bike without a shock for quite a while, don't even want to think about it..