I got the DID Gold 530 116 links. As far as I know, the bike takes 114 links, so I cut two.
The wheel is all the way forward as seen in the picture, but the chain is way too tight, doesn't look like it can connect!
What am I missing? help, bike down... :cry:
Just to double check, two links come off the new chain, and 4 gold side places (in the picture, the one link still has the side plates on, but they would have to come off to connect to the other end with the master link.
If I put another link on, which is what it seems I have to do, there is so much slack on the chain that I will need to adjust the wheel all the way back to take it off, and that doesn't sound right for a new chain.
I have the stock sprockets with 48 teeth in the back.
mine, with 114 was a bit tight, but it fit. I think 116 is actually correct (the triumph sprocket and chain kit came with 116, and it was a bit far back).
make sure the front sprocket is engaging the chain correctly (chain isn't riding on top of the teeth), and all the slack in the top of the chain is taken up. Leave the bike in gear, engage the rear sprocket and turn the wheel to take up the slack on the top of the chain.
Probably just a little slack in the top. It should fit.
oh yeah - make sure the chain isn't riding underneath that little chain guide near the side stand.... it should go over the top of that. Don't remember what it's called, but that might cause it.
Thanks Walker, I'll try that tomorrow.
But if it is this hard to get all the slack out to connect the chain, then I will end up with no slack, or very little slack, no where near 40mm. Is this correct? Don't I needs ome slack?
885 should be 116 link, 955 is 114
Not bring funny, but did you remove two links or four?
2 links --> =Ξ
4 links --> =Ξ=Ξ
chazzy - I was almost wondering the same thing. If it was 2 center links and 2 outer links for a total of 4.
Got pics of what you removed?
Another thing I did was lay the new chain beside the old chain to check the length.... but my problem was at first someone had put a tiger 955i kit on mine before I got it (different gears)... which I was replacing with the official 885 kit from triumph... different number of links and a different rear gear.
I think timbox2 is correct. I still removed 2 links even with the 885 rear sprocket (one center and a pair of side plates) to get the adjustment where the axle is at the 7 o'clock position instead of the 5 o'clock position as you look at it. I wasn't sure how much the chain might stretch. 116 would have worked fine with the 48 tooth rear I think.
Chazzy, I don't understand that diagram... :(
This is what I removed (well, a representative of it). The circled elements in the picture is what I tought were "two links".
Am I retarded?
PS: I didn't find specific posts on the 885i, BUT the steamer guys use 114, and the 955i use 114, so I figured, what the heck, why would the 885i be the only one different?
I checked the service manual, and it says in the specification section that it uses some "Regina type 138" chain, 116 links... I can guarantee you, 116 links was NOT acceptable when I tried it last night. the slack was HUGE.
My plan B today, to save the $200 chain, is to buy a master link and put one link back, making it 115. I'd like to know for sure how to do this, but I gues it might be 115. Anyway, Does anyone know if I can ONLY use DID brand master link, or any 530 chain size master link will do?
Thanks everyone... The thing was running so good, and I had to screw it up, didn't I? On a positive side, this thing as 52K miles, and still has the original chain! That chain had many seized links, it needed to come off...if I only knew what I was doing :roll:
By the way, what size allen wrench do I need to adjust the wheel chain slack? I did not have anything bigger than 10mm, so I'm using a 3/8 drive (square tip) on it, not the right tool... by helping by pushing the wheel back or forth, we can make this do, but the right tool would be nice. What do you guys usE?
from your pic you took out twice as many links as needed.............. :oops:
I'd call that 4 links myself although I agree there might be room for doubt. It's amazing how a huge droop in the chain can be removed by shifting the wheel back a few mm.
The adjuster is 12mm IIRC - I use a hex drain plug key on one side which is small & easy to turn using a spanner. Make sure you don't slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain or the wheel will get out of line.
Quote from: "iansoady"I'd call that 4 links myself although I agree there might be room for doubt. It's amazing how a huge droop in the chain can be removed by shifting the wheel back a few mm.
The adjuster is 12mm IIRC - I use a hex drain plug key on one side which is small & easy to turn using a spanner. Make sure you don't slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain or the wheel will get out of line.
What do you mean by: "Make sure you don't slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain or the wheel will get out of line" ?
What's the "spindle" I shouldn't slacken? I loosened two screws clamping the wheel hub on one side, and the other two on the other, then I was able to move the wheel back or forth thus taking or giving slack to the chain...Isn't this how it's done?
To realign the wheel, I just have to make sure both sides are at the same alignment mark, right?
Ok, so I took off 4 links! That explains it! Ok, off to by another master link so I can put two links back... Anyone know if it's OK if I use another brand 530 master link? Chances are I won't find DID brand locally...And can't wait...My bike is at my brother in law's house, need to take it out of there, and don't want to tow it...
Thanks everyone... I learned a few things in the past day or so!
Quote from: "haroldo_psf"Am I retarded?
Probably not. 'Link' is slightly misleading, as the quoted length of a chain is actually the number of pins/rollers it contains. Removing two links takes out two pairs of side plates; one inner pair and one outer pair, along with two rollers.
Quote from: "ChazzyB"Quote from: "haroldo_psf"Am I retarded?
Probably not. 'Link' is slightly misleading, as the quoted length of a chain is actually the number of pins/rollers it contains. Removing two links takes out two pairs of side plates; one inner pair and one outer pair, along with two rollers.
what you say is the definition of ONE link, or at least that's what google is saying:
""One link consists of two inner plates, two outer plates, two pins and two rollers, While the pins fit tightly into the outer plates, both the inner plates and the rollers pivot freely on the pins." Definition of ONE Link which contains TWO pins. "
Quote from: "haroldo_psf"What do you mean by: "Make sure you don't slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain or the wheel will get out of line" ?
What's the "spindle" I shouldn't slacken? ....
To realign the wheel, I just have to make sure both sides are at the same alignment mark, right?
The spindle is the big nut with a circlip outside it in the eccentric - shown in one of your pics. There's a corresponding nut on the other side (one end is a bolt head but can't remember which). These shouldn't be slackened as you lose alignment. The markings aren't anywhere near accurate enough IMO.
QuoteI loosened two screws clamping the wheel hub on one side, and the other two on the other, then I was able to move the wheel back or forth thus taking or giving slack to the chain...Isn't this how it's done?
Two screws on each side? Only one each side on mine......
Quote from: "iansoady"Quote from: "haroldo_psf"What do you mean by: "Make sure you don't slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain or the wheel will get out of line" ?
What's the "spindle" I shouldn't slacken? ....
To realign the wheel, I just have to make sure both sides are at the same alignment mark, right?
The spindle is the big nut with a circlip outside it in the eccentric - shown in one of your pics. There's a corresponding nut on the other side (one end is a bolt head but can't remember which). These shouldn't be slackened as you lose alignment. The markings aren't anywhere near accurate enough IMO.
QuoteI loosened two screws clamping the wheel hub on one side, and the other two on the other, then I was able to move the wheel back or forth thus taking or giving slack to the chain...Isn't this how it's done?
/quote]
Two screws on each side? Only one each side on mine......
you're right, it's only one screw, as it's shown on my own pic above :)
Sorry!
This big nut your are referring to (or bolt) with a retaining clip...That's teh axle bolt, right? I didn't touch it, so it shouldn't come loose...
Quote from: "haroldo_psf"what you say is the definition of ONE link, or at least that's what google is saying:
If you buy a chain with 116 links, you will have 116 rollers - count 'em. The 'Links' word is misleading or even misused.
Haraldo,
now that you are changing the drive chain after 52k,what are the sprockets looking like,i hope they are not the original too,rule of thumb is
when you change the chain,the sprockets should be done also,
good luck with your maintainence,i think its good you are willing to get your hands dirty and give it a go,good on ya!
thanks for the tip. The front sprocket is hardened steel, or at least that's what it looks like, and I don't think it is bad. The rear sprocket is the one I would worry about, but at this point, I am just replacing the chain.
I will see about replacing that sprocket soon enough, but for now I need to get my baby up and going again.
I will post a summary of the things I did to revive this bike... It was handed down to me for almost nothing due to the fact that nobody could make it run right, and it had been down multiple times...
I got it running smoothly (new TPS, TB gasket, IACV, EFI relay) except for some idling issues (crank shaft sensor probably), now the new chain, next is a new crankshaft sensor, then the suspension (Penske racing rear swhock and RaceTech fork valves and springs), and the previous owner will regret he ever got rid of it :D
It is banged up pretty bad with cosmetic blemishes all over, but the engine is good, when I'm done with it and the suspension is done, it will be a bad a$$ tiger.
I really appreciate all the help from this forum, and attribute 100% of my success so far to it.
if you go to replace the front sprocket - look up the threads on that one. It can be tough to remove that 36mm nut (or whatever size it is - I forget, but I have a socket just for it - and a REALLY long breaker bar off of ebay - a really nice snapon at a steal).
Thanks Walker. I have a 7 gallon air compressor, so I will just get an impact wrench gun and go to town on that nut, when I do it.
I am just loving this new chain. After we installed the link I took off but shouldn't have, it looked perfect! It is now at the begining of the adjustment range with about 40mm of slack. The previous one was touching the centerstand and the rail on the bottom with all the slack removed!
A bunch of links were jammed, and it was just a very beat up chain.
The old chain had about 25000 miles on it, it was installed at a dealer in Fairbanks, Alaska by previous owner. It had 116 links on it, which now I see it's 2 too much, unless it's the original OEM regina chain.
Anyway, a high rpm vibration that would shake the mirrors badly is now gone. It is much smoother.
It is very quiet too. The old chain would make a lot of ratling noise, not sure where from, but it was loud. This is now so quiet.
Also, before I was at the max of the adjustment range for minimum slack, with the wheel all the way back. Now I'm on the begining of the range, wheel all the way forward.
Doesn't that decrease my wheelbase by about 1 inch? That's HUGE! That would explain why I though the few corners I took to get home felt so good...or maybe I'm imagining things.