The problem of being semi able to bodge a job, is your mates who cant, tend to rely on you to make their mechanical woes worse.
So I have this mate with a Thunderbird Sport which has been diagnosed as having small end knock.
Now I dont mind doing a topend job for him, but how likely is it that the conrod which is worn and not the gudgeon pin and or piston? Any ratio stats? Wild guesses?
I really, really dont want to be opening the crank, that just reeks of impending hassle and disaster.
Is there anyway.....and I know I am asking for manna from heaven here... of replacing the conrod if it is the case by removing the head and block instead of going in from the bottom?
QuoteIs there anyway.....and I know I am asking for manna from heaven here... of replacing the conrod if it is the case by removing the head and block instead of going in from the bottom?
I don't think so, ' cause you have to have the crankshaft out I guess to get to the bolts at the big ends....but correct me if I'm wrong, I've never split the Tigger's casing before.
Quote from: "BruKen"Is there anyway.....and I know I am asking for manna from heaven here... of replacing the conrod if it is the case by removing the head and block instead of going in from the bottom?
to replace con rod you need to be able to access the nuts from the sump side and the rod has to go out the top
it's a substantial job with a lot that can go wrong
probably cheaper in the long run to find a ebay or breaker engine..........
well a word from Triumphant says that if the bike has been looked after it is always the conrod that goes on the middle cylinder based on their experience.
I dont fancy the job, and at an extra £140 per conrod, the total parts price would come very close to buying a warranteed rebuilt engine.
So Mr Mustang, you're right once again. You're a bit of a show stopper really fella. All debate ends once you have spoken :lol: So I told my mate his engine was fubar and to go elsewhere fruitfully.