I bought my 2005 Tiger 2nd hand 3 weeks ago, got 64K km. Today on my way to work the clutch cable failed. Is this failure's common and must I keep a spare with me on the bike at all times?
I'm going to get a cable make up, must I ask for a normal cable or an extra strong cable?
Ive notice that the clutch is way harder to pull than the KLR's clutch. My left arm's going to look like Popeye's arm
I think neglect is probably the reason for the failure - or harsh environment, or both. I don't think mileage is really relevant as long as they're maintained - my Yam is 38yrs old and still on the original clutch cable. The heavy feel is indicative of a cable about to fail. You should find it much lighter with a new cable. What cable to use? My advice, take the old one along and get them to copy it.
Sorry, I've just read your thread again. 2005 Tiger cables are PTFE lined and as such are maintainance-free. It should have been changed as soon as it started to feel rough. I don't think 64k kms is unreasonable.
I have not replaced a cable on a Tiger yet but when replacing them on other bikes, I will often route two new cables together so I have one to replace the failed cable and another in place just in case one fails at an inopportune time...
bb
Quote from: "billy bee"I have not replaced a cable on a Tiger yet but when replacing them on other bikes, I will often route two new cables together so I have one to replace the failed cable and another in place just in case one fails at an inopportune time...
bb
Always used to do that on my trials bike but with modern cables seems like a bit of overkill.
I've fitted a rubber bellows arrangement from a mountain bike brake cable over the exposed bit of inner cable at the bottom end of mine. And despite what other people say, I find lubricating it (thin oil like 3 in 1) does help.
Quote from: "iansoady"I've fitted a rubber bellows arrangement from a mountain bike brake cable over the exposed bit of inner cable at the bottom end of mine. And despite what other people say, I find lubricating it (thin oil like 3 in 1) does help.
thats how TDM850 clutch cables are, they have a flexible rubber bellows on the free cable end at the engine side.
I know a few guys carry solderless cable nipples for emergencies
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/5793 ... nd-Nipples (http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/579307/Spares/Cables/Economy/Universal-Cable-End-Nipples)
Thank you for all the reply's. I will get a cable place to make a new cable for me. How do I know if this were the original cable or not?
The cable snapped at the lead ball in on the clutch leaver.
Quote from: "Slowmow"Thank you for all the reply's. I will get a cable place to make a new cable for me. How do I know if this were the original cable or not?
The cable snapped at the lead ball in on the clutch leaver.
The nipple at the lever is supposed to have a nylon sheath and swivel in its hole in the blade, thereby maintaining a straight pull. A squirt of oil or grease there during a routine inspection is a good idea. If it can't rotate in the hole, the cable will be flexed right at the nipple whever the lever is pulled.
it snapped at the nipple cable junction, how this happens is the solder travels up the cable with a capillary action and restricts the movement of the cable causing the cable to fracture at this point. I guess I am lucky as the sister company where I work makes automotive cables.