I have a 2001 955i that will not idle, it takes 1/8 throttle to bring it up to about 1500 rpm and then is sound like its missing and is running really rich with black smoke out the tail pipe. At 3,000 rpm she runs normal. I made a mistake by washing it, tigers should stay dirty. After the bath I took her out for a spin and she ran well, after I came home I turned it off and pushed it into the shop to lube the chain. that is when it started acting up. my first thought was water in the tank so I ran the tank out and put in some heet to deal with the water. No change. I think maybe the washing time and engine issue may just be happen stance. any advice?
just for info the bike sometimes would turn over without cranking, but the next stab at the stater button she would fire up like normal. Also on occasion there is a squal when you turn on the key and it sould like possible fuel pump or maybe pressure regulator.
so anybody have a clue?
Every time I turn they key on and hit the kill switch to ON my fuel pump makes a racket... sort of a "Guuurrrrr Git Git Git Gurrrrrrrrr Buzzzz"
Totally normal from what I understand.
When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?
What about had a throttle body balance?
What about the air filter?
What about the battery? Fully charged??
Sounds to me you just need some general maintenance and a quick pop on TuneECU to check for errors and re-set the TPS.
just got it about 3 weeks ago. put around 7,000 miles on and runs perfect and then in a instant this happens. Tomorrow i am tearing into it, but I doubt it is a filter problem normally that gradually get bad. Well see
battery is charged fully.
How do you reset the tps?
Just a thought, but this bike uses an unecessarily complitated closed loop idling system.
The ECU senses via the TPS that you shut the thorttle off. Then it actuates a stepper motor (IACV) and it controls a small amount of air into the TBs. The crankshaft position sensor tells the ECU when to fire.
So, you have the ECU, Coils, spark plugs, TPS, IACV, and crankshaft sensor involved in the process of idling.
Chances are your ECU, sparkplugs, and coils are functional. If I were you, I would order the remaining two sensors and one actuator (TPS, crank sensor, and IACV), and replace them all.
I just got a 2000 885i with 50K on the odo. EVERY time I shut the throttle when coming to a stop, it would die. After the surgery, it is fixed.
Sounds about right mine has about 45,000 on it now
Where is a good place to get the parts
Quote from: "johnwesley"Sounds about right mine has about 45,000 on it now
Where is a good place to get the parts
if you want them fast, www.worldoftriumph.com (http://www.worldoftriumph.com) has had EVERYTHING I needed in stock. They are based in the UK, but shippments typically arrive here withing 5 business days.
The other option is your local Triumph dealer.... But they typically don't have things in stockl. My dealer had a 1 month wait on the TPS sensor.
My least favorite place to get Triumph parts is bikebandit.com, as they have a generic 3 weeks lead time on ANY Triumph part.
Of course, you should make sure you order the appropriate gaskets...I know you will need at least the throttle body gasket to replace the TPS sensor.
I ordered a set of nice Wiha torx bits set, directly from the Wiha site. The cheapo craftsman and equivalent are kinda chamfered on the tip, and prone to stripping screws, and that would suck in hard to reach places like the bolts that hold the TBs in place. just a thought...
Just to ad to what Haroldo said, the torx screws holding the TBs in place are quite soft; some have been known to strip them. If you have any trouble allen screw replacements are the way forward.
I did a TPS change "how to" a bit back, it's on here somewhere....
Bob (John :) )
Out of curiosity.... What typically happens when people strip the TB screw(s)?
Its not like there is enough room there to reach with an Easy Out drill... How do people get out of this pickle?
I am just worried that when I remove them again, one of the screws I kinda slipped the torx on it a little... I checked again and I could get a bite, but I'm just worried that when I remove it next time (will I need to?), I might be in trouble. Then what?
Prevention is better than cure. Use good quality tools for a good fit and to reduce the chances of any rounding off.
If you do round, go in with a nice sharp drill the same size as the thread. The drill will take the bolt head off without damaging anything else as long as you are careful and keep in the centre. Once the tension is off the bolt ( and whatever the bolt was holding in place is removed) you should be able to get the bolt out with a stud remover, although I managed with a mole wrench. Generally you are not overcoming corrosion, just the threadlock used to stop the bolts shaking loose.
That's the theory. In the case of the TBs, getting a drill to it could be the main challenge.
If the bolt shears off while using the stud extractor, then you're in deep. RF9Rider (I think) has a procedure for removing stuck bolts which sounded good using a 12-spline torx bit which is detailed on another thread somewhere. I'd probably go for a drill the dia used to tap the bolt hole in the first place, then use a tap to clean the thread out. It's risky though if you aren't practiced. You'll more likely end up with a figure-of-eight hole.
I've striped it down and nothing obvious. All filters good gaskets all lood good. Plugs are black and wet. The bike continued to get worse until it would start. I beleive that is be ause it was running so rich it fouled the plugs out. Back fires and spits but no start. I may just order the above parts any thoughts?
You need plugs too then.
I'm not saying this is the cause, but one possible scenario is that your IACV is not moving properly during start up and idle preventing air from getting in the TBs, causing you rich condition. Not sure, just theorizing. Also, a faulty TPS sensor would prevent the ECU from knowing that throttle is shut, thus also causing the IACV not to open when it should. Again, just theorizing, and others with more experience with the Tigers will propably jump in and correct me if I'm off line.
If you are also going to replace the crankshaft pos. sensor, you need the clutch cover gasket. For the TPS sensor, the TBs will have to come out, so you will need the TBs gasket too.
I believe after you replace these sensors, plugs, IACV, and respective gaskets, you will without a doubt improve / change your situation, and IF you still have issues, it should be easier to narrow down the cause.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Quote from: "johnwesley"Back fires and spits but no start. ................ any thoughts?
start with
1. what are the valve clearances , if you have some intakes at zero clearance you have found the problem
tight intakes will cause the above symptoms
Also, the crank sensor on the 885i and the 955i are different (and different prices as well).
No good yet. Replaced all filter and plugs. Fresh charge on battery. Same condition. Running extreemly rich with black smoke and will not idledue to richness. The old plugs that were pulled are black and wet.
Quote from: "johnwesley"I have a 2001 955i that will not idle, it takes 1/8 throttle to bring it up to about 1500 rpm and then is sound like its missing and is running really rich with black smoke out the tail pipe. At 3,000 rpm she runs normal. I made a mistake by washing it, tigers should stay dirty. After the bath I took her out for a spin and she ran well, after I came home I turned it off and pushed it into the shop to lube the chain. that is when it started acting up. my first thought was water in the tank so I ran the tank out and put in some heet to deal with the water. No change. I think maybe the washing time and engine issue may just be happen stance. any advice?
just for info the bike sometimes would turn over without cranking, but the next stab at the stater button she would fire up like normal. Also on occasion there is a squal when you turn on the key and it sould like possible fuel pump or maybe pressure regulator.
so anybody have a clue?
If I have had the tank off, the first time I turn the ignition on there is a squealing as the fuel pump builds pressure back up, but also I noticed that when my IACV packed up it also made weird noises when i first turned on, Given that your problems seem to be related to idle I would check the IACV valve and all the hoses out, but also it may even be worth pulling the connectors off the brain and cleaning the terminals with contact cleaner or similar, Ive read recently on here about a guy with similar symptoms which doing this fixed it.
My fuel pump makes a noise every time I fire her up if she's stood for more than a few minutes. Blackbird does the same. It doesn't mean anything....
It ran ok after washing so that's probably not related. Mustang's the man who knows, I'd bite the bullet on valve clearance checks; they're are no big deal after the first time so you may as well pop your cherry now. Plenty of info on here about how....
Bixxer Bob,
Off topic I know but on my run out today I met a Japanese 4x4, don't ask me which kind as they all look the same to me :? The registration plate was B1 XER and I thought of you John!! :D
:twisted: Imposter!!!
:ImaPoser
I have the bike at the Plano Texas dealer. Hope it's a good one. 1st time I've been to a dealer for help in years. Fuel injection just not a easy fix. 1st fuel injection bike and first one I can't fix on my own. Guess we'll see how it goes. Hope it's a fluke and I'll get many trouble free miles or I'll be back to what I can work on
Quote from: "johnwesley"I have the bike at the Plano Texas dealer. Hope it's a good one. 1st time I've been to a dealer for help in years. Fuel injection just not a easy fix. 1st fuel injection bike and first one I can't fix on my own. Guess we'll see how it goes. Hope it's a fluke and I'll get many trouble free miles or I'll be back to what I can work on
FI bikes are not rocket science. Typically, the ECU is never the problem.
With that rulled out, you have a plethora of sensors, actuators, harnesses, and others, which you can trouble shoot like any other system.
These are extremelly simple fuel injected motorcycles. If you start to learn about how they work, you will find out that you can work on them just like any other motorcycle.
You just have to dig into it and get over the initial learning hump.
Hope your right. I fairly good with automotive tbi systems. This is a little more complacated than that, but I just got the bike. You are right Ill ge use to it after Ive had it a while. Just frustrating right now. Seems that the temp sensor was unpluged and has been for a long time. Could be the water shorted it ..... Maybe, it's hooked back up now and well see I that was the only problem. Dealing with a funeral now so should know more next week. Thanks for the encouragement
How's it coming johnwesley? Hoping the dealer is taking good, honest care of you.
He did good. Runs great and they even adjust the kick stand. Nice place. I'm now back in the saddle and working on a skid plate
Did he say what was wrong?
It was a temp switch that was unplugged. They said that it had been unplugged for awhile. Not sure why it acted up after a washing and why it ran well on the trip before. He did say the bad gas milage I had on a few tanks was because of the sensor. Why it wasn't constant I do not know. It must have been unplugged when I got it and maybe why it was so cheap. Either way it is running good and I like it a lot. Seems to be a good cross between my zrx and klr
Good to hear it was an easy fix and you are back on the road!