TigerTriple.com

So I am new to the site and Tigers and haven't really ridden in quite some time.

I picked up a red '96 Tiger with 11K on it from Oregon last week.  Nice bike, never dropped and overall great shape.  Came with D&D pipes and Thunderbike crash bars.  All for $1,800.  I'm happy.  

My plans are to paint the bike as I am not a huge fan of the graphics and the red isn't doing it for me.  I am also going to install a taller touring screen, a center stand, dual sport tires and plenty of other goodies along the way.  

My questions are:

1) The D&D pipes are a little loud.  I know, I know.  I'm only 39!  haha.  I was considering putting stock pipes back on.  Will the power loss be that significant?  I don't want scooter quiet, but I'd prefer a nice rumble on the highway rather than H-D style motoring.  

2) I bought the bike from Oregon and upon getting it on the road the bike stumbles pretty bad.  The elevation change from Medford, OR to Northern VA (where I live) isn't that much different, so I am ruling out carbs being out of adjustment and hoping it's old/bad/water in the fuel.  The bike hasn't been ridden in a while and I plan on trying that first.  Not to mention it's very low on fuel, so maybe it's picking up the "bad" fuel.  (My new Shoei hasn't arrived yet!)  The PO stated he had the carbs rebuilt - when I am not sure.  

3) Anything else I need to look for or keep an eye on?

I am use to all things British as I have been hoarding Land Rovers for the past 12 years.  I am hoping this Tiger won't give me high blood pressure like the Land Rovers.  :)  

Thanks in advance and I look forward to many years of motoring with this bike.  

Cheers,

Garrett

Oregon must be the land o' plenty for low mile Steamers.  I bought mine from there last month, only 9000 miles on the clock.  When I got mine, it had some of the same symptoms you describe.  In the end, the carbs needs to be taken off and given a really good cleaning as they were pretty gummed up.  The PO told me the carbs had been rebuilt as well, but I don't think that was the case.  The little o-rings in my carbs were all dried out as well and needed to be replaced.  The bike runs like a champ now.

For what it is worth, I would repaint the bike.  I realise you got it for pretty cheap, but to me, a repainted bike loses a significant amount of its value.  Down the road, if you decided to sell it, you'd get a lot more customers with an original bike than a repainted one.  Just my 2 cents there.

the power difference between the d&d's and the stock pipe is very minute ,
the noise level on the other hand is extreme ....stealth mode is quite nice . :D

clean out the pilot jets and pilot circuit in the carbs ..it will make a huge difference .

Good to know.  I think I will swap in the stock pipes.  

I don't need to scare puppies and babies every time I fire it up.  :)  

Will get to cleaning the carbs next week.

Thanks,

Garrett

I should have looked at it earlier, but I noticed that both intakes are open and the right hand side is NOT covered.  Before I dive into the carbs this weekend, what kind of issues occur because of this?  

I thought I had some bad gas in the bike with low fuel level as the bike rode great after a fill up, but quickly (about 5 miles) went back to cutting out really bad.  It idles perfect.  

I suppose I can cap the right side with a temp cover and see any differences it makes.  

Thanks

Quote from: "garrett"I should have looked at it earlier, but I noticed that both intakes are open and the right hand side is NOT covered.  Before I dive into the carbs this weekend, what kind of issues occur because of this?  

I thought I had some bad gas in the bike with low fuel level as the bike rode great after a fill up, but quickly (about 5 miles) went back to cutting out really bad.  It idles perfect.  

I suppose I can cap the right side with a temp cover and see any differences it makes.  

Thanks

Neither of my '96 triumphs run well at all without one side capped. They lose power around 3000 rpms or so with a hard stumble.

Quote from: "garrett"I should have looked at it earlier, but I noticed that both intakes are open and the right hand side is NOT covered.  Before I dive into the carbs this weekend, what kind of issues occur because of this?  

I thought I had some bad gas in the bike with low fuel level as the bike rode great after a fill up, but quickly (about 5 miles) went back to cutting out really bad.  It idles perfect.  

I suppose I can cap the right side with a temp cover and see any differences it makes.  

Thanks

will run at idle great
willrun ok up to about 4500 rpm then cut out or break up badly(too mch air and not enuff fuel

if the previous owner had it rejetted it may run extremely rich with the snorkel capped

if your mikunis are stock jetting they will have 105's for main jets and the pilots are probably going to be 38's
the needles should be in the center notch for stock
the pilot screws should be at about 1 1/2 turns out from closed

if they have 40's for pilots it will be fine also

if your main jets are bigger like 115's than it has been rejetted to run with the snorkel open on both sides

rejetting on a steamer because the snorkels are opened usually only makes  a mikuni get worse mileage and not really any additional power

mikunis came pretty spot on from the factory , maybe just a tad lean on the pilot circuit , 40's or opening the pilot screws to 2 or 2 1/2 turns fixes the lean pilot

if the bike has sat around without running for awhile you need to clean out the varnish from old gas and probably pay close attention to make sure the pilot jets are open and not plugged

Quote from: "Mustang"will run at idle great
willrun ok up to about 4500 rpm then cut out or break up badly(too mch air and not enuff fuel

if the previous owner had it rejetted it may run extremely rich with the snorkel capped

if your mikunis are stock jetting they will have 105's for main jets and the pilots are probably going to be 38's
the needles should be in the center notch for stock
the pilot screws should be at about 1 1/2 turns out from closed

if they have 40's for pilots it will be fine also

if your main jets are bigger like 115's than it has been rejetted to run with the snorkel open on both sides

rejetting on a steamer because the snorkels are opened usually only makes  a mikuni get worse mileage and not really any additional power

mikunis came pretty spot on from the factory , maybe just a tad lean on the pilot circuit , 40's or opening the pilot screws to 2 or 2 1/2 turns fixes the lean pilot

if the bike has sat around without running for awhile you need to clean out the varnish from old gas and probably pay close attention to make sure the pilot jets are open and not plugged

Interesting...When I got my Tigger, it didn't start very well and idled poorly, but ran great from 2500rpm on.  When I took it apart to have the carbs cleaned, I noticed the snorkle on the RH side was open.  I read here that it was supposed to be closed, so I covered it back up.  Since then, the bike has run great, but I do notice it runs a little rich, evidence by the black soot at the talipipes.  I have also noticed my gas mileage has been a little on the poor side.  In looking through the service records I got with the bike, I seem to remember something about the PO having 110 main jets installed.  It seems to make sense now.  I guess I will open up that snorkle again and see what happens.

Ok.  Good info.  Thank you.

I spoke to the PO last night.  He stated that the carbs were cleaned and adjusted 3 months ago.  I know it had been done, but didn't know when.  

He didn't ride it much after the work was done.  Am I kidding myself in thinking there could be another reason for this issue?

Quote from: "garrett"Ok.  Good info.  Thank you.

I spoke to the PO last night.  He stated that the carbs were cleaned and adjusted 3 months ago.  I know it had been done, but didn't know when.  

He didn't ride it much after the work was done.  Am I kidding myself in thinking there could be another reason for this issue?

Hi.

Excuse me if I have missed this.  Can you tell us when the engine seems to struggle?  Is it at a certain rev range, or when the throttle is held open for a sustained period of time?

This would be my check list:

With standard carbs one side of the air box should be blocked else this causes the engine to splutter at higher revs.  The airboxes are not exactly air tight, but ensure the rubbers are in place and that the drain hose is in place and is blocked with a rubber insert at the bottom.

Check the rubbers are not perished between the engine and the carbs.

When the engine struggles, can you look at the rev counter.  If the rev counter drops to zero, the pickup sensor is at fault.

Check the fuel tap is not blocked and that the filter inside the tank is clean.  I had this problem.  There was crap in the tap that only obstructed the flow periodically.

Check the plugs, coils and HT leads.  (coils should read 6 ohms resistance across the '-' and '+').

Check the filter on the carb.  It is located inside the hose at the carb end of the fuel hose from the tank to the carbs.

Double check the carbs pilot screws and ensure the carbs are balanced.  Also check the vacuum caps are in place on top of the carbs (probably should be higher up the list).

If the problem persists, I would be looking to strip the carbs regardless of any previous work I was notified of - this may even have been the start of the problem.

Thanks again for the good information.  I have a crazy work schedule this week, but have most of next week to mess around with the bike.  I'll be able to go through all your suggestions and check them off.

Thanks again and I will post back soon with my findings.

Cheers

I failed to mention though that the bike seems to struggle anytime it's under throttle.  It idles just fine, but once it's under load it sputters really bad.  I can't really say what particular RPM band is worse.  It will sputter cruising down my gravel road at 10-20 mph and it will do the same (more pronounced) at 4-5K RPM at higher speeds.  It appears to lessen with less throttle though at highway speeds.

This isn't a minor "sputter" or rough engine, but it will cut out pretty bad for a split second at a time and then build up some power and then back off again.  

The bike will run at 80+ mph with no issues.  It will get there, but far from smooth.

put a multi meter on the coils you should see .6 ohms across the coil terminals

same for the ignition pick up sensor on the crank the plug is under the airbox you should see .6 ohms across the plug

if out of range theres your problem

if it's in range then its valve clearances or carbs

keep in mind though that even they check .6 ohms on the coils they can still be  bad

Quote from: "Mustang"..keep in mind though that even they check .6 ohms on the coils they can still be  bad

Same goes for the crank sensor..... :roll:

So I finally had some time to get the plastic off and start getting this figured out today.  

The short rubber hose from the middle carb to the motor appeared to have buckled itself on the carb side.  Not sure how this would happen, but the edge of the hose was tucked up a bit and bulging out on one side.  An apparent gap was seen.  

Not sure if I did this while fixing the hose, but the arm that connects all three carbs was bent at the end and was not connecting to the third carb.  I am GUESSING I did that while prying the hose around.  

Left all my tools at work, so I should know more during the middle of the week.

The weather finally warmed up enough for me to get everything back together on the bike.  I cleaned the carbs in an electrolysis parts washer, installed Nuolgy coils, recovered the seat, new plugs and a few other little bits.  I noticed some dirt in the bottom of one of the bowls.  I bet that was my culprit.  

Fires up nicely and runs out very well now.  

Going to finish up with putting an MSA screen on the bike, new tires, tank bag and a few other goodies.  

Just in time for $4+ gallon fuel.  

I am sure I will have plenty of questions along the way.  I've been driving a Tacoma for a year now and I need to tinker with something this summer.

:hello2

$4 a gallon - those were the days!!

Just done a bit of number crunching and to get yourself a good 'ol US gallon of gas over here in blighty will cost you $8.50 at the moment, over half of which ends up in government hands.

Bloody tories/liberals/labour - they're all to blame.

cheers gav. ya saved me doin sum maffs :lol:

What really pisses me off is you pay 20% VAT on their 60+ % duty. Paying tax on tax the thieving robbing bastids. :x  :x

Quote from: "GavD"$4 a gallon - those were the days!!

Just done a bit of number crunching and to get yourself a good 'ol US gallon of gas over here in blighty will cost you $8.50 at the moment, over half of which ends up in government hands.

Bloody tories/liberals/labour - they're all to blame.

Yeh but you guys get the options to buy nice little VW Polo Tdis that can muster 60-70mpg without looking like a tart in a Prius.  Not to mention all the other great Tdis you have rolling around the UK.  

I paid $4.26 for premium today.

wash your mouth out !! tdi,s  :o  please :roll:  deisel is for lorries, tractors and taxis.  too slow and smelly. who cares bout fuel consumption when ya goin fast:lol:

Quote from: "rybes"wash your mouth out !! tdi,s  :o  please :roll:  deisel is for lorries, tractors and taxis.  too slow and smelly. who cares bout fuel consumption when ya goin fast:lol:

In my line of work Tdis are the vehicle of choice.  I am military driving instructor with SF groups here in the US.  Their primary choice of vehicle is the Toyota Hilux.  Essentially a Tdi version of the Tacoma.  Long range use, simple, durable and lots of low end power.  Not to mention being able to service a truck like that in every continent.  

Slow you say?  How about a VW Tourag TDI pumping out 340HP doing over 150mph.  Or a BMW Aplina, MB E350 CDI, Jag XF diesel with 275 hp or maybe the soon to be Audi R8 with 500 hp TDI.  And lets not forget the Audi TDIs running LeMans pumping out 600+ hp and 200 mph.  

Still not fast enough.  How about the JCB Dieselmax.  350 mph.  

http://www.jcbdieselmax.com/html/car.php (http://www.jcbdieselmax.com/html/car.php)

Long gone are the days of the stinky and slow diesels associated with cab drivers and the French.

Ya, and lets not forget diesel KLRs!

Oh, wait...those are stinky and slow.   :wink:

The military was using some Polaris diesel ATvs for a while, but most of the groups we work only use gas ATV and side by sides.  They have some pretty cool variants out there with ceramic armor, .50 cal mounts, rear facing seating, beadlocks, IR, etc.  

A lot of patrolling is done on side by sides now.  Removes them from having to use roadways.  Roadways = IEDs.

Ok a few more questions about this bike.  

I got it running quite well several months ago and it started to sputter again.  For sure I know it's the carbs getting mucked up.  Pulled them off and there is some minor crud in the bottom of the bowls.  The small inline filter at the carbs has some material in it as well.  

But since I am ditching the D&D cans and going back to stock I wanted to make sure I had stock 105 jets on the carbs.  Pulled them out and they are stamped 107.5.  

So before everything goes back on in a few weeks I want to get some 105 main jets and inline filter installed.

Anything else I need to have a heads up on?  Best place to get a jet kit?  Or just take the existing jets to a local bike shop and match up the jet style?  

Thanks in advance.

Have you eliminated the micro fuel filters in the tank that have a tendency to collapse?

Quote from: "mantramoto"Have you eliminated the micro fuel filters in the tank that have a tendency to collapse?

I just got rid of those the other day.  They were both collapsed, causing issues for me when I switched to reserve.  No problems since.  I have a small inline filter now so I can see if there is any crud causing problems.

Quote from: "mantramoto"Have you eliminated the micro fuel filters in the tank that have a tendency to collapse?

I don't think I even knew those existed.  I only cleaned the one out that is in the line from the carbs.

I didn't know about them either.

Are they on other Triumphs from the same / similar years?

Is there a thread for dealing with those in-tank filters?

I think I'd want to remove those if they're there. In the archives of work orders that were done on my 96 tiger the PO had a lot of problems with "strange junk showing up in the float bowls" every year when the bike was taken out of storage up to 20,000 miles where the records disappear. I suspect these were the root cause. Cost the previous owner quite a bit of dough over the years. So far no problems but I've only been riding it for two years now.

Quote from: "Colonel Nikolai"I didn't know about them either.

Are they on other Triumphs from the same / similar years?

Is there a thread for dealing with those in-tank filters?

I think I'd want to remove those if they're there. In the archives of work orders that were done on my 96 tiger the PO had a lot of problems with "strange junk showing up in the float bowls" every year when the bike was taken out of storage up to 20,000 miles where the records disappear. I suspect these were the root cause. Cost the previous owner quite a bit of dough over the years. So far no problems but I've only been riding it for two years now.

Wouldn't those filters stop strange junk from showing up in the float bowls?  Just get clogged up and cause issues with flow.

When I first got my '96 I remember someone saying they opened up the tops of the filters - drilling a small hole in them, or melting a hole through them or something.  That's what I found on my bike when I was buying a new petcock to replace my leaking one...

Another related subject is rerouting the fuel line.  I think that helped my switching to reserve fuel starvation issue.  Maybe.

Pat

So there are filters as part of the petcock?  I looked up the assembly on Bike Bandit and didn't see any mention of them.  

Something is clearly getting past the little in-line filter above the carbs though.  

I won't have time to get to looking at this for another week or so.

Quote from: "Mudhen"Wouldn't those filters stop strange junk from showing up in the float bowls?  Just get clogged up and cause issues with flow.

Not if they're collapsed and / or screwed up somehow?

Quote from: "garrett"So there are filters as part of the petcock?  I looked up the assembly on Bike Bandit and didn't see any mention of them.  

Something is clearly getting past the little in-line filter above the carbs though.  

I won't have time to get to looking at this for another week or so.

Yes, both inlets on the top of the petcock tubes have filters on them.  They're not replaceable which is probably why BB doesn't mention them.

Sort of like the air filter, when it comes time to replace, buy a whole new petcock and get the filters - FREE!

 :roll:

Finally got some time today to remove the petcock and drain the fuel.  I figured it was dirty, but not this dirty.  Dang.  There was some crap in there for sure.  The "filters" on the petcock didn't have anything on them, but I am sure it all came off as I was draining the tank.  *There was a little water in the bucket, so that's why you see that ring on the bottom.*  

Hopefully I got most of it.  

Picking up some 105 main jets tomorrow and have the stock exhaust on now.

Will get it back together next week sometime and should be running happier and longer without interruption.

oooooo thas bad petrol. get some fairy liquid and a scrubin brush and itll come up good as new  :lol:

Quote from: "rybes"oooooo thas bad petrol. get some fairy liquid and a scrubin brush and itll come up good as new  :lol:

what, the bucket or the inside of his tank?

And please tell me what "fairy fluid" is! :lol:

Quote from: "JetdocX"And please tell me what "fairy fluid" is! :lol:

Do we REALLY want to know ?

I was gonna post an image but had second thoughts ................ :ImaPoser

(http://www.mixedweddings.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/7.jpg)

 :icon_scratch dishwashing liquid

(http://www.maximumbikes.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/dunno.gif)

Quote from: "JetdocX"And please tell me what "fairy fluid" is! :lol:

you live in San Francisco, and you have to ask :shock:

i dunno, eh bruken ? these colonials really need to do their homework on their foundin fathers  :lol:















now i shall run to a safe distance and hide  :lol:  :lol:

(http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/6/1253/fairy%20soap%20450ml.jpg)

"washes more plates with every squirt".....WTF?  Where do you squeeze the Fairy to get the liquid?  Is that why it's green, or does it react with oxygen?  Why would I want to wash my plates in it?  How many fairies have to be milked to fill this container?  

This sounds awful!  I'm reporting you all to PETF! :roll:

you think thats bad jet. just think about baby oil  :lol:

Quote from: "rybes"you think thats bad jet. just think about baby oil  :lol:

Baby backribs!  MMMMMMMMMMMMMM!  Bacon on a stick!

(http://www.talesfromthefoot.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/the-shark-jump-the-shark-demotivational-poster.jpg)

I just can't wait  until he gets the bike to the nirvana of stock...and then has to put up with that big'ol flat spot at 4k rpm...

 :lol:

Whoa, whoa, whoa......what flat spot?  I prefer to short shift around 2000 RPM like the Harley folks.  haha.  I am use to Land Rovers, so flat spots in the tall part of the gear is normal.  Must be a British thing.  

Will fairy fluid get out the stripper glitter I got on my shirt?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlbbW0G_ ... re=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlbbW0G_m2Q&feature=related)

it lasts 8 days longer so ya never know :lol:

Go Rybes! Go! Shake that booty  :lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E3QlgxexZA&NR=1&feature=fvwp

:ImaPoser you tosser  :wink:  :lol:

:lol:  just a gentle ribbing.  I'm a bad man.  :lol:

thas ok , i can take a ribbin  :lol:  had to post that in another forum as i know someone who does that jugglin. lets just say he wernt impressed  :lol:  :lol:

whoa - wait- lets get back to the green fairy juice and jetdocx :lol: you need to move back up north bro :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Quote from: "aeronca"whoa - wait- lets get back to the green fairy juice and jetdocx :lol: you need to move back up north bro :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

No f'ing way!  The weather sucks and there's no lane splitting.  I might never go back... :roll:

Yep still at it.  

So I get the stock 105 jets in there and button everything back up.  Backed out the pilot jets 1.5-2 turns as well after seated.  

Toss the tank on and it fires up and idles good with a little throttle appears to be AOK.  The neutral light isn't working and it won't start in neutral unless the clutch is in.  Assuming that's just a bulb or wire issue.  

I go about putting the rest of the plastic on and hooking up the low fuel sender and clock.  

15 minutes later I try and fire it up and nothing.  Turns over and over, but doesn't fire up.  

Bowls have fluid and everything looks clean.  

I pull the carbs off again for one more quick look and clean out with some starter fluid, pull main jet, etc.  Everything back on and nothing again.  

I don't have comprehensive insurance, so I can't burn it.........yet.  :)  

What am I missing?  The weak link is usually the person sitting on it.

seeing how it won't start without the clutch pulled in and you have no neutral light ................I bet if you put the sidestand up it will fire right away  :oops:  :lol:

I actually put it up and down, in gear, in neutral, etc.  Still the same result, but after I calm down a little I will head back over to my shop and try again.

If it ends up being that simple, I will stab myself with a flat head.  I am getting good at getting those carbs installed on all the boots within 2 min.

Kill switch?  I've never done anything like that myself.... :oops:

Quote from: "JetdocX"Kill switch?  I've never done anything like that myself.... :oops:

doubtful......motor will not spin with kill switch on

Quote from: "garret"15 minutes later I try and fire it up and nothing. Turns over and over, but doesn't fire up.

I went back to the shop several hours later and it started, but was pretty rough until it ran a few minutes.  Hard to tell if it's 100%, but once I get the plastic on and run it a bit I will know more.  

Sure is quiet now with those stock pipes!  Ahhhh.  Now I won't annoy the locals in my uppity quiet town.  haha.  

Though I did see a fellow Steamer owner roll through on route 50 heading west a few weeks ago.

PS:  I've hit the kill switch at a stop sign by accident.  Almost as bad a dropping the bike in my yard.

So she is up and running now.  Seems to run pretty nice.  I even got a local here in a 7 series to try and race me along route 50.  What the......  I was just trying the bike out with the new setup and I guess he thought I wanted "to go".  

But it's smooth and no apparent flat spots like Mr. Meanie Pants from Maine was suggesting.  I didn't think the Mikunis had flat spots.  Just some very slight stumbling at low RPMs when starting out.  No biggie.  

The dirt tires make a little noise, but nothing like the D&D cans did.  

Maybe the loudness made the bike appear to be faster/quicker, but I do prefer the quieter bike.  

Put about 60 miles on the bike today......all seems well.  For now.  :)

Quote from: "garrett"But it's smooth and no apparent flat spots like Mr. Meanie Pants from Maine was suggesting.  I didn't think the Mikunis had flat spots.  Just some very slight stumbling at low RPMs when starting out.  No biggie.  

The dirt tires make a little noise, but nothing like the D&D cans did.  

 :lol:

My bike had a huge flat spot when I got it.  I rejetted, removed the blanking cap on the airbox, and got some loud cans... :wink:

Awesome that you got 'er running good.  Now get out there and get us some pics... :thumbsup

Just a few items to tidy up yet before pix.  Need to install the MSA screen with a little creativity and I'm good.  I've also go a set of PIAAs that are just sitting here dying to go on too that I took off one of our trucks.  

Then maybe a set of Ortlieb bags.  Hmmmm.  I did mount a small Pelican on the back though.  

Are you running stock jets?  With those stock cans I feel like I am riding a Vespa compared to the D&Ds.  

Still getting use to the dirt tires as they don't dig the heavy braking as much.  haha

Quote from: "garrett"I've also go a set of PIAAs that are just sitting here dying to go on too that I took off one of our trucks.  

just remember you only have a little less than 400 watts to play with from the alt.
The headlights alone are drawing 110

Quote from: "garrett"Just a few items to tidy up yet before pix.  Need to install the MSA screen with a little creativity and I'm good.  I've also go a set of PIAAs that are just sitting here dying to go on too that I took off one of our trucks.  

You should be fine with 35+35W PIAA bulbs, but anything higher and you can kiss goodbye to things like heated grips.

Electrical usage on a typical steamer:

H4 front headlights 55+55W (50+50W dipped)
B9S sidelights (20+20W)
Indicators (20+20W) (theoretically, you could have all four on).
Rear lights (5+5W)
Brake lights (21+21W)
Clocks illumination (9x5 = 45W)
Idiot lights (6x5 = 30W)

Ideally, the electrical system should be able to handle everything being on that could possibly be on + extras.

Theoretical max consumption:
210W  : When hitting the pass button, it keeps the dipped beam on whilst lighting full beam.
40W    : Side lights.
45W    : Dash illumination.
30W    : All idiot lights on.
80W    : Indicators on hazard.
10W    : Rear lights.
42W    : Brake lights.

457W   : Total theoretical usage.

The alternator only puts out 360W.

I would budget for the following usage:
110W    : Full beam on
40W      : Side lights
45W      : Dash illumination
25W      : Idiot lights
10W      : Rear lights
42W      : Brake lights
40W      : Indictors

312W     : Total, giving you only 48W to play with.


You can save 40 watts by changing the dash illumination from filament bulbs to LEDs.

You can save 30W by changing the side lights to 5 watts (or a little more if you use LEDs).

You can change the indicators, and rear light bulbs, saving more power, but the saving varies depending on the quality of the bulbs used.

You budget brake light and indicator lights?  If you dip below the line for the few seconds those are on, the alternator/battery doesn't recover?

Thanks for posting those numbers - that's awesome.  I need to look at what I'm really running at with my heated gear on...

Pat

Quote from: "Mudhen"You budget brake light and indicator lights?  If you dip below the line for the few seconds those are on, the alternator/battery doesn't recover?

If you use more power than your alternator can put out then the battery will make up the difference until the battery runs flat,  Even running close to the 360W may cause the battery not to charge or not charge efficiently.  There is a 30A fuse in line with the alternator, so you shouldn't damage the alternator, but I can't say that for certain.

QuoteYou can save 40 watts by changing the dash illumination from filament bulbs to LEDs.

You can save 30W by changing the side lights to 5 watts (or a little more if you use LEDs).

You can change the indicators, and rear light bulbs, saving more power, but the saving varies depending on the quality of the bulbs used.

Quite right.
The only bulbs I have left on my steamer are the headlights and the fuel sensor light. All others are replaced by LEDS.

See my post:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7842 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7842)

I like recycling threads, so with that I've got a question about the headlights on these bikes.  

These are single element bulbs in each correct?  Because with my low beam on (both lights are lit) and I hit the high beam I get no change.  I do hear the relay.  Everything worked when I first got the bike as it passed inspection, but I forget how the lights were set up.  I never changed anything, so I'm not sure what changed.

Do I just have a bad relay?  I see that there are two under the lights.  Or is this the work of British electronics and my years of Land Rover ownership coming to haunt me.  

Not long ago another gremlin started.  The neutral light does not work and the stand has to be up to start as it won't do so in neutral now.  That's secondary to the headlight issue as inspection time is coming up.  

Thank you,

Quote from: "garrett"These are single element bulbs in each correct?  Because with my low beam on (both lights are lit) and I hit the high beam I get no change.  I do hear the relay.

Each headlight should have a dual-filament bulb. There are two relays for the headlights mounted between them under the fairing.

If they are broke: They are Hellas. I tried substituting another brand with the same spec, don't try it. Buy the Hellas that are the same as the ones on your bike.

I would have thought so, but mine are single element.  Interesting.  

Good to know about the Hella's.  Those are not always common at part stores, so I'll make sure I still with OEM.  

Thanks,