:D is the ecu just a straight swap or will it need to be coded any help pls thanks DB
Hi DB, it's a straight swap, provided the replacement ECU has a compatible map for your bike and it's the same model of ECU.
I have a second ECU for my Girly which came with a Daytona map. To say it ran rough is an understatement. I blew in a Tiger map using TuneECU and then it was fine.
Just be careful with the connectors, the pins are very fine. Oh, and why are you swapping it? And where are you?
ay up thanks for the reply i will have to sourse one then , the reason i need to swap it because the fuel light will not come on when empty also the fuel gauge will not read , i have done all the relevent tests ,resistance and such like, so the only avenue is ECU unfortunatly DB
oh yes im in the UK a little place called Biddulph in Stafordshire , DB
I would probably bet on it not bieng the ECU, so if you're up for a ride over to the Huntingdon area, you can try my spare if you like, might save you a bob or two. I'm retired (sort of) so timing is pretty much up to you. I'll be busy next weekend though, it being Armistice an' all.
thanks for the offer very nice , the bike is at work and im tryin to fix it i have tested evry mortal thing just nothing to show all points to the ecu , if i plug it in will it show an error code in the ECU ?
Have you taken the sender unit out of the tank?
Mine was doing the same thing and it was the float stuck towards the bottom of the tube, always showed nearly empty, but not low enough for the light to come on, I manged to free mine off and its been fine ever since
Quote from: "Daddy Bear"thanks for the offer very nice , the bike is at work and im tryin to fix it i have tested evry mortal thing just nothing to show all points to the ecu , if i plug it in will it show an error code in the ECU ?
First, I'll re-state I think it's very unlikely it's the ECU, they almost never go wrong and if they do, it's usually the fueling they mess up. I can remember only one on here and I think it was Hockley Boy but I'm probably wrong on that.
Next, I think Tim's right - that's where your fault is likely to be and no amount of testing will reveal a fault like that because everything's doing what it should ie not showing anything because the float's jammed at the bottom, not an electrical fault.
Lastly, and to answer your question, if it is the float, and it's stuck but everything else is ok, you won't have any codes. Also, if there were codes to read the MIL light would be on. Oh, and if the ECU was playing up, you couldn't trust the codes anyway.
If you do decide to pop over and try my spare ECU, it's a fairly straight run over here, if I remember right you're near Stoke so it's a nice run down the A50, M1 to Leics, pick up the A47 to the A1 and you're nearly here. Quick try of the ECU and a bacon buttie, then home in the afternoon :wink:
His problem may be in the ECU. I am having a problem with my fuel gauge that I also have tracked down to the ECU.
Occasionally, after filling my bike and resuming my trip, my gauge will act very strange. The fuel level will be full, like it should be, then after a few minutes of travel it will start falling to empty. It will set the low fuel light, then start climbing back up to full. Within seconds of hitting full it will start falling again to empty and the cycle keeps repeating. The only way to clear the problem is to stop the bike, shut it off and have lunch. As soon as it sits a while it works perfectly.
Before you say anything about the sender, I have replaced it with a new updated sender and the problem is EXACTLY the change. You simply would not find two senders having the exact same problem. I also swapped out the one from my dads perfectly working Tiger and it did the same, so the sender is not the problem. If the gauge was faulty, it would not set the low fuel light.
I was getting a low fuel input voltage code in the ECM. So I ran all new wires from the ECM to the fuel sender and to grounds to ensure that all voltages were perfect and there was not breaks in the wires.
Last on the list is the ECM.
fair enough Sasquatch, think yours is that way then, but I wouldnt want to go down the ECU route before checking, mine was obviously the sender unit when I pulled it and saw the float stuck in the tube, I was lucky then.
Still, with Bobs offer of trying an ECU, spose its worth a go, easier than pulling the tank etc.
I've had the same problem off and on with the fuel gauge, exactly as Sasquatch describes except in my case it clears itself after a few miles without the need to stop and reset so either we have a common problem in the gauge or a common problem in the ECU. But if it's ECU, I can't see why it's triggered by filling up. Time for some pondering I think. Unfortunately, it's a while since mine did it so swapping the ECU wouldn't help at the moment.
Ok, pondered a bit. First I think, judging by Sasquatch's famous wiring mod that he has a better grounding in electics than me, so be gentle with me.
Gauge, light and ECU share the same ground point so I'm assuming that's been checked.
Gauge has two resistors, either of which, if faulty, could influence this.
Sas, what codes did you get exactly? P0230, P0462, P0463, P1231, P1232, P1611, P1612, P1621, P1622
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Sas, what codes did you get exactly? P0230, P0462, P0463, P1231, P1232, P1611, P1612, P1621, P1622
PO462 and 463 are fault codes for the sender unit giving the wrong voltage when the ecu expects something else ..............
my truck is in the shop right now getting a new fuel sender for this very problem . ...............Tiger with an OBD II system is the same
:thumbsup I listed all the fuel-related codes direct from the Triumph manual in the hope I could jog Sas's memory.
TBH, if my fuel gauge didn't work and the only cure was changing the ECU I'd be tempted to ignore it and just use the trip.....
Cheapest on Ebay at the moment is £65 out of a Sprint.
Most seem to run at about £100-120
hello chaps that makes very interesting reading , i have changed the fuel level sender ,no change the original one had the resistance tests fine 13 ohms full & 90 ohms empty and all points in between .seems like a common problem , i have the isolated wiring diagram for the fuel sender circut its at work so i will scan it to morra and post it many thanks for your thoughts and help DB
hello chaps again where is the wiring mod on the forum thanks DB
hello chaps found it thanks DB
I can not remember the code. I would have to pull it again.
Grounds have been checked and cleaned. If a resistor was a problem, it would be constant weather or not the bike was filled. And, it would not fix itself. Same with a faulty ground. While my problem is not very consistent as I can go for a whole trip with no problem, then boom, the next three fillups it happens. But, while mine is consistent, it does not happen enough for me to swap ecm's with my dad to see if the problem tracks.
A bad ground would happen at other times than a fill up.
When a resistor fails, it fails, and the problem would go into a hard failure mode (easy to diagnose)
Loose wiring, bad connectors, etc, would have the problem show up at purely random times. Mine ONLY happens when I fill the bike. And as soon as it clears up, never returns until the next fill up.
It actually sounds like a bug in the software to me. Some random situation that throws the ecm into a loop.
My question is what the ECM is doing with the fuel level data? I figure it is damping the signal a bit so it will not jump the needle every time you hit a bump. It also triggers the low fuel light once a certain OHM rating is reached. But all that could be done within the gauge, so I am still unsure why they ran it through the ECM.
That logic all checks out. Mine is the same, it's only after filling up that it plays up for a few miles. If it is ECU, then I suspect a bug in the software rather than it being faulty. Otherwise, why would so many people have the same problem? I know the ECU is in a vulnerable place on the rear undertray surrounded by holes to let the water and crap in, but it's potted in resin so should be bombproof. And if the ECU was compromised, it would pretty quickly deteriorate until it failed completely.
Perhaps we should ask Mr Triumph????
Quote from: "Sasquatch"But all that could be done within the gauge, so I am still unsure why they ran it through the ECM.
because it's an OBD II Diagnostic and has to go thru the ecm to communicate trouble codes
Hello chaps just another symtom when i turn the ignition on the fuel low light flashes then goes out and syptums are as same confuzzed thanks again DB
Hi DB. The MIL light should come on when you turn the ing on and stay on until you start her up, then it should go out along with all the other lights except the neutral light (assuming you're in neutral).
Is this still sporadic or is it pretty much constant now?
WELL Hello chaps went in to work yesterday and turned on the ING and guess what
ALL WAS WELL !!!!!!!
the fault had cleared and the people cheered
BUT went in to work again today turned on the ING
FAULT WAS BACK I WANT TO SMASH IT when its broke you can fix it will get another ECU to try see what hapens then DB
Hello chaps , i have exchanged th ECU and the fault has now gone many thanks for everyones input it has been a great help thanks DB
Well that puts me back in me box, assuming it probably was the ECU and not disturbing the wiring / sockets etc. that fixed the problem. It does lead on to wondering if a lot of us have ECU faults that we haven't yet diagnosed. I'll have to start playing with my spare ECU and see what happens :roll: