OK Guys, here's todays silly topic. When I ride, my size 12s barely cover the extreme right edge of the pressure surface of the rear brake lever, even with the boot pressed hard up against the crankcase. This makes for a really sloppy connection between boot and brake pedel. The consequence is that I tend to do most of my braking with the front brake, the result of which is that the front tyre is exhibiting signs of "cupping"
The answer would appear to be to remove the lever and crank it out a bit to the right, but I'm loath to do this without seeking the advice of the group. Does anybody else have this problem? Is there an aftermarket "pre-cranked" pedal available?
As usual, all comments are gratefully received.
Have a look at the earlier tiger brake pedal ( Spoke wheels), although the later one may look nicer I reckon the earlier one may help,
Even that one's not very wide and I sometimes find my size 12s slipping off it. I keep meaning to make an extension but the list of jobs extends faster than I get round to them....
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8409 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,8409)
Thanks fellas, much appreciate the help and suggestions. I think I'm going to try and find the earlier pedal, it looks like a real brake pedal. Do any of you guys have any leads to bike breakers either in the UK or USA??
Brian
Quote from: "60stonuptype"Thanks fellas, much appreciate the help and suggestions. I think I'm going to try and find the earlier pedal, it looks like a real brake pedal. Do any of you guys have any leads to bike breakers either in the UK or USA??
Brian
Ive seen those pedals come up regularly on ebay
Late reply and you've probably solved your issue.
However, I had the same problem and solved it by adding a piece of 3mm alloy sheet, bolting it on top of the pedal and extending outwards by about 25mm.
If you look underneath the pedal it has a valley just wide enough for a nut to sit in. So, you get your alloy sheet, shape it how you want, clamp it onto the pedal and drill two holes, centred along the valley, from the underside through both bits. Countersink the alloy plate on the top and bolt it on using nyloc nuts. I used M4 countersink bolts.
Unfortunately I don't have any photos.