If you're using Tuneboy, Tunedit or Tune ECU, please have a look at your stepper motor and long term fuel trim settings and post them up here along with a short comment on whether yours runs good or bad, has the 2-3000 light throttle lumpy running etc. In fact anything you think might be relevant. If you've done some work please list that too and whether it improved things or not. I'm hoping that once we've got a few posts we might be able to spot trends.
Also, try to keep it to just bullet points for simplicity. Thanks :wink:
Edit: Also, please indicate whether the O2 sensor is connected and working.
Triumph Tiger 955i 05.
Gearing= front 19t rear 46t. (5500RPM @ 90MPH)
Michelin pilot road tyres.
Carbon can co. 3 sided can and link pipe.
Standard air filter, airbox baffle removed.
12.5 stone rider, 5'9".
Replaced fuel pressure regulator as rail pressure high and immediate improvement in running from rich and smelly at idle.
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TuneECU v1.7.2 10173 TOR Map.
Injector pulse= .564 .563 .567 Closest that they have ever been.
Throttle (TPS)= 2.2@.61v.
O2 Sensor = Output volt=.940 @ 0.0 related fuel trim, closed loop. Now open loop at idle due to A/f map edit.
Idle= 1000 @ stepper position -20.
Idle Fuel Trim= -3.9.
Speed Control Step = 0 to +1. Very narrow control now, must be good. Now zero
LTFT = 4.1%
Intake Temp = 46C @ 1.98v Motor sensor=.59v (temp high because stationary)
Baro = 1050 Hpa
Engine Load = 23%
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Idle Fuel Trim = -16.4. Edit Now ZERO as map edited in A/F 1.
Stepper Motor = -24. EDIT now -20 as map edited in A/F 1.
Long Term Fuel=4.1 Good for performance. 3.9 for economy.
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Warm Up Map.
-10=0.25 -4=.20 4=.15 14=.05 24=.05 34=.05 44=.05 54=.05 64 to 130= ZERO. This has to be lowered due to TOR map & LTFT running richer.
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Idle Speed Fluctuation =1000 to 1070RPM
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Gas analyser broken so used nose gas analyser.(No deep breaths here please)
Exhaust not sooty or smelly.(Greyish tinge after Roadporn).
Butt dyno =very lively with good and smooth acceleration with low throttle/ low speed very smooth no on/off throttle syndrom and easy ride in traffic. No spluttering 2.5 to 3.5k rpm, no backfire on over-run. No chuffing on idle. Lifting front wheel at will (poor will) on hard acceleration.
Still have to test for MPG over time but looks promising. Reduced warm up map because of wind chill on engine. (temp guage does not go up very much)! May not be the case in warmer climes. Smooth clean idle at last.
PLEASE NOTE This trim worked so far for my bike but each bike could need different trims for different riding styles/weight etc so don't take as gospel this is the ultimate cure. It has certainly cured all the known running probs ie, rough idle, slow speed, and smelly exhaust, on my bike, so cannot take responsibility for what the results are on yours, but the more info the better.
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EDIT:- MPG= 40.1 on a mixed run from crawling along behind cages, motorway, A roads and a 10 mile flat out redline hooligan fun roadporn! :wings
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EDIT:- In MAP EDIT TuneECU go to idle map
-10=1700 -4=1650 4=1600 14=1500 24=1400 34=1300 44=1200 54=1100 64 to 130=1000. This will help smoother warm up. Not as rich due to warmup map.
EDIT:- Clean warm up now, will improve MPG overall
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Go to AF/1 map.
You will see some boxes coloured purple in the 1000-1400 RPM and 0-27% Engine load, change these to read 14.45. this will help set the Idle Trim for smooth idle as it knocks out the CO sensor so not fighting each other for Idle mixture.
Long Term Fuel Trim can be affected mine will run down to 3.9 from 4.2 and will give better economy but beware of going too lean, needs a rolling road to set properly. LTFT will alter the WHOLE map, be careful.
Idle Fuel Trim will have different settings but set to your own bike so exhaust is not smelly rich and idle smooth (takes a bit of time this bit).
LTFT, IACV and IFT are INDIVIDUAL to each bike and may not correspond to my settings.
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PLEASE NOTE THESE SETTINGS WILL CHANGE AS I EVOLVE THE SETTINGS.
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Just to be fair I have loaded latest TOR map 10173 and made settings with that map and is accessible to all.
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REVISED 09/04/11 IN BLUE PENDING ROADPORN.
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EDIT:- A/F1 Map= At 5 to 6000 RPM @ 41 to 58 Engine load now reads 14.5. Leaned off for better MPG @ 90MPH!! Was 29MPG@90MPH.
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EDIT:- A/F 2 Map. Lowest value now 12.50. 1300 from 5000 to 10000RPM, also to lean off for fast cruise.
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IDLE -10=1500 -4=1450 4=1400 14=1350 24=1300 34=1200 44=1100 54-130=1050.
WARM-UP -10to14=0.05 24to130=ZERO
IFT=3.1 IACV=-14 LTFT=4.1
UPDATED 19 APRIL 2011
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UPDATE 05 MAY 2011
IDLE -10=1450 -4=1450 4=1425 14=1375 24=1325 34=1225 44=1100 54-130=1050
WARM-UP
-10=0.05 -4=0.05 14-130=0
IFT=-1.6
STEPPER=-25
LTFT=4.0
A/F1 MAP=1000-1400RPM & 0-27% LOAD=14.40
IDLE FLUCTUATION=1040-1090RPM
RESULT.Huge amounts of mid range grunt up to redline and progressive throttle.Warm-up is a slight bit lumpy but not for long, not even noticable if ridden straight away. Pick up from stop very quick and roll on from 60mph to 130 in top seems alot quicker than before. (butt dyno only).AT LAST 43.6 MPG (uk) on very mixed riding including roadporn and motorway. (even got a speeding ticket DOH).
08th June 11
Been playing again and got some interesting figures back.
For those who like the 1200rpm idle I thought I would have a play.
Warm up map =-10=1450 -4=1425 4=1400 14=1375 24=1300 34 to 130=120.
I had it all worked out on this day, laptop in the topbox all wired up, gastester strapped to the bars and off up the road I went. Before it all went pear shaped I managed these settings.
Idle Fuel Trim=26.6
LTFT =4.3
Stepper=-20
These settings changed alot from my last ones as I was doing it live and making adjustments on the ride. Managed 46.8 mpg (uk) and performance was good all through range as before. Mixture seemed consistent through all throttle and speed positions.
UNTILL the strap holding the gastester broke sending said instrument crashing into a million pieces on the road, at about 90mph!!!!
Oh well good while it lasted....The lengths I go to. :ImaPoser
UPDATE AUG 25-11
Change to clean up warm-up map
-10 to 44 = .50 54 = .25 64 = .10 74 = .05
IDLE = -10 to 44 = 1550 54 = 1400 64 = 1300 74 to 130 = 1200
Comprehensive writeup Nige, thanks!!! :D
THAT is the sort of information I need.
Bravo!!!
What 'baffle' did you remove from airbox? I'm picking up a standard filter from my dealer tomorrow to replace my K&N and I'd like to give this a whirl.
Did you simply cut-out the plate where the 2-holes are between the air-filter and the box inlet?
Yes spot on.
Some of these are metal ie,855 but my 955 was plastic. Just went round with a soldering iron slowly, through the air filter hole till the plate was weak enough to be hauled out. (Don't undo the screws on the outside of the box or the captive nuts will just spin). This leaves the mounting edge which just pulls out. Needless to say all plastic swarf MUST be removed and the inside of the box spotless. I don't know what the benefits to removing the plate are perhaps it is an intake noise baffle. I noticed also there is only 1 intake tube rather than 2 on the 855 and the trumpets are shorter on the 955. The only downfall I can see is the airbox temp sender is more exposed with the shorter intake trumpet.
Good luck and hope the data helps to eliminate some of the injection system downfalls. I am still experimenting so data can change.
The airbox mod has been datailed on another thread with pictures.
Had a PM from Hassan to say your settings had cured his black smoke issue, but still a bit rich. He's on the right track..... :wink:
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Had a PM from Hassan to say your settings had cured his black smoke issue, but still a bit rich. He's on the right track..... :wink:
Great news, happy that it has worked.
Keep an eye on the settings as they will change as I learn more and change the tune for the better.
Am I being dim, but how is LTFT adusted or even reset? The element for it is greyed out when I run TuneECU up.
If you are running the latest TuneECU it did on mine too. Try earlier version if not PM your email and will try to send you older version
Need some serious help and education.
My bike is running sickenly rich. Checked the fuel pressure and it is sitting pretty at 43-45 psi.
Here are my trim settings, and I can not seem to get the fueling to lean out. My questions are in () following the settings.
2001 Tiger, latest tune for vin number installed. Race can, modded air box.
Version 1.8.7
Injector Pulse: 1.054 1.071 1.042
Coil: 1.84 1.88 1.84
Throttle: 2.0 .61V (is this not supposed to read 0 after resetting TPS?)
O2 Sensor: .785 to .850 -19.2 (what is the -19.2 number)
Idle: 1200 -10 (what is the -10??)
3.1% 41 (what are these??)
Long Term 3.4% (which way does the number have to go for leaner?)
Temp 68C 1.04 .49
Baro: 930 hPa
Engine Load 17%
Under the tests page, here is the only two things I can change, which have NO affect on the way the bike is running. Am I supposed to do something after I make a change? Can I make a change while the bike is running? What is the proper procedure?
Idle fuel trim: 3.1
Adjust speed control -10
The idle fuel trim, what does this actually do, and if I raise the number what is supposed to happen?
Same for the Adjust speed control. Nothing seems to make any change. My bike is idling, and I make a change, nothing seems to react.
Next thing. I was playing with one of the maps, I changed the name to 10122 and saved it. When I downloaded it to the ECM, it changed the name back to 10121. WTF??? Am I just not understanding something? I have read through all the paperwork and manual for the software and it is about as clear as mud.
Sorry for this, but my bike is sick and really needs some help.
Quote from: "metalguru"If you are running the latest TuneECU it did on mine too. Try earlier version if not PM your email and will try to send you older version
Hmm, I have a collection of earlier versions. Out for a ride this morning, will look later.
OK Yes I can see where things have gone very wrong.
Firstly we need to see if the present TuneECU is displaying Long Term Fuel Trim, if it is not then we need to send you the earlier version which will display this adjustment as quite important.
Secondly by the look of the readings your bike is running very LEAN.
To cure this you need to load in TOR map (the Tiumph one not the modded) for your vin and set the LTFT to at least 4.2 to 4.5 as a starting point and trim from there. All the other readings are correct for a very lean set up, (suprised it ran at all). TPS reading is fine as ECU will trim to this after starting. When you reset it probably went down to about 0 to .2.
Once you get to this stage you should have a good starting point to fine tune. Please read again and again untill digested fully the settings I posted and it is not wise to change anything in the main maps untill fully understanding as changing one map can effect another.
The Idle Fuel Trim will now come into play and is a very fine adjustment (a bit like pilot screws, as LTFT is main jet on carbs) and can be adjusted for smoother idle but for now leave it at ZERO.
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) set about -12 for a start and blip throttle, if revs come down to idle slowly then increase this number by one and blip again untill revs drop clean to idle, increasing in 1 at a time. If revs drop straight to idle or below very quickly and return up then decrease number, this controls the position of the valve to allow correct intake of air for idle.
I am still quite new to this but have spent days reading untill I feel I am competant in making adjustments as all the maps are tied into eachother to produce the eventual running. When you have reached a point that the bike is running right on the basic map and is not black smoking or lean then the maps can be doctored for your particular needs.
Thanks for the PM and let me know if I can help. The TuneECU readings are paramount for diagnosing the running and easier being remote than trying to set up a carbed bike by email!!
Quote from: "metalguru"OK Yes I can see where things have gone very wrong.
Firstly we need to see if the present TuneECU is displaying Long Term Fuel Trim, if it is not then we need to send you the earlier version which will display this adjustment as quite important.
I need an earlier version, this one does not let me change it.
QuoteSecondly by the look of the readings your bike is running very LEAN.
To cure this you need to load in TOR map (the Tiumph one not the modded) for your vin and set the LTFT to at least 4.2 to 4.5 as a starting point and trim from there. All the other readings are correct for a very lean set up, (suprised it ran at all). TPS reading is fine as ECU will trim to this after starting. When you reset it probably went down to about 0 to .2.
Here is where I am missing something. With O2 sensor readings of .785 v and higher, that is a RICH mixture in the exhaust, not lean. My nose confirms that it is running very rich.
QuoteOnce you get to this stage you should have a good starting point to fine tune. Please read again and again untill digested fully the settings I posted and it is not wise to change anything in the main maps untill fully understanding as changing one map can effect another.
The Idle Fuel Trim will now come into play and is a very fine adjustment (a bit like pilot screws, as LTFT is main jet on carbs) and can be adjusted for smoother idle but for now leave it at ZERO.
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) set about -12 for a start and blip throttle, if revs come down to idle slowly then increase this number by one and blip again untill revs drop clean to idle, increasing in 1 at a time. If revs drop straight to idle or below very quickly and return up then decrease number, this controls the position of the valve to allow correct intake of air for idle.
Good bit of info right there, thanks.
I am going to PM you my email address for an older version of TuneECU in case I can not find one on line.
Can someone email me an older version of TuneECU that does not have the LTFT and stepper motor lines grayed out????
jobesfzr (at) yahoo.com
Thanks a bunch
Nige sent me 1.7.2, I will give it a shot in just a little bit.
Quote from: "Sasquatch"Can someone email me an older version of TuneECU that does not have the LTFT and stepper motor lines grayed out????
jobesfzr (at) yahoo.com
Thanks a bunch
email sent
Lowering the CO setting from 11,7 to -15,... solved the black smokey idling of my bike.
DOH
Sometimes Sas I wish my brain would work too many numbers today.....Yes indeed it is running very RICH, about twice as rich as it should be.
Hope the PM and early version helped. Have passed concern on the greying out of components to the authors. They are working on a bugfix.
What PM?What Version???
Ow,anyway...
I'm tryin' to lower consumption more...
Don't want any smoke in the back of my bike.
Even what color it is...it's whitey right now...
Thanks for the PM's, emails and earlier version. I uploaded a slightly tweaked version of the TOR tune. My bike does not like to idle below 1200, so I left it there. The stepper motor is at -16 and it seemed happiest there. LTFT is at 4.0 for now. Ran and got fuel and it was a bit too cold for a longer ride. Besides, I had "honey-do's" to get done.
I will update the forum when I get a chance to really take her for a ride.
I am still concerned why she is running so rich with the factory TOR tune.
Can this adjustment be made while the bike is running?
Once you're done fiddling with LTFT and Idle Stepper, do you save the map, and re-download to the ECU? Or will this fiddling correct values in the ECU in real-time so that you simply have to do a 12-minute reset/TPS reset after the modifications?
It should save the adjustments made when you shut the PC down as the windows describe, so in theory there is no need for the 12min tune as you have acheived settings to your default by the alterations you have made, therefore the ecu will use these as base settings.
Yes do the adjustments with the bike running and preferably a gas analyser up its pipe or use the sniff analyser (no heavy breathing here please) to acertain rich or lean + stable idle.
Quote from: "metalguru"It should save the adjustments made when you shut the PC down as the windows describe, so in theory there is no need for the 12min tune as you have acheived settings to your default by the alterations you have made, therefore the ecu will use these as base settings.
I thought I noticed a 'Commit trims' item in one of the menus...
Commit trims is used for editing tables when moving whole blocks of data betwen maps. This will install the edit into the maps and return the trim values in the 'F' & 'I' trim tables to zero.
Here are mine. Nothing's been altered (by me) since the dealer tune download, except for the TPS reset when I changed it. As you may have seen in other posts, the bike has a problem.
Bike was cold, ignition on, not running, first thing this morning.
* Throttle 0.0 0.63V
* O2 sensor 4.80V 0.4
* Idle 000 7 0.0% 129
* LTFT 4.2%
* Temp 15c 3.18V 3.25V
* Baro 1006 hPa
* Batt 13.1V
* Idle fuel trim (CO) 0.0
* Adjust speed control 7
VIN reported as lost! ECU serial FFFFFFFFFF
- These used to be present...
Last time I ran the bike up connected to TuneECU, the O2 voltage headed down to under 0.1V and stayed there. Last week sometime, it was behaving properly, switching low and hi every second or so. There are hard white deposits on the 'blast' face of the O2 sensor 'cage'. Silica? I've ordered a NTK universal 4-wire sensor to give that a try.
Couple of issues here,
Did you solve the battery voltage or change the battery and what is the charge voltage running?
The TPS reading seems a tad high as Triumph give the voltage limits as (from memory) .58? to .66V. Still within limits though. 78% on full throttle?
Just as a try out reload an old version of TuneEcu into another folder on PC and try that for giving correct info ie fffffff's.
Measure voltage on the output of ecu relay to see if ecu is getting correct voltage from this relay.
Is air filter clean?
CO sensor appears OK.
Try after all these to reload map for your vin and exhaust.
Quote from: "metalguru"Couple of issues here,
Did you solve the battery voltage or change the battery and what is the charge voltage running?
New battery last week.
Current Setup:
2001 Tiger 955i Sagem ECU
Michelin Pilot Roads
Gearing stock front, 45 rear
KnN Air Filter
Remus Revolution exhaust (no baffle)
Current Settings:
Map: 10173Map.hex modded by BixxerBob
O2 Sensor: Closed.
IFT: -3.4
ICAV: -8
LTFT: 3.7
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Standing:
IFT seemed to have no huge affect one way or the other... but this was the most 'crisp' the engine sounded.
The idle is now smooth as well. No more "diesel tractor" sound.
No popping up or down the rev line on sitting in Neutral.
Idle wanders from 1180-1250, nothing huge.
NEW STUFF IN BLUE
Now that I've got the trims sorted out, the bike runs like a DREAM. Finally got the soot out of the exhaust, not much popping unless really beating on it... redline in 1st 2nd gear kinda beating on it.
Power is great, smooth acceleration.
SIDE NOT:
I rode it this time with an OPEN FACE helmet, so that I could drown out the noise the bike made and really FEEL how the bike runs.
No studdering, pulls hard in 6th out of 40mph corners, pulls great in 2nd, 3rd and 4th from 2500-3000rpm, not a lot of studdering from under 2500rpm now.
I think leaning it out makes the bike run MUCH MUCH better... it's at the point where it's not popping like crazy and has good power... so I think the balance has been reached.
What's LTFT?
Quote from: "Hassan"What's LTFT?
Long Term Fuel Trim.
I'm slightly confused about maps. I've seen several people say they've loaded the latest 10173 map but they have bikes that I assume, given their age, are pre-VIN #206547. Danny955i has a 2001 Tiger and has loaded 10173. My Tiger's a 2003 bike (well, I always believed it to be) but has VIN #167127 and map 10121 (TOR).
What's the score?
Are we getting close now?
Could be your bike was in store for a while at stealers..etc.
So long as you have the 2 connectors on the ecu, give the later map a try,
BUT save your map first.
Quote from: "metalguru"Are we getting close now?
Could be your bike was in store for a while at stealers..etc.
So long as you have the 2 connectors on the ecu, give the later map a try,
BUT save your map first.
I doubt it was in store for long. The supplying dealer was Carl Rosner.
Alloy wheeled bikes started at VIN #198875. Mine has wire. From what I read, all wire-wheel 955i Tigers are either tune 10120 or 10121. What change happened at VIN #206547?
I have just compared the two maps and the only alterations visible between 10173 (latest tune) & 10121 (yours) are to 'F' and A/F 1 tables.
Quote from: "Danny955i"Current Setup:
The bike does not smell rich on idle, and it no longer pops when coming down from high-revs at stand-still, so I made the LTFT richer to eliminate the popping and -3 was perfect on the 'blip test'... to get the RPM to drop straight to 1200 flat.
The best part... ABSOLUTELY NO POPPING ON DECELERATION. WHAT-SO-EVER... a little if you're in 1st from about 3000-2500 rpm... but just a gurgle... not a full on "pop pop blam poof pop" that used to happen.
Danny, what 'non-stock' settings are you using for the af/1 tables from 2000 to 3000 ?
My readings last time I looked (about a year ago) were:
Adaptive Stepper: -4
Idle Fuel Trim: 0
LTFT: 4.24
ISC Steps: 41
O2 Volts: .134
These readings (warm engine, idling) are from Tuneboy and look quite different from the ones showing from other people - are these from Tuneecu?
I'm running my own map which I adapted from Wayne Macdonald's version so that the A/F is only 14.5 at idle (up to 1400 rpm and no load (well actually 24 as it doesn't go any lower). Lovely map with no hesitation, deviation or repetition from 2,000 rpm all the way up (well as far as 8,000 which is as far as I usually take it).
Danny, which of the two maps I sent you are you using? The one dated March (stock latest Triumph tune) or the one dated Feb (one of my lightly modified tunes).
Quote from: "ChazzyB"Am I being dim, but how is LTFT adusted or even reset? The element for it is greyed out when I run TuneECU up.
Hi,
it's a bug, will be fixed in the next release.
BR, Tom
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Danny, which of the two maps I sent you are you using? The one dated March (stock latest Triumph tune) or the one dated Feb (one of my lightly modified tunes).
MAR Triumph Tune, is the one I'm using....
Also.. fixed the cylinder two issue... stupid blue clips like to come undone from the coils. Zip tied them all one... Runs great now! Haha.
OH, updated the info above too... Finally got 40mpg!!
Quote from: "oradbaforpsoft"Danny, what 'non-stock' settings are you using for the af/1 tables from 2000 to 3000 ?
I'm using the map As-Is... no changes to the 10173Map.hex tables what-so ever, just the LTFT/IFT/IACV trims.
Bike:
2001 955i
TOR Exhaust
K&N Filter
Removed baffle
NGK Platinum plugs
Lambda sensor simulation plug
New TPS
Starting point:
Map 10121
LTFT 5.3%
IACV -5
IFT 0
Now:
Map 10173
LTFT 4.8%
IACV -8
IFT 0
I haven't changed LTFT yet, I just set it at 4.8 as a starting point.
It's already like a new bike !!!
Very little hesitation at low r/m.
It pulls in 4th gear up a steep hill from 1000r/m without a problem.
The biggest issue before was rough running at constant speed around 2-2500r/m
There's still some rough running but much less.
There where some hesitations also at higher r/m but now that's OK.
Idle smoothness needs some tweaking though.
I'm really pleased with the result so far considering all things I tried to get it running OK last year.
Plugs, O2 eliminator, numerous 12 min cycles, removed baffle, checked the coils,
new gaskets around the airbox and finally new TPS that solved the most of the problems
but it wasn't nearly as smooth as now.
Quote from: "Danny955i"Quote from: "oradbaforpsoft"Danny, what 'non-stock' settings are you using for the af/1 tables from 2000 to 3000 ?
I'm using the map As-Is... no changes to the 10173Map.hex tables what-so ever, just the LTFT/IFT/IACV trims.
Danny - thanks. Just to confirm:
The af/1 tables are unchanged from the 10173 Map. Are they the same as Bixer Bob's MAR tune as well?
I still have minor popping on decel dropping from 3000 to about 2600 rpms.
That is EXACTLY where I have a bit of minor popping or 'gurgle' in my bike as well... so we're running the identical setup. Haha...
Good to know it's universal.
I'm thinking of making the A/F table richer between 2000-3000 rpm and 50% load to 100% load.
Near as I can tell, engine braking has got to be high load...
It's either that, or slightly increase the LTFT 1 to 2 more values, and then simply increase the AF ratios that are at 14.5 to about 14.7.
I know they say not to do that... but if the LTFT affects all maps, and you're trimming it UP 4 points, isn't anything at 14.5 really 10.5???
I'm not sure exactly... is it a %, or a value?
Woa Danny!
first, overrun is NOT high load! Think about it, if you were at the settings you suggest it would be pulling your arms off not slowing down. Overrun is zero throttle position therefore you need work on the throttle closed line.
next, the popping is caused by weak mix not rich, so you need to decrease the af values, not raise them. While you are in there you can chanve any values in the 14.5 - 14.7 range to 14.4 that will stop the o2 se.sor messing up your lovely new settings.
the reason for popping is a weak mix doesen't burn properly and allows unburnt fuel into the exhaust. not logical I know, but thats how it is.
Idle stepper adjustment: TuneECU 1.8.9 now allows the idle stepper to be adjusted again, but how do you commit the new setting to the ECU? With the engine running, I adjusted mine down from the initial value of 5 to 2. This stopped the slightly high idle held for second after after blipping the throttle, so it just went straight back down to idle. It also seemed to stop of a lot of the popping on the overrun too. However, whenever I restart the bike and run TuneECU, the setting's 7!
Any ideas?
Ok guys,
1999 885i
Stock 9891 map (just lovered Warmup table a little)
K&N filter
Stock exhoust
IFT: -27,3
Stepper Position:6
LTFT: Can't adjusted
No smoke,but still smelly rich and pops while deceleration.
You are lucky Chazzy I havn't got the latest one to work yet.
The value you put into the stepper, IACV, whatever you would like to call it should stay the same, when shutting down TuneECU it should come up with the save settings window.
Are you looking at the stepper position on idle control and voltage? This is controlled by the ecu when CO sensor is awake. To knock the CO sensor out at idle check out method in my notes, it makes idle much easier to tune smooth.
Yeah,I don't remember the voltage but the other number (stepper position ) was 45
I've checked out the schematics in the official parts locator and compared with my bike,there is no O2 sensor.
Really,there is not.
Maybe there is after model 2000.(885i Mark II)
Quote from: "metalguru"...when shutting down TuneECU it should come up with the save settings window.
I've not see this. I assume the bike's still powered up and connected when doing this?
Yes it is mate
Quote from: "metalguru"Yes it is mate
I rather thought it would be. ;-)
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Woa Danny!
first, overrun is NOT high load! Think about it, if you were at the settings you suggest it would be pulling your arms off not slowing down. Overrun is zero throttle position therefore you need work on the throttle closed line.
next, the popping is caused by weak mix not rich, so you need to decrease the af values, not raise them. While you are in there you can chanve any values in the 14.5 - 14.7 range to 14.4 that will stop the o2 se.sor messing up your lovely new settings.
the reason for popping is a weak mix doesen't burn properly and allows unburnt fuel into the exhaust. not logical I know, but thats how it is.
See.. this is why I shouldn't post at 1am... like I am doing now. Hahaha.
I think that's what I'm going to have to do.... 14.4 and be done with it.
Will running the O2 sensor 'off' hurt fuel economy?
IFT: -27,3
Stepper:9
Exhoust poppin' around 2500 rpm while deceleration...
???
:wink:
Quote from: See.. this is why I shouldn't post at 1am... like I am doing now. Hahaha.
I think that's what I'm going to have to do.... 14.4 and be done with it.
Will running the O2 sensor 'off' hurt fuel economy?[/quoteThat is the bit I am investigating at the moment, as still evolving my settings. Sadly no rolling road, so garage set up and butt dyno tuning here, much to the distress of my neighbours!! Slowly changing the TOR maps so will update soon. The main one to alter is the warm-up map as this is now too rich with the TOR map. This does the MPG a world of good.
(Got a gas tester coming soon,thanks fleabay).
Just updated my original post on page 2 with some... PICTURES of the maps...
So you guys can see exactly what I see...
Here I had the idle set at 1225.... but it wanders between 1220 and 1350.
Danny looking at the readout the idle target is set to 1290.
Is the throttle cable got enough slack as it is showing 3 which seems a bit high?
Idle step position is 27 (the one next to -4.7%)this needs to be as close to or even zero as showing ecu compensation for idle, take a look at my settings for A/F1&2 maps, they will sort it out.
Try a lower idle speed 1000 to 1150 as easier to tune smooth and knock out the CO as my settings, may have to trim stepper to about -8 to -16.
Have a look at battery voltage/charging as low, this will cause many a headache!
Will have some more new settings soon as been playing again, just have to roadporn it a bit more and refine a few bits.
UPDATED 19 APRIL 2011. Details in RED on page 1.
Current Setup:
1000-1400 RPM, 0-27% load = 14.45 A/F on A/F 1 map. (mine were green, not purple)
Warm Up: -10 to 14, .05; 24-130, 0.00.
Idle Speed: Same as MetalGuru (1500 @ -10, stepping down to 1050 @ 54-130)
Lowest value on A/F 2 map is now 12.5 from 1300-10,000 rpm.
Going to flash this into the ECU tomorrow and re-fiddle my IFT/IACV/LTFT settings.
UPDATE ON PAGE 1 IN GREEN.
No update on tune or pics... but...
I re-flashed, 12 min reset... reset TPS... still getting a LOT of popping on decel.
But... I have a new problem...
Post here: http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,69971#69971
If you want a laugh UPDATE on page 1. :D
UPDATE on page 2 in GREEN
What's it ride like Danny? And what's your fuel consumption like?
I notice your trims are quite a bit different to mine; your LTFT is quite high, 4.15 - 4.18 is more usual, which could explain this. Raising the LTFT is a bit like putting bigger main jets into a carb.
But if it goes ok, leave well alone :lol:
LTFT on mine has gone to 4.3 and before the gastester commited suicide managed to get the IFT to +23. Although the IFT seems high it is a very fine adjustment from -99 to +99 bit like a 1/4 turn on the pilot screw. The higher IFT cured a flat area on very small throttle in traffic (slight surging) and gastester showed this as a weak area which IFT coped with. These settings vary greatly between bikes as I had another 955 in the other day and it would not run as well as mine on my settings but with a small adjustment it ran very well. Makes me wonder if the hard codings are different as the maps at certain production runs! Would be nice to get into them!! Riding normally I am now getting 45mpg(uk) and roadporn at redline all the way is 32mpg(uk) which looks about right. The tail pipe (carbon can co) has a slight sooty deposit after roadporn for 95 miles, (that was fun).
By the way if anyone is using TuneECU there is no need for the 12min reset as all trims are set when using tuneECU. Only the TPS reset needs a short idle time (about 2mins) to reset the ecu.
Good tip regarding the 12 min tune. I can't remembert for sure, but I think the early instructions called for it, (I must have read it somewhere or I wouldn't be doing it as it's not reqd for Tunedit). I see it's now only for KTMs. Also I can't remember, did I send you one of my tunes or are you on a stocker?
My latest slightly modded 10173 is running well, with no major issues, and good economy even when thrashed. Trims set static with a CO meter.
Idle is a bit off beat, like an out-of-tune guitar string.
Rough running from 2-3k.
Loud/rhaspy exhaust.
Cut my fuel consumption down to about 30mpg (us) which is bad considering I had it at about 40mpg last I ran it.
Lots (and lots) of soot out the back end. SOO.. it's SUPER rich.
I will say... it goes nice, but only under full acceleration.
I need to trim the LTFT back a LOT, probably to 4.10, or even 3.9 depending.
The ICAV is at -9 and that's the ONLY spot on the adjustment that it won't dive completely to 500rpm on blip, or take a year to come back down.
The bike won't even stay running after a blip test if I try anything lower than -20.
I can't really figure out what IFT does.... I've adjusted from -10 to +10 and there seems to be no credible difference in the way it idles/runs... no real difference in exhaust smell either.
Maybe I should try upping the IFT to about 20, then adjusting the ICAV, and then worry about the LTFT.
I don't know... it seems that no matter what I try, if I do the ICAV first, the other trims mess with it once I change them.
Note... New vacuum hoses EVERYWHERE, ICAV works fine, and it has a new TPS.
So... ?
Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Good tip regarding the 12 min tune. I can't remembert for sure, but I think the early instructions called for it, (I must have read it somewhere or I wouldn't be doing it as it's not reqd for Tunedit). I see it's now only for KTMs. Also I can't remember, did I send you one of my tunes or are you on a stocker?
My latest slightly modded 10173 is running well, with no major issues, and good economy even when thrashed. Trims set static with a CO meter.
Using a modded 10173 map modded myself for the riding and economy I do. Have economy for normal everday stuff but using +6000rpm and +50% throttle it opens the floodgates and makes it roadporn for chasing Sport bikes!!!
Quote from: "Danny955i"Idle is a bit off beat, like an out-of-tune guitar string.
Rough running from 2-3k.
Loud/rhaspy exhaust.
Cut my fuel consumption down to about 30mpg (us) which is bad considering I had it at about 40mpg last I ran it.
Lots (and lots) of soot out the back end. SOO.. it's SUPER rich.
I will say... it goes nice, but only under full acceleration.
I need to trim the LTFT back a LOT, probably to 4.10, or even 3.9 depending.
The ICAV is at -9 and that's the ONLY spot on the adjustment that it won't dive completely to 500rpm on blip, or take a year to come back down.
The bike won't even stay running after a blip test if I try anything lower than -20.
I can't really figure out what IFT does.... I've adjusted from -10 to +10 and there seems to be no credible difference in the way it idles/runs... no real difference in exhaust smell either.
Maybe I should try upping the IFT to about 20, then adjusting the ICAV, and then worry about the LTFT.
I don't know... it seems that no matter what I try, if I do the ICAV first, the other trims mess with it once I change them.
Note... New vacuum hoses EVERYWHERE, ICAV works fine, and it has a new TPS.
So... ?
Dan you need to set the LTFT first. Set IFT to zero and then set LTFT to the LEANEST it will run before it starts surging at idle and standstill.Then up .2 to .6 from surge point. This is like your main jet adjustment in old money.Then set IACV so it drops to idle cleanly but not too quick as it will have on-off throttle syndrome in traffic. Try and do this before airbox temp gets too high as it will alter mixture. IFT is a very fine adjustment and really should be carried out with a gas tester, perhaps a local garage will let you borrow their emmisions tester if you take bike and lap top too. It is a pain needing lots of patience as sonn as you change anything on the mappings etc it changes the settings to a degree, ie make the map richer it makes the LTFT even richer, and vice-versa. Changing the IACV pipes will also make it rich as there are no airleaks now so retrimming required.
my LTFT is 4.6 and she does 50+ mpg, I'll post up the rest of my readings a bit later.
NKL, what is your bike setup with? Pipe/KnN or Stock?
Updates in BLUE on page 2.
2006 Model, 10173 map, K&N, Remus Evolution with baffle in, 19t F sprocket, iridium plugs
Injector pulse= 1.833, 1.760, 1.821
TPS=4.1@0.53v
o2 sensor = 0.9 @ -19.2 to -1.2
Idle fuel trim= -8 0.0% 23
speed control step= -8
LTFT=4.6%
Baro= 1006Hpa
Engine load=28%
Ign Coil= 1.471, 1.471, 1.471
Idle= 1120 ish
Smells rich at idle but runs great, no messing about at part throttle at any revs, pulls from 1000rpm in top gear as smooth as silk, its like an electric motor.
But according to Tune ECU mine has the wrong tune for my chassis no.
Yeah, but we all do that... You have almost the identical setup to my bike... but I take the baffle out of the Remus.
Are you running straight TOR tune, or have you modified it at all??
An interesting point is coming up with these postings.
The TPS value is not consistant as most read outs are coming back with differing values, hence this could be a contributing factor as to why a modded map works well in one bike and not the other.
If only we could gain access to the locked down codes in the ecu we could really have some fun!
Its standard as put in by the dealer. After my holiday I am going to try the correct map for my chassis no.
HOLD ON THERE....
If it aint broke don't fix it.
Probably your rich smell at tickover is caused by LTFT slightly high. Take it down .1 at a time and try it. Wouldn't go down more than 4.2 though.
Really?! I have mine down to 3.7?! And it runs nearly perfect!
Also... it goes 137mph topped out now... Holy crap does it pull in 6th!!!
For those guys interested, I found this excellent Triumph wiki on the Lambda (o2) probe, Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) and much much more... While in French, Google Chrome/Translate can be most helpful for those Anglophones amongst us!
Here is the link:
http://www.triumphall.com/wiki/index.ph ... glage_955i (http://www.triumphall.com/wiki/index.php?title=Reglage_955i)
Enjoy!
>Deano
2001 955i. Standard can, baffle removed, 53,000 miles. O2 sensor connected, standard gearing. 55mpg average.
This is my first first play with the ECU.
I have been running the original 10120Map.hex ever since I bought it new.
Already I can hold 2,000 rpm and 2,500 rpm without it wandering all over the place.
I'll see what it's like to ride on my daily 55 miles commute tomorrow.
The bug has bitten.
Well done keep us posted. :D
2 days of riding with 10121Map.hex and here are my impressions.
The bad surging of the previous tune 10120Map.hex have been replaced with milder, but still annoying, surging at the usual idle up to 4,000rpm.
Other than that nothing else has really changed.
Going to try another tune soon, but which one ?? :lol:
Quote from: "Patman1200"Going to try another tune soon, but which one ?? :lol:
You're welcome to try my modified one which runs in open loop everywhere except idle, and gives no surging at all. Based on one from Wayne Macdonald.
Heres mine finally, Im running the Modified Tor Tune by SA_Rider, Ive not touched it, BMC Filter with Airbox mod, goes very well, MPG rarely drops below low 40's even ragging the arse of it, low speed a bit choppy but think im used to it now, I do lots of town riding, low speed filtering and dont find it a problem.
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/cockneytaff/Publication1.jpg)
I gota ask !!
1/ How do ya get these dashboard pics ? :? :icon_scratch
2/ Do you have to remove one tune before loadin another ?
am i missin an instruction sheet somewhere ?
:?
KK
have a look in here KK and all will be explained and it won't be long before the bug bites!
http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html (http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html)
Quote from: "KuzzinKenny"I gota ask !!
1/ How do ya get these dashboard pics ? :? :icon_scratch
2/ Do you have to remove one tune before loadin another ?
am i missin an instruction sheet somewhere ?
:?
KK
1/ Alt + Prnt Screen buttons, then paste into any programme to save as a jpeg or whatever.
2/ Loading a tune into Tune ECU is different to uploading to the bike, so you can load a tune, play around with settings then save etc, but yes, only 1 at a time.
Quote from: "metalguru"have a look in here KK and all will be explained and it won't be long before the bug bites!
http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html (http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html)
Cheers metalguru !! its now a 9 page printed, in me hand, step by step guide :D
but it doesn't say anywhere about removin or deletin the old tune :? as
Timbox2 said ( only 1 at a time ) :?
i had to google, Alt + Prnt Screen buttons, to find out wat that was all about :lol:
so i now no how to get dashboard pics :thumbsup
i now have the instructions :thumbsup
but still :? about the tune thats in the ECU !! so what do i do with it ?
KK
ps i still think i'll end up with an expensive paper weight :shock:
Connect up as per instructions and when tuneECU appears, turn on keyswitch and kill button after removing headlamp fuses or turn them off.
On the top line of tuneEcu find 'read'. let it read the file in the ecu, that will tell you what tune you have, refer to your printed instuctions which will show you what tune you have by reading the numbers in the top left corner, eg 10172. SAVE this file in the tune folder that pops up. once it is saved then you can play. This is a backup in case it all goes belly up, you can reload your original tune. Make a note of the Idle fuel trim (IFT), Long term Fuel Trim (LTFT), idle speed and IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) reading to refer back to when you are playing.
Don't worry I am totally confused about how to post pictures on here.
Hey metalguru !! The main thing i want to do is load the TOR tune !! thats why i'm :? about what to do with the tune thats in the ECU at the mo :?
KK
ps this should help with the picky's :wink:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... sc&start=0 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,3499&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0)
save the tune in the ecu, then when you load your new tune in it will overwrite what ever was in there, and then playtime.....
Quote from: "metalguru"save the tune in the ecu, then when you load your new tune in it will overwrite what ever was in there, and then playtime.....
:thumbsup
KK
Still :? :? :? :?
I managed to get everything runnin and when i go to load the TOR tune it says its for up to 206546 Vin ?????? i downloaded 10173map.hex from TuneECU site for Tiger 955i from VIN # 206547 ?????
WTF !!
:icon_scratch
KK
ps me Tigger is 210255
pps wat a waste O a day fafin aboot with this !! original tune reloaded !!
might still get out for a run !!
Steep learning curve for me aswell, they seem to change when the mag wheels came out??????? Mine is the same late tune. can send you map I have been playing with if you PM your email addy. It gives good mpg when cruise but opens the taps for roadporn sports bike chasing! :occasion14
Quote from: "metalguru"Steep learning curve for me aswell, they seem to change when the mag wheels came out??????? Mine is the same late tune. can send you map I have been playing with if you PM your email addy. It gives good mpg when cruise but opens the taps for roadporn sports bike chasing! :occasion14
Cheers for the offer but i think i'll leave the thing as is !!
did get out for a 100Ml run around the hills !!
KK
:icon_scratch My Tigger !!
Vin 210255 Map 10120 !! TuneECU says this Map is for up to Vin 206546 but this is the Map that came with the bike ? i bought it new !! so i downloaded Map 10121 Tors from TuneECU site and loaded it to my ECU !! :?
not tried it on a run yet !!
It should be ok !! :? right !!
KK
This has come up quite a bit on here, no great problem.
You may have to tweak the IACV, LTFT, to get it to run real smooth but you will notice the difference. Really helpful is to read the rest of this thread and see the settings others have found works for them as each bike seems to be individual with the trim settings. Set your warm up mixture on map edit to zero as with the richer map it will run too rich at warm up. Unless you have access to a rolling road then it is butt dyno to get it somewhere near right, this is where it takes alot of patience and trial and error and a week or so fiddling. The more fiddling you do the more confident you become and it is easy to isolate the adjustment that neweds doing, bit like taking the tank off for the first time.
OK !! i did the readin and decided to load the 10173map as NKL has the same model of Tigger and has put his ECU settings up, it gives me somethin to go by, i figured if its a rich fuel settin its not as bad as havin a lean settin, right !!
went for a ride tonight but got me head messed up by a FEMALE goin through a red light, i had only just left me house and done 100yds :twisted:
did follow her for about 6Ml, that took the stupid little smile off her face, the one they do when they've made a mistake and try and larf it off !! NOT when you've almost totaled ME !!
anyway, had a run around the Pentland hills and put Tigger away !! 70Ml !!
will plug in tomorrow and see what it says !!
KK
ps fookin bint !!
Have a look at my settings too as there have been a lot of variations. Got the same colour as you as well.
OK !! here's mine :?
Blueflame single port can with baffle in
KnN filter
airbox mod
KK
ps i set me LTFT to 4.6 but it changes itself :? EDIT, redone it as i think i forgot to save it :oops:
pps read all this stuff again and again and now me brain hurts !!
Next is to carry out the map mods to take the co sensor out of the equation at low revs to remove the surging at low revs and filtering etc. Looks like your idle is quite smooth already.
Well done the bug has bitten!!
Quote from: "metalguru"Next is to carry out the map mods to take the co sensor out of the equation at low revs to remove the surging at low revs and filtering etc. Looks like your idle is quite smooth already.
Well done the bug has bitten!!
All i have done to the 10173 map is....
lowered the rev limiter a bit
lowered the temp for the fan to switch on
set the LTFT to 4.6
?? So it looks ok so far :? ??
KK
PS IFT/IACV/LTFT settings ?? i know where the LTFT setting in TuneECU is but where is the others ?? :?
OK i think i found it :)
Idle Fuel Trim = 0.0
Adjust Speed Control = -1
Long Term Fuel Trim = 4.6
i take it the Adjust Speed Control is IACV ?? yes/no ??
KK
Thats the one.
Read through this thread and all will be explained.
BTW thanks for the hints for pictures.
:thumbsup
KK
ps it just gets a bit :? when they get called by different names :?
pps its weird how you got a 2001 Adventurer, then an orange Tigger :shock:
thats what i traded in for me orange Tigger :wink:
Wow that is some sort of coincidence, The Adventurer is so clean and getting a bit rare, that I originally bought an old Steamer (brilliant bike) so it wouldn't get ridden and ruined in the winter, things kind of progressed a bit quickly but I still have the Adventurer and now only take it out in the dry. The 955 Tigger I have now is ridden every day no matter what (well exept solid ice, live on a hill)! The same thing happened with the Z aswell.
The Tigger is Lucifer orange aswell......
Quote ( The Adventurer is so clean and getting a bit rare ) check me www, i've added a couple O pics :wink:
KK
here is my F1 screen and trim settings (thanks bixer bob). Yes I have cleared fault code. It does run richer than Mr Triumph would intend but still returns 45/6 MPG
Tune
OK you ECUguru's !! went to do the, IFT to zero, LTFT to leanest it will run....
and found me bike is messin about with the settings itself ??
IFT 0.0 / 0.0
LTFT 4.6 / now 4.2
IACV -1 / now -5
:?
KK
Have you set the warm up map to zero? Rest of it is fine as it has knocked out the CO sensor, that is the usual culprit for the values changing, could try going up in value a lot on the IFT, I am running about +30, it is a very fine adjustment so you won't do any harm even up to +99! Have a read on page 1 about setting the IACV as these can be very frustrating to get right and can also contribute to your variations.
UPDATE ON PAGE 1 IN VIOLET
Been playing again this week to cure some little niggles in my map. Although it is a TOR (10173) for the later 955 it still has some bad points like uneven idle, weak mixture through the range, Co sensor at idle.
Here are my latest settings which give smooth idle, good pick up and town riding with out any on-off syndrom, good mpg at cruise, hit 6k and it pulls the front wheel up in first 3 gears, loads of mid range power, lots more acceleration from cruise without dropping gears, running 19t front.
Noticed faster more powerful acceleration when opening up at 100MPH in top.
Fuel consumption at steady 90MPH = 48MPG (UK).
Average over 1 week of varied speed and roads = 53.4MPG (UK).
Knock out Co sensor at lower end of A/F1 map but leave working at midrange to give economic cruise. (Explained on page 1).
INJ PULSE= 1.956 1.954 1.962
Engine Load Idle = 22%
IDLE FUEL TRIM = 19.5
SPEED CONTROL = -18
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM = 4.5
WARM UP -10=0.25 -4=0.25 4=0.20 14=0.20 24=0.15 34=0.10 44=0.05 54->130=0
TABLE F Throttle position 0->13 and RPM 0->10500 = +5%
A/F2 = 500->6000rpm=13.00 7000->10000rpm=12.50
IDLE=-10->-4=1600 4=1550 14->44=1500 54=1250 64=1200 74->130=1200
This may not work on your bike as well as it works on mine as Tiggers can be individuals too.
So have you just set a/f to be 13.0 across the board below 6,000 rpm?
That would be the A/F 2 map only. As opposed to A/F1.
Can't figure out how to get screen shot of A/F 1 so took a picture, hopefully some one will pop in to put me right!
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/AF1001.jpg)
Quote from: "metalguru"That would be the A/F 2 map only. As opposed to A/F1.
Ah, missed that. But isn't that standard for A/F2?
It is quite close but after trying some modded ones which were good but MPG was 29 @ 90MPH! Now av45-48. Mine seems to run ok with this although there are small changes to improve lower end and knock out Co sensor but keep economy for cruise.
Quote from: "metalguru"It is quite close but after trying some modded ones which were good but MPG was 29 @ 90MPH! Now av45-48. Mine seems to run ok with this although there are small changes to improve lower end and knock out Co sensor but keep economy for cruise.
CTL + Print screen will get you the screen shot
I notice that yours runs leaner above 3K revs is it still a bit snachy around this rpm?
CP.
Thanks for the hint for print screen.
Tha removal of the snatchiness is down to the 'F' table alterations, LTFT, and chain tension. Trouble is with fuel maps is trying to keep a happy medium between economy and power, I was resonably happy with the power delivery and not happy with the overall delivery. After hours of reading dyno graphs and studying other tuners findings with a bit of my own knowledge as an engineer I came to the conclusion that the TOR map is ok for my riding style but was obviously stifled for emmissions. Using this theory and lots of small adjustments (no dyno) the economy for cruise is still retained but when needed uneconomic delivery can be accessed. (More than 50% throttle) To get an idea I used my brother as control and a certain piece of road for real time testing and timing, when I first started dabbling he could keep up and pass, but just recently he can just keep up but not pass. (CBR1000). Thought that was enough on the go map as any more tends to lift the front wheel all the time, found that the hard way!
There are still some holes in that map that need sorting but you can see where I intend to be, still work in progress and real time testing on my usual commute.
Still can't get the hang of making my P.C. do as I want it to as cannot figure out after ctrl + prtscn where it goes and how to upload to photobucket, so relied on the tried and trusted take a picture of the screen! You can guess I am not a PC geek!!! Just an engineer.
Over the past few weeks have been playing with the 'F' map and have come up with some favourable results. The changes are not as extreme as the sportier tunes for other models but enhance the running characteristics of the Tigger.
With these alterations came a smoother running for town and traffic with even less of the on/off throttle, feels more like carbs now. There seem to be a lot less in the way of vibes which were not prominant before, but still less, throttle response is smoother as is take off from standstill. Power has stayed the same just more rideable and smoother. Did not see much point altering the rest of the map as these areas seem fine for road work. Fuel consumption has not been affected and has stayed the same in all aspects of riding.
Anyone wishing to try these changes must have a reasonable knowledge of TuneEcu and its workings.
The differences are based on the off road 10173 map and the % changes are shown by the white dots in the squares. Each vertical column can be highlighted and %increased.
PLEASE NOTE IACV, IFT and LTFT will change and will have to be reset but on my Tiger it was only the IFT and IACV that had any significant change.
PLEASE NOTE These changes aggreed with my Tigger and should only be attempted by competant users of TuneECU and may not agree with your Tiger as tiggers are individuals too.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/AF1map001.jpg)[/img]
After you press PRTSC, click on Start /Programs / Accessories and open Paint.
Click on the Edit dropdown and click Paste, you screen dump will miraculously appear. You can cut just the bit you want from the entire dump first or you can just save it to your desktop but first give it a name and change the suffix from .bmp to .jpg as it makes a smaller file.
If you want to trim it, first click on the box shape in the top right of the tools pallet. Then put your cursor on the top left point that you want to cut. Press the left mouse button and while keeeping it pressed move right and left until the box covers the bit you want. Release the mouse button. Click on Edit / Cut and it will disappear. Click File / New (say no to saving the original image) and when the new page appears click Edit / Paste and there it is. You can make it bigger by clicking on the corner and dragging it if you wish, then save as above.
Close Paint and go to your desktop. Click on the saved .jpg and it'll open in photoviewer or whatever your default is. If you're happy with it, uplod to 'Bucket.
Thank you for your help BB most useful, may get the hang of these pc's soon!!
:thumbsup
Just completed a 750 mile wander and the best MPG(UK) = 58.
The worst was 50. Not being one to stick to speed limits was quite good!
All aspects of riding as well as green laneing, motorway, A and B roads.
Tigger performed amazingly with no on-off throttle, easy round town, no snatching, no surging, smooth power delivery at all revs with copious amounts of front wheel lifting power. Lost the little tickle in the footrests at 6K revs.
Put the baffle but not the db killer back in and is smoother lower in the rev range.
Seems smoother too since doing the R/R rewire, but that could be just the misused brain cell!!
To go with the 2 screen shots AF/1 and F here are the settings:-
IFT=20:3
Speed Control = -14
LTFT= 4:6
IDLE
-10=1650 -4=1600 4=1550 14=1500 24=1450 34=1390 44=1330 54=1250 64-130=1225
Warm Up
-10=0:25 -4=0:25 4=0:20 14=0:20 24=0:15 34=0:10 44=0:05 54-130=0
AF/2=500-6000RPM=13:00 7000-10000RPM=12:50
Rev Limit = 9500
Fan Cut In =96
Injector Flow =285:6
This has worked very well on my bike but may be different on yours as Tiggers are individuals too.
Has been nealy a year since I updated this and have found the settings on the F map have eliminated the surging, along with the settings on the AF/1 map has and all round improvement. The comparison is the Triumph off road map 10173 although will work in wire spoke girlies.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/latestmap.jpg)
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/latestaf1.jpg)
Don't know why they are so fuzzy though, perhaps someone can put me right as just an engineer!!
Of course I am happy to share with who ever wants to know but installing these settings requires a thorough understanding of the other values and TuneEcu.
What works well for my bike may not work well for yours.
MGs maps reposted with a bit less fuzz......
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c273/BixxerBob/FTable.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c273/BixxerBob/AF1.jpg)
Seems to be something to do with the colours...