thought I'd 'just' clean up the front brakes, and fit the 'new' wheel this morning... all was going fine (well as 'fine' as anything goes on this thing!) till I tightened up the l/h caliper mounts, and then discovered the wheel was locked up :?
closer examination of the new bolts explained why...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5591803621_51a8c3daa1_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22730494@N06/5591803621/)
P1010951 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22730494@N06/5591803621/) by GUZZINEIL (http://www.flickr.com/people/22730494@N06/), on Flickr
original bolt on the left, new one from Triumph on the right... its 'only' a couple of threads longer, but too long... strangely the r/h side was OK.. ?
Good to see a nice wodge of the ole copperslip on the fasteners :D
this goes on everything with a thread on my bikes :wink:
i had the same thing when i put the stainless bolts in mine. one side was about 2 or 3 threads too long. its a funny size bolt. summink like 42mm long
should be 47mm according to the parts list, not measured them but I guess they've 'upgraded' to a more standard length.. :roll: yes odd that its only a problem on the lefthandside - so the scabby old ones are back in for now, that'll teach me to try tarting the thing up!!! :roll:
Quote from: "NeilD"so the scabby old ones are back in for now, that'll teach me to try tarting the thing up!!! :roll:
no, no, no neil. you should be thinkin. "oh yes, even if you resist i will tart you up :P "
it lives!! :)
slotted the pipes with a hacksaw, and they now tighten up (thanks GavD :) ), got it running off of a remote bottle.. took a while to start and seems to have a stumble ablout 3000 rpm - hope thats old fuel and not the pipes.. have both baffles in and it has a nice throaty sound without being too loud - I quite like being stealthy round the back roads :)
suprised how well the tank fitted, considering its not the original..
had a walk round with a spanner and checked everything is tight, so tomorrow I'll put some petrol in the tank and see how it runs. someone had already mutilated the carb drain screws so I've now run it till the floatbowls are empty.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5596130038_4be337a57e_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22730494@N06/5596130038/)
P1010956 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22730494@N06/5596130038/) by GUZZINEIL (http://www.flickr.com/people/22730494@N06/), on Flickr
Neil,
I had quite a bad flutter around 3000-4000 when I fitted the Venoms. Looked into the jetting, and Mustang posts suggest my Keihins would have #40 pilot jets as standard and that they'd be ok. Opened her up and she had #38's in so ordered some #40's and she runs alot better. Still got a bit of a flutter which gets less as she warms up, but I do still notice it a bit.
Fully legal now, gonna take her for a long run on Sunday if my new oil pressure switch turns up in time.
Quote from: "GavD"Neil,
I had quite a bad flutter around 3000-4000 when I fitted the Venoms. Looked into the jetting, and Mustang posts suggest my Keihins would have #40 pilot jets as standard and that they'd be ok. Opened her up and she had #38's in so ordered some #40's and she runs alot better. Still got a bit of a flutter which gets less as she warms up, but I do still notice it a bit.
Fully legal now, gonna take her for a long run on Sunday if my new oil pressure switch turns up in time.
iff'n you have Keihins put a 8mm diameter x 1 mm thick ,flat washer under the needles , so as to shim them up , same as if you would move the needle clip on a mikuni , and stick some 105 main jets in her and then take it for a ride and see if you can get the silly grin off your face .
should get rid of the mid range stumble for you nicely ..did on mine .
I was (and still am!) hoping that I wasnt going to have to mess around with the carbs.. :? mikunis on this is..
nevermind we'll see what its like once back on the road..
Forgot to say that I'd put 105 mains in at the same time, I didn't do the shim up though. Need to get hold of some washers and do that next time i'm in there.
well, got to ride it today :)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5222/5597743349_bc5ae97867_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22730494@N06/5597743349/)
P1010962 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22730494@N06/5597743349/) by GUZZINEIL (http://www.flickr.com/people/22730494@N06/), on Flickr
the good news is that the fluffiness seems to have gone, now its had a dose of fresh fuel through it.. happy with the way the exhaust sounds 8)
everythign seems to work, although need to check the tyre pressures - I've gone with Meztlers recommendations but seem a little high for the front (36/42 psi)
But, seems to be another issue....
left house with about a gallon of fuel in the bike, running fine for a couple of miles and it started missfiring, losing power and finally just stopped.. got it going and heading back in the opersite diection. Same thing happened (after about 4 miles!).. got it going eventually and it seemed fine, so I headed off to the petrol station to top up (didnt fill up in case I had to push it!! )
after that it ran fine for about 40 miles, pulled well, a couple of high speed runs and some slow stuff... then just as I got near home I slowed down to pull over and take some pictures and it did the same thing again. Opened tank cap, there was no rush of air, but it started and I managed to get it home but barely running..
back home I opened the tank cap, and this time there was a definate 'hiss', it started straight up and was fine for a quick trip around the block..
so - if its the tank vent, is this nornmally and intermitent fault? something in the vent tube moving around?? I'm not convinced it is that, as when the bike was parked up earlier it was doing the 'whale song' thing, which i understood ment the vent was working..
alternatively I wondered about ignition pick-up fault.. I know these play up when hot, how long do they take to cool down and work again? and again, do they play up inttermittently?
generally the ignition p/u coil will fail when hot and after 15 minutes or so will start up ok then repeat as engine temp comes up . when she dies it usually goes all at once and if you notice the tach will drop to zero even if you are in gear rolling when it dies .
ignition pick up usually has no bad running spells it just plain up and dies .
coils on the other hand can behave alot like you are describing . misfires poor running loss of power due to 1 or more cylinders not firing .
To confirm the tank vent just open the cap and ride it with the cap open , if she never goes into poor running conditions you have found your problem .
also those pesky filters on the main and reserve pipes on the petcock like to suck shut and it wont get the fuel it requires .
thas one purdy lookin tiger you got there neil :D now if i can just reach in that photo and grab that lil copper pipe on the carb ill be hppy :lol:
Quote from: "rybes"now if i can just reach in that photo and grab that lil copper pipe on the carb ill be hppy :lol:
I thought of you when I was looking at the mangled/siezed carb drain plugs, and then decided to leave them alone!!! :D
Mustang - petcock should be ok as I swapped it over from my old tank today so had a check of the filters..
I did run it for a while with cap open and it was ok, but equally it was ok with the cap closed for 40-50 miles..
however I noticed when I had the tank off over the winter that they appear to be original coils :shock: so had pencilled in budgeting to replace them...
Had to replace a set on my T/Bird Sport, although the fault on that wasnt quite as extreme, it just missed and ran poorly at low revs...
Does the clock work? :lol:
Quote from: "rf9rider"Does the clock work? :lol:
yes, thanks! 8)
Hi Neil, you seem to have made a very nice job of the bike. I've spoken to the guys that did your paint, and I think I'm going to take them a couple of sets to do. Have your wheels simply been cleaned, or rebuilt?.
Rob
good looking bike - love the blue. makes me think about putting my stock fender back on :)
Quote from: "R0B". Have your wheels simply been cleaned, or rebuilt?.
hi Rob.. no they're a pair of Girly Behr wheels I picked up off of ebay.. had to wait a while for a decent front, but the rears seem to come up reasonably regularly.. I originally looked at getting new rims and spokes, but by the time I'd priced up all the bits plus labour, powdercoating hubs and anodising the rims (they come polished as standard, I wanted gold or black), it was going to be around £600 :shock: these pair of wheels were about £180, I took them to the wheelbuilder down the road and he checked them over and tightened the spokes etc.. he said the front had a couple of 'flats' on it but balances up ok and cant feel it on the road..
the fibreglass airbox covers fitted a treat too.. :D
well.. took the bike out on Sunday... ran it for about 10-5 miles with the low fuel light on, no probs.. filled up with fuel (didnt brim it, prob 3/4 full), did another 20-30 miles, again no probs.. left parked outside pub for a hour or so, started and ran fine, after about 5 miles it started stuttering pulled in clutch and it died.. restarted almost immeaditely and fine thereafter for the 10-15 miles home..
today I've pulled the tank off.. first off checked the vent at the bottom of the tank was clear (although dont believe that affects the breathing).
then took the cap to pieces and checked all the airways and nothing amiss there, although the rubber seal at the bottom didnt seem to fit the new tank as well as the old one, so have given that a trim ...
took out the petcock, the filters were clear and inside the tap all ok...
the only thing that I did find was a strip of paper or maybe a leaf laying at the bottom of the tank next to the petcock... I was wondering if this has been floating around the tank and getting sucked onto the inlet pipe as the fuel is flowing, then when it cuts out floating off again.. ?? dunno, but have hosed the tank out, nothing much else came out. will leave the tank to fully dry out overnight and chuck it back together tomorrow.
:roll:
hope ya get it sorted mate. things like that are bloody annoyin :x could it be a fuel pipe collapsin somehow under vacum ?
first ride today after cleanig the tank out... started and idled perfectly, set off and about 4 miles down the road it started running rough and died.. :x opened cap, no big gulp of air.. after a minute or 2 it started up but ran on only 1 or 2 cylinders as I headed back towards home.. by the time I got home it was running fine again.. so I carried on and did about 90 miles, fast stuff, slow stuff and half hour stop for ice cream and it didnt miss a beat. :icon_scratch
..now todays episode was similar to the last time in that it happened after a start from cold, died after a couple of miles then ran fine..
I'm pretty much discounting the venting problem theory, think I was going down that path as the tank was the only thing that had been changed over the winter.. I think I have sparkplugs in stock so will chuck a new set in if so... other than that not sure what to do, wait for whatever it is to get worse and reveal itself?? :roll:
Had a similar problem on my steamer, although seems unlikely in the warmer season, carb iceing!!
Way I cured mine was a bend from an old 4-1 cut to just sit above link pipe and enter the left hand air intake and tied to the frame with a cable tie but this was when I was riding in minus temps but might be worth a try and doesn't cost anything but a bit of time.
By the way NICE looking bike, still regret getting rid of mine.
I'm getting really, really, really tired of taking the bodywork off and putting it back on again.. in fact I'm getting really really really really tired of the bike.. :(
pulled out the old plugs today, about 10000 miles old, colours are ok, gaps and center electrodes ok, some deposits on 2 of them on the outside of the
earth electrode.. changed them anyway
checked conections at both ends of the plug leads, and at the coil.. all fine..
tank venting fine - full-on whale-song as its sits outside in the sunshine
put it all back together, and exactly the same thing happened again - starts and runs fine for about 5 miles, starts missfiring and dies. starts after 3 or 4 mins, ride back home missfiring all the way... today I couldnt be arsed to see if it clears itself as it has in the past, but after stopping and pushing it round to the back of the house it starts and ticks over and revs ok... I actually wish the thing would just not start or something, at least with a problem like that you can have a go at tracing the fault..
sadly due to family stuff going on at the moment I'm just about run out of time and energy to spend on it, so it'll either be pushed into a corner and put under a sheet, or alternatively it may get put on to ebay.. :cry:
it's either coils .....or the pilot circuit is dirty in the carbs . My money is on the coils
neil mate, same thing kinda happened to me today. i know the prob. the carbs are icin up. go try some super unleaded and see if that cures it. i gotta get octane booster. highest over here is 95 :cry: aparantly they phased out 98 a few years ago :roll:
Hi Neil, you weren't wrong on the new caliper bolts. I ordered some and they're likewise too long. I've spoken to Lilleys who are going to flag it up to Triumph............could be nasty if you didn't realise so thanks for the heads up.
Rob
Your problem seem to be identical to mine, as discussed here:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9412 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9412)
I am away for a few weeks but when I get back in the beginning of May, I´ll try replacing the coils, one by one. They are highest on the culprit suspicion list.
The strange thing is that the stumble and dying happened 1,5 year ago as well. It was intermittant and went away more og less when I replaced plugs and old plug wires. I say more or less because I have had hints of stumbling afterwards as well, until this spring when after a major engine job it came back for full.
It starts like a rocket when cold and runs fine until thoroughly warm, say 10 minutes, then starts to stumble and I have to gas it to keep it from dying, which it eventually does in the end anyway. It doesn´t smoke and sometimes it may make loud bangs like a gun. After cooling down for an hour or so it starts again and repeats the procedure, only with a shorter interval cause it heats up quicker.
The local Triumph mech says coils are likely. They can be fine when cold (mine are and resistance are on spec) but when warm the circuit may break.
So I agree with Mustang and bet on the coils.