Hey All,
Inspired by one of the forum members I decided to start a separate thread...my mate (on a ktm 990) and I (on a 98 tiger) are riding from London to Sydney in or around October this year.
To achieve this I want to mod my tiger to make sure I can sustain the journey so basically, I want to make it lighter change the wheel setup and possibly other bits and pieces...the ideas I have so far are:
- 21inch front wheel
- removing original cans and replacing by lighter versions (shaving off around 15kg I believe)
- improved guards/bars, protection etc
- 12v charging
- improved lighting
- possibly modding the rear sub frame (though i like the way it is)...
- possibly suspension uprate...
As such I would like to ask if there are any other things to be considered/done and also any helpfull hints on the above as I'm not sure how to do it at the moment (thought will obviously research)...
I shall post my progres along with photos on here so look out for the first mod (not sure which yet) soon :)
Well Im no expert here so Mustang will be jumping in soon I bet. What I have done is just make sure everything is well maintained. Good tires are a must.
But what I've found is my 98 just runs in the dirt really well the way it is. It is a handful which you need to get used too but is a very do able as a dual sport.
You don't mention if you already have one, but center stand. Also again if not done fix/upgrade the known weak points, coils, crank sensor (+spare).
Maybe consider some things to make maintenance on the road easier... in line fuel filter in an easy accessible place, pre-filter on the air box again that is easy to remove and clean to avoid clogging the main filter in dusty areas.
I like the fre-filter idea for the airbox. This is a mayor concern when travelling on dusty roads. In South America, I used a K/N-filter but not anymore - now I stick the the Triumph filter. It had the strange ability to suddenly stop letting air through, and it took a long time to realize that the semi dirty air filter was the reason the bike didn´t run properly. It still seems strange, but three times during our trip the same thing happened and cleaning the air filter solved it.
You can also turn the intake snorkel over, maybe cut it a little to be able to turn it, to get it out of the direct air/dust/dirt stream from the rear wheel. I heard of someone who made a hole through the side panel and turned the snorkel to point almost vertical, accessing the outside air. Maybe make a hat on it to avoid dropping things inside.
I would be hesitant to replace the rear frame for a long trip like yours. The original frame is solid as rock, after it was reinforced in 96-97 (the earlier frames were weak), and you will carry a lot. My KTM rear frame is definately weaker in that respect, made of light weight aluminum as it is.
If you add engine protection and a centre stand, you will be adding a lot of weight. I didnt have a centre stand, and still don´t, but carried instead a one arm jack for puncture repair/tire changes. That jack could be a simple rod of sorts, with the ability to be locked tight to the swing arm or below the engine, so that either the front or the rear wheel is in the air supported by the other wheel, the rod and the sidestand. I´d love to have a light weight, well working centre stand though, but the original is wide and low, in addition to heavy, and didn´t suit me.
I travelled with engine protectors but wouldn´t do it again. As mentioned they add weight (The Thunderbike bars add a lot), and I´m not convinced of their abilities to protect. In case you go down the guards will transfer all the strain to the points where it´s fastened to the engine. I have gone done with and without protectors (don´t ask) and in my opinion the bike distributes the impact very good by itself. If you add front side panniers they will take some of the impact too.
For weight distribution, don´t go with the largest possible boxes. If it was me riding solo, I would go for a set of cheap - but solid - pelican boxes, front side panniers and a nice and small tank bag. Riding solo you can also use the pillion seat for luggage - point is to get a balanced weight distribution. If you know you are going to hit difficult gravel or dirt, you can wear a back pack to take some weight of the bike.
Replacing the original exhaustwith a 3-1 is highly recommended. It reduces the weight about 9-10 kg, and since most of the weight of the original exhaust sits high up in the mufflers, you will have an additional benefit in a lower centre of gravity.
But remember that the biggest impact you´ll make on weight reduction is in the luggage. We were two people on the bike and carried about 60 kg of luggage. Horrible, if you ask me now. So kill your darlings and think versatility all the way. Can the liner of your jacked be used seperately on a bar visit? If not, drop it and bring a sweather instead. The regular pants should fit under the riding gear so you don´t have to carry an extra layer. Etc etc.
If you want to read about my over farkling and preparations ten years ago, read here:
http://rocinantestravels.com/pan-am/pre ... grades.htm (http://rocinantestravels.com/pan-am/preps/rocinante-upgrades.htm)
Most of it is farkling, so be warned, a lot of it unnecessary too, but fun when I did it.
More later
Dag
Lights: I highly recommend these which I have now:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/5224/ (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/5224/)
Very powerfull, and increases your fingerprint a lot for oncoming traffic. I have connected them to the high beam through a relay and also kept the Denali switch on the handlebar. Ideally I would have three options not two; on all the time, on with the high beam only, and off. Someone who knows how to set that up?
Also, connect the two main lights low beams, so that both lights are on when dimmed down.
The original shock blew in Costa Rica and was replaced with an Øhlins which is very nice and still is in perfect shape. I think they stopped making them though, but other people here know more about it (Mustang?:)).
Dag
Hey all thats some fantastic information....I already have a center stand but thanks to your suggestions here is my list now:
- 21 inch front wheel
- inline fuel filter
- pre air filter and maybe a snorkle
- 3 into 1 exhaust
- lights (additional and setup the originals)
- panniers..I already built a set of panniers for the givi racks I have, they are from 40mm ammunition storage boxes...a bit on the heavy side so considering something else...
- battery volt meter and 12v marine plug
- shocks raised...and springs repclaed for stiffer ones....i like the idea of raising them as I'm quite tall at 6'6
- luggage...few things to sort out there
The list is growing :)
BTW Dag, what an excellent write up!!!
Quote from: "Rocinante"Ideally I would have three options not two; on all the time, on with the high beam only, and off. Someone who knows how to set that up?
I have a 3 way setup. You need a diode from the main beam line to the +v of the relay that turns on the accessory lights.
When I rewired my bike, I used a motogadget M-Unit (http://www.motogadget.com/en/m_unit.html) to replace the standard fuse box, relays and flasher unit. One of the benefits of this unit is that the dipped lights are switched on automatically after the starter has been pressed (once the bike has been started and you need to restart it, the unit automatically turns the lights off prior to cranking). Consequently, the light switch on the right hand side was no longer needed, so I used this to control the accessory lights (off, on with full beam and, on).
Keep em coming Tomski. It´s nice to dive into this matter again.
Coolhand, thanks. That´s what I thought. I guess I can find a a diode at a car electric shop.
You've already have gotten some good advice. A few notes from Harre:
- Heated grips.
- All tools necessary for wheel removal.
- To make simple pre-filters: drop a foam filter in each snorkel. Move cap to the unused side when the first one is dirty.
- Bring spare coils and a P/U coil.
- Take a look at the Trax alu panners, works well with the Givi rack with an adapterplate.
- I have the SW-motech center stand and it works well. Highly recommended.
- Maybe a higher screen. Powerbronze seems popular, I have a modified MRA, that works really well (tilted 10 cm forwards + slight bend of the top 5 cm), but not as stylish as the Powerbronze (or Secdem-Bagster).
Pics. of my red Steamer with Trax and MRA sceeen here: http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... &start=160 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,22&start=160)
Looking forward to seeing the bike all tooled up and ready to go. Post some pictures!
Also very much looking forward to seeing the proposed route, post it up on the 'up and coming' section.
Oh and good luck. 8)
Some fantastic advice here...I will definitely post pictures of build progress and the final result when done :)
I've already got a few mods which include the scott oiler, a very tall screen (which is great for me height), center stand and givi top and panniers (also have the ammo boxes which I will use I think instead of panniers but also will review the trax alu panniers)
At the moment the bike has a 180 rear and a 120 front wheel (modded by previous owner) so its very sporty/roady and I need to change that into a 21 front and a normal 140/150 rear...
FYI our proposed route is as follows:
London - Turkey - Iran - Pakistan - India - Nepal - Bangladesh then ship over to Thailand - Cambodia - Laos - Malaysia - Indonesia and either straight to Australia or East Timor and to Australia
We are planning to do this in under 90 days so hopefully that will be sufficient but we shall see enroute...
i got a mate who rode fromlondon to mongolia on a cbr1000 ya gunna have fun mate
(http://www.disturbingthepeace.co.uk/gallery/files/1/1/0/7/choose_a_direction_and_ride_in_mongolia_thumb.jpg) (http://www.disturbingthepeace.co.uk/gallery/showimage.php?i=5143&c=22)
I think You be better also looking at improving fuel mileage ??
There a few threads about this Tank range is all important and the ability to change filter or carry out maintenance is a must
I can do a clutch in a R1150GS at the roadside or a final drive bearing or I can disable a cylinder to allow me to limp somewhere
Read about getting the carbs outta a "Steamer" before you go anywhere!
Quote from: "Jaythro"Read about getting the carbs outta a "Steamer" before you go anywhere!
This is a must. Train to avoid disturbing the rubber on the mid cylinder when mouting the carbs again. This can be no fun at all along a windy road. But with exercise in advance, you´re much better off.
Do some tyre changes back home as well, using the tools you intend to carry, if it´s new to you. And speaking of tools for puncture repair, this is what I´d bring:
Two tyre irons
One small air pump
Puncture repair kit
I´d drop the bottled repair stuff, but have little experience with it. It seems sensible to use it if you know you are getting a new inner tube in the next town, but otherwise just fix the hole roadside.
Quote from: "Rocinante"Quote from: "Jaythro"Read about getting the carbs outta a "Steamer" before you go anywhere!
This is a must. Train to avoid disturbing the rubber on the mid cylinder when mouting the carbs again. This can be no fun at all along a windy road. But with exercise in advance, you´re much better off.
Do some tyre changes back home as well, using the tools you intend to carry, if it´s new to you. And speaking of tools for puncture repair, this is what I´d bring:
Two tyre irons
One small air pump
Puncture repair kit
I´d drop the bottled repair stuff, but have little experience with it. It seems sensible to use it if you know you are getting a new inner tube in the next town, but otherwise just fix the hole roadside.
I know you've done this before... I've seen the pics and evidence... but when I got a flat in the rear I learnt you need a toolbox to get the back wheel of the tigger off.
2 19mm sockets
1 12mm socket
2 1/2 inch drivers
1 55 torx driver
2 12 mm hex drives
1 6mm hex drive
1 long nose pliers
1 brake caliper compressor or similar
then you need serious tyre levers to get 6 ply monsters off or a bead breaker
rubber patches
pump or O2 canisters
I'd sell my kids for a tubless solution
Or where did I go wrong? :oops:
Quote from: "BruKen"I'd sell my kids for a tubless solution
Or where did I go wrong? :oops:
I don't want your kids but............a lot of people have sealed their rims with silicone sealant around the spoke nipples and then covered the rim with the rim rubber and a few wraps of fiberglass or similar tape .
Most have had good results , with minimal to zero air leaks . YMMV
My toolkit is a cell phone and a master card ..... :ImaPoser
It's all part of the adventure :D :lol:
I'd give that a go but I have serious concerns you'll struggle to get the wheel balanced afterwards.
I wonder if there is anyway one could pinchand fit a beemer GS rim where the spokes are laced outside to fit a steamer hub? Anybody got a beemer lying spare I can pinch the rim off :twisted:
Both side intakes are open. The Australian made Uni-filter pods are not oiled and are intended to catch larger particles such as: bugs, seeds, grass etc etc.... Hopefully the K&N filter in the air-box will filter out fine grit and dust. The very slight restriction of the uni-filters helps with the low speed tractability whilst providing minimal restriction at high rpms. The jetting was changed to:
Mikuni Carb
mains 125, 122.5, 125
needles 2 notches from the bottom
Pilot jet 40 (stock)
Pilot screw 2.25 turns out
The fuel economy at high speed is probably not great, but in a nanny state like Australia with an enforced 100kmhr speed limit, this is not a problem.
With a 19 front sprocket the engine is turning only 3841rpms @ 100kmph according to: www.gearingcommander.com (http://www.gearingcommander.com)
TROPICALWALLAH
Quote from: "BruKen"Or where did I go wrong? :oops:
You didn´t. :roll:
I didn´t count in the tools to get the wheel off because that should be part of the travel tool kit. My suggestions was only for the work after the wheel was off.
One long tyre iron is nice to have, but the work is doable with a combination of technic and brute force. My rear wheel is actually lying on the floor in the garage at the moment, awaiting the new tube I just bought because of a puncture and then another due to careless use of tyre irons. It´s very easy to puncture the tube again when you mount the tyre, if the tube get between the iron and the rim. Just imagine the annoyance when after finishing everything and at the moment where the wheel is going back on the bike, you hear a low whistle and you know you´re back at scratch. :BangHead Been there too many times.
If you can get heavy duty tubes, then use that. I have it in the 21" front, but haven´t been able to find one for the rear.
just a thought. when i rebuilt my tiger last summer i replaced every nut and bolt with allen headed ones. i carry a set of allen keys and a 17 or 19 mm (cant remeber wich) in the bike with a flat head screw driver and a pair of pliers. this gives me the ability to almost pull the bike completley apart at the roadsie with out the need of lots of differnt tools to do it. just a set of allen keys and a spanner for sus linkage front wheel spindle and engine mountin bolts.
The concept is good but hex drives and cap head bolts ... and me... :oops:
I would look into sealing your wheels so you can run tubeless, makes flat repair so much easier. I just did this on my 98 and so far it is working great. It's always a real pain breaking a bead here in the comfort of the home garage I can't image what I would do along the side of the road/trail.
Quote from: "Rocinante"Quote from: "Jaythro"Read about getting the carbs outta a "Steamer" before you go anywhere!
I´d drop the bottled repair stuff, but have little experience with it. It seems sensible to use it if you know you are getting a new inner tube in the next town, but otherwise just fix the hole roadside.
Actually have changed/repaired a few tubes myself on enduro bikes but for a while now been using the tyre foam stuff...i know it says not meant to use on tubes but it worked so far 100% for me (well about 4 times)..with longest distance travelled about 300km and no drop in pressure at all....at the moment it seems my sports wheels (120 frnt and 180 rear) are tubeless so rims are sealed...though will need to find a replacement for bigger front (21) and thinner rear....
shame im so far away. if you was intersted i ddo you a straight swap. my wheels for your wheels. thatll give ya a 2001 tiger set of spoked wheels. but im in denmark, gutted !
Hey Rybes, what sort of wheels do you have? may be able to organise transport etc or a visit....by the way my wheels are sealed also....:)
i got these wheels mate
(http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af76/IM_Rybes/DSC00637.jpg)
although they have now been powder coated with chrome rims and poweder coated silver hubs and the spokes have been polished. from what you say, im guessin you have 3 spokes on your bike ?
hey sorry for the delay was away for a few days...so i got the spoked wheels with a 180 rear and a 120 front...believe to be sealed from the inside (as mentioned by previous owner) but will check them out properly...i'm guessing yours is a 140 rear and a 110 front?
guess again. ya right on the front but i got a 150 rear. not to worry bout the delay as long as ya had a good time away.
Heya Rybes, and once again, I had to take off abroad with work for a while and hten took some time out to go to the pyrenees on a different bike (DR Big)...as it happens my trip back home will need to wait till next year so now planning for start in July/Aug...the upshot is that i get to take off 6 months to do this at that time....anyhow just finishing my bike (the head gasket issue described in another post) and still aim to come via Denmark to visit a mate near Oslo but that will probably wait till end of September or so...so if yer wheels will still be about we could do a deal, would probably order some rubber to arrive at yours so that could fit them straight on....obviously if that would be possible :)
right, back on track anyhow with only a couple of months of delay lol...
Quote from: "tropicalwallah"Both side intakes are open. The Australian made Uni-filter pods are not oiled and are intended to catch larger particles such as: bugs, seeds, grass etc etc.... Hopefully the K&N filter in the air-box will filter out fine grit and dust. The very slight restriction of the uni-filters helps with the low speed tractability whilst providing minimal restriction at high rpms. The jetting was changed to:
Mikuni Carb
mains 125, 122.5, 125
needles 2 notches from the bottom
Pilot jet 40 (stock)
Pilot screw 2.25 turns out
The fuel economy at high speed is probably not great, but in a nanny state like Australia with an enforced 100kmhr speed limit, this is not a problem.
With a 19 front sprocket the engine is turning only 3841rpms @ 100kmph according to: www.gearingcommander.com (http://www.gearingcommander.com)
TROPICALWALLAH
hey, what did you use to seal those side intake boxes? Mine are both split.
Also, is there some part number for some pre-filters?
I thought the cap on the right side should be left on?
Quote from: "wakdady"hey, what did you use to seal those side intake boxes? Mine are both split.
Also, is there some part number for some pre-filters?
I thought the cap on the right side should be left on?
look what his jetting is at it needs the cap open
To seal the airbox and create cups to hold the filter pods I used:
"Sikaflex®-227 is a one-component poly--urethane sealant designed for car body construction, curing on exposure to atmospheric moisture to form a durable elastomer".
The filter pods are by an Australian company called Uni-Filter. My filters
are run without filter oil, and are only intended to catch large particulates.
Looking at the jetting i originally posted, the needle position is actually 2 from
the top, not 2 from the bottom.
If you want good fuel economy keeping everything stock would be best!
I'd sell my kids for a tubless solution
Or where did I go wrong? :oops:[/quote]
I don't want your kids but............a lot of people have sealed their rims with silicone sealant around the spoke nipples and then covered the rim with the rim rubber and a few wraps of fiberglass or similar tape .
Most have had good results , with minimal to zero air leaks . YMMV
My toolkit is a cell phone and a master card ..... :ImaPoser
I used Industrial GOOP after the Silicone seal was found to be shredded at the next rear tire change. Have run with no adjustments nigh on 10 years now. Loses about 1~2 lbs /month. The valve hole needs to be drilled out a bit to fit an automotive metal valve. My 19" front rim is also tubeless.
My 21" front is not a tubeless rim, so still has a standard tube setup. If using a 21' front, you will need to raise the forks in the triple tree (losing some fork travel in the process), or add some padding under the sidestand. The bike will lean over too much without it, maybe easier to fall over if loaded up high. I used a piece of 1.5" Lexan, large enough to make a decent footprint for soft ground. Mine is 2" wide by 4" long. Plywood or a hockey puck would also work. Mind telling us the reasoning behind getting a 21" wheel for this mixed road trip? Seems that it would be a lot cheaper to stay with the 19". A raised fender, extended brake lines & the above mentioned leaning are a huge change for anyone not using the bike continuously on rough gravel, mud, or sand roads. I have both systems, but prefer the 19" on good gravel & pavement, leaving the 21" for the really rough stuff.
Take a shop manual, or memorize it. Probably easier to take it. If you plan or are forced into any maintenance or repairs, you can't do without it. Mine has seen a lot of roadside reading in Mexico & the back country wilderness of Yukon & British Columbia. Write all the most used info on the first or last page, ie; how much oil, coolant, fork fluid, tire pressures, etc.
Make sure all consumable parts are brand new & road tested before going. Brake pads, fork, brake & clutch fluids, chain, sprockets, coolant, plugs, etc. Do your steering head bearing, swing arm bearing, & wheel bearing services. Make a complete check over of everything in the manual.
Loctite everything that could possibly shake loose.
Make up a tool kit to fit on the front of the engine guard, keeping that weight front & low. Mine is 2 pieces of 3" ABS plumbing pipe held on with hose clamps. Threaded cap on one end needs waterpump pliers to remove, more secure. It's a good tool to have also, but not inside the case. Has proven itself over 80,00km of mixed terrain since install. See photo. More photos of my setups at http://fishnbiker.smugmug.com/motorcycles/ (http://fishnbiker.smugmug.com/motorcycles/)
Have an advance arrangement made with your favourite dealer on how to have parts delivered quickly via courier. Make sure you know where to find the part numbers online or carry a CD / flash drive list.